Help with Cyclomodo decals
 

I need some advice for the install of the cyclomodo vinyl decals for my Austro Daimler. The decals are gold lettering with clear edges.

I stripped the frame to bare metal then spayed Rustoleum Self Etching primer.. sanded after 12 hours then applied my Rustoleum enamel Base coat.

I would like to clear coat over my decals
My question is do I clear coat the bike then apply stickers and a final clear over decals

OR decals directly on base coat then the clear coat?

what clear coat would someone recommend in my situation.


Thanks everyone

Decals then clear, make sure to mist your first coat of clear over the decals. I don't start to spray heavy until my third coat.

I have read that some painters recommend one coat of clear before decals, then cleared, but I have only used sloar's method.

And since you've used Rustoleum, I'd go with a Rustoleum clear. And be sure to follow the can's recommendation on curing times. I've ignored them once, and got a nice crinkle coat as a result :rolleyes:

Your issue now is, you've passed the recoat window on your enamel base coat, so your clear is not going to adhere as well as it would have if you did this all at the same time.

I still have a final base coat. I'm waiting now on the 48 hours to pass on my first base to do my final base coat this afternoon. I could clear coat within the 1 hour window the can direction reads but I'm worried that the paint will be too soft to apply decals that soon?

When you order your decals you will get to chose what kind of material you want; be sure to chose the one that is designed to be clearcoated. I found the "wet install" pretty easy; that is, you wet the frame with slightly soapy water (dish soap) and apply the decal over that. The soapy film allows the decal to slide around enough that you can get its location just right. Be sure to let it dry an extra special long time, though; they won't be fully hardened until all that water is gone, which will take at least several days, perhaps a couple weeks depending on conditions. Then clearcoat.

Careful with the Rustoleum clear. The consistency is more on the run side. Easy for flat work but for a rattle can nozzle, spraying compound angles and tubes is a little tricky.

So let the base coat fully cure then decals, then careful clear?

My goal is to make the clear edges fade away in the clear coats

I have a set of Atala decals from Cyclomondo (Greg Softley). Greg's quite responsive (esp given that he's halfway round the world). I wouldn't hesitate to ask his advice. I've not yet installed my Atala decals, but ISTR the instructions saying you had to wait awhile before applying clear coat, especially if you use his soap/water trick to allow them to be a bit more forgiving during application.

If applying over paint be sure to give a month for curing as the paint needs to release gasses.

Important point. ^^^
Don't be in a hurry to apply that forty dollar set of decals. I'd let the final color coat dry for at least a month. In a dry place. Longer if you can. And build up the clear gradually. The first mist coat mentioned above is critical advice.

As for clearing first, FWIW, accomplished model makers gloss coat their models first, quite often, to allow the decals to really "stick down" to a shiny, slick substrate, then over-coat with their matte final coat. Applying decals over a gloss coat can really help them settle and disappear when over coated. YMMV.

That mist coat is what some paint guys call a "tack coat". Clearcoat is generally "thin" and runs easily. That tack coat will do the job if you are careful. Sags happen. Bikes are one of the more challenging subjects to paint due to zero flat surfaces.