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Not sure if I should take a chance on a pre owned frame & fork?

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Old 07-27-15, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Murray Missile
What makes a '66 Corvette valuable? People with more money than brains. They handle like crap compared to a 2014, they are horribly slow compared to a 2014, they ride like a hay rack and get crappy gas mileage. The only thing they have going for them is they are damn sexy looking and they became a status symbol so people with money will pay ridiculous prices for them.
Three out of four is not bad. Yes the 66 Vettes drank gas like there's no tomorrow. Yes any Corvette from the C4, C5, C6 and C7 era can out handle it and as for the ride, yes it was kind of rough. But for your other statement, "horribly slow", uh, try again. The base 300HP, 66 Vette could still wipe up over 75% of the cars on the road today and the top dog 425HP, 427 (aka land rocket by insurance companies) didn't receive a serious challenge from a later model Vette until the 2002 C5 Z06, and that would be a tight race unless the C5 suckered the 66 into a turn. The first Vette that could seriously wipe up one of those old 427s was the C6 Z06. If I rolled up to a 66 427 with my base coupe C5, I'd just roll down the window and let him know, he won, no sense wasting the gas. As for a base C7, maybe it's a little faster, but not by much.
Must remember, the 60's era Corvette HP ratings were notorious for underrating the HP. The 69, L88's were rated at 430HP, but pushed out over 500HP easily.
Sorry, just had to respond to that one.
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Old 07-27-15, 09:41 AM
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If you can't ascertain after an inspection & test ride you need to either:

1. Pony up and by a new bike with a warranty, to calm your mind.

2. Spend more time researching what & how to buy, before wasting the seller's time.

Its a bike. Its not too hard to see what wrong, if anything.
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Old 07-27-15, 09:42 AM
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You can buy a lugged Mercian frame built with Reynolds 631 for around $1100, custom built and color with choice of braze ons. For more money you can have it built with higher spec tubes, you can get creative with the paint scheme and have a bike that is truly yours.
It will be in the perfect shape you want, with the geometry you want and the color you want. Or you can look for a NOS high end frame or a frame that you strip and paint there by losing value from it.
I think for what you want a new frame is the way to go.
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Old 07-27-15, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by roccobike
and that would be a tight race unless the C5 suckered the 66 into a turn.
The joys of vintage American sports cars. Great at acceleration and top speed. Perfectly fine cars as long as the road was pretty straight.
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Old 07-27-15, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by DMC707
im just taking a wild guess that the OP doesnt want another CV'er in his area possibly to snatch the bike out from under him until he takes a second look

i am guessing its a big name big dollar frame and if it was a steal, he'd be posting pics of it now from his own garage- so likely has one of those borderline asking prices


i know you didnt mention this Robbie, somebody else did above, but all these folks saying "Just buy a new frame"
My question is where? Sure there are a small handful out there, but unless you go with a small custom builder, lugged frames are getting rare unless some NOS is found
The widespread use of newer air hardened steel means there are some TIg bikes, sure (Or maybe its been so long since i looked that i really dont know whats left)
I saw a nice Waterford last week on a group ride - Tig welded. Same with a Steelman i encountered yesterday
...most of the accessible stuff seems to be coming out of the UK now. Not custom to measure (although you can get that for a premium) but off the rack small production stuff.The affordability goes up and down with the exchange rate. There have been a couple of threads recently, probably will show up on a google search.

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Old 07-27-15, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
In generally we are for the most past a honorable bunch of crooks. We don't usually scoop bikes mentioned here.
...I have little honor, but my garage is full.
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Old 07-27-15, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by roccobike
Must remember, the 60's era Corvette HP ratings were notorious for underrating the HP. The 69, L88's were rated at 430HP, but pushed out over 500HP easily.
Sorry, just had to respond to that one.
The same for the Mopar boys. The early 340 Magnum was rated at 275hp but we all knew it to be closer to 350.
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Old 07-27-15, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
You and miyatalover need to connect.

There is a lot of vague information in your posts.
Sounds like the bike is "tricolor" Shimano 600. Good.
Sounds like the bike is dirty, not wrecked. Good.
Sounds like the bike is lugged steel. That can be awful (All-Pro from K-Mart) to outstanding (any number of makes and models).
Sounds like it's either "this one" or "buy new?" And why? No other bikes in the area? I understand if you have to drive.

What you've given us is less than one picture would indicate.
You have 400+ posts, and you should know a bit better.
Welcome to C&V, but try to get specific information, so assistance can be accurate.

Well I have not put all my cards, photos on the table for someone else to jump on the deal, and beat me out if I am do want it. I have asked about what I do noty know as this will be my first rodeo, and do not want to get hurt.

If I pull the triger I will start a thread about my project, if I do not, I will tell why with a picture. I have asked the seller for another look, and it is still for sale so I hope to hear back.
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Old 07-27-15, 10:54 AM
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If it seems undamaged and you can do the work yourself, it sounds like a fine idea if you can afford it. Just always remember that a project like this is going to cost at least 25% more than you expect going in.
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Old 07-27-15, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fender1
If you can't ascertain after an inspection & test ride you need to either:

1. Pony up and by a new bike with a warranty, to calm your mind.

2. Spend more time researching what & how to buy, before wasting the seller's time.

Its a bike. Its not too hard to see what wrong, if anything.

If money grew on trees it would be no problem, I would just go pick some extra. But because money don't grow on trees I like to be careful. If I am unsure I asked questions to get information until I am sure, or move in a different direction.
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Old 07-27-15, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TheManShow
If money grew on trees it would be no problem, I would just go pick some extra. But because money don't grow on trees I like to be careful. If I am unsure I asked questions to get information until I am sure, or move in a different direction.
You can't be "sure" with a used item. You could buy it have a tube snap the next day and be out of luck. I look for signs of abuse/neglect/condition and haggle accordingly. If a visual inspection and test ride showed no problems, why the hesitation? Driving two hours (there and back) is a serious time commitment. There is no way to have a group on the internet tell you that the bike is a solid deal without lots of close-up pictures etc.. Buying used is a of leap of faith.
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Old 07-27-15, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fender1
You can't be "sure" with a used item. You could buy it have a tube snap the next day and be out of luck. I look for signs of abuse/neglect/condition and haggle accordingly. If a visual inspection and test ride showed no problems, why the hesitation? Driving two hours (there and back) is a serious time commitment. There is no way to have a group on the internet tell you that the bike is a solid deal without lots of close-up pictures etc.. Buying used is a of leap of faith.
True.

This notion that a bunch of people looking on Smartphones at 2 inch images of bikes can consistently nail an ID is rather silly.imho

We've all been stung by a poor purchase or two. It simply isn't the end of the world.
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Old 07-27-15, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fender1
You can't be "sure" with a used item. You could buy it have a tube snap the next day and be out of luck. I look for signs of abuse/neglect/condition and haggle accordingly. If a visual inspection and test ride showed no problems, why the hesitation? Driving two hours (there and back) is a serious time commitment. There is no way to have a group on the internet tell you that the bike is a solid deal without lots of close-up pictures etc.. Buying used is a of leap of faith.

First off I am retired so my time has only the value I place on it, if I was still working it would be 350-500 bucks a day plus expenses, and royalties. The one thing about the internet there are people with a lot of information that I did not think of on my first trip. So I listened closely did migh glean some information to help push a decision. That have been several points made so far that are things I did not check, and will check this Saturday when I make my return trip. Owner is on the road most of the day, apprently he works a long way from home. So like I said if I get the project I will post before & after photos.

The one thing I learned in the business I was in was try and gather as much information as you can about any project, or assignment. never assume everything is like it was layed out by some editor who was three thousand miles away. Then your home work is done, and you are more prepared to tackle the assignment, project, or make an intellegent decision when buying something.
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Old 07-27-15, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gomango
True.

This notion that a bunch of people looking on Smartphones at 2 inch images of bikes can consistently nail an ID is rather silly.imho

We've all been stung by a poor purchase or two. It simply isn't the end of the world.
Boy Scout have a moto. Be Prepared. Marines accomplish goals inwar because they adapt, overcome & improvise. I was both...LOL
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Old 07-27-15, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TheManShow
First off I am retired so my time has only the value I place on it, if I was still working it would be 350-500 bucks a day plus expenses, and royalties. The one thing about the internet there are people with a lot of information that I did not think of on my first trip. So I listened closely did migh glean some information to help push a decision. That have been several points made so far that are things I did not check, and will check this Saturday when I make my return trip. Owner is on the road most of the day, apprently he works a long way from home. So like I said if I get the project I will post before & after photos.

The one thing I learned in the business I was in was try and gather as much information as you can about any project, or assignment. never assume everything is like it was layed out by some editor who was three thousand miles away. Then your home work is done, and you are more prepared to tackle the assignment, project, or make an intellegent decision when buying something.
Good luck! Hope it is a solid deal.
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Old 07-27-15, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TheManShow
Suggestions, as I am considering a second look**********

I suggest you go ride it for 15minutes and buy it if you like it. You have said its a frame you've wanted. You have shown you know bikes and have experience, so anything off will most likely show itself in 15min of riding.
Pull the stem and seatpost to make sure they aren't stuck. During your ride, get off the bike and spin both wheels to listed for any noise in the hubs. Spin the crank and listen to the bottom bracket. If there is crackling/grinding in any of them, stuff is probably pitted and in rough shape. Its still probably worth buying, just factor replacing said parts while you replace the whole rest of the bike with 11speed.


As an aside- I just cant imagine having that 10th or 11th gear will suddenly make my rides better on doubles or triples. If I cant find a comfortable gear in 18 gears, I need to give up riding or get off the bike and walk as I doubt that 20th or 22nd gear will be the porridge that is just right. But hey- in all seriousness you have clearly worked hard for this opportunity, and you will be outfitting it with some choice components. Good luck and post a picture when you buy it so we can finally know what this secret is!
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Old 07-27-15, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...most of the accessible stuff seems to be coming out of the UK now. Not custom to measure (although you can get that for a premium) but off the rack small production stuff.The affordability goes up and down with the exchange rate. There have been a couple of threads recently, probably will show up on a google search.

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There are tons of American builders out there that are very accessible. Some are new and looking to work their way into the market with very competitive pricing. The Bikeforums framebuilder forum would be a good place to see what's out there. Velocipede Salon is another place. Lugs, filet, tig. Take your pick.
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Old 07-27-15, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Pull the stem and seatpost to make sure they aren't stuck.
This.

And if you haven't picked up the parts, don't forget to check Ribble. Between the favorable exchange rate and their already low prices, they can't be beat. Ultegra full group is $560 right now.
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Old 07-27-15, 03:13 PM
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Well I have spent some time on the internet today looking at old catalogues, color charts, photographs, and trying to authenticate if what I see is the real deal. So far everything looks real.


The Shimano Tri Color Group will go unless I can find replacement 8 speed stuff to make keeping it cost effective. But the rim will go, and the hubs will be rebuilt. Then I will do new bars, stem, bottom cartridge, seat post & seat.

My plan is dump the Tri Color Group everything with the exception of frame & fork, and rebuild the bicycle circa 2015 with either Athena 11 speed, Centar 10 Speed or Ultegra 11 Speed. New hubs, rims, bar, stem, seat post, seat, and I should be in the project way less then a custom steel frame.
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Old 07-27-15, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TheManShow
My plan is dump the Tri Color Group everything with the exception of frame & fork, and rebuild the bicycle circa 2015 with either Athena 11 speed, Centar 10 Speed or Ultegra 11 Speed. New hubs, rims, bar, stem, seat post, seat, and I should be in the project way less then a custom steel frame.
You sure about that? I do seem to recall that those Mercian frames are a bargain and I would guess that if you ordered a complete bike from them you'd get a better deal on the components than you will buying them retail at US prices separately. You'd no doubt get a used bike for less than a new Mercian but I don't know if it would be "way less".
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Old 07-27-15, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by roccobike
Three out of four is not bad. Yes the 66 Vettes drank gas like there's no tomorrow. Yes any Corvette from the C4, C5, C6 and C7 era can out handle it and as for the ride, yes it was kind of rough. But for your other statement, "horribly slow", uh, try again. The base 300HP, 66 Vette could still wipe up over 75% of the cars on the road today and the top dog 425HP, 427 (aka land rocket by insurance companies) didn't receive a serious challenge from a later model Vette until the 2002 C5 Z06, and that would be a tight race unless the C5 suckered the 66 into a turn. The first Vette that could seriously wipe up one of those old 427s was the C6 Z06. If I rolled up to a 66 427 with my base coupe C5, I'd just roll down the window and let him know, he won, no sense wasting the gas. As for a base C7, maybe it's a little faster, but not by much.
Must remember, the 60's era Corvette HP ratings were notorious for underrating the HP. The 69, L88's were rated at 430HP, but pushed out over 500HP easily.
Sorry, just had to respond to that one.
You are in a bit of a fantasy land with those numbers.

1966 Corvette 427 12.8@112 L72 427 425 4-Speed 3.36 CD 11/65

Was what a 66 'Vette 427 did in the 1/4 according to motor trend.
According to the National Corvette Museum, an 01 z06 (which would be the closest option package to the 427), ran the 1/4 in 12.6.
The LS2 z51 pulls does 12.7@112.3.

SO this 66 Vette blowing everything else out of the water is unsubstantiated.

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Old 07-27-15, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by davester
You sure about that? I do seem to recall that those Mercian frames are a bargain and I would guess that if you ordered a complete bike from them you'd get a better deal on the components than you will buying them retail at US prices separately. You'd no doubt get a used bike for less than a new Mercian but I don't know if it would be "way less".

I dont know what brand The MAn Show is looking at, --- but as for me -- i'd take a 90's era Serotta, Waterford, Ciocc, DeRosa, MErckx, etc. over a new MErcian just for brand recognition and a bit of "bling factor" alone -- IF it fits (thats a big IF )
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Old 07-27-15, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lord_athlon
You are in a bit of a fantasy land with those numbers.

1966 Corvette 427 12.8@112 L72 427 425 4-Speed 3.36 CD 11/65

Was what a 66 'Vette 427 did in the 1/4 according to motor trend.
According to the National Corvette Museum, an 01 z06 (which would be the closest option package to the 427), ran the 1/4 in 12.6.
The LS2 z51 pulls does 12.7@112.3.

SO this 66 Vette blowing everything else out of the water is unsubstantiated.


No fantasy at all

A 66 Vette is On 6" wide bias ply tires --- get the old dog some rubber equivalent to what a new car is wearing and it would be a different story --- the 2-3 upshift alone in an old Vette would roast the baloneys a few hundred feet
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Old 07-27-15, 05:09 PM
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My money says it's a pdg paramount.
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Old 07-27-15, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DMC707
I dont know what brand The MAn Show is looking at, --- but as for me -- i'd take a 90's era Serotta, Waterford, Ciocc, DeRosa, MErckx, etc. over a new MErcian just for brand recognition and a bit of "bling factor" alone -- IF it fits (thats a big IF )
One of them brands mentioned above.
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