gugie 

I think you've got your's over at Ed's, right? My Imron with 2 panels + decals and clear coat was $750 all in.

If you want it to look fantastic, and you're willing to spend the money, it's the way to go.

If you want it to look good, possibly really good, go with powder coat. At Brooker in Portland, one color is $110. You can get reproduction stick on decals from VeloCal for around $40-$50.

gugie 

Details!

OldsCOOL

Being a Cannondale aluminum with no lugs made it an easy job of handsanding to bare metal. I didnt want any paint left on it. First grit was 120 for paint removal, 220 to remove sanding scratches, then 400 as the finisher before primer. I applied 2 coats primer, sanded with 400 and began to finish coat with a black with gold metallic lacquer base paint. Probably 4-5 coats and then began to hand rub with a cleaner/compound to bring out the gloss.

If it was traditional steel with lugs, this would have been media blasted to remove old paint.

CliffordK

Is that including the cost of the frame? $50 frame + $550 paint & decals?

I try to have somewhat nice stuff, but my bikes are transportation bikes, and they show, but they serve my needs. My winter bike is built around a used $100 Litespeed Titanium frame, no paint.

Anyway, I'd have troubles justifying paying over $100 to paint most of my bikes/frames. I will probably repaint my old Colnago Super sometime, but want to make sure I'm ready to do a top tier job. Maybe a few practice bikes before that one.

Miele Man

I've painted a number of bicycle frames after stripping them to the bare metal and then priming them. i use rattle can spray paints.

Here's my Gold MIELE Columbus SL that I converted to a single speed.

IMG_2704 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Here's my Tange 5 MIELE painted metallic blue with rattle can paint from Canadian Tire Automotive paint aisle.

MIELE Uno Repainted Blue Metallic by Miele Man, on Flickr

MIELE Uno Repainted #1 by Miele Man, on Flickr

MIELE Uno Repainted #2b by Miele Man, on Flickr

A Tange Infinity MIELE with an Italian tri-Colour paint job to match the Campagnolo components.

Miele Road Racing Bicycle = 27 Gears Drivetrain Side by Miele Man, on Flickr

The trick to a great rattle can paint job is to prep the frame well, wash it with TSP and rinse well with very hot water, let dry and then apply the primer in thin coats. Apply the paint in thin coats too. Start spraying BEFORE you get to the frame and continue spraying PAST the frame and keep the can moving. Make haste SLOWLY! if you get a run STOP clean it up and let the paint dry. then feather the area and paint again.

Cheers

PaintItCeleste

For the folks advocating rattle can paint jobs, and specifically @Miele Man, can you provide some close-up photos of the frame after your paint job or even better, after some time spent on the bike? Or comments? These paint jobs look great but I suspect this is in part due to the perspective of the images we are seeing (standing back a bit). I have spray painted a few frames myself and while things always look nice when I finish, the moment I begin putting the components back on the frame, the metal clamps and so forth, cut right through the paint. I am careful to do proper prep work, stripping the frame, primer, light, repeated applications, proper dry time between coats and in finishing. I am consciences of the conditions whilst painting (humidity, temp, etc.) I have never done this box heat-curing method mentioned earlier in this thread (have to try that). I have tried all sorts of different paint types including the auto paint (but not the ultra-tough engine block stuff because of the limited colors). I still haven't been able to complete a project that comes close to the quality and durability of a pro paint job. Am I to understand that with the proper process, a rattle can job can approach (or equal) the quality of a professional job (by professional, I mean, using whatever the industry paint is, gun application, cured in the "special room" etc.) Am I missing something?

Miele Man

A rattle can spray paint job can look very good. However I do NOT expect my rattle can paint jobs to be as durable as a professional baked on finish. I rattle can spray paint my frames because it's a LOT LESS EXPENSIVE And i get the exact colour(s) I want.

You also need to give ANY paint finish time to cure before adding components and that curing time can be a week or more for the paint to fully cure and harden. "Make haste SLOWLY!" "Haste makes waste" are 2 adages VERY applicable to spray painting.

Cheers

ppg677

Ha. Well I paid $400 for the bike but it included a full Super Record groupset (including pedals, Super Record seatpost, etc). So if I sell the Super Record groupset (which I'm considering), I figure yeah, the frame probably cost $50 :-)

Where did you find a Litespeed Ti frame for $100?!

Well I struggle to justify it too since my pragmatic side of my brain is shouting at my vanity side of my brain :-). But ultimately I opted to splurge for a top tier job simply "just because". But you guys are definitely talking me into trying rattlecan for my next job.

Shp4man

Just FYI, a gallon of two part professional automotive paint is like $300+. It's wayy more durable than spray paint of course.

JohnDThompson 

That that only begins to cover the cost of a "real" paint job. Figure in cost of a paint booth, compressor, and spray gun and perhaps a drying oven at a minimum. Good paint jobs are expensive for a reason.

CliffordK

It was one of those drop everything and run deals on Craigslist. No fork. I usually don't bargain about the price when I find something I like.

It is a 26" frame, but fit my 700c wheels fairly well, albeit a bit extra lateral clearance for tires. A couple of issues such as the crankset I had selected for the bike hit the chainstays, and the big-ring clearance to the chainstay is also a bit narrow (I'll probably try to dimple the frame sometime).

When one counts the thinners, a gallon of paint should be plenty for several frames. I doubt one would use up a pint.

nlerner

Here's a testament to the fragility of spray can jobs: Note the bottom head tube lug; I didn't wait long enough for it all to cure:

OldsCOOL

Being familiar with lacquer, it's beauty and shortcomings made it a first choice. Curing is essential. When the odors of the paint ceases you can have a good idea when to proceed with reassembly. Good point.

Durability for me wasnt an issue because the bike is indoors when not on the open road. However, for a lugged beauty, Imron or powder coat.

Reynolds 

I've rattle can painted some steel frames myself and results weren't as good as I expected. Not the finish, but the adherence was bad. Some places rusted, at others the paint came off easily. What is a good method to ensure paint (primer) adherence to steel?

OldsCOOL

Just a comment on volume of paint, when trying to cover a series of small tubes (such as a bike is) a lot more passes and overspray is a factor. A pint and when adding accelerators, hardener and thinner should do the trick.

OldsCOOL

Start with a thorough sanding of all surfaces being careful to cover every little bit even into crevices and folds of the frame. Dont sand any area that hasnt be absolutely degreased and wax removed.

headset

Sandblasting then immediately into the paint booth for wipe down with degreaser/dewaxer. Can't touch the frame with bare hands, no matter how clean, as the oils in your skin will affect adhesion. Use a quality, automotive grade acid etch primer followed by fill-primer coats. Wet sand, then color, wet sand, then clear coats with a final cutting and buffing afterward.

Reynolds 

Thanks, I sanded the frames thoroughly, then used paint thinner as a degreaser. I don't like sandblasting as it's a bit aggresive, and I've seen items to rust in the time between sandblasting and painting. What degreaser would you recommend?

headset

I chemically strip the frame and then lightly sandblast to provide sufficient tooth for primer adhesion. This avoids aggressive blasting to remove the paint. It also avoids any paint compatibility issues as one paint system is used from primer to clear coat. True, once the frame is sandblasted primer has to go on immediately. I've had good luck with POR-15 degreaser, but I've only used it on bare steal.

squirtdad

I have never paid to have a frame painted.....but did two myself, one rattle can and one using automative paints and Pre-Val sprayers (little dohickey you pour paint in and then it is a rattle can)

First cost $40 or so for a good mask with carbon filters.

Rattle can was more than I thought it would be: Stripper, primer, color, clear. I used a lot of paint because i put lots of thin coats on. Finish was good. maybe $80

Automotive came out way better than rattle can: 2 type of primer (acid etch for first coat, sandable after that), color, thinner, catalyzed clear, supplies. maybe $150?

so $270 to $300 for two bikes.

Auto paint is totally superior to rattle can in terms of durability. No question.

So in perspective powder coat or professional paint doesnt seem that expensive to me

OldsCOOL

UDefinately. Catalyzed hardner makes the difference.

Jimsl78

I had this done by a professional, the frame was chemically stripped, the bottom bracket was chased and faced, epoxy primed, sanding and filling of pitts, two color coats, decals applied, and the pantographing filled in a second color, then two coats of clear, sanded over the decals and then 2 final coats over the decals Cost 700 bucks.

Hanson1

I used to do powder coating and sandblasting for a living, around Chicago at least it would cost about $125 max to get any frame stripped down to the bone, and about the same price to have it painted as long as it isn't two tone/rare color. Sandblasting is the best way to preserve metal because any rust or corrosion you can't see with the naked eye is eliminated and using specific media for blasting only eliminates paint without harming the metal itself. Powder coating also is best because it's statically bound to the metal and melts into every crevice with no air gaps that would bubble later or allow contaminants to creep in over time. Powder coating is thinner and usually 4-10x more durable with way more finishes to choose from. Just one man's opinion. Good luck to all

Jimsl78

I believe there are times when sand / media blasting is a good choice, and other times when chemical stripping is best.
I have used both methods in restoration work on classic cars. Blasting is good and is best for powder coating, the powder coated finish is tough but has limitations, especially when you want fine details. A skilled painter will to the metal prep. properly and there will not be any future problems with rust or contaminants.

Hanson1

Yeah, I know what you mean. I wasn't into biking at the time when I painted but could charge $250-350 all day long and have people interested. Being around Chicago it was mostly doing either flat black finishes or clear coating freshly blasted frames which looked really cool too. I've never chemically stripped a frame but am getting ready to start researching, since the frame I want to do is scuffed up and not very valuable. Any tips?