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Old 10-14-17, 07:38 PM   #126
diomekes
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Yup. I believe I have one of these covers laying around if someone really really wants one.
I don't know if I would say I really really want it, but I would use it if I had it.

I actually already made a cover for mine (well, I drew the pattern and my wife did the sewing), since I commute with my Miami Vice and had to ride in the rain once and the suede saddle was soaked. A lycra saddle would probably be better for the wet than the fabric mine is made out of...
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Old 10-14-17, 09:42 PM   #127
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Lycra saddles can be very comfy. Two of my bikes, including the Ironman, have Lycra fabric over foam saddles -- not just Lycra/foam add-on covers. The Ironman came from the seller with an old Terry Georgena saddle, which resembles a Selle Turbo with a shorter nose.

It's so effective I don't really need padded shorts. In fact, I get more chafing wearing padded shorts with the Lycra/foam saddles. I may try some unpadded tri shorts for the Ironman bike. And I just wear wicking fabric boxer/briefs under my baggy shorts on the hybrid with Lycra/foam saddle.

But it's not a perfect solution. The Lycra/foam saddles get soggy with sweat -- exactly like padded shorts would. And unlike shorts you can't toss 'em in the washer. So I use fabric cleaner/freshener once in awhile on the saddles.

And if you get caught in the rain on a Lycra/foam saddle, it's like sitting in a puddle.

But for mostly dry climates, yup, the Lycra/foam saddles are very comfy. And most seem to be inexpensive enough to replace every year or so. Although Serfas is among the very few suppliers of Lycra/foam saddles, and most are of the heavily padded comfort variety.
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Old 10-14-17, 09:49 PM   #128
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Regarding my August post, I've since replaced the original Suntour 42T chainring with a 39T Vuelta SE Plus. Works fine, although I had to make several adjustments.

The bigger drop from 52/39 and vice versa resulted in lots of chain drops. So I had to tweak the front derailleur very carefully to get smooth shifting without dropping the chain. This is crucial to me because I rely on the front derailleur shifts for our roller coaster routes.

And I tried combinations of the original 52/42 chainring with the SunRace 13-25 freewheel, which worked well. I really liked the spacing.

But I hated the spacing with the 52/39 chainring combo and SunRace 13-25 freewheel. Too much double shifting was needed to find the sweet spot. On climbs it was costing me momentum, fiddling around with shifting both levers.

So I switched back to the original Suntour 13-24 freewheel with the 52/39 chainring combo. Not quite as much oomph for steep climbs with dead legs, but the spacing is very good. And the 39/24 combo has been fine for our local hills as long as my legs are fresh.

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Has anyone replaced the inner chain ring from the usual 42T to something smaller? I'm not sure whether it's feasible or cost effective compared with a compact crankset.

I've been trying for almost three months, with lots of HIIT and hill climbs in training, but just can't get along with the stock 42T front and 24 rear cog. Saturday's hilly ride was pretty close to the last straw. I was exhausted by the end of a 64 mile ride with about 2,600 feet of climbing and could barely mash my way up -- walking would have been faster. Not a huge climb for some folks but it's my limit.

I get along much better with the 30/40/50 triple and 13-28 on my Univega, even though the bike is heavier than the Ironman. I feel energized rather than wiped out after a long ride on the same route.

I did get a 13-25 SunRace freewheel, but I doubt there will be a huge difference for climbing. I could try a 28T maximum freewheel, but I'd need to give up indexed shifting.

Seems like changing the smaller chain ring would be the best solution.
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Old 12-05-17, 03:10 PM   #129
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Thought I would toss up some info here- probably not useful to most, but perhaps helpful to someone down the line while googling.

Late 80s- largest size frame(63/64cm depending on how its measured) weights are...

FRAME- 2210g 4.88#
FORK- 790g 1.74#

So 3000g total for frame and fork. Thats 6.61# for those who dont speak metric.
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Old 12-05-17, 06:00 PM   #130
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Less than a Soma Stanyan, I think.
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Old 12-06-17, 10:04 AM   #131
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Less than a Soma Stanyan, I think.
For sure less than a Stanyan. The Stanyan is listed at 4.7# for a 52cm frame. So add 11cm to that and only 2.88oz and you have the Ironman frame.
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Old 12-07-17, 05:04 PM   #132
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For sure less than a Stanyan. The Stanyan is listed at 4.7# for a 52cm frame. So add 11cm to that and only 2.88oz and you have the Ironman frame.
Somewhere in the forums, and the photos have probably disappeared, there is a direct comparison of a Centurion Semi-Pro with a Stanyan. Very close in appearance and features. I gave the nod to the Semi-Pro, for the quill stem...
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Old 01-03-18, 07:25 PM   #133
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My 87 Miami Vice biopace chainrings are kinda wobbling. Is that a chainring or crankarm problem? How do I fix it?
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Old 01-04-18, 04:18 PM   #134
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My 87 Miami Vice biopace chainrings are kinda wobbling. Is that a chainring or crankarm problem? How do I fix it?
1-chainring (most fragile, maybe a loose bolt)
2-bottom bracket (loose crank)
3-crank arms (rarely damaged)

It might just be you.
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Old 01-04-18, 08:26 PM   #135
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My 85 Ironman has a suntour sprint crankset. Original owner says he bought it this way. Maybe it was replaced in the bike shop? It's weird because the chainrings are a similar dark grey to pictures of the stock chainrings I've seen on the internet. SN is N5E512.

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Old 01-05-18, 04:00 PM   #136
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Definitely not OEM on the Ironman. Centurion Facet is the only model I know of that had Sprint parts, and I'm not even sure about that.
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