since6

Here are the parts to the Campagnolo Nuovo Record Friction shifters on my Nishiki Professional.

since6

The wire clipped friction adjustment bolt is in fair condition, with surface rust, the split lock washer that goes underneath it and against the metal pressure plate is totally coated with rust. Which raises my first question-replacement of this split lock washer?

I can take this to our local Tacoma Screw and would bet that they will have an identical split lock washer in stainless steel, what do you think?

Or, is this a search for a Campagnolo replacement lock washer, more likely you have to get the entire kit if you want the washer, to keep the authenticity of the bike?

No, I’m not going to sell this bike. Yes, I plan to ride this bike for as long as I can, thus the preventative maintenance I am putting into the bike now as well as trying to solve parts issues into the future. But I do want to keep the bike true to what it is, but it would seem a Tacoma Screw stainless steel lock washer would do no harm?

since6

Next are the metal plate that goes over the rubber (?) concave washer that fits inside outer side of the shift lever and rubs against the body of the shift lever to create fiction on one side of the shift lever. Again the metal plate shows surface rust, but is really in good condition I think for 35 years. The same is true for the rubber concave washer, but it raises questions:

1. What should I use to clean off residue from the shift lever body and the concave rubber washer? Soap and warm water/distilled water (which soap would least risk damaging the rubber washer)?

2. Where would you ever find a replacement washer, short of buying an entire shifter kit? Or is there an off the shelf rubber washer that will work, e.g., trip to Tacoma Screw?

3. Which leads to the final question is there anything that you have used which will renew/lengthen the life of this rubber washer, and that will not turn it into a puddle of goo after you apply it (somehow the terrible image of the Wicked Witch of the West from the Wizard of Oz comes to mind after applying a wonder substance to the rubber washer only to hear it proclaim “I’M MELTING!, I’M MELTING!”)? Or, defeat its purpose by rendering the rubber now too slick to ever provide friction against the aluminum shift lever body.

Finally, on the down tube part of the shifter is another thick rubber (?) washer, see: picture in first post, that fits into the other side of the shift lever body and provides friction to the other side when the friction bolt is tightened. The same questions apply to this rubber washer, as were raised above in regards to the concave rubber washer.

Thanks for your advice and help.

Kactus

I'm not sure what advise your asking for, but I just clean them up and put a little grease on the moving parts and threads.

P.S.; You added more while I was posting. I would look at your local Ace Hardware store first for washers, they usually have an incredible selection.

since6

Kactus thanks, my main concern are the two rubber washers that provide the friction to the shift lever. I assume just soap and water, liquid hand/dish soap(?) could be used to clean the washers and the interior surfaces of the shift lever, but then comes the main worry. How do you keep a 35 year old piece of rubber from breaking down, and if it breaks down what have others done to source or make rubber parts to replace these two rubber washers?

As is everything works just fine, but someday these two washers will break down/fail and if there are means to extend that day out as far as possible I would like to know what others have done, and/or, how others have sourced these washers or made washers to replace them.

Given the mold provided by the interior of the shift lever has anyone tried to make replacements by filling the shift lever interior with a similar rubber compound to make a replacement?

It's the curse of vintage that stuff just isn't being made anymore, so it's either scramble for the last of the parts, or, figure out a way to make a part. So my interest in asking what others have done to solve this problem of a part that will wear out.

Otis

I think you are over thinking this one. You can just clean them up and put them on the bike. I do not grease them, but some like to.

The lock washer may not be original. They may have come with those at some point but I think the original part is a cupped washer made from spring steel. But lots of people used standard lock-washers when the original part wore or they were getting slippage.

The plastic bushings are easy to find still.

Kactus

All of mine have had a plastic washer, but if they are rubber I'd use as gentle a cleaner as possible such as hand soap. Afterwards use 303 Aerospace Protectant to help preserve the rubber.

rootboy 

Looks like there's at least one non-original part here.
I don't think the little split lock washer was originally found in this model shifter.
But probably added by a previous user to try to keep the shifter from slipping.

Try cleaning up the rust with some vinegar and extra fine steel wool.

JohnDThompson 

Use a toothbrush to knock off the loose rust, then soak the parts in oxalic acid or vinegar. I doubt you'll need to replace the split washer but if you do, take it to the hardware store and find the closest replacement. If you have a wire wheel, you can slip the washer over a metal rod (like some coat hanger wire) and hold it against the rotating wire wheel to really clean it off. I wouldn't do this to the chromed friction bolt, though. I'd just get it as clean as possible with the toothbrush and vinegar/OA and then wax to seal it up. It will rust again eventually, at which point you simply repeat the process.

JohnDThompson 

Just clean them off and put them back in place. They're not rubber, but hard plastic and should remain functional unless they get broken. But honestly, I've never seen that happen.

repechage

A note for those who do not know, this assembly is the second version. Original was all metallic.
The plastic is a version of nylon.
The washers originally were of the belvel type, (Otis used cupped, which is a good description) there were often two per side, raw metal. The split washers used should be available, maybe even in stainless... But the belvel washers provide more force.
I have assembled this era lever in various ways with and without grease. The raw creamy green yellow parts differ too regarding grease. Totally dry the levers with the plastic internals feel cheap the starting force to move too much.
Try greasing one side.

since6

Thanks to all for excellent advice and back history on this shifter and its parts. I will copy your posts to add to the file I am keeping on this bike and will post pictures of the results after I have used your advice to service and clean these parts.

The point on the split ring lock washer not being a standard part makes a lot of sense because the friction bolt and plate that goes over the outside concave friction washer have some surface rust, but nothing like the total rust of the split ring lock washer. When I disassembled the shifter for the first time I wondered why only this part was so badly rusted when there were other parts that could also rust but had only light surface rust on them, your explanation answers that mystery as it is not a Campagnolo part.

I have a friend who is restoring a pre-war bike and he has been using electrolysis to good purpose to remove the rust from bike parts, which does an amazing job, has anyone else tried this option for the removal of surface rust?

Salamandrine 

Google "belleville washer" and you should be able to find something that is a good match for the original washer.

It's possible there may be some old timey bike shop in your area that still has a campagnolo parts case. For those that don't know, good bike shops used to keep a full stock of campy small replacement parts. Part of why the brand was so popular was this serviceability.This was feasible because there was only incremental changes up until the end of the Tullio era in the mid 80s.

Slash5

I keep a jar with an inch or so of Evapo-Rust or similar rust remover and just drop small parts like that in it for a couple of hours - longer if really bad. It doesn't harm the metal or chrome but will usually strip zinc plating or black oxide coatings. Works really well, parts come out like new.

since6

Thanks Slash5 and Salamandrine. Yes, the ability to service and restore is a great attraction to me with campagnolo components. We have Shimano components on our tandem (so we could get a really huge choice of gearing on our rear cassette which we love). But it's sad to think that when the brake shifter unit wears out on the tandem it's throw away time, whereas I can and am gathering the campagnolo parts to keep the ergoshifter running into the decades ahead. It's what also fuels my interest in vintage stereo gear, a time when things were made to last and/or be repaired into the future. And thanks for the tip on "belleville washers" I will check them out.

since6

Last night I found in Bike Forums a post that took me to a wonderful list of Campagnolo catalogs and I got lucky. Therein was a 1982 catalog and on page 39 is a complete exploded shifting mechanism identical to mine matching all the parts on this shifter. Turns out the split ring was an original part "0190/07" which sits on top of the cover plate "0190/03" that is compressed by the friction adjusting wing nut "604/1" that compresses the cover plate onto the handlebar friction plate "0190/06". I truly thank the member that posted the link to these catalogs. The post is under:



Campagnolo vintage Catalogs
Hey Guys,
Check this out, Campagnolo Vintage Catalogs.
Raggi di Storia: Cataloghi e Libreria