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Show me your English "Club" bikes

Old 03-01-21, 01:55 PM
  #176  
jish1969
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I finally get to throw my hat into this ring... just finished this Roberts I spent the winter on. Old English meets new English...
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Old 12-17-21, 08:26 AM
  #177  
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1948 P. Barnard & Son. (Will be at Eroica Britannia with me in 2022):


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Old 06-20-22, 05:25 PM
  #178  
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I finally got around to organizing my Sturmey Archer hubs.



Organized and stored in 7 Boxes.



Summary of the hubs from my spreadsheet:



Some of my other Bike Stuff is shown on my Flickr site at this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/moonm/...7628707166153/
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Old 06-20-22, 09:36 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by moonm View Post
I finally got around to organizing my Sturmey Archer hubs.



Organized and stored in 7 Boxes.



Summary of the hubs from my spreadsheet:



Some of my other Bike Stuff is shown on my Flickr site at this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/moonm/...7628707166153/

Wait. You own 15 ASC hubs?! Beautiful and beautifully organized collection!
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Old 06-20-22, 11:56 PM
  #180  
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The modification of the Sturmey Archer trigger is very clever! But the mounting clip for the antique Optimus kerosine/parafin stove is quite unusual! Is that your manufacture or a formerly available aftermarhetorical product?
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Old 06-21-22, 08:46 AM
  #181  
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My 1946 Higgins Ultralite


More pictures here 1946 Higgins Ultralite (fattiretrading.com)
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Old 06-21-22, 03:17 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
I'd need to know how the O.L.D on a Super Course would work with a 4 1/2" SA 3 speed hub. But apparently, it can be done. I've also heard that you can use a crank with a 10 speed sprocket with a single speed chain, but I have no experience with this myself. Just wondering what problems I would have to overcome with a Super Course 3 speed conversion.
Sorry for this zombie reply, but the topic seems to be ever green! It's certainly a current project for me, and interestingly I have a spare Super Course frame I have no plans for!

I have a Club which is a 1952 Rudge, and to refurbish it for the modern road, I dropped the steel chainset and chose to fit a vintage TA, and keep the SA AW rear hub. The SA sprocket is too wide for a ½ x 3/32 chain, and needs a ½ x ⅛" chain, which the original was. But the original one (marked "Raleigh Industries") was totally worn and stretched. I found a new ½ x ⅛ packaged by Specialized, so ... good! Other reading told me the front sprocket needs to be for 1/2 x ⅛, and I found a TA chainring that will fit in all respects - it feels fantastic just on the new chain! My original rear OLD is also 114 mm, and that matches yours - no mods are needed to my frame rear end - also good! With the drivetrain of a track bike I gather (and several authorities here have confirmed), I need to make the rear and front chainlines match to keep the chain from climbing itself off of the chainrings, so the next issue is, what will that take. I'p planning to use the original BB cups with new balls and a new TA spindle (to match the tapers). The TA spindle's bearing positions are the same as those of the original Raleigh cotterred spindle, so the TA spindle will be a drop-in. At the moment I'm working on cleaning up the old parts and refitting them, to test the chainline alignment. This is one of the key issues.

The next most key one is to replace the original Dunlop Super Lightweight rims (heavy but beautiful chromed steel!) with alloy, in my case Wolber Modele 58 in 40 sp and a Super Champion in 32 sp. All together this will shave the mass down by about 2#. While I have the wheels unspoked I plan to respoke with 15/17 gauge stainless spokes or whatever is available, butted, and "good." I might also swap the AW out for a Sturmey Archer alloy FW or FM which I also have. Similar in vintage to my AW and my original trigger is 3sp/4sp, so it might be a drop-in upgrade. All in all this is more of a hot-rodding project than a simple overhaul!

I've looked into a supplemental rear derailleur but I don't know how useful or feasible it would be. With a vintage rear mech I'll only be able to wrap 10 or 15 teeth at most, and I don't know how this will work out, also considering the ⅛" chain which is really not made for lateral flexibility. I figure with a modern chain I have to get a standard TA chainring and maybe a special SA rear sprocket to match the 3/32" derailleur chain.

For a Super Course frame, the original OLD would be 120 mm or maybe 126-ish if it has been upgraded for a 6-cog freewheel. Cold-setting to spread the frame can also be done to compress a frame from 120 to 114. Probably one should think twice if the frame has already been spread to 126 - it's not common for multiple cold-settings to have caused frame damage, but a recent situation on one has been discussed in a thread on an '80s Peugeot with Vitus tubing.
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Old 06-21-22, 03:31 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
The next most key one is to replace the original Dunlop Super Lightweight rims (heavy but beautiful chromed steel!) with alloy, in my case Wolber Modele 58 in 40 sp and a Super Champion in 32 sp. All together this will shave the mass down by about 2#. While I have the wheels unspoked I plan to respoke with 15/17 gauge stainless spokes or whatever is available, butted, and "good." I might also swap the AW out for a Sturmey Archer alloy FW or FM which I also have. Similar in vintage to my AW and my original trigger is 3sp/4sp, so it might be a drop-in upgrade.
A word of warning: The alloy FM hub has a disappointing way of the hub body cracking and coming apart. The FW does not do this.
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Old 06-21-22, 03:33 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by clubman View Post
The Birmingham chainguard makes that bike hot.
My cuffs and shoelaces love it!
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Old 06-21-22, 06:56 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
A word of warning: The alloy FM hub has a disappointing way of the hub body cracking and coming apart. The FW does not do this.
Thanks, Salubrious! How are the alloy AW shells?
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Old 06-22-22, 03:49 AM
  #186  
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shadaboot28 I'm still interested in this thread, and I'd love to see your pics, especially since you have Rudges. I found (here in Ann Arbor, MI) a 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I can verify what it is by its equipment and "livery," and am working to get it back on the road. At the moment Photobucket says they are not available. Can you get them back up?
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Old 06-22-22, 04:25 AM
  #187  
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My Rudge as received


Rudge Aero Special more or less as received.

Main ravages of rust: seat cluster, seatstay, chainstay at BB. I'd like to touch up the top tube and the chainstays, so I would need a color match and a "Made in England" decal.

Frame figuring is mostly intact.

Headbadge is a winner!

Right after I bought it. Front mudguard missing, I added the old Selle Anatomica, and some Specialized 27x1 ¼ tires.

Real live Reynolds!
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Old 06-22-22, 10:07 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Thanks, Salubrious! How are the alloy AW shells?
They are just fine as long as they have not been abused. Nice Rudge BTW. I have a Pathfinder that I am looking to build up.
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Old 06-23-22, 02:11 PM
  #189  
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What kind of abuse?
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Old 06-23-22, 02:19 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
What kind of abuse?
Elongated spoke holes.
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Old 06-23-22, 02:26 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
Elongated spoke holes.
so, the rear wheel is as new laced 4x, and my observation has been that the steel ones at least have a pretty decent fit between the spokes and the holes. Are the holes different between the steel and alloy models?

I guess I don't under stand the FM failures you mention, in the first place.

Any light to shine on the problem?
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Old 06-23-22, 02:32 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
so, the rear wheel is as new laced 4x, and my observation has been that the steel ones at least have a pretty decent fit between the spokes and the holes. Are the holes different between the steel and alloy models?

I guess I don't under stand the FM failures you mention, in the first place.

Any light to shine on the problem?
The holes are the same.
From what I understand the FM has a disturbing way of pushing its guts through the side of the hub body, usually near the spoke flange, a bit like a hernia. Its not a problem if in a steel body but I've never seen one of those. I think they may have simply machined the hub body a bit too thin but I've not investigated it. I only found out because it happened to me; when I found a replacement hub body from a friend he simply gave it to me, admonishing that the FM had a way of doing that. This was the Bikesmith guy who is very familiar with 3 speeds.
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Old 06-24-22, 10:58 AM
  #193  
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For those wondering about aw hubs in supercourses. My 73 works fine. No respacing. With a 1954 aluminum shell.

The rear end springs a bit tightening the nuts but it's all secure when riding.
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Old 06-24-22, 11:17 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster View Post
For those wondering about aw hubs in supercourses. My 73 works fine. No respacing. With a 1954 aluminum shell.

The rear end springs a bit tightening the nuts but it's all secure when riding.
Looks like a nice ride to bring on the Lake Pepin 3-speed Tour
https://3speedtour.com/
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Old 06-24-22, 12:56 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
Looks like a nice ride to bring on the Lake Pepin 3-speed Tour
https://3speedtour.com/
Maybe next year!
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Old 06-30-22, 05:54 PM
  #196  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
The holes are the same.
From what I understand the FM has a disturbing way of pushing its guts through the side of the hub body, usually near the spoke flange, a bit like a hernia. Its not a problem if in a steel body but I've never seen one of those. I think they may have simply machined the hub body a bit too thin but I've not investigated it. I only found out because it happened to me; when I found a replacement hub body from a friend he simply gave it to me, admonishing that the FM had a way of doing that. This was the Bikesmith guy who is very familiar with 3 speeds.
I just spoke to them today and it is not something that is guaranteed to happen to everyone who swings a leg over a bike with an FM.
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Old 07-01-22, 09:02 PM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
They are just fine as long as they have not been abused. Nice Rudge BTW. I have a Pathfinder that I am looking to build up.
Talk about your Pathfinder!
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Old 07-03-22, 02:29 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Arbutus View Post
I just finished this one. It’s a Claud Butler Tour of Britain from September of 1956, just weeks before the brand (in its original configuration) went belly-up. I didn’t get the frame with any of the original parts (as far as I can tell) although the previous owner had already brought it about 65% of the way towards a drop-bar 3 speed build. The rear wheel came from a previous purchase—an alloy SA AW laced to a 27” Dunlop rim built in a bike shop in LA c. 1959 by the guy I bought it off of Craigslist from! I’m also a vintage stove collector, so I was delighted to finally get a Terry’s stove clip to round out the full RSF / CTC dress-up game. I feel so lucky to have found such a beautiful English lightweight frame in my size here in California!







And about the shifter: The frame has a single French-threaded shifter boss. I filed the clamp off of a SA trigger shifter and enlarged the bolt hole in order to fit the round shifter boss. My friend here in Sacramento (who does business as “Cycle Cats”) then brazed the shifter onto an anti-rotation fitting that I had from a similar Huret clamp-on shifter. It shifts beautifully now and I think he did a perfect job with it. As a kludge, I think it has a real well-done home-made quality that fits in with all of the odd-ball shifting arrangements of these English club bikes.




As I tried to say before, the Shifter modifications is outstanding! But so is the clamp that holds the antique Optimus kerosine/ parafin stove! Was this clamp a commercially manufactured part or a one off custom Fabrication? Did it come with the bike or was added by you?
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Old 07-11-22, 03:14 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Talk about your Pathfinder!
Not much to say at this point. I'm seeking cranks and probably building up wheels. I might be doing a north road bend on the bars though. I already have a couple of drop bar machines- a later Lenton and a Bates (the latter equipped with sewups and an SA alloy FW hub. Maybe that one should get a photo in here?
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Old 07-12-22, 07:47 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by elcraft View Post
As I tried to say before, the Shifter modifications is outstanding! But so is the clamp that holds the antique Optimus kerosine/ parafin stove! Was this clamp a commercially manufactured part or a one off custom Fabrication? Did it come with the bike or was added by you?
I managed to find the appropriate Key Word for a search and found that these clips were available as an aftermarket part. The Terry Company (Probably better known for the handlebar watch clip) was apparently the best known maker.
See:
The Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection Objects Items

these antique stoves, are another hobby of mine and seeing a confluence of these interests had me quite interested.
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