Ed.

I've touted it as an effective item that facilitates rust removal, and does so with minimal hazards. I offer:



Not obvious I grant you, but the rust on the blades was crusty, three dimensional.

After a 12-hour soak, with no effort by me other than to put the item in the bath, and then remove it from the bath



Not the most perfect 'before and after' photos, but I think one can see the general improvement. No harm to paint, no harm to rubber handles, no wire brushing, sandpapering, and I then just poured the Evap-o-Rust back into its container until I need it again.

seedsbelize 

I also use it and like it. The problem comes when trying to soak top tube cable guides. I've thought about wrapping plastic around the tube but haven't tried it yet.

gaucho777 

I also like that it's non-toxic. I prefer the effectiveness of oxalic acid, but not by a wide margin. The one and only time I used Evapo-Rust, I bought some rubber plugs for the bottom bracket, and headtube openings, plugged the drain holes in the stays with tape, and filled the frame from the seat tube. Worked great and less of a hassle than filling a big kiddie pool of toxic oxalic acid, which then leaked slightly and bleach-stained my garage floor.

Make a trough?

oddjob2

Wallpaper tray or gutter scrap with end caps.

justin10054

I use electrolysis for removing rust. All you need is a battery charger, a bucket of water, a sacrificial piece of steel, and some washing soda (sodium carbonate). It works really well for rusty items, but I wouldn't recommend it for bike frames since the item has to be fully submerged in the solution.

BigChief 

I can recommend it for lightly rusted small items that can fit in a jar. It does take a couple days of soaking to be effective. Some things come out better than others. I had spectacular results soaking this shifter for two days.

jimmuller 

How is it on aluminum, or if you prefer, aluminiuminium? I have a few items which seem to have aluminum bits attached, and I've read in C&V that OA will pit them.

jonwvara 

In my experience, OA will destroy aluminum. That's one of the great things about Evaporust--you can soak derailleurs, wheel rims with steel eyelet, and other items that combine aluminum and steel parts that can't be separated easily.

I wish I could justify buying enough of the stuff to fill a tank so I could soak frames in it.

iab

Soak rags.

Wrap rags around frame.

And Bob's yer uncle.

jonwvara 

I tried that once, with plastic film over the rags. It had very little effect. Not sure why.

jet sanchEz

I used it on some chrome lugs and it left a white film on the paint, is there a way to get rid of this white film?

allend

I've used paper towel soaked with EvapoRust, covered with Saran Wrap and alternating "corners" immersed in a container. I did this for a week to my '68 Claud and unfortunately didn't check tubes for that time. It did the job without affecting paint but unfortunately did wreak havoc with decals especially down tube CB decal. Subsequenly replaced.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/767624...7648723035788/

PS: Decal havoc probably a function of quality of clear coat.

okane

I thought that OA and Evaporust would be good for cleaning small parts like nuts, bolts, etc., but after soaking both products removed a lot of rust but left some type of residue that had to be wire brushed off. The cleanup was very time consuming and left me wondering if these products, especially evaporust was worth the effort.

I certainly agree with your comment that some things come out better than others. I never got results even close to your photos even after a lot of work after the soaking.

Is there some type of solvent that will remove this residue after soaking?

okane

Thanks....figured there was something I was missing....or not missing....I was using too much OA. Will try your secret sauce baking soda slurry and WD 40 rinse. Any suggestions about the using Evaporust?

mstateglfr 

Qtip soaked in evaporust. Stick it in the cable guide and wrap with saran. May take a couple of applications of 3 hours each, depending on severity of the rust.

Velognome 

Evaporust requires enough solution dissolve/free up (?) the iron oxide, the soaking rags works better with OA then Evaporust. The gutter with end caps or a long plastic tray works better, you need a gallon or so for any real rust removal and large items.

jonwvara 

That's pretty much what I thought, but I couldn't figure out how to say it without bringing in electrons and ions and stuff, about which I know almost nothing.

BigChief 

I didn't notice any residue on any of the small parts I treated. I didn't let it dry on though. I took it out of the jar and washed it with Dawn dish soap right away before it dried. Maybe that's the reason.

jonwvara 

I've never hadany residue with Evaporust, either--everything has always come out as clean as a whistle. It's fascinating how different people can use the same method and get such different results. Perhaps it has to do whether there's some sort of coating or film on the untreated part? Could it be caused by failure to wash off the Evaporust itself as soon as the treated item comes out of the bath? It beats me.