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Old Olmo

Old 01-18-16, 11:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by francophile
So, you asked about rust. I'm going to toss this out there for you before you hit the OA bath thing. It's definitely easier to spot-treat, it's e-friendly, and super easy to use, just soak paper towels and wrap around the metal. Let sit, then rinse off with clean water, wipe down. https://www.evaporust.com/

You can buy it on Amazon, I had trouble finding locally. A little bit goes a long way if you're doing the paper-towel wrap method.

I didn't believe the hype, but for $8 to get a bottle enough to do 50 bikes, I figured "what the hell?" and bought it. I won't screw around with other methods. This stuff is great for cranksets and frames. I reckon if you wanted to buy by the gallon, you could soak parts in it, then pour the remainder back in the jug as long as you removed any loose material off the part before hand.
found this https://www.evaporust.com at the local O Riely's auto parts store 22 for a gallon. I did not follow the directions of degreasing but gave it a whirl. All I can say is wow what a great product. I will follow directions next time. Will post before and after pics soon. I have not yet decided what to do with the frame ie repaint or not. One of the cotters was damaged when I took apart the crank. On side of the bottom bracket I cannot remove. My park tool does not fit it well. and one pedal is stuck on the crank right now. Other than that it came apart easy.
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Old 01-18-16, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Gallo
found this https://www.evaporust.com at the local O Riely's auto parts store 22 for a gallon. I did not follow the directions of degreasing but gave it a whirl. All I can say is wow what a great product. I will follow directions next time. Will post before and after pics soon. I have not yet decided what to do with the frame ie repaint or not. One of the cotters was damaged when I took apart the crank. On side of the bottom bracket I cannot remove. My park tool does not fit it well. and one pedal is stuck on the crank right now. Other than that it came apart easy.
You may not get the fixed cup off easily.

You may know, but the other pedal will have reverse direction threadings from the one you removed.
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Old 01-18-16, 02:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by repechage
You may not get the fixed cup off easily.

You may know, but the other pedal will have reverse direction threadings from the one you removed.
Thanks agreed bottom bracket is not coming off easy and aware of directional threads just stuck. I will get the crank arm in a vise and get the pedal off.

It seems my park tool does not fit the bottom bracket well the slots are shallow and hard to get a positive grip on. I might have to bring it in to a shop. I will some penetrant and soak both the pedal and cup and give it another go
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Old 01-18-16, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Gallo
Thanks agreed bottom bracket is not coming off easy and aware of directional threads just stuck. I will get the crank arm in a vise and get the pedal off.

It seems my park tool does not fit the bottom bracket well the slots are shallow and hard to get a positive grip on. I might have to bring it in to a shop. I will some penetrant and soak both the pedal and cup and give it another go
Assume you are trying to get the fixed cup off - I can't see it well from your photo but have you tried the ever popular punch and hammer approach? Not to imply being a butcher or anything but the hammer/punch can act a bit like an impact wrench and get things to loosen when just twisting doesn't cut it. Especially where there might be rust involved.

Got the Magistroni cups off my project very nicely that way - no damage to any surfaces!
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Old 01-18-16, 08:26 PM
  #30  
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What a grand old bike! Glad you decided to get her on the road. Keep us posted. Very interesting project.
Here's a link to a video on how to use the bolt method of removing a BB fixed cup. works well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa8z...ion_4004428577
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Old 01-18-16, 10:25 PM
  #31  
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If you have an impact wrench nearby, Sheldon's fixed cup tool works wonders and will only set you back a couple bucks at the hardware store. Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups

I've used several times with an impact wrench w/o issues. I suppose you could use with two ratchets and a breaker bar.
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Old 01-19-16, 08:47 AM
  #32  
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Thank you for the continued input from all. The rims need to be replaced unfortunately they are not rideable and I would like to keep the grip fast wing nuts on the front as they look cool. Any suggestions on a set that wont break the bank? What tires would be appropriate?

I have purchased so far front and rear derailleur nuevo record $70.00

Ambrosia stem $20.00

Speedic leather saddle $40.00

I have some pads and cables and I believe enough cable housing

Still need Chain, Rims and Tires, rear gears

The build will not be period correct wrong stem wrong seat wrong drivetrain wrong rims but it will be a cool ride and to those that do not know it will look like cool old school

The bike will go back to my brother in law as it was his Fathers and he still has an attachment to the bike. It will come with one requirement it finds a home in his garage.
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Old 01-19-16, 10:20 AM
  #33  
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Curious, what kind of rims are those? You may see an engraving near the air valve, or stickers around them. The hubs appear shot (exterior) but if the rims are something worthwhile, I'd be willing to trade you a pair of wheels in reasonable shape for yours. You may still need to slap on some rim strips, tubes and rubber on whatever you get.

It's tough to get into a pair of complete rims with tubes and tires for under $100 new. You may be able to find something locally on CL taken from a part-out. The important thing you need to pay attention to is the front and rear spacing in millimeters - that is, the gap between the dropouts. I can regurgitate information for you or tell you a basic rundown, but really... just read this: Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing
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Old 01-19-16, 02:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by francophile
Curious, what kind of rims are those? You may see an engraving near the air valve, or stickers around them. The hubs appear shot (exterior) but if the rims are something worthwhile, I'd be willing to trade you a pair of wheels in reasonable shape for yours. You may still need to slap on some rim strips, tubes and rubber on whatever you get.

It's tough to get into a pair of complete rims with tubes and tires for under $100 new. You may be able to find something locally on CL taken from a part-out. The important thing you need to pay attention to is the front and rear spacing in millimeters - that is, the gap between the dropouts. I can regurgitate information for you or tell you a basic rundown, but really... just read this: Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing
They are Nisi Toro and have damage and are not road worthy The aluminum is for lack of a better word is oxidizing and disintegrating. front is far worse than rear but the same issue. It is too bad as they are not to far out of true and spin fine
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Old 01-19-16, 05:05 PM
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Have you been able to identify the hubs....they look like they might clean up nicely. These FB hubs on my Paff didn't look too much better, but they are a combination of chrome steel middle and alloy flanges so they cleaned up pretty well (if not perfectly), and they are very smooth...







Anxiously awaiting the rims I ordered so I can lace them up and update my Paff build thread....
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Old 01-19-16, 05:23 PM
  #36  
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^^

There you go. If the hubs spin fine, some handiwork could do you well.

If you just need to replace the rims, those are pretty easy. I picked up some tubular rims in a purchase I'd offer to part with, but honestly doubt your BIL would want to deal with service and maintenance on them.
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Old 01-20-16, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by francophile
^^

There you go. If the hubs spin fine, some handiwork could do you well.

If you just need to replace the rims, those are pretty easy. I picked up some tubular rims in a purchase I'd offer to part with, but honestly doubt your BIL would want to deal with service and maintenance on them.
Originally Posted by Gallo
They are Nisi Toro and have damage and are not road worthy The aluminum is for lack of a better word is oxidizing and disintegrating. front is far worse than rear but the same issue. It is too bad as they are not to far out of true and spin fine
Originally Posted by markk900
Have you been able to identify the hubs....they look like they might clean up nicely. These FB hubs on my Paff didn't look too much better, but they are a combination of chrome steel middle and alloy flanges so they cleaned up pretty well (if not perfectly), and they are very smooth...







Anxiously awaiting the rims I ordered so I can lace them up and update my Paff build thread....
Good call had to take a call at home cut the spokes and got a better look at the hubs

The front is an Olmo hub so it stays with the bike

rear not sure yet but I suspect the same

Does anyone have an idea what manufacturer this would be?
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Old 01-20-16, 02:58 PM
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They could be FB - try cleaning them gently as FB often put their mark as well as the bicycle makers name on their parts. Also check the faces of the hubs (mine are marked FB) and/or the cones (often marked FB and sometimes marked with a date - mine were marked 52).

I'm sure others with more experience will also chime in.
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Old 01-20-16, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by markk900
They could be FB - try cleaning them gently as FB often put their mark as well as the bicycle makers name on their parts. Also check the faces of the hubs (mine are marked FB) and/or the cones (often marked FB and sometimes marked with a date - mine were marked 52).

I'm sure others with more experience will also chime in.
ok who is FB
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Old 01-21-16, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Gallo
ok who is FB
FB is Fratelli Brivio, makers of hubs and cranks. Much of their production was done for others. Hubs made under a great many different names.

Fb Hubs

A variety of their hubs are illustrated in this forum thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...os-needed.html

Somewhat doubt those on your cycle are FB as they have five-piece bodies. FB bodies are usually three-piece. Two possible makers are Agrati and Gnutti but there are others as well.
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