Head Badge Installation
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,948
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times
in
212 Posts
Head Badge Installation
I need to install a head badge. I usually go to McMaster-Carr and buy screws to fit the hole, but this time I would like to rivet the badge onto the head tube. Anyone have advice for tools & technique?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,755
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 124 Times
in
73 Posts
would drive screws work for you?
https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...0Screws%22%7C~
If not, you might try tubular rivets. Like used on some 70's bikes. The tricky part is the anvil. But a one inch bar of steel inside the head tube might suffice as long as it's rigid enough. I haven't done this, but intend to some day when I finally remove the badge from a Motobecane and paint. They're tubular rivets but I will use drive screws to replace the badge. Much simpler.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...0Screws%22%7C~
If not, you might try tubular rivets. Like used on some 70's bikes. The tricky part is the anvil. But a one inch bar of steel inside the head tube might suffice as long as it's rigid enough. I haven't done this, but intend to some day when I finally remove the badge from a Motobecane and paint. They're tubular rivets but I will use drive screws to replace the badge. Much simpler.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,385
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 204 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1286 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,437 Times
in
804 Posts
You can buy stainless steel rivits, not sure if that is the correct name, though. Sadly, my stuff is at home and I am abroad, at the moment.
Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,327
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
23 Posts
I've been calling them Screw-nails from the McMaster Carr page. Whatever they're called, they're the way to go. The only trick is selecting the right size for the hole - and not going any longer than you need (or you'll end up binding on the steerer).
__________________
- Auchen
- Auchen
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,948
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times
in
212 Posts
I've been calling them Screw-nails from the McMaster Carr page. Whatever they're called, they're the way to go. The only trick is selecting the right size for the hole - and not going any longer than you need (or you'll end up binding on the steerer).
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,415
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 442 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
17 Posts
You can buy stainless steel rivits, not sure if that is the correct name, though. Sadly, my stuff is at home and I am abroad, at the moment.
Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,755
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 124 Times
in
73 Posts
Only certain frogs. Others say croak, burrrupp, or peep.
A brass or copper rivet would be cool looking, Dweenk. And they're certainly available. But not nearly as easy to install as a drive screw. Would require a backing anvil with which to peen over the back side of the rivet inside the head tube. Worth a try though.
A brass or copper rivet would be cool looking, Dweenk. And they're certainly available. But not nearly as easy to install as a drive screw. Would require a backing anvil with which to peen over the back side of the rivet inside the head tube. Worth a try though.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,755
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 124 Times
in
73 Posts
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,385
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 204 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1286 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,437 Times
in
804 Posts
A rivit is the sound made by a frog.
Only certain frogs. Others say croak, burrrupp, or peep.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,755
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 124 Times
in
73 Posts
FWIW. Great site;
Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools
Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,415
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 442 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
17 Posts
I used 3/32"X.250 stainless pop rivets on my Raleigh Competition. They closely resemble the original brass ones, except for the color. They came from McMaster-Carr and I had to buy 100.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,948
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times
in
212 Posts
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.

#13
Senior Member
FWIW I made copper rivets for my headbadge when I reinstalled it on my Raleigh Professional. I measured the old brass rivets and found a piece of solid copper wire that was real close and fit the holes nicely. I think it was 12 awg wire but may have been 10 awg. You'll have to measure. I peened one end over on each piece (they must have been ~ 3/16" long) then inserted them from the inside. Set the head badge in place, inserted a steel rod into the HT as a backing mass then carefully peened over the outside end. It didn't take much light hammering. The first one was tricky but the next two were pretty simple. No interferance with the steerer tube and that badge has held nicely for the past 1000 miles. The badge is exceedingly light so I don't think it needs much to keep in place. The copper rivets look just fine - much better than the weird pop rivets that Raleigh used some years. The looked like frog's eyes.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,948
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times
in
212 Posts
FWIW I made copper rivets for my headbadge when I reinstalled it on my Raleigh Professional. I measured the old brass rivets and found a piece of solid copper wire that was real close and fit the holes nicely. I think it was 12 awg wire but may have been 10 awg. You'll have to measure. I peened one end over on each piece (they must have been ~ 3/16" long) then inserted them from the inside. Set the head badge in place, inserted a steel rod into the HT as a backing mass then carefully peened over the outside end. It didn't take much light hammering. The first one was tricky but the next two were pretty simple. No interferance with the steerer tube and that badge has held nicely for the past 1000 miles. The badge is exceedingly light so I don't think it needs much to keep in place. The copper rivets look just fine - much better than the weird pop rivets that Raleigh used some years. The looked like frog's eyes.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,948
Bikes: Lots of English 3-speeds, a couple of old road bikes, 3 mountain bikes, 1 hybrid, and a couple of mash-ups
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 874 Post(s)
Liked 312 Times
in
212 Posts
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.