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Hi-E hub "maintenance" & Campy Skewer locknut resistance

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Hi-E hub "maintenance" & Campy Skewer locknut resistance

Old 09-09-18, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tcpasley
Steve - thanks again. I used an arbor press to easily remove one flange, as per the instructions from the CR Hi-E group. With the flange off, the bearings were perfectly smooth. I just pressed the flange back on, being careful to not go too far with it. The bearings stayed perfectly smooth. I think if the flanges are pressed in too far, there is an internal spacer tube that contacts the sides of the bearings and causes interference that mimics bearings going bad.

As for the weight rating, 180# is my goal weight, so getting to use that front hub will be an incentive to make that goal. As for the rear hub, it's a a Hi-Hi, so it should be fine even at my current weight. I'm not sure what is meant in the catalog where it says "6 degree" or "4 degree" flanges - maybe that refers to the spoke angles w.r.t the axle.

I wonder how many French threaded rear hubs Hi-E made. Ever seen another one?

tcpasley, what is the "CR Hi-E group" you reference? I just got a 1972 Witcomb with these hubs and want to overhaul them..
Thanks,
Dennis
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Old 09-09-18, 10:54 AM
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"CR" is Classic Rendezvous: Lightweight Classic Vintage bicycles
I'm not aware of a Hi-E group associated with CR, but there is a Hi-E page on the site: HiE, main
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Old 09-09-18, 01:54 PM
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Skip

I have a box of Campy skewers and spare parts. Come over and get some. Threads wear out. If it's the thread on the spindle that's bad, plenty of those in stock too.
Skewer failure is a bad one. Don't take chances.
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Old 09-09-18, 02:10 PM
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And now I look at the date stamp. Anyway, if you still have a partial Campy skewer just lots here. If there are still open C levers in the box those are mine, pretty much any style cap or length of spindle is there.
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Old 09-10-18, 12:17 PM
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I wish I had stumbled across this thread sooner, as I had and still have a fair amount of Hi-E hubs and I'm quite familiar with servicing them. I also corresponded and spoke with Harlan Meyer several times back in the late70's and early 80's. I could have answered a lot of the questions here.

The issue with Q/R skewers is that they compress the spacer between the bearings and cause them to bind. This is particularly a problem for the hubs that had aluminum spacers, as they can become permanently compressed. I did use Q/Rs on my rear wheels, but used the Hi-E skewers in the front. I never modified my droputs, but I did update them to the steel right-side adapter that would bite into the dropout. Ultimately, I ended up racing on a '79 Klein with vertical dropouts, which eliminated the slippage problem. I still have that bike.

If any of you visit First Flight Bikes, my Exxon Graftek is on display there, complete with wheels with Hi-E hubs and their 199 gram rims. The front is 36 spoke radial and the rear is a 16/24. I know that they're looking for a new home for Jeff's collection, but if they don't find one, I'm hoping to buy that bike back, since it has some sentimental value.
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Old 12-11-19, 05:25 PM
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pastorbobnlnh I'm reviving an old thread... I just took out a set of Hi-E hubs from the parts drawer that RobbieTunes gave me last summer with the goal of mating them up with some rims. They don't have skewers, but your Simplex skewers are da bomb, and I just happen to have a set. Much cooler than those oh-so-pedestrian Campy Record skewers.

Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
I ended up finding a decent pair of straight lever Simplex QR skewers on a trashed set of wheels at the dump. While not the lightest, they look good and get the job done on my '71 Paramount.

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Old 04-16-24, 08:23 PM
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Please illustrate

Originally Posted by crank_addict
Difficult to fully view the detail where the center / shell bottoms out. Perhaps the bearings are first pressed into the flange, then the center shell is pressed flush to the bearings race. Then they index drilled the flange spoke holes.

So now the first challenge is in dismantle.

Probably should lightly index mark each flange to the corresponding mark on the shell. Then a layer of tape around the shell body to protect it. You'll need a split collar for press work. Take it up right to the hub body. The collar to touch only the close edge of the flange - NOT the spoke hole area. For the other end and not to wreck that outer flange lip, need to place a thick cylinder or washer against that outer flange. A pilot punch or sacrificial socket head bolt to fit in the hollow axle and used for the press to bump against.

Aluminum is soft and would think with a decent hydraulic press, will easily come apart like a hot knife to butter. Might even be able to do it with a basic arbor press from Harbor Freight.

The tricky part will be in assembling and perfect alignment of the flange to shell for the spokes. Has to be square on perfect too.
Ive read your method over a few times and still am not able to imagine what this would look like. Can you draw a diagram to your words? Trying to remove flanges
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Old 04-17-24, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Warrenmee
Ive read your method over a few times and still am not able to imagine what this would look like. Can you draw a diagram to your words? Trying to remove flanges
So no worries but this is a 5 year old zombie thread, you may get a response, we'll see.
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Old 04-17-24, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac
So no worries but this is a 5 year old zombie thread, you may get a response, we'll see.
except that crank_addict is no longer a member, so a response is fairly unlikely.

Steve in Peoria
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Old 04-17-24, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by steelbikeguy
except that crank_addict is no longer a member, so a response is fairly unlikely.

Steve in Peoria
I see that now but was thinking Skip might weigh in.

Paging @smontanaro
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Old 04-17-24, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac
I see that now but was thinking Skip might weigh in.

Paging @smontanaro
the last time I saw crank_addict, he was living in the Chicagoland area, so there's a chance that Skip can get an update.

I do like the Hi-E stuff, although it was a bit quirky and at times questionable. Clearly, Harlan never intended for anyone to take the stuff apart for bearing replacement, but perhaps it can be done without the ideal tools. Should make a good project to document in the forum!

Steve in Peoria
(the most I've done is JB Weld the little rod back into the end of a Hi-E "quick release" skewer nut)
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Old 04-17-24, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by steelbikeguy
the last time I saw crank_addict, he was living in the Chicagoland area, so there's a chance that Skip can get an update.

I do like the Hi-E stuff, although it was a bit quirky and at times questionable. Clearly, Harlan never intended for anyone to take the stuff apart for bearing replacement, but perhaps it can be done without the ideal tools. Should make a good project to document in the forum!

Steve in Peoria
(the most I've done is JB Weld the little rod back into the end of a Hi-E "quick release" skewer nut)
Skip weighed in about a set he had so I figured he might have some insight.
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