PAPYTS

Thanks for the campagnolo technical manual. I can't see the ergo coil spring. I have a centaur shifter with g spring carrier made in aluminium ( sorry for my poor English ) . I think I'm doing something wrong with this coil spring. over torquing perhaps ?

gfk_velo

Saw the post off flush with the flat surface of the ring. File the cut dead flat. File the "boss" off the side of the ring, so that you keep that part of the ring is as close to perfectly circular as you can - file and fit, removing as little material as possible, whilst still allowing the ring to drop into it's location and rotate freely a couple of degrees (that is essential for correct lever function).

As an aside, if we have a lever apart at the SC, we always replace both the spring mount ring and the springs ... the mount ring develops two little "pits" under the heel of the springs in use and these lower the spring pressure on the ratchet. The springs themselves will wear and compress a little and eventually fail - so for the cost, given the hassle of a failure (which someone-or-other's Law dictates will happen a week after the lever is stripped and reassembled if you don't replace the parts), we just include the cost of springs and mount ring in every lever service. We do between 10 and 30 a month of various vintages.

gfk_velo

Newer types than the OP has, have a "helper" spring at the back of the lever, held under a cover plate. It's possible to over-tighten it.

If you watch the video at the Campagnolo web site carefully, you can see how to avoid doing so - the lever internal should be rotated fully into the "easy" gear position before you try to attach the spring, and then, you need to lift the central boss that the spring slots into (the spring tensioning bush), rotate it in the direction of the spring and then pick up the end of the spring in one of the narrow slots. Turn the spring tensioning bush with a broad, flat bladed screwdriver through just under half a turn, to the next point where the key way in the spring tensioning bush will engage on the key of the central pivot (hard to explain in words). Then fit the plate over the top of the spring and fix everything together with the central screw.

It's pretty clear in the Campagnolo video but pay attention to the starting point of the lever assembly when you start putting the "back" of the lever in place and to which slot in the spring tensioning bush the sping needs to go into.

jeirvine 

What shop is this? And what's the charge for a rebuild w/springs?
Thanks,
-John

gfk_velo

Hi John - we are Velotech Cycling Ltd - we are the main Technical Centre for Campagnolo in the UK, we look after their tech ed. of retailers, OE and distributors on the one hand, have oversight of technical and warranty based issues on the other and also provide a servicing function for shops and end-customers.

We charge a full strip down and rebuild service in version 1 & 2 ErgoPower levers at £46.00 including the index springs and spring carrier ... this includes postage back to the mainland UK. We get occasional jobs for export as well but it is relatively rare -most countries where Campagnolo sells in any volume have a branch (i.e. Campagnolo North America), one or more Service Centre(s) (SC) or very competent ProShop(s) that can do the required work.

I also have two other businesses - the first looks after general technical education for all cycle mechanics (we have about 40 fulfillment partners around the UK as well as conducting some training and training all the trainers, ourselves, in house), the second of which I am a partner in, which supplies Service Courses to event and race organisers - These two other concerns mean having an in-depth knowledge of other manufacturer's products.

PAPYTS

thanks . It's a LH CENTAUR shifter and the video I've seen on YouTube " campagnolo ergopower RECORD 10 s complete overhall. It's quite the same shifter except not drilled index gear and aluminium g spring carrier instead of synthetic material.

I think I have made a big mistake with the the starting position. I've to check.

I must admit than the guy on YouTube is a champ assembling the spring tensioning bush. This black spring is a problem for me, a wrong starting position another time, too much tension ?

gfk_velo

Sorry, my mistake, I should have asked if you were doing a LH or a RH ...

LH levers are slightly different.

Up until you get to almost the last step, they are basically the same but in mirror image, to the RH.
Just before you come to assemble the helper spring though, the method changes.

Unlike doing the RH lever, you don't twist the lever into the high gear position.

Like doing the RH lever, you assemble the cable bushing and the thumb lever / it's return spring as before, locating the keyway of the spring tensioning bush onto the key of the central spindle.

Unlike the RH lever, the spring anchors onto the lever body itself - you will see a location for it on the "outside" of the lever. You lay the spring into place and then lift the spring tensioning bush slightly so that you can turn it away from the direction that tensions the spring. Pick up the end of the spring in the narrow slot, then turn the tensioning bush in the direction that will tension the spring ... don't engage the keyway of the tensioning bush at the first point that you can but turn the tensioning bush a further 180 degrees to the second point where engagement is possible. So having turned the bushing backwards by mabe 40 degrees or so to pick up the end of the spring, you will turn it about 2/3 of a turn (220 degrees, approx) the other way before engaging the keyway onto the key.

Then you can complete the assembly of the cover plate and central screw, the same as on the right.

PAPYTS

thanks. I find it's very difficult to "feel" central pivot key- male and spring tensioning bush key- female are well engaged. It seems central pivot is too short, or index gear too fat.

I have to chek , an allen key in the central pivot and at the other side pliers in the slots of the top washer : if the allen key turns the assembly is bad.