What should I look out for?
 

I've recently been putting some time in down at my local bike CO-OP. I pretty much just fix up bikes that are donated or acquired and get them ready to be sold. A lot of times I'll see classic and vintage bikes but I don't know if they're any good without looking every single one of them up. So my question is this.

Are there any C&V bikes that are/were very nice that people don't take a second look at today? Maybe old schwinns that were better than expected, or one I've recently learned of, Centurions.

I rode a Centurion Sport DLX yesterday (bit big for me), and was surprised it rode so well. I looked it up and found that it was a base model, but still a solid bike if you can get it for <$100. Learned that most centurions are solid bikes, something I did not know.

I'm in the market for a nice riding C&V bike, but don't want to pay oodles for it (meaning I'd love to find one at the coop that I can buy.)

Until you get familiar with brands, builders and models, some relatively simple indicators that it could be desirable... There are other indicators and exceptions

Lugs
Tubing material (Reynolds, Columbus, Ishiwata, proprietary butted)
Light weight
Absence of turkey levers on brake handles, and dork disk (spoke guard) on rear wheel
Forged (instead of stamped) dropouts

I would take a look at Randy Jawa's My Ten Speeds site, but in general, I would look at the frame/fork first.

1) Forged rather than stamped dropouts
2) Tubing type
3) Lugged (generally)
4) Level of workmanship on the frame. Do you perceive quality construction?
5) Weight. A good steel lugged frame will generally be 5 lbs or so, including the fork (but not the headset or any other parts).

And to add to what has been said, generally bikes with stem shifters indicate a lower pedigree.

Keep a sharp look out for light weight lugged steel frames with cotterless cranks. Way back in the last century we used to do the "two finger" test. If you can place the two fingers of your right hand under the top tube in the bike's center of gravity and lift the bike off the ground without hurting your hand it's a very nice bike. Try it. Do it on an old Huffy. Then try it on a Centurion. You probably can't even get the Huffy off the ground.

You guys are great. Thanks for all the good information!

One good indicator is good components. Its not infallible but usually good bikes have good components - Campy, Dura Ace, Ultegra, 600, Suntour Superb. Even without knowing the name you can usually tell by the finish and material that they are higher end components.

And bear in mind, the rules change on older bikes. A 1980 bike with a cottered crank is probably junk, but a 1965 bike with a cottered crank may be very nice indeed.

This is how to determine Vintage Bicycle Quality. Hope it is a help.

Like many, when I'm scanning pictures on Craigslist of steel framed bikes from the late 60's onwards, my eyes go to the rear drive side dropout. If it has a derailleur hanger, I'll look closer.

There are some exceptions to this, mostly French, but it's a very simple eye test. If it has a hanger, there's a high chance the tubing isn't "gas pipe". Internal geared bikes are another exception.

I'm buying the frame first, components second. Some look at wheels, I build my own, but wheels are #2 on the cost list.

If you are volunteering in the co-op, talk to the the more experienced volunteers. Have them help ID one for you.

My standard advice is to look for late 70's and 80's Japanese bikes as a starter names like Miyata, Centurion, Panasonic, Bridgestone, Fuji, Nishiki, Univega from there look for stickers that say cro-mo or double butted or brande names like listed above.

check with co-op rules, I know some charities that don't want volunteers grabbing the good stuff without ok

Unfortunately many of the old frames have been painted, so many of the stickers aren't there anymore. And I'm not about to sweep up all the good stuff. I'd just fix it up and pay whatever it was valued. :)

Also become familiar with Sheldon Brown's (RIP) web site.