My Kestrel 200 SCI - Can you tell me a little about it?
03-29-16, 05:06 PM
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I wanted to share some updated pics of my bike. Since this thread I've added dura-ace 9000 front and rear derailleurs, ultregra 6800 crankset with a bb-9000, ultegra 6800 brakes, and a ultegra 6800 11-speed cassette. I figured this was a good investment that I could swap onto a newer frame when the time comes.
I'll probably be listing the old dura-ace 7700 groupset - LMK if interested.
I'll probably be listing the old dura-ace 7700 groupset - LMK if interested.
It looks amazing! you've done a great job!
I actually just got myself a 200sci too.
I am interested in your old Dura-ace group set, can you tell me more info?
Kev
04-04-16, 08:04 AM
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Beaut Kestrel!
Picked up mine for $350ish on CL last summer. Dura ace, too.
Plan on swapping out the black stem for a silver Thomson X2 stem here in a few weeks. I am a bit apprehensive to take off the reflective tape, as I suspect it is hiding missing paint.
I can't say I would sell this bike for well more than I paid for it. Something about a man's first road bike
Picked up mine for $350ish on CL last summer. Dura ace, too.
Plan on swapping out the black stem for a silver Thomson X2 stem here in a few weeks. I am a bit apprehensive to take off the reflective tape, as I suspect it is hiding missing paint.
I can't say I would sell this bike for well more than I paid for it. Something about a man's first road bike
04-18-16, 09:12 PM
#28
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Beaut Kestrel!
Picked up mine for $350ish on CL last summer. Dura ace, too.
Plan on swapping out the black stem for a silver Thomson X2 stem here in a few weeks. I am a bit apprehensive to take off the reflective tape, as I suspect it is hiding missing paint.
I can't say I would sell this bike for well more than I paid for it. Something about a man's first road bike
Picked up mine for $350ish on CL last summer. Dura ace, too.
Plan on swapping out the black stem for a silver Thomson X2 stem here in a few weeks. I am a bit apprehensive to take off the reflective tape, as I suspect it is hiding missing paint.
I can't say I would sell this bike for well more than I paid for it. Something about a man's first road bike
You don't think there is any risk that it could crack and result in injury to me just because its 16 year old do you?
04-18-16, 09:20 PM
#29
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Ride it and enjoy life!
07-08-16, 09:02 AM
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Bumping this old thread as I've had a "base" Kestrel 200SCi since new circa 1994. The base model had an alloy fork instead of carbon with 7-speed 105 drivetrain. I've acquired most everything I need to upgrade to a clear-coated EMS carbon fork and modern stem. I'm getting older and need to make the geometry a little more comfortable.
To save me from checking, does anyone know if this is a 126 or 130mm rear drop-out? I'd like to go 8-speed but don't want to do it the "convoluted" way with a 9-speed cassette.
To save me from checking, does anyone know if this is a 126 or 130mm rear drop-out? I'd like to go 8-speed but don't want to do it the "convoluted" way with a 9-speed cassette.
07-28-16, 08:44 PM
#31
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Bumping this old thread as I've had a "base" Kestrel 200SCi since new circa 1994. The base model had an alloy fork instead of carbon with 7-speed 105 drivetrain. I've acquired most everything I need to upgrade to a clear-coated EMS carbon fork and modern stem. I'm getting older and need to make the geometry a little more comfortable.
To save me from checking, does anyone know if this is a 126 or 130mm rear drop-out? I'd like to go 8-speed but don't want to do it the "convoluted" way with a 9-speed cassette.
To save me from checking, does anyone know if this is a 126 or 130mm rear drop-out? I'd like to go 8-speed but don't want to do it the "convoluted" way with a 9-speed cassette.
I am thinking of upgrading my stem and headset to the Ritchey Carbon Fork "1 threadless.
My old threaded headset has got sticky. It sticks/snaps into position when straight and takes just a tad of effort to turn, enough that its annoying and maybe a bit dangerous. Someone told me that the bearings are just too old and need a new headset given its 18yrs old..
I am thinking of getting a 1" threadless Ritchey fork and headset however I'm not sure I like a black fork on a white frame. This guy did it: Kestrel 200sc retro mod build - Pedal Room
He used this fork: Wiggle | Ritchey Comp Carbon Road Fork | Forks
Do you think just replacing the headset using a Richey Pro Logic Threaded would do the trick? Seems like a pretty inexpensive fix.
Ritchey Pro Logic Threaded Headset | Chain Reaction Cycles
With that...Thanks!
07-29-16, 09:59 AM
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I have a similar plan and have already gathered everything I need, including...
Kestrel EMS Pro 1" threadless fork
Thomson 42mm height 1" to 1 1/8" shim (p/n SM-A002)
1" diameter spacer (I've got a couple of various heights)
1" Aheadset headset (p/n HS0117)
Hope to finally be getting around to this soon, but since I will also be changing to brifters I wanted to get everything done at once.
Kestrel EMS Pro 1" threadless fork
Thomson 42mm height 1" to 1 1/8" shim (p/n SM-A002)
1" diameter spacer (I've got a couple of various heights)
1" Aheadset headset (p/n HS0117)
Hope to finally be getting around to this soon, but since I will also be changing to brifters I wanted to get everything done at once.
07-29-16, 10:03 AM
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Answering my own question, indeed my frame is 126mm. Given that, it would seem I should stay 7-speed, yes?
07-29-16, 10:57 AM
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yes
07-29-16, 05:51 PM
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You can go bigger, but there's a real issue there because of the thickness of the RD hanger, and the fact that it's bonded in, i.e. not replaceable. Mess it up and you're done. I went 2x8 on an earlier frame, and had a lot more finagling back there that I really did not want to do, and sort of wish I hadn't. It's fairly easy to strip the threads in the RD hanger, as well. I got one for free that had a stripped RD hanger, and a Drop Out Saver worked, but really impaired the clearance for an 8/9/10 rear hub. I'd do what clubman says, stay with 7sp.
07-29-16, 08:19 PM
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Okay, that's what I'll do. Of course I had already gotten ahead of myself and bought some 8-speed brifters. I could re-sell them easily enough and pick up a 7-speed setup. Or should I just use them? I just don't want to have to worry about throwing a chain if I click for the non-existent 8th gear.
On a related note, I have a spare 130mm Ultegra rear hub that I was planning to build into a wheel. I know I can't use it as is, but it appears to me like it has a ~5mm spacer in there. Could I take that out and use it? I can post a pic if needed.
On a related note, I have a spare 130mm Ultegra rear hub that I was planning to build into a wheel. I know I can't use it as is, but it appears to me like it has a ~5mm spacer in there. Could I take that out and use it? I can post a pic if needed.
07-30-16, 10:34 AM
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Set your RD and FD right, and use the 8'sp brifters on 7, you'll be fine. I generally set the extra "click" on the small cog end of the line, because when in those gears, you're not worried about falling back on a hill.
You could probably use that wheel, but my experience is that those wheels have very little clearance in the rear of the Kestrel frame.
That being said, I've done it. It worked. The small-cog end had very little clearance, but a 9-sp Ultegra with STI's worked fine. I just wasn't real wild about it, knowing there was 4mm more pressure against the RD hangar than intended. The guy who bought the bike is still riding it all over the place.
You could probably use that wheel, but my experience is that those wheels have very little clearance in the rear of the Kestrel frame.
That being said, I've done it. It worked. The small-cog end had very little clearance, but a 9-sp Ultegra with STI's worked fine. I just wasn't real wild about it, knowing there was 4mm more pressure against the RD hangar than intended. The guy who bought the bike is still riding it all over the place.
07-31-16, 10:15 AM
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For some reason I'm not able to "Go Advanced" and post a reply, so just doing a quick reply (which doesn't allow quoting or attachments).
Any way, I've started a new thread here specific to the hub question...
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...0mm-126mm.html
Thanks for the input.
Any way, I've started a new thread here specific to the hub question...
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...0mm-126mm.html
Thanks for the input.
09-30-16, 09:34 PM
#39
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Any idea if this guy might have used a 1" threaded to threadless adapter then just attached a 1-1/8 shim + threadless Stem? It seems his steerer on his fork comes up high.
Kestrel 200sci - Pedal Room
Robbie - Same question basically, how did you get the steerer on the fork to come up this high to be able to add on the threadless stem? Was this the original Kestrel threaded fork?
1996 Kestrel 200SCi - Pedal Room
I'd like to do something similar but use a 1" black headset to make it match the stem and bars
Kestrel 200sci - Pedal Room
Robbie - Same question basically, how did you get the steerer on the fork to come up this high to be able to add on the threadless stem? Was this the original Kestrel threaded fork?
1996 Kestrel 200SCi - Pedal Room
I'd like to do something similar but use a 1" black headset to make it match the stem and bars
Last edited by haggiszero; 09-30-16 at 09:37 PM.
10-01-16, 05:41 AM
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I think you're guess is pretty close. That black beauty looks like he went 1" threadless on the OEM threaded fork, and simply used a shim (or a 1" stem). If you don't need the rise, it works fine (and that bike looks great, just great).
The red one was a salvage save, with a reamed crankset bolt, so we simply made do. I already had the Chinese stem/bar combination, so I used a quill adapter to make it work. I'm not a big fan of those, appearance-wise, but it worked on this bike. I actually cut off about 1/3 of the adapter's stem and used a shorter stem bolt, to keep weight down. I think, with the wheels, the red one was $300 out the door. Labor from my factory is free. He's since swapped in black chain rings, so it looks a bit better.
I heartily endorse your suggestion. Another friend of mine found a 1" threadless Ritchey fork and used a 1" threadless headset. Somehow, his setup came together, full Ultegra, to one of the easiest bikes to ride fast that I've ever been on. I have no idea, but it's wicked. He still has the 1" threaded fork, which I've coveted for a while.....
The red one was a salvage save, with a reamed crankset bolt, so we simply made do. I already had the Chinese stem/bar combination, so I used a quill adapter to make it work. I'm not a big fan of those, appearance-wise, but it worked on this bike. I actually cut off about 1/3 of the adapter's stem and used a shorter stem bolt, to keep weight down. I think, with the wheels, the red one was $300 out the door. Labor from my factory is free. He's since swapped in black chain rings, so it looks a bit better.
I heartily endorse your suggestion. Another friend of mine found a 1" threadless Ritchey fork and used a 1" threadless headset. Somehow, his setup came together, full Ultegra, to one of the easiest bikes to ride fast that I've ever been on. I have no idea, but it's wicked. He still has the 1" threaded fork, which I've coveted for a while.....
Any idea if this guy might have used a 1" threaded to threadless adapter then just attached a 1-1/8 shim + threadless Stem? It seems his steerer on his fork comes up high.
Kestrel 200sci - Pedal Room
Robbie - Same question basically, how did you get the steerer on the fork to come up this high to be able to add on the threadless stem? Was this the original Kestrel threaded fork?
1996 Kestrel 200SCi - Pedal Room
I'd like to do something similar but use a 1" black headset to make it match the stem and bars
Kestrel 200sci - Pedal Room
Robbie - Same question basically, how did you get the steerer on the fork to come up this high to be able to add on the threadless stem? Was this the original Kestrel threaded fork?
1996 Kestrel 200SCi - Pedal Room
I'd like to do something similar but use a 1" black headset to make it match the stem and bars
10-01-16, 12:21 PM
#41
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Sitting behind me as I type this I have a 1" Kestrel EMS threadless fork, 1 to 1 1/8" Thomson spacer, stem, and an Aheadset threadless headset. Hopefully I'll be finally getting them moved on the bike this winter.
10-01-16, 01:17 PM
#42
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I think you're guess is pretty close. That black beauty looks like he went 1" threadless on the OEM threaded fork, and simply used a shim (or a 1" stem). If you don't need the rise, it works fine (and that bike looks great, just great).
The red one was a salvage save, with a reamed crankset bolt, so we simply made do. I already had the Chinese stem/bar combination, so I used a quill adapter to make it work. I'm not a big fan of those, appearance-wise, but it worked on this bike. I actually cut off about 1/3 of the adapter's stem and used a shorter stem bolt, to keep weight down. I think, with the wheels, the red one was $300 out the door. Labor from my factory is free. He's since swapped in black chain rings, so it looks a bit better.
I heartily endorse your suggestion. Another friend of mine found a 1" threadless Ritchey fork and used a 1" threadless headset. Somehow, his setup came together, full Ultegra, to one of the easiest bikes to ride fast that I've ever been on. I have no idea, but it's wicked. He still has the 1" threaded fork, which I've coveted for a while.....
The red one was a salvage save, with a reamed crankset bolt, so we simply made do. I already had the Chinese stem/bar combination, so I used a quill adapter to make it work. I'm not a big fan of those, appearance-wise, but it worked on this bike. I actually cut off about 1/3 of the adapter's stem and used a shorter stem bolt, to keep weight down. I think, with the wheels, the red one was $300 out the door. Labor from my factory is free. He's since swapped in black chain rings, so it looks a bit better.
I heartily endorse your suggestion. Another friend of mine found a 1" threadless Ritchey fork and used a 1" threadless headset. Somehow, his setup came together, full Ultegra, to one of the easiest bikes to ride fast that I've ever been on. I have no idea, but it's wicked. He still has the 1" threaded fork, which I've coveted for a while.....
Also I picked up a Zipp SL Speed Carbon seat post so the seatpost will match saddle + cockpit + dark Ultegra gearing.
If I don't love the black threaded stem to 31.8mm bar contraption I bought, I'll prob go with the 1" threaded to threadless adapter and then get a Zipp Stem to tie it all together. Similar to the guy that has that black beauty.
Or alternatively, just invest in the Ritchey 1" Threadless Carbon Fork and go that route. Not cheap though, those are ~$250
I didn't know the Kestrel EMS ever did a 1" threadless? I've only ever seen Kestrel 200 SCI with threaded. Maybe they did that for the last year or so before discontinuing?
Last edited by haggiszero; 10-01-16 at 01:33 PM.
10-01-16, 02:15 PM
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I think the last couple or even last year may have had a 1"Threadless.
Thanks Robbie - I'll post some pics soon. I ordered a black 1" quill threaded stem that has an oversized connector to fit 31.8mm bars from wearefactoryfive.com. I picked up new Zipp Service Course SL-70 bars (i was having trouble with reach in the drops). I'll rewrap in Fizik Soft Touch Black bar tape, get rid of the white. To bring it all together, I might get a Ritchey 1" threaded headset or splurge and get a King so the cockpit is all black on the white frame.
Also I picked up a Zipp SL Speed Carbon seat post so the seatpost will match saddle + cockpit + dark Ultegra gearing.
If I don't love the black threaded stem to 31.8mm bar contraption I bought, I'll prob go with the 1" threaded to threadless adapter and then get a Zipp Stem to tie it all together. Similar to the guy that has that black beauty.
Or alternatively, just invest in the Ritchey 1" Threadless Carbon Fork and go that route. Not cheap though, those are ~$250
I didn't know the Kestrel EMS ever did a 1" threadless? I've only ever seen Kestrel 200 SCI with threaded. Maybe they did that for the last year or so before discontinuing?
Also I picked up a Zipp SL Speed Carbon seat post so the seatpost will match saddle + cockpit + dark Ultegra gearing.
If I don't love the black threaded stem to 31.8mm bar contraption I bought, I'll prob go with the 1" threaded to threadless adapter and then get a Zipp Stem to tie it all together. Similar to the guy that has that black beauty.
Or alternatively, just invest in the Ritchey 1" Threadless Carbon Fork and go that route. Not cheap though, those are ~$250
I didn't know the Kestrel EMS ever did a 1" threadless? I've only ever seen Kestrel 200 SCI with threaded. Maybe they did that for the last year or so before discontinuing?
10-01-16, 07:46 PM
#44
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As Robbie suggested, the final year or two I'd guess used a 1" threadless fork. This one is "naked" carbon fiber - just a clear coat. I shopped for it on eBay for awhile, but it wasn't the only one I saw.
10-03-16, 07:59 AM
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Been following this thread for a while for ideas in building my Paramount 9c, which was basically a Kestrel 200 model.
That is pretty cool! Some time ago I did some searching for quill stems for 31.8, surely someone would make them, but no found nothing. That one has the bonus of being removable face too. Just wish they made multiple lengths, could use a shorter one on a couple bikes I have in mind, including my 9c/Kestrel 200 variant. I planned on using bullhorn bars, but keeping weight reasonably light. The frame is slightly on the large size for me, right now I have a cheap quill stem I bought new for $30 that is perfect - 60mm extension 130mm height (could even trim it a bit, will be slammed) and only around 240g in stock form. Barely can fit a Profile Design Airwing in there. I haven't started the build yet though, and could use the on another build I have in mind, so keeping my options open. Again cool find on the stem though!
That is pretty cool! Some time ago I did some searching for quill stems for 31.8, surely someone would make them, but no found nothing. That one has the bonus of being removable face too. Just wish they made multiple lengths, could use a shorter one on a couple bikes I have in mind, including my 9c/Kestrel 200 variant. I planned on using bullhorn bars, but keeping weight reasonably light. The frame is slightly on the large size for me, right now I have a cheap quill stem I bought new for $30 that is perfect - 60mm extension 130mm height (could even trim it a bit, will be slammed) and only around 240g in stock form. Barely can fit a Profile Design Airwing in there. I haven't started the build yet though, and could use the on another build I have in mind, so keeping my options open. Again cool find on the stem though!
10-03-16, 10:27 AM
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10-03-16, 09:35 PM
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Yah - I really wanted the 31.8mm Zipp Service Course bars for the shallow drop and short reach, So I pulled the trigger.
Then, I had to figure out a way to connect a 1" threaded stem to 31.8mm bars, so I found this after some googling.
I think its fairly new release from this Chinese company (https://wearefactoryfive.com). They have some some awesome vintage builds and were really nice when I emailed them.
Side note: I also picked up some white Testors model paint to do a touch up job.
Hopefully pics soon. Waiting on my stem its got a long way to travel + Chinese holiday right now.
NOW...........I'm really wanting to buy a $150 Chris King 1" threaded headset to bring this all together.
Black Cockpit on my White Kestrel: 31.8 Black Stem, Black Chris King headset, 31.8mm Zipp Service Course, Durace Shifters, Black wrap + Black Carbon Zipp Seatpost 20mm offset
.....Think I should? Or just get a cheap-o Origin 8?
Worth it? I'm looking for some encouragement here. lol
$150
or Cheap-o?
$30
Then, I had to figure out a way to connect a 1" threaded stem to 31.8mm bars, so I found this after some googling.
I think its fairly new release from this Chinese company (https://wearefactoryfive.com). They have some some awesome vintage builds and were really nice when I emailed them.
Side note: I also picked up some white Testors model paint to do a touch up job.
Hopefully pics soon. Waiting on my stem its got a long way to travel + Chinese holiday right now.
NOW...........I'm really wanting to buy a $150 Chris King 1" threaded headset to bring this all together.
Black Cockpit on my White Kestrel: 31.8 Black Stem, Black Chris King headset, 31.8mm Zipp Service Course, Durace Shifters, Black wrap + Black Carbon Zipp Seatpost 20mm offset
.....Think I should? Or just get a cheap-o Origin 8?
Worth it? I'm looking for some encouragement here. lol
$150
or Cheap-o?
$30
Last edited by haggiszero; 10-03-16 at 09:56 PM.
