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DIY bag making

Old 04-21-16, 07:23 AM
  #76  
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[MENTION=29368]rootboy[/MENTION], thanks! I do like the way this one turned out. I realize this "home brew" is not for everyone. But what else can be done with old tubular tires?

I'm tinkering in my head and will attempt to make a handle bar model using the support arms from a vintage Cannondale bag (single piece of round steel that loops over the stem and bars). The one downside is that even after the tire is taken apart, it still wants to curl inwards to form the "tube." I bought a yard of "Duck Cloth" that I can make into a liner and the bottom. I'll make the sides from the old tubular tires. Not certain about the top just yet.

My wife says I need to sketch this all out on graph paper first. I find it kind of fun to just eyeball it and move ahead. The only piece I needed to re-due on the small bag was the strap for the seat post. It was not at the correct position so I took it off and found the "sweet spot" for a good fit.
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Old 04-21-16, 07:50 AM
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Some good looking ideas in here, that's for sure.
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Old 04-21-16, 07:57 AM
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[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] - your tubular bags are fun! I applaud your development cycle and results! You are right, what do you do with spent tubulars? They use to be called sew-ups and you have redefined the term!
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Old 04-21-16, 08:54 AM
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My wife has helped me make a few bags. Most turned out pretty handy.

The black bag was made specifically for the small rack. We bought the material from JoAnns.
The red bag was a cheap waterproof bag modded to fit under the saddle.

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Old 04-21-16, 09:12 AM
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Your red bag looks like the big brother of my roll top saddle bags. Awesome work everyone!
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Old 04-21-16, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stdlrf11
The red bag was a cheap waterproof bag modded to fit under the saddle.
That bag may be inexpensive but if it has all the features you need and is suitable for its intended purpose then its NOT cheap. Well done.

"some times the simplest solutions are the best'. I've made several of those and they are just right. I especially like the roll top feature.
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Old 04-22-16, 06:34 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by SJX426
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] - your tubular bags are fun! I applaud your development cycle and results! You are right, what do you do with spent tubulars? They use to be called sew-ups and you have redefined the term!
Thanks for the compliment! Much appreciated!
[MENTION=159992]stdlrf11[/MENTION] nice work by you and your wife! Well done.
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Old 04-22-16, 07:04 AM
  #83  
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Bob,
do you have pictures of your tubbies bags open? I can't quite figure out the lid closure system. Very nice btw.

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Old 04-27-16, 04:36 PM
  #84  
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first attempt at a front pannier. i'm very happy with the results. a little testing and then i'll make another to go along with it. it's very satisfying to see my improvement from when i first started.





[img]https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13087577_10104544919846048_1166440960482729239_n.jpg?oh=639d8f89a7752f60e12bfbd6741d70f0&oe=57B54EDF[/img

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Old 04-27-16, 07:17 PM
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Cool to see the bags people have been working on. I've been making myself some bags - a QR handlebar bag and a set of panniers - out of x-pac. To cover costs I've also been making small tool rolls and selling them. Works out nicely and I can buy lots of fabric
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Old 04-28-16, 05:11 AM
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post pics when you're done! your other stuff was great. how are you selling your bags, online?
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Old 04-28-16, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Classtime
Bob,
do you have pictures of your tubbies bags open? I can't quite figure out the lid closure system. Very nice btw.

Jeff
[MENTION=102941]aquateen[/MENTION], well done! First class work!

Jeff, I'll try to post more pictures ASAP. Basically I'm using Velcro. I was not all that happy with the results of the "lids/doors" on bags #1 and #2 , so I tried something different on #3 , and liked the result much better.

Bag #1 uses a back flap stitched on at the top and secured with Velcro to the inside of the bag. This one was tough because the Continental Gatorskin tubular is very stiff. You can see how it wants to keep its shape in the bottom picture.




Bag #2 uses two flaps which are hinged with pieces of leather at the top and bottom. The then have Velcro attached so that they stay together when closed.



Bag #3 uses a door sort of like a shoe box lid that is stitched at the bottom of the rear of the bag. It has a strap attached to the top which Velcros to the back.

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Old 04-28-16, 07:42 AM
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What material do you use to hold your rolls together? I used nylon webbing but I think it would be better with something with some stretch
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Old 04-30-16, 02:35 PM
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my rivendell shopsack clone

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Old 05-01-16, 04:48 AM
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[MENTION=102941]aquateen[/MENTION] ^ well executed!
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Old 06-10-16, 10:59 PM
  #91  
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Updating this thread with some recent bags.

Rando bag:







Lightweight mini panniers:



Tool rolls:

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Old 06-11-16, 04:27 AM
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Well done. You're getting 'the wrinkles ironed out" nicely. Good choice using the roll top on the panniers. The simplest designs are the best.
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Old 06-11-16, 05:31 AM
  #93  
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Could someone tell me what type of sewing machine you're using? Just a good quality traditional machine or something specifically for heavy duty sewing?
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Old 06-11-16, 06:05 AM
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Nice work, Whatwolf!

That's an interesting question, Velocivixen. I can't really answer it as I don't use mine for making these kinds of things, yet. But I could.
But if you're looking to acquire something that will handle these heavy nylons and multiple layers, etc., I'd keep an eye out for an old Singer 201. A strong old workhorse machine with a "potted" (direct drive, not belt) motor.
And, furthermore, ignore nearly every ebay listing that says "heavy duty", or "leather" in it, to get ideas or research. ...as it is mostly all lies. Sellers on ebay know lots of people are looking for heavy duty, leather-capable machines. So, they talk them up as being heavy enough to sew leather. Some can. Light leathers. But they're not true heavy duty machines. Almost all of them are just "regular" sewing machines.
Rant over. I'd be curious to know what Whatwolf is using.
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Old 06-11-16, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rootboy
Nice work, Whatwolf!

That's an interesting question, Velocivixen. I can't really answer it as I don't use mine for making these kinds of things, yet. But I could.
But if you're looking to acquire something that will handle these heavy nylons and multiple layers, etc., I'd keep an eye out for an old Singer 201. A strong old workhorse machine with a "potted" (direct drive, not belt) motor.
And, furthermore, ignore nearly every ebay listing that says "heavy duty", or "leather" in it, to get ideas or research. ...as it is mostly all lies. Sellers on ebay know lots of people are looking for heavy duty, leather-capable machines. So, they talk them up as being heavy enough to sew leather. Some can. Light leathers. But they're not true heavy duty machines. Almost all of them are just "regular" sewing machines.
Rant over. I'd be curious to know what Whatwolf is using.
Haha, I'm still on this:

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Old 06-11-16, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
Could someone tell me what type of sewing machine you're using? Just a good quality traditional machine or something specifically for heavy duty sewing?
A traditional old Singer will work for denim or medium ballistic nylon, and perhaps it could do a simple two-layer seam in very light leather. For heavier leather or multiple layers of thick material, a heavier duty machine will work better. Note, old industrial sewing machines usually aren't good for this--though they are sturdier, they operate at blinding machine speeds, typically with an on/off clutch that requires considerable skill to master. A slower sailmaker's machine or leather-purposed machine is better if you want to sew thick materials. (Although you can slow down the old industrial machines with a modern variable speed motor, that cuts back on the power available, which sorta defeats the purpose)

Note that the 600 series Singer and newer (from the mid 60's on) uses some plastic components in the drive train, not as good for heavy materials as the old Model 66 or 15's or the 300/400/500 series. I've made several amplifier covers with medium weight vinyl on my Model 66 and 503a machines.

One key is to use the proper needle for your material--leather needles and vinyl needles have different tips than general-purpose needles. Also set your thread tension properly for the thicker seams. I've found the old machines often have their thread tension mechanisms gummed up from old solidified lubricants, so they won't work properly until that little mechanism is properly (thoroughly) cleaned and oiled.
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Old 06-11-16, 04:23 PM
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As always, I love all your stuff Whatwolf. Any advice working with Xpac? Should I try not using pins with the fabric? I'm planning a few projects for later this summer.


For a sewing machine, I use an old Singer 201
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Old 06-11-16, 07:43 PM
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This is what I use. Super smooth and my wife has Bernina 240 that's a few years older. The swiss watch of sewing machines. I originally bought one of those dark grey Singer Heavy Duty machines off of Amazon but it was so bad I boxed it back up the same night and sent it back the next morning. Really erratic with it's stitching and sounded like a jackhammer. Just felt really cheap overall.

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Old 06-11-16, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by whatwolf
Updating this thread with some recent bags.

Rando bag:





That photo looks like it could have been taken on Mount Helix in my neck of the woods. I haven't ridden up there for years. I may do it again this week. You've inspired me.
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Old 06-11-16, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CMC SanDiego
That photo looks like it could have been taken on Mount Helix in my neck of the woods. I haven't ridden up there for years. I may do it again this week. You've inspired me.
Craig
Good. Yes, that's Helix. It was very foggy that day so you can't see Mt. Miguel in the background.
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