Stripped seat post binder bolt -- now what?
#1
Aspiring curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saint Louis
Posts: 2,686
Bikes: Guerciotti, Serotta, Gaulzetti
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
10 Posts
Stripped seat post binder bolt -- now what?
The Allen fitting on my seat post binder bolt is stripped. What's my next move? It's the kind with a 5mm hex head on both sides. Only the drive side is stripped, but that's the one that matters.
__________________
"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably
"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably
#2
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,253
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 88 Times
in
45 Posts
drill it out
#4
Senior Member
Use one of those reverse drive bits that are made for stripped out screws.
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,334
Bikes: 89 Schwinn 754, 90 Trek 1100, 93 Trek 2300, 94 Trek 1400 (under construction), 94 Trek 930, 97 Trek 1400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Use a new, sharp, reverse-threaded (if you can find one) bit made specifically for drilling metal. The largest size that will fit down into the ruined hex shaped without jamming into the sides of the hole. Use oil, with light pressure.
You only want to drill down to the bottom of the head of the bolt to break the head of the bolt loose from the threaded portion. Once the head of the bolt comes loose, you will be able to push the threaded portion of the bolt out with the nut.
This is basically the same process you use to remove pop-rivets, in case you have done that before.
You only want to drill down to the bottom of the head of the bolt to break the head of the bolt loose from the threaded portion. Once the head of the bolt comes loose, you will be able to push the threaded portion of the bolt out with the nut.
This is basically the same process you use to remove pop-rivets, in case you have done that before.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 999
Bikes: Gunnar, Shogun, Concorde, F Moser, Pete Tansley, Rocky Mtn, Diamant, Krapf, Marin, Avanti, Winora, Emmelle, Ken Evans
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 255 Post(s)
Liked 342 Times
in
193 Posts
If you've got spare imperial keys lying around, try hammering the slightly larger size in?
#8
Catching Smallmouth
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: In a boat
Posts: 552
Bikes: 1990 Specialized Sirrus Triple, 1985 Trek 460, 2005 Lemond Tourmalet, 1984 Schwinn LeTour 'Luxe, 1988 Trek 400T, 1985 Trek 450, 1997 Lemond Zurich, 1993 Diamond Back Apex, 1988 Schwinn Circuit, 1988 Schwinn Prologue, 1978 Trek TX700, Sannino
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked 109 Times
in
61 Posts
Find a torx bit that is a tight fit and tap it in with a hammer. It's worked for me quite a few times but if the bolt is really bad drilling always works.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: TORONTO , ONT , CA
Posts: 813
Bikes: '86 AMBROSI / C RECORD. PINARELLO MONTELLO / FRAME, FORK.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Because an Allen (hex-head) bolt is harder than a grade 5, I would first use an abrasive point to round-out the internal flats.
Not following the above and while especially using a 135 degree split-point drill bit, you may just find that you have destroyed the bit,
the reason being that the special configuration of the split point tends to require support. I would also recommend the purchase of a set of
Stubby, aka Machine Screw, 135 degree split-point drills, as drill length is usually not required but drill stamina at the point is always of main concern.
Again re split-point drill bits, take note that they require no centre-punching acting as a guide; they being their own, in that they immediately bite into the parent
metal; the conventional method causing them to hang-up on the centre-punched parent metal's displacement.
As usual, lots of high quality drill lube, medium RPM, heavy pressure. Why heavy pressure? you want to cut the parent metal; not polish it!
Regards,
J T
Not following the above and while especially using a 135 degree split-point drill bit, you may just find that you have destroyed the bit,
the reason being that the special configuration of the split point tends to require support. I would also recommend the purchase of a set of
Stubby, aka Machine Screw, 135 degree split-point drills, as drill length is usually not required but drill stamina at the point is always of main concern.
Again re split-point drill bits, take note that they require no centre-punching acting as a guide; they being their own, in that they immediately bite into the parent
metal; the conventional method causing them to hang-up on the centre-punched parent metal's displacement.
As usual, lots of high quality drill lube, medium RPM, heavy pressure. Why heavy pressure? you want to cut the parent metal; not polish it!
Regards,
J T
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,924
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1591 Post(s)
Liked 537 Times
in
308 Posts
And if you have a bench grinder, you can taper the business end of the hex wrench just a little so it will tap in easier. I've done this on stripped 6mm stem bolts twice. And hex wrenches are pretty cheap, so I don't mind messing them up.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#11
Friendship is Magic
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 21,566
Bikes: old ones
Mentioned: 300 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24524 Post(s)
Liked 8,265 Times
in
5,781 Posts
.
...they're not all keyed, and if yours is not it would be easier to go at it from the other side.

However, given the laws of bicycle repair, yours is probly keyed. You'll know pretty quickly.
But it would have to be one of the sort that has a hex on both sides, and lots of the newer ones don't.
...they're not all keyed, and if yours is not it would be easier to go at it from the other side.

However, given the laws of bicycle repair, yours is probly keyed. You'll know pretty quickly.
But it would have to be one of the sort that has a hex on both sides, and lots of the newer ones don't.

__________________
#12
Aspiring curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saint Louis
Posts: 2,686
Bikes: Guerciotti, Serotta, Gaulzetti
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 20 Times
in
10 Posts
I ended up hammering in a star shaped hex drill bit that was slightly larger than the hole, then turning that with a crescent wrench. Worked beautifully! Thanks all.
__________________
"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably
"Party on comrades" -- Lenin, probably