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FSA Gossmer Triple crank set on an old Centurian

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FSA Gossmer Triple crank set on an old Centurian

Old 09-25-15, 10:30 AM
  #1  
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FSA Gossmer Triple crank set on an old Centurian

I have built up an old Ironman frame. It has a seven speed freewheel and an unknown chain. I have installed a FSA Gossamer crankset that is probably about 10 years old. I think it may be a 9 speed and it has 53-30 engraved in the big ring. I have a Ultegra 6503 FD on the bike with DT friction shifter. The bike shifts both up and down between the small ring and the middle ring. It, however, tries to hang up between middle ring and the big ring on the up shift only. It comes back to the middle ring as it should. Is it possible that the chain is causing the problem? If so would a 9 speed chain work better and would it work ok with the 7 speed freewheel? I never considered the crankset 9 speed until I ran into the problem. I may have to rethink the crankset.
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Old 09-25-15, 11:12 AM
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You may find someone on here that can give you a more precise answer, but personally I find when I am mixing and matching components (especially from different eras) that it is trial and repeat until I get what I want...

I am running a Gossomer double crank, with late 80's Dura Ace FD intended for use with DT shifters, but I am using Tiagra brifters. This set-up actually worked first time with no issues - but I was prepared to try different chains and play with washer spacers on the BB.

One thing I can think of is if the Gossamer crank you are using may have excessive wear on the inside of the big ring - those 'helper' grooves - it could be causing it not to upshift.

Another thing is try setting the high side adjustment screw so the FD can go a little past where it needs to to help with the upshift?

Report back on your efforts please! Curious to see if you resolve it!

Andrew
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Old 09-25-15, 11:17 AM
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I think you are on the right path with trying a 9speed chain. I would try that first and report back. I would go to a 7s HG freewheel, if you haven't already, as it will likely play nicer with a 9s chain than, say, an old chunky suntour. Also, use a good quality chain like shimano.
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Old 09-25-15, 03:22 PM
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The freewheel is new and is a modern HG I believe. It is one of those mega gear models with the one large granny gear. I do not believe the chain wheel is worn. I did buy it used but it show very little wear. The original owner was ditching the triple in favor of a double. I am an old dog and really appreciate low gears while the original owner was a young buck anxious to melt those young knees.

I will look into ordering a 9 speed chain.
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Old 09-25-15, 05:01 PM
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9 sp chain.
Set the FD as high as you can,
without rubbing when the chain is on the inner ring.
Let the FD swing out a bit further;
you want speed on the shifts up in the front.

i'm just repeating the advice before.....

An Ironman is worth a little hassle to dial in.
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Old 09-25-15, 05:09 PM
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Yes Robbie they are worth the effort. My favorite ride is a Miami Vise 53cm with original wheels but I have put some vintage MB gearing on it for the hills around here. Old original turbo seat too. I wanted one with some more normal gearing for the flat lands and that is why I am working on this old red with white Ironman. If I happen onto another one I will probably own it too. They are fairly rare around here locally in the Nashville area. Both of mine have come from several miles away
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Old 09-25-15, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cyclotoine View Post
i think you are on the right path with trying a 9speed chain. I would try that first and report back. I would go to a 7s hg freewheel, if you haven't already, as it will likely play nicer with a 9s chain than, say, an old chunky suntour. Also, use a good quality chain like wippermann.
ftfy
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Old 09-25-15, 05:54 PM
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I'm trying to imagine anything gossamer on one of Caesar's centurions. Well maybe a strand from an old spider web what's been adorning his cairn for centuries. And that same centurion in the flesh and blood, moved forward a few centuries and climbing into the Gossamer Condor? Sorry. It would never leave the ground.

For a C & V bike. Well that's a little closer. At least we are talking decades, not millennium, but still ...

Ben
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Old 09-26-15, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 79pmooney View Post
I'm trying to imagine anything gossamer on one of Caesar's centurions. Well maybe a strand from an old spider web what's been adorning his cairn for centuries. And that same centurion in the flesh and blood, moved forward a few centuries and climbing into the Gossamer Condor? Sorry. It would never leave the ground.

For a C & V bike. Well that's a little closer. At least we are talking decades, not millennium, but still ...

Ben
Had to read it twice, but I got it.
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Old 09-26-15, 06:45 AM
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I did forget to mention that I do have the FD set high and well past the normally required over shift position. I am not sure that it is as high as you recommend but if it is not I will try that. I will also add that it will eventually shift but the pedal needs considerably more pressure than normal.
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Old 09-26-15, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
9 sp chain.
Set the FD as high as you can,
without rubbing when the chain is on the inner ring.
Let the FD swing out a bit further;
you want speed on the shifts up in the front.

i'm just repeating the advice before.....

An Ironman is worth a little hassle to dial in.
I think Robbie hit it. I would have guessed the FD is not set high enough. Also, I know this is basic, but are you using a triple FD? I know some doubles look like they will reach, but they don't. I've used Gossamer, TruVativ and Shimano triples on newer bikes. The hang up you're referring to did happen when the FD was too low. Also, I've found the hang up happened on the bike stand, but when riding, it seemed to be much better. One last consideration, try changing to the large front ring with the chain in the middle of the cassette. Cross chaining can contribute to the problem and shifting to the large ring while in the fast cassette gear can cause the shift to bog down unless you've got some serious momentum, but keep in mind a properly set FD will allow cross chaining without a problem and certainly will shift well while in the fast rear gear.
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Old 09-26-15, 01:57 PM
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Well I can't really add anything to help the OP solve his/her problem. I do, however, really like my FSA Gossamer crank and it works just fine...



As for using a nine speed chain on a seven speed sprocket - I think the OP is asking for trouble, but that is just an old man's opinion. As a retired industrial mechanic (aka millwright), I learned a long time ago, to use stuff that is designed to work together. A nine speed chain is not designed to function on a seven speed sprocket, which is, once again, my opinion.

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Old 09-27-15, 08:53 AM
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I want to thank all that have responded and it sure gives me some things to work on. For those of you that may have some interest in triples and their use I just found the following info.

https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/...h-sti-triples/

I have not yet finished all the articles responses but I have found it very informative. It looks as though the front crank/FD/shifter combo may not even be compatable. I have not yet given up yet though.
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Old 09-27-15, 09:16 AM
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Is the crank sitting too far from the frame? How much clearance do you have between the small chainring and the frame? The crank sitting out too far will cause the FD to be at the end of it's travel before it can effectively shift the chain to the big ring. A triple crank/triple FD/friction shifter should not pose a compatibility problem.
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Old 09-27-15, 09:52 AM
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The FD is no way near the end of the outside adjustment. I am fairly certain that the crankset is on the correct BB to get appropriate chain ring alignment.

I just came from the shop and found that I could increase the height of the FD. I actually increased it about 1/4". I put the chain in the center cog to minimize the chain clearance to the bottom of the FD and since I never cross chain anyway it is a non issue. The thing now seems to shift just fine so I believe the problem is fixed without even changing chains. I seldom find the need for the big ring anyway and mostly ride in the middle ring and sometimes in the small ring if I climb or need really low speed for some reason. The big ring is only used with strong tail wind and long down hills. I am not a particularly fast or strong rider and I don't mash. I tend to keep my cadence in the 80 to 90 range.

Thanks to all again for the help

I will add to this discussion that I also have a Rossin frame that has a 9 speed cassette and a Campy Veloce triple. I am using old DT friction shifters on it and it has had no problems shifting.
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Old 09-28-15, 01:08 AM
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On a Centurion?

Keep it legit. Find a Sugino AT triple crankset. You can usually find them for very little because people don't realize how brilliant these cranksets were. If you can't find one for a good price give me a PM. I've got two essentially new 175mm cranksets with the Suntour/Sugino BBs. If you don't like the then fashionable "half step" gearing update the rings with modern ramped/pinned.

These came on Cannondale ST800s and were every bit as good of kit as the Nitto seatposts, Suntour Superbe Pro derailleurs (triple/long cage no less), Nitto stems, and Brooks/Ideale saddles. However, they were only 170mm and 175mm which is too short for me, so off they come.
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Old 09-30-15, 03:53 AM
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Sugino seemed to really nail it on many cranksets, from the older school to the smooth polished models that were 10 years ahead of Shimano in looks.
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