A question for Dr.Cannondal(or anybody else who knows early 80's Cannondales)
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A question for Dr.Cannondal(or anybody else who knows early 80's Cannondales)
Craiglist find, 83 Cannondale ST that still has great paint and mostly original components. I am planning on upgrading this bike and using it as my daily commuter. I have already replaced brake pulls and calipers to tektro 539 and just purchased shimano tricolor cranks and BB(un-71) set as well as tricolor F&RD's. I know from the vintage cannondale site that the bb spacing is 68mm.
Question 1. assuming that the bb that comes with the cranks is 68mm and not 73mm, is there any other compatibility issues i should be aware of?
I am also planning on changing from 27' wheels with a 6sp freewheel to a 700c 7sp hub. I am pretty big 6'6'' 215lbs and the roads here in new orleans are notoriously bad so i was wondering if anybody had some suggestions for rims. I would prefer to purchase as set of wheels instead of "building" the wheel set myself. I feel like because of my size, the roads, and the need for reliability, it might be best to avoid used wheels but i am open to opinion on this as well.
I am having trouble finding a set of 126mm hubs on a 700c rim so i was thinking of going with the more popular 130mm hub.
Final question. In other threads i have read, according to Dr.C, using 130mm spaced hubs in a 126mm dropout isn't a big issue, you just "muscle them in there". Could you expand on your method for doing this a little bit? Is it as simple as inserting one side and then pulling the dropout our far enough to fit the other end in? Your help is much appreciated.
Question 1. assuming that the bb that comes with the cranks is 68mm and not 73mm, is there any other compatibility issues i should be aware of?
I am also planning on changing from 27' wheels with a 6sp freewheel to a 700c 7sp hub. I am pretty big 6'6'' 215lbs and the roads here in new orleans are notoriously bad so i was wondering if anybody had some suggestions for rims. I would prefer to purchase as set of wheels instead of "building" the wheel set myself. I feel like because of my size, the roads, and the need for reliability, it might be best to avoid used wheels but i am open to opinion on this as well.
I am having trouble finding a set of 126mm hubs on a 700c rim so i was thinking of going with the more popular 130mm hub.
Final question. In other threads i have read, according to Dr.C, using 130mm spaced hubs in a 126mm dropout isn't a big issue, you just "muscle them in there". Could you expand on your method for doing this a little bit? Is it as simple as inserting one side and then pulling the dropout our far enough to fit the other end in? Your help is much appreciated.
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Craiglist find, 83 Cannondale ST that still has great paint and mostly original components. I am planning on upgrading this bike and using it as my daily commuter. I have already replaced brake pulls and calipers to tektro 539 and just purchased shimano tricolor cranks and BB(un-71) set as well as tricolor F&RD's. I know from the vintage cannondale site that the bb spacing is 68mm.
Question 1. assuming that the bb that comes with the cranks is 68mm and not 73mm, is there any other compatibility issues i should be aware of?
I am also planning on changing from 27' wheels with a 6sp freewheel to a 700c 7sp hub. I am pretty big 6'6'' 215lbs and the roads here in new orleans are notoriously bad so i was wondering if anybody had some suggestions for rims. I would prefer to purchase as set of wheels instead of "building" the wheel set myself. I feel like because of my size, the roads, and the need for reliability, it might be best to avoid used wheels but i am open to opinion on this as well.
I am having trouble finding a set of 126mm hubs on a 700c rim so i was thinking of going with the more popular 130mm hub.
Final question. In other threads i have read, according to Dr.C, using 130mm spaced hubs in a 126mm dropout isn't a big issue, you just "muscle them in there". Could you expand on your method for doing this a little bit? Is it as simple as inserting one side and then pulling the dropout our far enough to fit the other end in? Your help is much appreciated.
Question 1. assuming that the bb that comes with the cranks is 68mm and not 73mm, is there any other compatibility issues i should be aware of?
I am also planning on changing from 27' wheels with a 6sp freewheel to a 700c 7sp hub. I am pretty big 6'6'' 215lbs and the roads here in new orleans are notoriously bad so i was wondering if anybody had some suggestions for rims. I would prefer to purchase as set of wheels instead of "building" the wheel set myself. I feel like because of my size, the roads, and the need for reliability, it might be best to avoid used wheels but i am open to opinion on this as well.
I am having trouble finding a set of 126mm hubs on a 700c rim so i was thinking of going with the more popular 130mm hub.
Final question. In other threads i have read, according to Dr.C, using 130mm spaced hubs in a 126mm dropout isn't a big issue, you just "muscle them in there". Could you expand on your method for doing this a little bit? Is it as simple as inserting one side and then pulling the dropout our far enough to fit the other end in? Your help is much appreciated.
2) Get as many spokes as you can.
3) Use your fingers to pull the dropouts out while you slide the wheel in.
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Have you checked with your local bike shops for a set of "take offs" with 32-36 spoke count?
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Sounds like you've done your research and bought a very solid collection of components. Only remaining compatibility issue is spindle length- did you get a 112-115 english thread BB? If so, you're good to go, anything that falls in that range will work just fine. With regard to wheels, agreed that more spokes is better for a larger rider and also looks period correct. You can certainly use a 130 OLD rear wheel with a 4.5mm spacer behind a 7 speed cassette, and inserting the rear wheel is as easy as sliding it in and using a little thumb pressure on the drop outs. Doesn't take much, and a big guy like you has plenty of hand strength. Try Velomine for a good deal on newly built wheels, probably best to give them a call as they may have onesies in stock that don't show up on their web site.
Or ask here on the WTB thread after you buy a subscription. We also expect to see pictures.
Or ask here on the WTB thread after you buy a subscription. We also expect to see pictures.
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Why did you buy the bike if you want to do all the upgrades? Why didn't you just buy something with 600 already one it?
I find the easiest way to put a 130 hub in a 126 frame is to 'sit' the drops on the axle and just grab the seat stays and pull the apart. I had a few of my steel frame coldest to 130ish when I tried to go to a 7spd cassette standard but you can't do that on a Cannondale. Some, including me, may argue this putting a 130 hub in a aluminum 126 frame is a bad idea as the dropouts will not be parallel to the hub locknuts.
I find the easiest way to put a 130 hub in a 126 frame is to 'sit' the drops on the axle and just grab the seat stays and pull the apart. I had a few of my steel frame coldest to 130ish when I tried to go to a 7spd cassette standard but you can't do that on a Cannondale. Some, including me, may argue this putting a 130 hub in a aluminum 126 frame is a bad idea as the dropouts will not be parallel to the hub locknuts.
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Sounds like you've done your research and bought a very solid collection of components. Only remaining compatibility issue is spindle length- did you get a 112-115 english thread BB? If so, you're good to go, anything that falls in that range will work just fine. With regard to wheels, agreed that more spokes is better for a larger rider and also looks period correct. You can certainly use a 130 OLD rear wheel with a 4.5mm spacer behind a 7 speed cassette, and inserting the rear wheel is as easy as sliding it in and using a little thumb pressure on the drop outs. Doesn't take much, and a big guy like you has plenty of hand strength. Try Velomine for a good deal on newly built wheels, probably best to give them a call as they may have onesies in stock that don't show up on their web site. Or ask here on the WTB thread after you buy a subscription. We also expect to see pictures.
As for the pictures i was going to upload a few but i guess they are too large to be uploaded. ill take some more when i get back from vacation in a few days. Thanks for the velomine tip as well.
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For me, i like building stuff, taking things apart and sometimes correctly putting them back together, as much as i like riding. I know its probably not the most $$$ efficient but i don't really mind if i put 6 or 700$ into a bike i could sell for 500$ if its something i am planning on riding for a long time.
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To eloborate on what Shoota said, the easiest way I know of is to align the axle below the dropouts, then facing the back of the bike, reach over the wheel for the dropout on the left (or right if you started on the left) and with both dropouts grasped between your arms pull apart with your hands. Quickly "pick up" the skewer with your index fingers and guide the wheel home.
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Regarding wheels from Velomine, I bought a set of 700c wheels with 126mm rear spacing for my wife's centurion, 32 spokes with Sun cr-18 rims which (I read/heard) are pretty strong. I also ride a cannondale (27" frame ST), great bikes for us big guys (I'm 6'-7" and trying to get back down under 250...). It had a 130mm rear wheel which wasn't as easy as I thought it should have been to install, especially in the dark with cold fingers after repairing a flat. Maybe I'm just a weak clydesdale, I don't know, but I bought a new rear wheel from Velomine with 126mm spacing, and very much prefer it on my commuter bike. I kept the 27" wheels on that one. Have fun with it.
Last edited by alfonsejr; 04-03-15 at 05:44 PM.
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I was waiting for the Cannondale specific questions ...
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