Removing a headbadge?
 

Anyone have experience with removingbthen re-installing a headache? I see what appears to be a rivet. What did you use for re-installation?
Thanks!

Hello Tandem Tom,

I have found that the Campagnolo headcup removal tool is handy and quick for knocking off the backside of headplate rivets. Alternately, a half-round bastard file can do the job fairly fast. You of course want to have the headcups out first. The plates can be refastened with a pop rivet tool. It is often necessary to file the backside or the finished rivet so as to clear the steerer.

Re-installing a headache? Dontcha just hate autospell?

Depends on the type of rivet. Some used solid. Some used tubular rivets. But for replacement I would probably source some drive screws, like this. ;

Drive Screws | Rivets In Stock - Rivets & Rivet Tools

I bought some brass ones off ebay, if that color is preferable. Not silly cheap to buy just a few, but they do the job.

If an alloy pop type rivet, use a knife tip, twisting it back and forth. You will see the alloy peeling off. Sooner or late, and likely sooner, the rivet will free up and you can gently remove the headbadge. Or...

If not a pop rivet style, I remove the fork and push the rivet out from the inside of the steering tube. You will have to figure out which tool(s) to use to achieve this. For me, it is a long screwdriver, a sturdy one, and a bit of leverage. You might even offer a side tap or two to the rivet end that is sticking out of the inside of the head tube...

http://3.imimg.com/data3/JO/JA/MY-50...ts-500x500.jpg

http://3.imimg.com/data3/NC/AN/MY-50...74-500x500.jpg

For installation, get a proper pop rivet and rivet installer. For the other kind, get a screw rivet and tap it into place. I am lucky enough to have a dozen, or so, of those rivets and even the correct drill bit size to make the rivets fit properly.

You can remove typical pop rivets pretty easily with a small drill bit. Select a bit slightly larger than the round center of rivet. Dip tip of drill bit in a little oil. Use medium speed & low force. Rivet gone. Done deal. Need to borrow a pop rivet tool to re-install.

I've just drilled them out with a small drill bit as [MENTION=396076]ramzilla[/MENTION] has described. You may need to use a stiff scraper to carefully pry them off after the rivet is gone as well. I use RTV silicone to glue them back in place when I'm finished.

I drill out the original rivets, as outlined above, and then either pop rivet or screw the badge back in place.

You have to be pretty careful with those drive screws. Unlike a pop rivet, you are stuck with the full length, so make sure you order short enough that they don't encounter your steerer. Also, you need the hole snug enough to hold the screw, but if it's too small, it won't take much of a blow to deform your head tube. The one time I tried them I could see it going south, so I just used silicone on the badge and put brass escutcheon pins where the rivets go and bent them over.

Very good point. If you're going to use drive screws, you need the EXACT size required by the hole. Or size the hole appropriately.

I ordered mine from McMaster Carr and drilled the hole specified. But that tubing is thin and it doesn't take much to deform it, especially when the force is all directed into a single small point. I realized in time that I was going to make a mess of it and bailed.

Of course it's possible I did something wrong, but I believe the point is still a valid one.

I just did this with my Raleigh Twenty powder coat. I used a small straight blade screwdriver to knock the inside of the rivets off (inside head tube). Then used a tiny nail to make a divot in the center of the rivet, then drilled the rivets out.
[MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] kindly provided me with the screw type rivets and I tapped those on, with no need to file off on the inside. Worked great.

I sheared off the inside end of the rivets with a cheap curved chisel, and carefully ground off the rest with a Dremel. Got some aluminum industrial placard rivets offa eBay, like you'd use for attaching the informational badges on large electric motors and such, tapped them in gently with a hammer, and sheared them off inside and mushroomed them a bit with the curved chisel.