agmetal

I've been looking for a suitable frame for a build idea that I have in mind, and I came across a Shogun 400 that looks like it may fit the bill. I was somewhat surprised by how short the top tube looked, so I measured it....it's 58cm from BB center to top of seat tube, and the top tube measures 55cm center to center. Is this a typical height/length ratio for this model, or did they just use one length of top tube for multiple sizes?

I've had a couple '80s road bikes that are shorter in height, but with longer top tubes, and I find myself feeling very stretched out on those bikes in their stock configuration, and need to use a tall stem to get the bars where I want them. I have 3 modern bikes, which are nominally 48-53cm (different brands, all with very similar geometry and fit). I was very surprised to discover that this 58cm Shogun looks like it may actually work for me, since the height brings the bars up to a more comfortable height without requiring an exceptionally tall stem, and the length is short enough that I can comfortably reach the bars from the saddle.

agmetal

Not the best picture, but here's the bike in question:

noglider 

It's on the short side but not insanely unusual. They may have done that with their lower models because less experienced cyclists don't want to lean forward all that much.

T-Mar

I had a quick look back through some old magazines and found that in 1983 the top tube length varies, depending on the model. The 1000 (mid range racing)& 3000 (pro racing) are listed as 54.2 cm, the 600 (mid-range sports) at 55 cm and the 2001 (touring) at 57 cm. However, in 1984 the 300 (entry level), 400 (entry level), 550 (touring) & 600 (mid-range sports) were all spec'd with the same length top tube, which in this case was 21-3/4" (55.25 cm). There were no geometry measurements in 1985, except for seat angle and chainstay length, and then only on the entry level models , which I find very strange. Given that they appear to have gone from multiple lengths to a single length, it may well have been for economics, as you suggest. FYI, I'd appreciate the serial number for my database. TIA.

agmetal

Cool, thanks for the info. Here's the build I have in mind:

7-speed RSX brifters, possibly on Velo Orange Dajia compact drop bars
Replacement rear derailleur (likely modern Shimano Tourney...unless something a little higher end would be compatible - suggestions?)
Possibly replacement front derailleur (how picky are front derailleurs? If I use a modern derailleur intended for 8+ speeds, will it work with a 7-sp chain and cassette/fw?)
Tektro R559 brake calipers
Eventual conversion to 700C wheels

agmetal

More/better pics:

top506

Did you acquire this bike from a gent on the Cape by chance?

Top

agmetal

Considering buying it from my manager. Not sure who he got it from.

agmetal

I've been offered a similarly-sized Shogun 300 for a better price - gonna check it out to confirm the size, but may go for that, since I'm trying not to spend much on this build. I think I read somewhere that the 300s sometimes used Tange 900 tubing, which is actually lighter than the Champion #5 that this 400 is made from?

These are the only pictures I've seen of it so far....anyone able to determine the model year?:

r0ckh0und 

Had a 400 a while ago that was Tange 900. I'm not sure on the model year.

RobbieTunes 

I had that same frame in the same size and color. It rode just fine. I put orange deepV's, wrapped the bullhorns in orange, orange saddle, and sold it as a flip/flop to a Virginia Tech madman.....