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RADAC Rebuild ZK (Bridgestone RD-530) Guidance appreciated

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RADAC Rebuild ZK (Bridgestone RD-530) Guidance appreciated

Old 07-06-15, 08:51 AM
  #1  
Zer0K00LRADACAL
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RADAC Rebuild ZK (Bridgestone RD-530) Guidance appreciated

Preface:
I picked up this beautiful steed, for just under $200 and for me, it's perfect. However, I have experienced a slight problem: Sometimes, when I'm going uphill, with a strong cadence, the gear "slips" and it completely throws me off (quite annoying to say the least).

I would like to remedy the problem, as well as, slightly modify my machine, with a mix of new components and original parts. For the original parts, I have compiled a list and will order accordingly.

For the newer components, I need some help in identifying the brand, model and compatibility. As well, any suggested upgrades, are quite welcome.

Furthermore, I plan to repaint my machine (properly, might I add). However, this would be a separate project, as current reading suggests, a demanding feat, that utilizes non-consumer tools; requiring some degree of finesse. I will also need some guidance during this time.

On to the bike...

Machine: Bridgestone
Model: Radac- RD 530 (Aluminum Hybrid Frame)
Gear: 12 speed
--------------
Current Parts/Setup:

1.Crank Set: Sakae SR crank 165 mm bicycle (2 6 speed). Crank length is 165 mm. Number of teeth is 52 and 42.
2.Rear & Front Hub: Sansin 5345 DK Japan
3.Front derailleur: Suntour 4050
4.Rear derailleur: Suntour accushift 4050
-Cable Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Cable Adjuster Yes
-Max Cog Size 24
-Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Shifting Systems: SunTour AccuShift Friction
NOTE-(One of the 6sp Accushift derailleurs produced by SunTour during their race
to catch up with Shimano in the indexed shifting race. Mid-to-Upper-range
derailleur in their sport/rec offerings lineup. SunTour recommended
a max cog size of 24t when using it in indexed mode, but will easily
handle up to 28t in a friction shifting setup.)
5.Front and Rear Brakes: Dia Compe
6.Skewers: Sansin
7.Spoke protector: Shimano CP-R540
8.Tires:700x28C (28-622)
9.Wheels:unknown
10.Bars: Sakae CT bars
11.Stem: Sakae Custom Stem
---------
I have attached some pictures for reference (I have many more pictures, that I want to post but I hit the attachment limit)

Regarding the last picture, labeled, "Outline reference only". What I would like to do, is upgrade my bike, with 2 of the components from this bicycle.

First, I need to know the brand and model of these parts and second, if they will be compatible with my model.

1. Crankset, name and model?
2. Saddle, name and model?


*Outline reference finished---------------

Continuing with the last component:

Wheels, I would like to use the: H Plus Son SL42 or the 666 fluid discs ...Would these fit on my bike? If not, is there any way that I can adjust them or the gear setup, to make them fit? (Keep in mind, I do not want a fixed gear setup and would prefer to keep my 12 speed if possible).

Also, I have seen the SL42's, in a friction setup here: Battaglin Road Bike - Pedal Room (I guess my question is, how can I set this up with my bike? What are the steps?)

Closing words
Any guidance is greatly appreciated and I sincerely thank you, for taking the time to read.

-ZK

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
bars and stem.jpg (97.1 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg
chainwheels.jpg (97.6 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg
crank bolt.jpg (97.3 KB, 76 views)
File Type: jpg
crankset-chainring.jpg (92.7 KB, 79 views)
File Type: jpg
fdr.jpg (91.8 KB, 79 views)
File Type: jpg
gearing.jpg (101.4 KB, 78 views)
File Type: jpg
hub.jpg (99.0 KB, 75 views)
File Type: jpg
lower seat tube.jpg (86.4 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg
rdbehind.jpg (98.6 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg
rdr.jpg (96.1 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg
outline.jpg (100.9 KB, 87 views)
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Old 03-05-16, 04:45 PM
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I have what may be a Radac on the way, so we'll see if I have any suggestions.
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Old 03-05-16, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I have what may be a Radac on the way, so we'll see if I have any suggestions.
So you're a member in a vintage bike-of-the-month club or something? You pay your monthly fee and wait to see what they ship you

To OP: you'll need a better pic to ID that saddle and crankset. If I were to guess, I'd say the crank is FSA. With the right bottom bracket, a modern crankset like FSA should work with your Radac. You may run into a problem using the more narrow-space chainrings of a modern crankset with the 6 speed setup it sounds like you intend to keep. The chainrings will require a more narrow chain and not sure if that will play nice with your 6 speed cog set.

The h plus son rims you want to use should work fine. Rims do not generally discriminate; that's the job of the hub. You just need to make sure the spoke holes of the rim match the hub.

BTW, the Battaglin you linked to is gorgeous.
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Old 03-05-16, 07:31 PM
  #4  
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[QUOTE=Zer0K00LRADACAL;17954879]Preface:
I picked up this beautiful steed, for just under $200 and for me, it's perfect. However, I have experienced a slight problem: Sometimes, when I'm going uphill, with a strong cadence, the gear "slips" and it completely throws me off (quite annoying to say the least).

I would like to remedy the problem, as well as, slightly modify my machine, with a mix of new components and original parts. For the original parts, I have compiled a list and will order accordingly.

For the newer components, I need some help in identifying the brand, model and compatibility. As well, any suggested upgrades, are quite welcome.

Furthermore, I plan to repaint my machine (properly, might I add). However, this would be a separate project, as current reading suggests, a demanding feat, that utilizes non-consumer tools; requiring some degree of finesse. I will also need some guidance during this time.

On to the bike...

Machine: Bridgestone
Model: Radac- RD 530 (Aluminum Hybrid Frame)
Gear: 12 speed
--------------
Current Parts/Setup:

1.Crank Set: Sakae SR crank 165 mm bicycle (2 6 speed). Crank length is 165 mm. Number of teeth is 52 and 42.
2.Rear & Front Hub: Sansin 5345 DK Japan
3.Front derailleur: Suntour 4050
4.Rear derailleur: Suntour accushift 4050
-Cable Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Cable Adjuster Yes
-Max Cog Size 24
-Attachment Bolt Size: 5mm Allen Key
-Shifting Systems: SunTour AccuShift Friction
NOTE-(One of the 6sp Accushift derailleurs produced by SunTour during their race
to catch up with Shimano in the indexed shifting race. Mid-to-Upper-range
derailleur in their sport/rec offerings lineup. SunTour recommended
a max cog size of 24t when using it in indexed mode, but will easily
handle up to 28t in a friction shifting setup.)
5.Front and Rear Brakes: Dia Compe
6.Skewers: Sansin
7.Spoke protector: Shimano CP-R540
8.Tires:700x28C (28-622)
9.Wheels:unknown
10.Bars: Sakae CT bars
11.Stem: Sakae Custom Stem
---------
I have attached some pictures for reference (I have many more pictures, that I want to post but I hit the attachment limit)

Regarding the last picture, labeled, "Outline reference only". What I would like to do, is upgrade my bike, with 2 of the components from this bicycle.

First, I need to know the brand and model of these parts and second, if they will be compatible with my model.

1. Crankset, name and model?
2. Saddle, name and model?


*Outline reference finished---------------

Continuing with the last component:

Wheels, I would like to use the: H Plus Son SL42 or the 666 fluid discs ...Would these fit on my bike? If not, is there any way that I can adjust them or the gear setup, to make them fit? (Keep in mind, I do not want a fixed gear setup and would prefer to keep my 12 speed if possible).

Also, I have seen the SL42's, in a friction setup here: Battaglin Road Bike - Pedal Room (I guess my question is, how can I set this up with my bike? What are the steps?)

Closing words
Any guidance is greatly appreciated and I sincerely thank you, for taking the time to read.

-ZK

UOTE]



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Your frame is aluminum, but not a "hybrid" frame as we think of in America. I would not paint it, the aluminum will not rust!
As far as shifting goes, I owned a RADAC frame in the 1980's, and did not have this problem. Sometimes a very flexible frame can "autoshift" when pushing very hard. My best guess is that your shift levers are too loose, and need to be tightened.
For wheels, any 700c wheel will work fine. The distance between the rear dropouts is 126mm. Any 700c wheels with a 126mm width hub will work.

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Old 03-05-16, 09:08 PM
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I have a RADAC myself. They have surprisingly good rides for aluminum bikes.

My recommendations:

1) The problem in low gear has to do with the cogs on the freewheel. Time to replace it, the chain and probably the chainrings, but definitely the chain and freewheel.
2) Putting a new "fat" crankset on that bike is inappropriate. Keep the ones you have, but swap out the bottom bracket for a cartridge type - or just swap out the spindle for a bolted model.
3) Deep-V type modern wheels aren't great for this bike. New wheels will require at least 130mm drop-out spacing. I'd stick with what you have.
4) Your best seat choice for that bike will be Selle San Marco Rolls or Avocet Racing 1. The Rolls is the best choice, particularly if you can get one with titanium rails.
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Old 03-06-16, 08:53 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by plonz View Post
So you're a member in a vintage bike-of-the-month club or something? You pay your monthly fee and wait to see what they ship you
Now there's an idea with merit, and a whole slew of explanations/rationalizations already built in.



Originally Posted by gugie View Post
I owned a RADAC frame in the 1980's
Originally Posted by kunsunoke View Post
I have a RADAC myself. They have surprisingly good rides for aluminum bikes.
Hmm.

If you two don't mind, I'll consult you for advice? The frame set in question has not arrived, but it's going to be a blank canvas.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I think any advice given may well dovetail with Zer0KOOLRADACAL's requests.

If not, tell me, and I'll consult in PM's.

At present, I have a limited parts bin:
3x8 Campy Avanti Ergos
8-sp Miche/Rigida wheelset-silver
8-sp Campy Avanti FD (triple), RD (long cage) and calipers, all polished.
Triple Ofmega Vantage crankset (52/42/30) that I'd prefer not to use.

or

10-sp only Fulcrum 7's and no other matching components

or

6/7-sp Maillard/Matrix Titan (nearly black-anodized traditional eyeletted) wheels an a 7-sp 105 RD.

Colors are wide open, as it's a definite repaint. I have seen the pics of the frames in custom paint, no paint at all, and OEM. OEM is out, not paying for that kind of situation. Haven't seen the decals anywhere, and don't feel like designing them if I could. I've considered a two-color scheme, tubing vs. lugs and crown and dropouts, etc.

Seatpost is going to be odd if it doesn't come with one, like 25.0?

I am not averse to modern stuff at all. From what I understand, it's a pretty light frame, and a C&V lightweight to go with my Carbon-R would not be a bad idea. I've not had an aluminum bike of that age in a long time. I have considered a modern compact crankset with that long cage Campy rear and a wide-range 8-sp Shimano cassette + Wheelf Mfg 8-sp Campy spacers. It could be a 50/34, 12-30 climber, on modern wheels, using the Campy Ergos, FD, RD.

What sayeth youse?
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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 03-06-16 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 03-06-16, 07:19 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
Now there's an idea with merit, and a whole slew of explanations/rationalizations already built in.
Hmm.

If you two don't mind, I'll consult you for advice? The frame set in question has not arrived, but it's going to be a blank canvas.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I think any advice given may well dovetail with Zer0KOOLRADACAL's requests.

If not, tell me, and I'll consult in PM's.

At present, I have a limited parts bin:
3x8 Campy Avanti Ergos
8-sp Miche/Rigida wheelset-silver
8-sp Campy Avanti FD (triple), RD (long cage) and calipers, all polished.
Triple Ofmega Vantage crankset (52/42/30) that I'd prefer not to use.

or

10-sp only Fulcrum 7's and no other matching components

or

6/7-sp Maillard/Matrix Titan (nearly black-anodized traditional eyeletted) wheels an a 7-sp 105 RD.

Colors are wide open, as it's a definite repaint. I have seen the pics of the frames in custom paint, no paint at all, and OEM. OEM is out, not paying for that kind of situation. Haven't seen the decals anywhere, and don't feel like designing them if I could. I've considered a two-color scheme, tubing vs. lugs and crown and dropouts, etc.

Seatpost is going to be odd if it doesn't come with one, like 25.0?

I am not averse to modern stuff at all. From what I understand, it's a pretty light frame, and a C&V lightweight to go with my Carbon-R would not be a bad idea. I've not had an aluminum bike of that age in a long time. I have considered a modern compact crankset with that long cage Campy rear and a wide-range 8-sp Shimano cassette + Wheelf Mfg 8-sp Campy spacers. It could be a 50/34, 12-30 climber, on modern wheels, using the Campy Ergos, FD, RD.

What sayeth youse?
Seatpost is 25.8. I didn't remember, but St. Sheldon sez it is, so whos' to argue.

I'm pretty sure you're stuck with 7 speed because of the spacing. Aluminum doesn't like to be cold set. I had a Shimano 600 group on it, 28 spoked wheels, and elephant IUD handlebars as my tri-bike.

Paint it watever you want, as long as you don't powder coat it. I'm not sure how the aluminum and/or lugs would take the temperature.
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Old 03-06-16, 08:19 PM
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I remember putting a couple RADACs together back when they were new. I kinda see it as a vintage weight weenie bike, basically Japan's answer to Alan and Vitus. I'd go for light Japanese components, and a basic Godzilla sci fi look, maybe multi colored anodized parts. Dia compe still makes a bunch for them. That was the hip thing in 1989 or so.

For paint, how about just polish it up and clear coat it?
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Old 03-07-16, 05:12 AM
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It's a Japanese bike. I'd save the I-tey parts for another build, personally. Grant had them spec'd in with 105 one year, as I recall.

The Matrix rims will do in a pinch, but you will eventually want to swap out the Maillard hubs for 105 cartridge types, which will be stronger.

I have Dura-Ace cassette hubs on Campagnolo tubular rims - which improves the ride further. The crankset is Sugino XD - not period correct, but it does permit use of 110bcd rings.

25.8 is the correct seatpost size.
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Old 06-03-17, 03:48 AM
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Thanks for everyone who took their time to reply, I truly appreciate it. I still have the Radac but now, I also have a vintage 1987 Kestrel 4000 ^ _ ^ (which by the way, I am now listing)
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