Show Us Your Vintage Cannondale!
#1051
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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Question: I have a large frame 1987 ST400. I was thinking of swapping on a Shimano Deore DX full drivetrain(circa 1990) from a mountain bike to give it better lower gearing. Can you think of any issues I may encounter?

#1052
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Sounds like a good idea, the only thing off the top of my head would be just make sure you have the correct chain line. The MTB stuff may be a little far out. I put mountain groups on a couple of bikes lately.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 03-23-20 at 07:37 AM.
#1053
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Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
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Thanks. I was thinking I my have to see about the crank arm length as well since this is currently rocking a 175 I believe.
#1054
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I miss this bike, but, no regrets...great guy got it! Picture taken just down the street...maybe a little regret...gotta move on!

The “twins”...they went everywhere I went when camping or on vacation! They covered all/any terrain I might encounter!
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#1055
Master Parts Rearranger
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RAD Super V!
Also rad ST (with cantis!).
Also rad ST (with cantis!).

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#1058
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1988 SR500 Criterium Series. Originally had the “Blueberry” paint job, but I got tired of the silver steel fork (polished and clearcoated) not matching the blue paint on the rest of the frame. The plan was to strip the paint, polish, then clearcoat with 2K Glamour paint. After reluctantly stripping the excellent DuPont Imron factory paint, I started out with steel wool to take down the machining marks on the various frame tubes. The tubes on my frame looked as though they had been turned in a lathe. Those marks took a while to smooth out, but the aluminum was pretty soft. Once the tubes were relatively smooth, I used Barkeeper’s Friend (the kind for aluminum) to polish the aluminum finer, and get a shine.
It looks pretty good, I think. I may still clearcoat it if the bare metal corrodes, but I prefer the simplicity of just leaving it bare, and using Barkeeper’s Friend to clean it. Would love to do this to one of the 2.8 cantilevered frames, I think that would look awesome. Good project to keep me busy during the downtime and steady rain of the past few weeks.


NDS

Rear Dropout

Weld textures ordinarily hidden by paint

Finished?
It looks pretty good, I think. I may still clearcoat it if the bare metal corrodes, but I prefer the simplicity of just leaving it bare, and using Barkeeper’s Friend to clean it. Would love to do this to one of the 2.8 cantilevered frames, I think that would look awesome. Good project to keep me busy during the downtime and steady rain of the past few weeks.


NDS

Rear Dropout

Weld textures ordinarily hidden by paint

Finished?
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#1059
Dirty Heathen
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Looks really good. I'd just leave it as is, and maintain with something like Mother's mag wheel polish.
Could also go with a basic black graphics package (downtube and headbadge) IIRC the 2016 Synapse came in a 'Raw' finish, that was just that. Looked mega.
Could also go with a basic black graphics package (downtube and headbadge) IIRC the 2016 Synapse came in a 'Raw' finish, that was just that. Looked mega.
#1060
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This showed up at the recycling yard years ago and a fellow worker saved it for me. One of the dropouts seems to be worn more and the wheel sits cockeyed when fully dropped in. Built it up with JB weld, but I may end up grinding a little on the drive side. Seat tube measure c-t is 54cm.

#1061
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My SR500 is like that too. For years I used to cock the rear hub a bit when clamping down the rear wheel, so that the wheel "looked even" between the seatstays. And for years I'd get a broken rear axle about once a year. Until I figured out to just let the wheel sit all the way into the dropouts, and ever since then, there have been no more broken axles.
That one could be a candidate for paint stripping. There's a Terminator lurking under that paint job. I'd love to use something like this for my head tube badge:
That one could be a candidate for paint stripping. There's a Terminator lurking under that paint job. I'd love to use something like this for my head tube badge:

#1062
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1988 SR500 Criterium Series. Originally had the “Blueberry” paint job, but I got tired of the silver steel fork (polished and clearcoated) not matching the blue paint on the rest of the frame. The plan was to strip the paint, polish, then clearcoat with 2K Glamour paint. After reluctantly stripping the excellent DuPont Imron factory paint, I started out with steel wool to take down the machining marks on the various frame tubes. The tubes on my frame looked as though they had been turned in a lathe. Those marks took a while to smooth out, but the aluminum was pretty soft. Once the tubes were relatively smooth, I used Barkeeper’s Friend (the kind for aluminum) to polish the aluminum finer, and get a shine.
It looks pretty good, I think. I may still clearcoat it if the bare metal corrodes, but I prefer the simplicity of just leaving it bare, and using Barkeeper’s Friend to clean it. Would love to do this to one of the 2.8 cantilevered frames, I think that would look awesome. Good project to keep me busy during the downtime and steady rain of the past few weeks.


NDS

Rear Dropout

Weld textures ordinarily hidden by paint

Finished?
It looks pretty good, I think. I may still clearcoat it if the bare metal corrodes, but I prefer the simplicity of just leaving it bare, and using Barkeeper’s Friend to clean it. Would love to do this to one of the 2.8 cantilevered frames, I think that would look awesome. Good project to keep me busy during the downtime and steady rain of the past few weeks.


NDS

Rear Dropout

Weld textures ordinarily hidden by paint

Finished?


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#1064
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This showed up at the recycling yard years ago and a fellow worker saved it for me. One of the dropouts seems to be worn more and the wheel sits cockeyed when fully dropped in. Built it up with JB weld, but I may end up grinding a little on the drive side. Seat tube measure c-t is 54cm.


#1065
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Late 80s SR900
Couldn’t pass this up a few weeks back since I have a soft spot for Cannondales and everything Campagnolo. It was a bit rough but totally original (I swapped out the Sampson clipless pedals)..



#1066
PutABitOfPaperOnThem
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Nice! really clean, and very uncommon.
Welcome to the Athena SR900 club! I'd be curious as to what your serial number is to see how close it is to mine.
i've been doing a few things to mine to make it more user friendly. It's a nice rider!
Welcome to the Athena SR900 club! I'd be curious as to what your serial number is to see how close it is to mine.
i've been doing a few things to mine to make it more user friendly. It's a nice rider!

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#1067
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Thanks! 58030689137
#1068
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I was out buying a 10 speed group for a project. When I told him it was for a 93' Cannondale, this came out...85' sc300 with owners manual. Has been upgraded over the years.





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#1069
Master Parts Rearranger
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I really wish vintage Cannondale paint was more durable than it is. They're so lovely, but it doesn't take much to make them look nicked up. Fortunately with a black paint pen, it'll look dynamite in no time, with no color-matching anxiety!
#1070
Senior Member
@joluja hazetguy There was one of these for sale around here 3 years ago that I posted just for the sake of archiving such a cool bike. As I said in this thread if this one was my size I would have owned it. Still kind of wish I had bought it. I mean it's not like it was that much too big.
fasthair
fasthair
#1071
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It has a metal flake to it. I'm going to try some touch up paint that came with my Infinity. Definently wont hurt it.
#1072
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Ah, right, they did have metallic black. I've still used the black paint pen because it was a whole lot better than nothing. Your solution will be even better.
#1073
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