filthyphil

Hey there BF friends,

I was hoping for some advice on weather or not I should purchase this bike, or what I should be looking for when checking it out/test riding? Do you see anything that will immediately need to be replaced or fixed that I may be missing? I plan on riding this bike for fun, commuting, and conditioning for mountain biking and other activities.

here is the craigslist posting

https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/5100590582.html

thanks,

filthyphil

KonAaron Snake 

It's not a bike I'd go anywhere near...I just don't trust 20+ year old bonded lugs or carbon. I know there are a couple of members into bikes like this who will disagree...but it wouldn't be under me. Price seems fair I suppose...I don't view these as being desireable, but the parts are nice for the money.

72Paramount

Older carbon with glued lugs. If you are at all on the heavy side I would pass for a steel frame. That being said, my wife has the same bike and loves it.

plonz 

I think these are cool bikes but I am always wary of older carbon tubes. I've had them start to de-laminate from years of sweating on them and it just ruins the look of the bike. One small bubble today could end up being a large peeling area tomorrow. You'll also want to make sure the carbon tubes remain properly bonded to the aluminum lugs after all these years.

Soody

7 speed 600 is the absolute sweet spot for components. Plentiful and cheap parts/ upgrade options.

You've got your foot in the sexy retro door, and quasi modern technology.

I really don't buy the fear mongering about old carbon. If it's lasted this long, it's probably a good one.

That being said, you should very very closely scrutinize the frame, or better yet, have an expert do it for you. Any signs of deep scratches, cracks, any damage around the lugs, clear coat peeling even, take a pass.

On top of that, all the usual, but you're looking for haggling points really, there's not much that can't be fixed.

The downside compared to steel is that you can't spread the rear from 126 to 130mm, so even though modern wheels take 7 speed cassettes, the hubs won't fit in your frame. There are ways to get around this, and you can get new 126mm wheels, but if those wheels are not in good shape, I would take a pass.

ppg677

I'd hit that. Good price. However unless you are one fit dude, riding a double in the Boulder area mountains will be brutal. That said, you can easily switch to a triple or compact crankset.

I agree that 7-speed indexed downtube is awesome.

I see people riding bonded carbon tube bikes all the time. Inspect closely. Look for any kind of lug separation, etc.

72Paramount

My wife's bike is running a 10speed cassette on the rear with no problems whatsoever with a dura ace rd and simplex turkey levers, I don't think the 130mm thing is an issue. I don't remember "stretching" anything to put those wheels on.

PBC peugeot

WOW that is a cool bike, you should grab it !
logically though, it is not a good first road bike choice
still it is cool enough that I want it, (for my 5th or 6th road bike)

jetboy 

I have had the same bike and rode it for years- no issues with the carbon, delamination or bonds failing. there were some instances of this in some frames, but as above: if its still fine after 30 years, it is not one prone to failure, and its probably got another 30 in it.

I am 6'2" and 210lbs...

I have a similar carbon lugged frame now. (look kg 251) and no problems.

Baroudeur

That Shimano 600 group is an awesome set of components. I've got the same on my Colnago, and I love them.

As far as the frame is concerned, I have one of those (though I think mine is slightly older than yours). I like it -- it feels fast and solid, though my steel Colnago has a more "lively" feel. The one I have was mistreated before I got it (including being subjected to hot Arizona temperatures during outdoor storage) -- despite this, I have had perhaps 1,000 trouble-free miles on it since restoring it. Maybe I've been lucky -- as you'll read above, some people dislike the frame construction. I'll also note that I only weigh 140 lbs -- maybe I'd be less confident in the frame if I were heavier.

Anyhow, here's a picture of mine... I think they make pretty bikes, at very least!

RoadGuy

If it fits, the joints are tight, and there is no corrosion showing on the alloy or on the joints, IF this was to be your 2nd, 3rd, or 4th bike, I'd say go for it.

BUT, you admit it will be your first, and you are looking for guidance. That means that you don't know what to look for/at, and this should not be your first bike, you are not ready to choose, inspect, ride, or care for a carbon bike (which requires some care that is not required by a steel or aluminum bike).

If you can afford it, it fits, someone can check it out for you, and you don't mind buying it, and hanging it up till you are ready to ride it, I'd say go for it.

Lascauxcaveman 

A risk, to be sure. But an interesting one. Those crazy wheels, too... I'm guessing they're actually a little heavier than a convention race wheel. But aero!

filthyphil

I really appreciate the advice, I ended up pulling the trigger on the bike, the carbon and joints were pristine and I don't think I'll have many issues getting used to the feel of the bike as I am a relatively skilled and experienced mountain biker. However one thing I am totally inexperienced in is caring for a carbon frame, any pointers?

ppg677

Um, just be careful not to overtighten stuff. Perhaps dont attach a Burley trailer to it. Perhaps don't go offroading. I can't think of any other "care" advice. Nice buy. Enjoy it. Looks like a great first road bike in my book. I made the opposite mistake and spent $1800 on my first road bike.

Fahrenheit531 

As above, don't overtighten stuff, and just don't ding it. My understanding is any compromise in the CF is a mortal wound. My wife has a CF/alum Trek (1995) that's her favorite bike in the world. I avoid solvents when cleaning it (better safe than sorry) and just go with a soft-rag wipedown. Then she rides the heck out of it some more.

jetboy 

nicely done. sometimes its good to live a little dangerously! and at $300 if it does suddenly fall apart (it won't) you can sell off the components and wheels and not have spent much more than a night out for pizza and a beer.

For whatever reason Epics are fairly common around here - I see them quite often wherever large fleets of velo meet. its a good bike, and looks spectacular and (as was discussed in another thread) - looks goes a long way in keeping the value of a bike up beyond its performance value.

Chombi

As long as the bike frame is still in good shape, and show no signs of abuse and neglect, you should be OK buying/riding it. But if you are particularly "hard" on bikes, consider with going with a metal brazed or welded frame instead. But do not write off bonded bikes generally from your list as some here do, as the failures with these frames had been much more exaggerated through the years than what is reality, IMO......

RobbieTunes

To the naysayers, I say "nay."
To you, I say "welcome to the forum."
To the bike, I say "look it over good. If it looks good, good."

I've had 4 lugged carbon "vintage" bikes. None were a problem in any way, other than a couple of the larger frames being more flexible than I'd prefer on a particular sharp turn on a local descent. None were something I'd covert to TT/Tri mode and expect max power transfer like some BB-978643459 bottom bracket you can also use for a jet-ski.

Somewhere, I have a picture of a BF member doing both a rear wheelstand and a front wheelstand on an Alan Carbonio. He had no problems with it. I would not recommend one for a criterium; if you're going to be banging elbows and frames and going for maximum acceleration, it's not the one. If you want a smooth 25-100 mile bike, "aye."

filthyphil

do you know what model year the frame is? I can' seem to find anything specific online

72Paramount

1989