Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Head Badge Installation

Old 04-25-15, 02:40 PM
  #1  
dweenk 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Head Badge Installation

I need to install a head badge. I usually go to McMaster-Carr and buy screws to fit the hole, but this time I would like to rivet the badge onto the head tube. Anyone have advice for tools & technique?
dweenk is offline  
Old 04-25-15, 03:42 PM
  #2  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,627
Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 495 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
would drive screws work for you?
https://www.fastenal.com/products/fa...0Screws%22%7C~

If not, you might try tubular rivets. Like used on some 70's bikes. The tricky part is the anvil. But a one inch bar of steel inside the head tube might suffice as long as it's rigid enough. I haven't done this, but intend to some day when I finally remove the badge from a Motobecane and paint. They're tubular rivets but I will use drive screws to replace the badge. Much simpler.
rootboy is offline  
Old 04-25-15, 03:44 PM
  #3  
randyjawa 
Senior Member
 
randyjawa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 9,151

Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, Rocky Mountain Cardiac

Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 599 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 36 Times in 33 Posts
You can buy stainless steel rivits, not sure if that is the correct name, though. Sadly, my stuff is at home and I am abroad, at the moment.

Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
__________________
Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"
randyjawa is offline  
Old 04-25-15, 03:59 PM
  #4  
auchencrow
Senior Member
 
auchencrow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,327
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've been calling them Screw-nails from the McMaster Carr page. Whatever they're called, they're the way to go. The only trick is selecting the right size for the hole - and not going any longer than you need (or you'll end up binding on the steerer).
__________________
- Auchen
auchencrow is offline  
Old 04-25-15, 04:27 PM
  #5  
dweenk 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by auchencrow View Post
I've been calling them Screw-nails from the McMaster Carr page. Whatever they're called, they're the way to go. The only trick is selecting the right size for the hole - and not going any longer than you need (or you'll end up binding on the steerer).
You may have nailed it Crow. I have a bunch of #2 screws from McM C that worked on most badges, but the Raleigh holes are larger (like #3 ). I wish I could put a brass or copper rivit in there though.
dweenk is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 08:15 AM
  #6  
Grand Bois
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,418
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
You can buy stainless steel rivits, not sure if that is the correct name, though. Sadly, my stuff is at home and I am abroad, at the moment.

Anyway, the rivit has an extremely aggressive thread and is called a Drive Screw. Start there and you just might find what you need.
A rivit is the sound made by a frog.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 08:33 AM
  #7  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,627
Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 495 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
A rivit is the sound made by a frog.
Only certain frogs. Others say croak, burrrupp, or peep.

A brass or copper rivet would be cool looking, Dweenk. And they're certainly available. But not nearly as easy to install as a drive screw. Would require a backing anvil with which to peen over the back side of the rivet inside the head tube. Worth a try though.
rootboy is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 08:39 AM
  #8  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,627
Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 495 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.
rootboy is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 08:58 AM
  #9  
randyjawa 
Senior Member
 
randyjawa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 9,151

Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, Rocky Mountain Cardiac

Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 599 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 36 Times in 33 Posts
A rivit is the sound made by a frog.
Only certain frogs. Others say croak, burrrupp, or peep.
True and true, however; when standing near the edge of the pond, they always say - "kneedeep, kneedeep"
__________________
Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"
randyjawa is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 09:02 AM
  #10  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,627
Mentioned: 75 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 495 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
FWIW. Great site;
Rivets by Jay-Cee | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools
rootboy is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 09:03 AM
  #11  
Grand Bois
Senior Member
 
Grand Bois's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,418
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I used 3/32"X.250 stainless pop rivets on my Raleigh Competition. They closely resemble the original brass ones, except for the color. They came from McMaster-Carr and I had to buy 100.
Grand Bois is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 11:55 AM
  #12  
dweenk 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.
I tried to use #2 pan head machine screws, but the holes were just a tad too large. A rivet the size of a #2 screw should work though. I need three to do the job and 1 or 2 extra for mistakes
dweenk is offline  
Old 04-26-15, 12:51 PM
  #13  
Prowler 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Near Pottstown, PA: 30 NW of Philadelphia
Posts: 1,286

Bikes: 2 Trek Mtn, Cannondale R600 road, 6 vintage road bikes

Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 151 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 6 Posts
FWIW I made copper rivets for my headbadge when I reinstalled it on my Raleigh Professional. I measured the old brass rivets and found a piece of solid copper wire that was real close and fit the holes nicely. I think it was 12 awg wire but may have been 10 awg. You'll have to measure. I peened one end over on each piece (they must have been ~ 3/16" long) then inserted them from the inside. Set the head badge in place, inserted a steel rod into the HT as a backing mass then carefully peened over the outside end. It didn't take much light hammering. The first one was tricky but the next two were pretty simple. No interferance with the steerer tube and that badge has held nicely for the past 1000 miles. The badge is exceedingly light so I don't think it needs much to keep in place. The copper rivets look just fine - much better than the weird pop rivets that Raleigh used some years. The looked like frog's eyes.
Prowler is online now  
Old 04-26-15, 01:28 PM
  #14  
dweenk 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by Prowler View Post
FWIW I made copper rivets for my headbadge when I reinstalled it on my Raleigh Professional. I measured the old brass rivets and found a piece of solid copper wire that was real close and fit the holes nicely. I think it was 12 awg wire but may have been 10 awg. You'll have to measure. I peened one end over on each piece (they must have been ~ 3/16" long) then inserted them from the inside. Set the head badge in place, inserted a steel rod into the HT as a backing mass then carefully peened over the outside end. It didn't take much light hammering. The first one was tricky but the next two were pretty simple. No interferance with the steerer tube and that badge has held nicely for the past 1000 miles. The badge is exceedingly light so I don't think it needs much to keep in place. The copper rivets look just fine - much better than the weird pop rivets that Raleigh used some years. The looked like frog's eyes.
I think you have defined my back-up plan. Thanks.
dweenk is offline  
Old 05-10-15, 03:29 PM
  #15  
dweenk 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,148

Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more

Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 575 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Dweenk, what size copper rivet would work? I just looked in my voluminous collection of weird stuff out in the garage and found a jar full of copper rivets. From very small to 1/4 inch. Not sure they'd work or not. They're made for countersunk holes, but may work once peened over carefully. If you can give me a diameter, and the approximate length you need, I can send you some to try if you like.
I will take you up on this. I need a rivet (not rivit - been corrected there) the size of #10 or #8 copper wire. I need 3 for the Raleigh badge, and a couple for screw-ups.
dweenk is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gareth
BMX
2
10-04-16 11:57 AM
astyler
Road Cycling
2
07-04-10 04:57 AM
ryanelvis
Road Cycling
21
03-09-06 12:36 AM
BiKe_GuY666
BMX
5
07-09-04 11:32 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.