Bike Forums

Bike Forums (https://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php)
-   Classic & Vintage (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/)
-   -   More Tire Stuff.... (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1068308-more-tire-stuff.html)

horatio 06-15-16 02:43 PM

I usually run my pressures at 90/95 F/R for 23 and 25mm. I weigh 200. These pressures are much more comfortable on the chipseal roads nearby. As to speed, well, I doubt I'm much faster.

rowebr 06-15-16 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by ThermionicScott (Post 18847262)
I'm curious (but not willing to do conclusive tests ;)) how low we 150's-lb guys would have to let our 38mm tires get before risking snakebites. I round up a little from what the calculator gives, and that's good for at least a week. Jan Heine lets his 42mm tires get down into the 30's before he worries about pumping them up again.

If enough people chime in we'll have all the data we need! I do wonder how many of us are out there that fit the description of ~150 pounds and using 38mm tires...anyway here are my stats.

Rider weight: 155
Tires: 38mm Loup-Loup pass
Tire pressure: 45 rear, 35 front
Flats: 1 flat in about 2000 miles of use. From a tiny shard of glass, not a snakebite.

Chrome Molly 06-15-16 03:05 PM

While I agree that it is better usually to run lower pressures with 28 plus tires, individual tire construction impacts my decision on pressure as much as size. If you are going to "bend" a tread around objects that introduces a set of stresses that you need confidence the tread can handle. Contis 4000's and most gravel tread tires are strong enough to go low on my roads. Compass tires can't go as low without routinely flatting due to their lack of tread toughness. I love their sidewalls but the tread misses the mark for reliability completely (for my roads at least).

On smoother stuff a 95/105 25c veloflex master runs like butter and is still tough enough mostly.

I spent some time last year comparing 28 and 25 conti 4000s2's. I came to the conclusion that the 28's were great for rail trails and gravel, but the 25's were more "responsive" on most pavement. Both got a thumbs up and knowing the difference on what to use when has proven helpful.

eschlwc 06-15-16 03:40 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 18847536)
The tiredrop chart is a good place...

I'll assume a 35mm tire. Starting with a body weight of 180 lbs, add 30 lbs, and you have 210 lbs of load. The rear will get 126 lbs, which is 57 kg. That gives you a touch more than 50 psi on the rear.

your example is closer to 70 psi according to your chart.

eschlwc 06-15-16 03:45 PM

noglider's chart has me inflating my 23c paselas to around 100psi for 190 lbs of total bike weight.

ThermionicScott 06-15-16 04:00 PM


Originally Posted by eschlwc (Post 18847998)
noglider's chart has me inflating my 23c paselas to around 100psi for 190 lbs of total bike weight.

Sounds about right to me. I'd be divvying that up as 90 psi in front and 110 psi in the rear, if it were my bike. :thumb:

BluesDaddy 06-15-16 04:01 PM


Originally Posted by Chrome Molly (Post 18847915)
While I agree that it is better usually to run lower pressures with 28 plus tires, individual tire construction impacts my decision on pressure as much as size. If you are going to "bend" a tread around objects that introduces a set of stresses that you need confidence the tread can handle. Contis 4000's and most gravel tread tires are strong enough to go low on my roads. Compass tires can't go as low without routinely flatting due to their lack of tread toughness. I love their sidewalls but the tread misses the mark for reliability completely (for my roads at least).

On smoother stuff a 95/105 25c veloflex master runs like butter and is still tough enough mostly.

I spent some time last year comparing 28 and 25 conti 4000s2's. I came to the conclusion that the 28's were great for rail trails and gravel, but the 25's were more "responsive" on most pavement. Both got a thumbs up and knowing the difference on what to use when has proven helpful.

Good to hear that 25s are enough. I was mightily disappointed this spring when I couldn't squeeze Conti Ultra Sport 28s into either of my main roadies and had to stay with 25s. For a few years now I've been slowly lowering my pressure to deal with the rough NH back roads. I usually do about 90psi for my 170lbs. I'm concerned at going too low because of the danger of flatting on a pothole.

jyl 06-15-16 04:33 PM

My rough practice
23 mm 100 F 120 R
25 mm 80-90 100
28 mm 70 80-90
And in my brief time riding 42 mm, 40-45 seemed just right

Salamandrine 06-15-16 05:11 PM


you’re likely to find very few people showed up with a dedicated set of “race tires.” Plenty of racers bring race wheels. A select few will even have a set for hilly events and another for aerodynamic performance on gentler slopes. The majority of these wheel sets cost $1500 or more. But a $240 set of tires saved just for racing? Not on your life. Tires are just tires, right?
This sounds really funny to someone who raced in the early 80s. We all used special race tires. Clement Criterium Setas were most popular, and they were much too expensive to ride everyday. I'd guess they cost at least $240 for a set adjusted for inflation. A bit more actually.

Sounds like lots of lip flapping and nothing new. Everyone rode tubulars at about 110 decades ago, perhaps a bit less for training. I pump my current Pasela PT 28 to about 90 figure that's close enough.

10 Wheels 06-15-16 05:18 PM


Originally Posted by Salamandrine (Post 18848179)
This sounds really funny to someone who raced in the early 80s. We all used special race tires. Clement Criterium Setas were most popular, and they were much too expensive to ride everyday. I'd guess they cost at least $240 for a set adjusted for inflation. A bit more actually.

Sounds like lots of lip flapping and nothing new. Everyone rode tubulars at about 110 decades ago, perhaps a bit less for training. I pump my current Pasela PT 28 to about 90 figure that's close enough.

I used 700 X 18's three times on this track's 100 mile ride.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ndy2012184.jpg

10 Wheels 06-15-16 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by 10 Wheels (Post 18848190)
I used 700 X 18's three times on this track's 100 mile ride.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ndy2012184.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/IMG_0048.jpg

rekmeyata 06-15-16 06:06 PM

I didn't really see anything new in that report that wasn't known about for at least the last 35 years and probably more. It's the same thing that the Michelin PSi calculator indicates to be the idea pressure for someone who is 170 pounds riding on smooth surface, and everyone knew for a very long time that on rougher surfaces to drop the pressure 10 to as much as 20 pounds; of course the idea pressure is also dependent upon the width of the tire too. So again I don't see anything earth shattering in that report.

OldsCOOL 06-15-16 07:35 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18846370)
You'll need to pry my 23mm tires at 140psi from my cold, dead hands.

You and me both. Again. :)

nlerner 06-15-16 07:46 PM


Originally Posted by OldsCOOL (Post 18848471)
You and me both. Again. :)

Nah, I was just being snarky. My go-fast bike has 38mm Compass tires that I run at no higher than 50 psi.

qcpmsame 06-15-16 07:58 PM

[MENTION=45088]nlerner[/MENTION], channeling [MENTION=368671]Ed.[/MENTION] are we.....

Ed. 06-15-16 08:28 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18846370)
You'll need to pry my 23mm tires at 140psi from my cold, dead hands.

That's going to cost you!

jefnvk 06-15-16 09:37 PM

Hmm. I'm around 210# clothed. Bike is 30#, and my 1-1/4" tires come out to about 32mm. By that chart, at 120# per tire (for simplicity's sake, I'll assume 50/50 weight distro), I should be a shade over 70#, which aligns well with my observation that they run best right before I top them off when they hit 65-70#. Maybe I'll start topping them up to 80#, and letting them get a bit lower before adding more.

Would be interesting to get out a scale and measure back v front tire distribution too.

cyclotoine 06-15-16 10:50 PM


Originally Posted by jyl (Post 18846180)
Very, very interesting.

I'd think there is a third factor, which is impact resistance - the tire needs to protect the rim and the tube, when you hit a road irregularity that is much larger than the rest. The killer pothole.

With tubulars, you're not worried about protecting the tube against pinch flats. With deep section carbon rims (and a spare set on the following team car) perhaps you're somewhat less worried about damaging the rim.

But I know that if I run my 25 mm clincher tires at 70 psi, I'm prone to get pinch flats. Of course I weigh a lot more than Cancellara . . .

The other consideration that needs to be considered is cornering. At low enough pressure, the tire starts to feel mushy in turns. At even lower pressure, it comes off the rim. I don't know exactly where that constraint lies.

This brings me to another area where I think bike tires could be greatly improved. Rubber compound. Why should an all-out race tire last longer than the race, plus a safety margin? Design for a 500 km life, and you should be able to use really soft compounds that have terrific grip, even in the wet. Race motorcycles wear tires so sticky that they will pick bits of litter from the pavement. And how about the days when the peloton is racing in near freezing weather, e.g. the high mountain stages of the Giro or some of the spring classics?. Snow tires use rubber compounds that stay soft at low temperatures, extreme condition bicycle racing tires could as well.

Bike tire design seems really focused on resistance (rolling, impedance, aero) but a chute slows you down ore than an extra 1% of resistance.

I definitely can't get more than 1-2K out of a race tire like a vittoria open corsa, and my new veloflex rear already shows wear at only 300ish kms... so I think the good race tires do wear pretty fast.

gugie 06-15-16 11:40 PM


Originally Posted by fender1 (Post 18846435)
I think skepticism is healthy, especially when there is a commercial venture involve. IME, I read what Jan Heine had published awhile back on the same subject and was interested but skeptical as well. Rather than just dismiss it all as marketing hype, I bought some Vittoria Hyper tires and ran them at a lower pressure. I found that for me, what had been reported, was pretty much spot on.

I have since purchased the Compass tires (700x38 with the extra light casing) and have taken to running latex tubes in them as well. I find the ride to be fantastic. I am running the tires 55 psi in the rear and 50 psi in the front and I am 6"1" and 185lbs. I have also noticed (fingers crossed) a steep drop off in the number of flats. Could just be luck of the draw or the tire could be less likely to pick up debris as it deforms and rolls over it more easily. For me the most important part is the comfort. I now find it much less enjoyable to ride bikes with skinny tires and higher pressures. YMMV.

+1

I ride the 650b x 42mm Hetres and practically float on gravelly roads. As for fewer flats, "me too". I think it's like blowing up a balloon very taught - a pin prick and it blows. A balloon with just a bit of air requires a real jab with the same pin to make it leak.

catgita 06-16-16 12:47 AM

When Burto came up with the 15% guideline some 35 years ago, that was on a steel drum. It wasn't until 2009 that tests in the real world scientifically demonstrated that higher pressures are not faster. These new tests, also real world using scientific methods, show a significant decrease in performance at higher pressures, which is new, and confirms the earlier results.

In the years I have followed BF, the discussion has shifted sharply from "get skinny tires so you can run higher pressures" to "I need to get a new racing bike because mine will only take 25mm tires". And on the road, I no longer get comments like "how do you go so fast on such big tires".

OldsCOOL 06-16-16 04:57 AM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 18848496)
Nah, I was just being snarky. My go-fast bike has 38mm Compass tires that I run at no higher than 50 psi.

Party pooper. :)

I run 15-20psi in my 26x1.95's.

clasher 06-16-16 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by cyclotoine (Post 18848826)
I definitely can't get more than 1-2K out of a race tire like a vittoria open corsa, and my new veloflex rear already shows wear at only 300ish kms... so I think the good race tires do wear pretty fast.

I've noticed the same thing, this is my first time using the open corsa and I'm seeing some wear and I've only got ~1200km on my open corsa. It's been worth it but I might try and get a part-time job at a local shop and just ask to get paid in nice tires. I imagine motorcycle tires can get away with using even softer rubber because of how thick they are compared to a bicycle tire.

crank_addict 06-16-16 09:10 AM


Originally Posted by cyclotoine (Post 18848826)
I definitely can't get more than 1-2K out of a race tire like a vittoria open corsa, and my new veloflex rear already shows wear at only 300ish kms... so I think the good race tires do wear pretty fast.

That seems about right but when we talk of high end race purpose and longevity, its uncanny cheapo tubulars are the same. Conti Giro are done at 500 miles. Same goes for the Taiwan Clement, shreds and won't make a 1,000. Challenge Vulcano the worst of them at 4-500 miles. The latter will disintegrate before your eyes. Not joking.

Ed. 06-16-16 09:40 AM

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...ps7lnyipph.jpg

About 4K. :thumb:

ThermionicScott 06-16-16 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by catgita (Post 18848914)
When Burto came up with the 15% guideline some 35 years ago, that was on a steel drum. It wasn't until 2009 that tests in the real world scientifically demonstrated that higher pressures are not faster. These new tests, also real world using scientific methods, show a significant decrease in performance at higher pressures, which is new, and confirms the earlier results.

I think you're conflating two different tests. Frank Berto made his 15% drop chart using measurements on a floor with bathroom scales. Jobst Brandt and Avocet used a steel drum to measure the rolling resistance of the tires alone, vociferously rejecting concerns about frictional losses within the rider. I think the word "wimps" was involved. :lol:


In the years I have followed BF, the discussion has shifted sharply from "get skinny tires so you can run higher pressures" to "I need to get a new racing bike because mine will only take 25mm tires". And on the road, I no longer get comments like "how do you go so fast on such big tires".
+1. It wasn't all that long ago that my local bike stores offered any size of 700C tire you wanted, as long as it was 23 or 25mm. Now they've got 650B tubes on the shelf!


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:01 AM.


Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.