Show me your English "Club" bikes
#76
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Given the appearance of "club-inspired" bikes, I thought it's time to show this one. Frame is an On-One Lincolnshire Poacher. Fancy fleur-de-lis lugs, track ends, made in Taiwan. I've had it set up in various ways: with an SRAM 2-speed auto shifting hub though currently it has an AW with a bar-end shifter.



#77
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I've been running 82inches, using the highest gear which is 1:1 as my primary. It's a bit steep for anything but dead flats, the two lower gears are for climbing.
I've tried to run higher using the middle gear in the hub as primary but there seems to be more backlash and I find I need (use) the lower gears more than the taller.
I've tried to run higher using the middle gear in the hub as primary but there seems to be more backlash and I find I need (use) the lower gears more than the taller.
#78
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The great bikes just keep coming. The appreciation and even further development of this style of classic bike is wonderful and inspiring for me to see.
This thread is tempting me to leapfrog over the two Sports projects I have going and straight into my dream British Club bike project. Lots of great ideas in this thread.
This thread is tempting me to leapfrog over the two Sports projects I have going and straight into my dream British Club bike project. Lots of great ideas in this thread.
#79
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When I ordered my Vincitore, I specified I would run 28mm tires with mudguards. I HAVE run 32mm with the same 'guards, and with careful adjustment it all worked, but I prefer the ride with 28s. I initially used old Dia-Compe BRS 300 calipers, but then switched over to pair of Shimano RSX or something similar, 47-57mm reach, that the LBS had in its display case. Fender/tire clearance works pretty well with this set up, as I learned a few years back when I did rides like these - Internal Detours: mud, sweat and fixed-gears, Internal Detours: too much rain for roadside tea -
I love this bike and I have to find more time to go ride it!
I love this bike and I have to find more time to go ride it!
#80
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
'72 Lambert certainly checks off the "English" box. Mudguards, chainguard, IGH, Brooks and old centerpull brakes all fit right into the category.
The aero brake levers and Shimano 8-speed IGH kinda push it right back out again. And black rims? Huh?
What say, you, O jury of my peers? Does the Lambert frankenbike belong in the club?

The aero brake levers and Shimano 8-speed IGH kinda push it right back out again. And black rims? Huh?
What say, you, O jury of my peers? Does the Lambert frankenbike belong in the club?


#81
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So here are a few frame shots after cleaning with soap. The head tube has a decal instead of a badge, the Royale top tube, BSA fork, and Made in England down tube decals appear to be water slides. The seat tube bands and down tube Raleigh decals are foil.
The drive side crank arm is bent inward about 1/32". I have ridden the bike and it is not noticeable, so I am going to ignore it.
e
#82
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Sorry about some of the crappy close ups - my camera seems to go in and out of macro mode randomly.
#83
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#84
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But if I turn it around, it works fine. Sometimes you get lemons, and sometimes...

#85
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Inspired by this thread, a few weeks ago I decided to build up a bike the clubman aesthetic. My challenge was to use only parts I had on hand. The only thing bought for this build was a $5 cog to get the gearing right. I didn't have a English frame, or even British or European to work with. So here is the build of a Miyata finished this morning while watching the Giro TT.
Basic build info:
- '82/3 Miyata 912 frame (in rough cosmetic shape)
- S3X laced to Open Pros. Suntour sprint hub up front. 54/17 base gear.
- Sugino Might Competition crank, some nice Japanese pedals
- Cinelli stem and bars.
- DiaCompe levers and NCG500 brakes




Basic build info:
- '82/3 Miyata 912 frame (in rough cosmetic shape)
- S3X laced to Open Pros. Suntour sprint hub up front. 54/17 base gear.
- Sugino Might Competition crank, some nice Japanese pedals
- Cinelli stem and bars.
- DiaCompe levers and NCG500 brakes





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#86
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I did this one a few years ago. Sorry for the crappy picture. It was mostly built from the parts bin. Kabuki Super Speed frame, Shimano hub with 18 tooth cog and using the 42 tooth inner ring. The gearing is around 47, 63, and 84 inches.
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#87
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In the idiom, with pics to follow shortly, I finally added an S-RF3 to my Bikes Direct Windsor TimeLine. I found the discussion of "pathroad" frames interesting. That's what this bike is. It (was, until today) a single speed road bike; really, it's an all-rounder since it runs 700/32 and will take up to 38s.
Anyway, it has the track ends filled with an S-A 3-speed hub. In the idiom, though not a Raleigh. Pics soon.
Note: it would be nice if Raleigh offered an AW equipped Rush Hour.
Anyway, it has the track ends filled with an S-A 3-speed hub. In the idiom, though not a Raleigh. Pics soon.
Note: it would be nice if Raleigh offered an AW equipped Rush Hour.
#88
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I'm loving this thread so I'm going to try get it active again! Here's a few of mine.
1952 Rudge Pathfinder:




1956 Rudge Ulster Sports (very rare)

1935 Raleigh Golden Arrow Super Sport:



And I just bought this one so it's not been cleaned up yet. A 1954 Raleigh Lenton Sports:

Thats just a few of the club bikes I have owned I look forward to seeing more of yours.
1952 Rudge Pathfinder:




1956 Rudge Ulster Sports (very rare)

1935 Raleigh Golden Arrow Super Sport:



And I just bought this one so it's not been cleaned up yet. A 1954 Raleigh Lenton Sports:

Thats just a few of the club bikes I have owned I look forward to seeing more of yours.

#89
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@shadaboot28 - you Brits (or Welsh or Scots, you don't say where in the UK you are!) have all the cool stuff at reasonable prices! I would love to build up a club bike out of a Carlton (finding an actual club bike in my area is like finding hens teeth, and EBay is ridiculously pricey if one shows up). Seem to be plenty of Carltons on ebay.co.uk and other sources for reasonable sums of money. I'll trade you all of the Chicago made Schwinns for all of the Worksop made Carltons
#91
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A '74 Raleigh Sports frankenbike, done in a club bike style. Finished this last summer, haven't been able to ride it yet, though I only have about 15 pounds to go.





#92
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RRA (Raleigh Record Ace) frame and fork from 1948 (I think) with a variety of components, many of them as old as the frame, but none of them original.
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#93
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Very nice! I have always wanted a RRA but i've only seen about 2 for sale in the last 4 years! And when one comes up it goes for a hell of a lot of money.
#94
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Hi,
I just finished this mid 60s English Club Racer. The frame was built by Bill Soens of the Liverpool Soens family of cyclists. Jim Soens, the family patriarch, was a racer in the early 1900s. Jim later became a frame builder and bike shop owner. He had four sons who were all involved in cycling. All started racing, but moved on to other cycling endeavors. Jim’s most well known son, was Edward “Eddie” who was a respected English cycling coach during the years after WW2 through the 70s. Bill is Eddie’s son. Bill started building frames in the late 50s and labeled the with his fathers name. In a 10 to 12 year period, he built ~800 frames in the shop which he operated under his father’s name. As I understand it, all of his frames were built for local competitors and many were “Club” models. I have frame #777, which according to Bill Soens was built during the mid to late 60s.
As was usual with English bikes from this period, the components were constantly changing. A bike may have been originally with the components the rider had available and/or could afford. Components were replaced or upgraded as needed. When I acquired the bike, last September, the old original appearing parts were the Milremo stem and GB bars. Most of the components were low end that had been install just to keep the bike on the road. It had a decent set of wheels, Campy Triomphe hubs with Mavic MA2 rims. It also had a beat up Campy aero seat post. Decent, but not period correct. As received, the bike was reasonably light, 22lbs.
My bike has been rejuvenated with what some refer to as a restoration +1 componentry. This process utilizes next generation components of the same level/type/manufacture. Interestingly, the bike came with braze-ons for bar end shifters. According to the historical data, these were popular with the club cyclists of that period because they allow them to focus on riding efficiency rather than shifting. My bike is currently equipped with a Campy Nuovo Gran Sport drive train, Weinmann 605 side pull brakes with drilled levers, a fluted seat post / allen key binder bolt and the Milremo stem with wider GB bars. It’s still rolling on the Triomphe/Mavic wheels, but I have a set of Campy Record high flange hubs that I will build new wheels with as soon as I find the appropriate rims. It also has Suntour ratcheting barcons instead of something period correct. I chose these because they are readily available and function much better than what would have been used in the 60s.
Prior to starting the component change over, I stripped the parts off the frame, cleaned the few rust spots and did some minor touch up. The bike will probably pass the “10 foot test”. I wanted to preserve the patina and decals, although, the decals are not original or correct. Correct decals are available, but refinishing may not be in the future.
Due to some medical restrictions, I’ve only put a few miles on the bike, but these have gotten it dialed in and everything functions well.
For those interested in vintage English bikes, check out these forums: www.cyclechat.net, www.lfgss.com, www.retrobike.co.uk, CTC Forum ? Index page.
Cheers,
Van
I just finished this mid 60s English Club Racer. The frame was built by Bill Soens of the Liverpool Soens family of cyclists. Jim Soens, the family patriarch, was a racer in the early 1900s. Jim later became a frame builder and bike shop owner. He had four sons who were all involved in cycling. All started racing, but moved on to other cycling endeavors. Jim’s most well known son, was Edward “Eddie” who was a respected English cycling coach during the years after WW2 through the 70s. Bill is Eddie’s son. Bill started building frames in the late 50s and labeled the with his fathers name. In a 10 to 12 year period, he built ~800 frames in the shop which he operated under his father’s name. As I understand it, all of his frames were built for local competitors and many were “Club” models. I have frame #777, which according to Bill Soens was built during the mid to late 60s.
As was usual with English bikes from this period, the components were constantly changing. A bike may have been originally with the components the rider had available and/or could afford. Components were replaced or upgraded as needed. When I acquired the bike, last September, the old original appearing parts were the Milremo stem and GB bars. Most of the components were low end that had been install just to keep the bike on the road. It had a decent set of wheels, Campy Triomphe hubs with Mavic MA2 rims. It also had a beat up Campy aero seat post. Decent, but not period correct. As received, the bike was reasonably light, 22lbs.
My bike has been rejuvenated with what some refer to as a restoration +1 componentry. This process utilizes next generation components of the same level/type/manufacture. Interestingly, the bike came with braze-ons for bar end shifters. According to the historical data, these were popular with the club cyclists of that period because they allow them to focus on riding efficiency rather than shifting. My bike is currently equipped with a Campy Nuovo Gran Sport drive train, Weinmann 605 side pull brakes with drilled levers, a fluted seat post / allen key binder bolt and the Milremo stem with wider GB bars. It’s still rolling on the Triomphe/Mavic wheels, but I have a set of Campy Record high flange hubs that I will build new wheels with as soon as I find the appropriate rims. It also has Suntour ratcheting barcons instead of something period correct. I chose these because they are readily available and function much better than what would have been used in the 60s.
Prior to starting the component change over, I stripped the parts off the frame, cleaned the few rust spots and did some minor touch up. The bike will probably pass the “10 foot test”. I wanted to preserve the patina and decals, although, the decals are not original or correct. Correct decals are available, but refinishing may not be in the future.
Due to some medical restrictions, I’ve only put a few miles on the bike, but these have gotten it dialed in and everything functions well.
For those interested in vintage English bikes, check out these forums: www.cyclechat.net, www.lfgss.com, www.retrobike.co.uk, CTC Forum ? Index page.
Cheers,
Van
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...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
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#95
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@shadaboot28: Man, those are some sweet bikes.

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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#96
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On one side of the equation, the thing I like about the true fixie is that it forces you to learn to pedal at every conceivable cadence. For example, on Saturday I rode my fixie 110 miles, 7100 feet of climbing, maximum speed 37.4 mph according to my gps program. I don't think I'll do that again! On some of the descents I had to pedal at a 175 rpm or so, which is getting pretty close to scary!
#97
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Comp GS tribute to the RRA

#98
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I've come to terms with the fact that this one is just a little too long for me so it's on the chopping block.
Untitled by ColonelJLloyd, on Flickr

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#100
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