Alternate, period correct pedals?
#1
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Alternate, period correct pedals?
I built up this bike with mostly 80s Campagnolo Super Record. I used the Campy pedals, probably from the 70s on the bike. My foot is just too big. What it a period current (80s) pedal that will look good with this bike and allow for a larger foot?
I have a size 10 foot, which isn't particularly large, but darn it if these pedals feel like they were made for a child. Please advise.
thanks.
I have a size 10 foot, which isn't particularly large, but darn it if these pedals feel like they were made for a child. Please advise.
thanks.
#2
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i find the strap loop on the outer part of the cage to be a little uncomfortable, but these don't have them.
you may like the offerings from kkt (japanese) from the era:
1. pro ace
2. top run
3. pro vic ii
they're usually easy to find. the 'pro ace' is the record knock off, but i find the 'top run' pedal a lot more comfortable, although it's not as cool looking. the later, '80s versions of the 'pro vic ii' are also more comfortable than their earlier '70s models.
you may like the offerings from kkt (japanese) from the era:
1. pro ace
2. top run
3. pro vic ii
they're usually easy to find. the 'pro ace' is the record knock off, but i find the 'top run' pedal a lot more comfortable, although it's not as cool looking. the later, '80s versions of the 'pro vic ii' are also more comfortable than their earlier '70s models.
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Hmmm,
I rode campy pedals for a long time.
Somewhere I've misplaced my old cleated leather road shoes, but I think they were significantly narrower than wearing casual shoes, so that may be a difference. I always had to kind of push my shoes to the outside when using the pedals.
How important is "authenticity"?
I've moved to clipless pedals on just about all of my bikes, and am not looking back. I'm using SPD pedals with the recessed cleats.
It looks like the LOOK pedals were invented around 1984... perhaps that would be "authentic" enough.
I rode campy pedals for a long time.
Somewhere I've misplaced my old cleated leather road shoes, but I think they were significantly narrower than wearing casual shoes, so that may be a difference. I always had to kind of push my shoes to the outside when using the pedals.
How important is "authenticity"?
I've moved to clipless pedals on just about all of my bikes, and am not looking back. I'm using SPD pedals with the recessed cleats.
It looks like the LOOK pedals were invented around 1984... perhaps that would be "authentic" enough.
#5
Senior Member
Try a different toe clip. Everyone used Christophe steel clips for racing back then, regardless of what came on the bike. (and Binda straps) They are still sold by Zefal. For size 10 you should go with large. (BTW, I have probably ~ 100k miles in pedals just like that with 12D feet) Anything else from that period will be about the same size unless you put on lyotard platforms or something.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
#6
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How about track pedals from the same vintage? No outer quill.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#7
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Yeah, track pedals were pretty popular for road bikes and would be period correct.
BTW, almost nobody would have put Japanese pedals on an all campy bike. Maybe Suntour Superbe. Dura Ace was mediocre at best until the third generation stuff came out in the mid 80s.
BTW, almost nobody would have put Japanese pedals on an all campy bike. Maybe Suntour Superbe. Dura Ace was mediocre at best until the third generation stuff came out in the mid 80s.
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Try a different toe clip. Everyone used Christophe steel clips for racing back then, regardless of what came on the bike. (and Binda straps) They are still sold by Zefal. For size 10 you should go with large. (BTW, I have probably ~ 100k miles in pedals just like that with 12D feet) Anything else from that period will be about the same size unless you put on lyotard platforms or something.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
#9
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I'd just put some MKS platform pedals on it and forget about it.
#10
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Yes, that's what we'd do BITD for people with wide feet. Campy track pedals are usually pretty pricey, but the MKS "Sylvan" is a good copy, affordable, and still in production:

If you want something a little wider, the MKS "Touring" version is worth considering:

If you want something a little wider, the MKS "Touring" version is worth considering:

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#13
Cyclist
I wear around a 9-9.5 and find I need Large size MKS toe clips...so try some L or XL toe clips first.
#14
Senior Member
OP, what is the problem? Is the pedal too short for your shoe, or is it too narrow? Have you tried running with toe straps? Does the "point" on the outer end dig you shoe?
#15
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
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If you think that track pedals would work better, realize that most track pedals are actually much narrower than most quill pedals as it loses the outer edges of the cage that goes around the outer end of the pedal., You can adjust your strap to go wider/pst the pedal outer edges, but your total pedal platform width will usually be narrower than what you get from most regular quills, so foot support from the bottom is not improved. I think the better solution will be Look clipless pedals with the proper shoes that have enough stiffness on them or either period platform or wider rat traps....
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+1
My Suntour GPX pedals have L Christophe clips, and generic straps.
My Shimano 600 pedals have L Shimano steel clips, and generic straps.
MKS Sylvan are the best I've ridden since Campy Record track pedals.
I wear a 10 shoe, works well with those.
My Suntour GPX pedals have L Christophe clips, and generic straps.
My Shimano 600 pedals have L Shimano steel clips, and generic straps.
MKS Sylvan are the best I've ridden since Campy Record track pedals.
I wear a 10 shoe, works well with those.
Try a different toe clip. Everyone used Christophe steel clips for racing back then, regardless of what came on the bike. (and Binda straps) They are still sold by Zefal. For size 10 you should go with large. (BTW, I have probably ~ 100k miles in pedals just like that with 12D feet) Anything else from that period will be about the same size unless you put on lyotard platforms or something.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
Also, try a different shoe. Anybody who had this bike back in the day would have been riding it with slotted cleats. At a minimum, get some sort of modern touring shoe with a stiff sole.
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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 10-26-15 at 05:37 AM.
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As far as toeclips, I started using plastic clips. Not necessarily "vintage", but they were a lot less damaging to my shoes. They do come in different sizes and shapes. Most of my clips also had two strap loops which was a bit wider, although I don't know if it really made a big difference.
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