Plaque removal from H+Son TB14 valve stem ferrule, done.
06-12-15, 01:04 PM
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Plaque removal from H+Son TB14 valve stem ferrule, done.
I had just posted my favorable impressions of the TB14 rims in the "Rim opinions needed" thread today, and I noted that the "plaque" emblem at the valve stem appeared to be retained by a sort of downsized chainring bolt/nut sans any Hex socket.
Since my Suntour cage removal tool with it's tiny prongs did not quite fit the slotted internal nut, I proceeded to the workshop and developed a removal process that retains the nut/"ferrule" but ditches the bold plaque.
I first applied my very small-sized S-K circlip pliers, but could not get the nut to turn.
So I next fashioned a hollow "punch" and soft-faced "mandrel" fitted to the dimensions of the bolt and nut, in the hopes that a blow from my 3-pound hammer would compress the assembly sufficiently to negate the pre-load force that maintained the bolt/nut's grip on the shiny-side wall of the TB14 rim.
I rested the screw head with copper washer on the cloth-covered head of my bench vise to support it's function as a soft-faced mandrel, then gave the 7mm socket/extension one blow of the 3# hammer.
It all worked splendidly after I first sourced a "mandrel" (shorty 6mm screw with copper washer to protect the visible "ferrule" (bolt head), then ground the tip of a 7mm Craftsman socket perfectly flat to act as a drift punch against the shoulder of the slotted nut inside of the rim. The S-K circlip plier then had an easy time rotating the nut while I held the hollow bolt/ferrule from turning with but a finger.
So, with the bolt and nut removed, I measured the thickness of the plaque at .058", so then put a nyloc nut on a very long 6mm bolt to act as a holder with which I could apply the bolt to the grinding wheel so as to remove some .050" of threaded length (finished length cut to .235").
A mere piece of paper towel shimmed the holder's bolt stub protruding above the nyloc nut, just tight enough into the bolt so that the bolt's rotation could be controlled during grinding.
Pictures follow. Note that the parts fit up inside of the rim to present the exact same depth and shape to the base of the valve stem as before.
Since my Suntour cage removal tool with it's tiny prongs did not quite fit the slotted internal nut, I proceeded to the workshop and developed a removal process that retains the nut/"ferrule" but ditches the bold plaque.
I first applied my very small-sized S-K circlip pliers, but could not get the nut to turn.
So I next fashioned a hollow "punch" and soft-faced "mandrel" fitted to the dimensions of the bolt and nut, in the hopes that a blow from my 3-pound hammer would compress the assembly sufficiently to negate the pre-load force that maintained the bolt/nut's grip on the shiny-side wall of the TB14 rim.
I rested the screw head with copper washer on the cloth-covered head of my bench vise to support it's function as a soft-faced mandrel, then gave the 7mm socket/extension one blow of the 3# hammer.
It all worked splendidly after I first sourced a "mandrel" (shorty 6mm screw with copper washer to protect the visible "ferrule" (bolt head), then ground the tip of a 7mm Craftsman socket perfectly flat to act as a drift punch against the shoulder of the slotted nut inside of the rim. The S-K circlip plier then had an easy time rotating the nut while I held the hollow bolt/ferrule from turning with but a finger.
So, with the bolt and nut removed, I measured the thickness of the plaque at .058", so then put a nyloc nut on a very long 6mm bolt to act as a holder with which I could apply the bolt to the grinding wheel so as to remove some .050" of threaded length (finished length cut to .235").
A mere piece of paper towel shimmed the holder's bolt stub protruding above the nyloc nut, just tight enough into the bolt so that the bolt's rotation could be controlled during grinding.
Pictures follow. Note that the parts fit up inside of the rim to present the exact same depth and shape to the base of the valve stem as before.
Last edited by dddd; 06-12-15 at 03:27 PM.
06-12-15, 01:24 PM
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^+1. Maybe to fit a schrader tube, but then why would you want to do that either?
06-12-15, 01:56 PM
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Why?
That is the question!
Actually it's at customer's request (customer's choice), not that I had yet made any promises. I will very likely do the same on subsequent builds for myself however.
I'm actually averse to removing any tasteful and period-correct labeling, and do not find such (like brake lever hood embossments as from Cane Creek or Justines) to be objectionable.
I may even prompt the design of a rim-seam label that extolls H+Son, not that this rim's seam is visible externally.
I like good companies, and labeling any good thing to allow one to recognize the maker is always welcome.
This first pair I'm building is for a mint 1973 Italvega Super Speciale, into which the new owner is investing a substantial sum to bring it to a very tasteful state of minimalist retro-mod, solely to effect lower gearing, wider handlebars (rider is 6'3+") and to use contemporary 25mm clincher tires.
A look in keeping with the style of the original Fiamme Ergal tubulars is preferable to any newer-fangled plaque about the valve stem.
BTW, here is the requisite after/before:
That is the question!
Actually it's at customer's request (customer's choice), not that I had yet made any promises. I will very likely do the same on subsequent builds for myself however.
I'm actually averse to removing any tasteful and period-correct labeling, and do not find such (like brake lever hood embossments as from Cane Creek or Justines) to be objectionable.
I may even prompt the design of a rim-seam label that extolls H+Son, not that this rim's seam is visible externally.
I like good companies, and labeling any good thing to allow one to recognize the maker is always welcome.
This first pair I'm building is for a mint 1973 Italvega Super Speciale, into which the new owner is investing a substantial sum to bring it to a very tasteful state of minimalist retro-mod, solely to effect lower gearing, wider handlebars (rider is 6'3+") and to use contemporary 25mm clincher tires.
A look in keeping with the style of the original Fiamme Ergal tubulars is preferable to any newer-fangled plaque about the valve stem.
BTW, here is the requisite after/before:
Last edited by dddd; 06-22-15 at 09:35 PM.
06-12-15, 02:03 PM
#5
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
It was ugly. Well done.
06-12-15, 02:23 PM
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I'm glad you explained why, now it doesn't bother me 
I personally like that little bit of branding but then again all my bikes tend to be a mix of old and new.
I personally like that little bit of branding but then again all my bikes tend to be a mix of old and new.
