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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 04-22-20, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Your Newest is looking great and will have a little more refinement when you apply the decals.

Good luck "wearing out" the fizik tape. Seems to last forever.

Years ago, I had to take some 80 grit paper to a thin-walled 15mm socket, and I still use it.
Thanks! I never thought I would own a bike this sweet, but the frame was just sitting there at the reuse store waiting for me... Yea, I thought about going the sanding route, but then I happened upon that sweet CCW2 for $20, so figured it would be worth it. It has 14, 15, and 16mm ends so I can use it on my other bikes, too.
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Old 04-22-20, 07:17 PM
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Working on these two:

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Old 04-22-20, 10:57 PM
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Picked this 97 R300 a couple months ago. It was in ugly shape. New headset, BB, and cables. Original RSX RD and FD, but Sora 3400 brifters. Wheels from a different project. Just needing some trim and adjustment before riding. Chain was new too, just not pictured...


My string trimmer needed a new carb. They sent the wrong one. New, proper one on it's way...


My old 2002 F150 needed the engine replaced. This is a used engine, I'm refreshing it but screwed up. Replaced the head gaskets, and head bolts. Had the right parts, but over torqued the bolts by about 500%. (instead of turning 90* after the torque setting, followed by another 90*, I turned 270*, followed by another 270*. Maybe not 500%, but I'm surprised I didn't break a bolt.) I was just not paying attention. New bolts and gaskets ordered, over stretched bolts have been loosened. So much for an engine swap later this week. And out a bit more money... This puts me 2/3 of the way to a decent rebuilt short block. Grrrr...
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Old 04-23-20, 12:35 PM
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A fast commuter bike, thrown together out of the parts bin.


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Old 04-23-20, 02:24 PM
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Wheel set for the 3Rensho built up and assembled.
Mavic Open Pro, Suzue Classica, Wheelsmith, Tied and soldered, Vittoria Corsa, Roval, Dura-Ace.







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Old 04-23-20, 02:31 PM
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Finished the '87 Schwinn Sierra BMX cruiser conversion...except I have a new set of bars coming as I am flexing these ones too much already lol. Some proper S&M Slam Bars will be the finishing touch.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by zjrog

Picked this 97 R300 a couple months ago. It was in ugly shape. New headset, BB, and cables. Original RSX RD and FD, but Sora 3400 brifters. Wheels from a different project. Just needing some trim and adjustment before riding. Chain was new too, just not pictured...


My string trimmer needed a new carb. They sent the wrong one. New, proper one on it's way...


My old 2002 F150 needed the engine replaced. This is a used engine, I'm refreshing it but screwed up. Replaced the head gaskets, and head bolts. Had the right parts, but over torqued the bolts by about 500%. (instead of turning 90* after the torque setting, followed by another 90*, I turned 270*, followed by another 270*. Maybe not 500%, but I'm surprised I didn't break a bolt.) I was just not paying attention. New bolts and gaskets ordered, over stretched bolts have been loosened. So much for an engine swap later this week. And out a bit more money... This puts me 2/3 of the way to a decent rebuilt short block. Grrrr...
You might want to have the heads checked now, they can warp from being overtorqued and they have very little tolerance to begin with, can't be too clean or wrong surfacing as well.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zjrog

Picked this 97 R300 a couple months ago. It was in ugly shape. New headset, BB, and cables. Original RSX RD and FD, but Sora 3400 brifters. Wheels from a different project. Just needing some trim and adjustment before riding. Chain was new too, just not pictured...


My string trimmer needed a new carb. They sent the wrong one. New, proper one on it's way...


My old 2002 F150 needed the engine replaced. This is a used engine, I'm refreshing it but screwed up. Replaced the head gaskets, and head bolts. Had the right parts, but over torqued the bolts by about 500%. (instead of turning 90* after the torque setting, followed by another 90*, I turned 270*, followed by another 270*. Maybe not 500%, but I'm surprised I didn't break a bolt.) I was just not paying attention. New bolts and gaskets ordered, over stretched bolts have been loosened. So much for an engine swap later this week. And out a bit more money... This puts me 2/3 of the way to a decent rebuilt short block. Grrrr...
Well, if you're gonna make a mistake, do it with torque-to-yeild bolts. Once they go past their elastic limit, they actually provide almost no extra load. Take a GOOD straight edge (like a Starret) and some feeler gauges to the head and deck surface to check them for flatness.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by nesteel
Well, if you're gonna make a mistake, do it with torque-to-yeild bolts. Once they go past their elastic limit, they actually provide almost no extra load. Take a GOOD straight edge (like a Starret) and some feeler gauges to the head and deck surface to check them for flatness.
And please do be careful with that, Ford calls for virtually zero scratching of either surface for proper sealing long term as well as very little warpage.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac
You might want to have the heads checked now, they can warp from being overtorqued and they have very little tolerance to begin with, can't be too clean or wrong surfacing as well.
I will check.

Originally Posted by nesteel
Well, if you're gonna make a mistake, do it with torque-to-yeild bolts. Once they go past their elastic limit, they actually provide almost no extra load. Take a GOOD straight edge (like a Starret) and some feeler gauges to the head and deck surface to check them for flatness.
Torque-to-yield, I certainly agree. They sure felt odd loosening, I already tossed the originals, but will measure against the replacements when they get here, out of sheer curiouosity. I know a guy with the right straight edges and feelers.

Originally Posted by merziac
And please do be careful with that, Ford calls for virtually zero scratching of either surface for proper sealing long term as well as very little warpage.
The heads were only off long enough to swap the gaskets. I had already let this project snowball. Bought the engine, running, for $600 4 years ago.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zjrog
I will check.



Torque-to-yield, I certainly agree. They sure felt odd loosening, I already tossed the originals, but will measure against the replacements when they get here, out of sheer curiouosity. I know a guy with the right straight edges and feelers.



The heads were only off long enough to swap the gaskets. I had already let this project snowball. Bought the engine, running, for $600 4 years ago.
Sounds good, just keep in mind Ford calls for plastic scrapers only by hand when working on these, they are an almost no tolerance, surface, flatness, pita and a lot of work as you are finding.

At one point any visible scratches required surfacing.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac
Sounds good, just keep in mind Ford calls for plastic scrapers only by hand when working on these, they are an almost no tolerance, surface, flatness, pita and a lot of work as you are finding.

At one point any visible scratches required surfacing.
The original gaskets didn't require any scraping Thank goodness for layered metal gaskets... YES. PITA...

On the other hand, It is good to check inside the engine, all cylinders still had crosshatched patterns from original honing. New oil and water pumps, new timing set, the original guides were nearly worn through. All new sensors too.
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Old 04-23-20, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zjrog
The original gaskets didn't require any scraping Thank goodness for layered metal gaskets... YES. PITA...

On the other hand, It is good to check inside the engine, all cylinders still had crosshatched patterns from original honing. New oil and water pumps, new timing set, the original guides were nearly worn through. All new sensors too.
May the force be with you.

The scraper comment was mainly to illustrate the gnats pita these can be.

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Old 04-23-20, 08:02 PM
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Little heat...

Hit this with PB Blaster last nite...little heat and the vice got the job done...no paint was harmed in the removal of this seat post...

600/1100 watts...went hot...1100 watts!

Ta-daaaa...
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Old 04-23-20, 08:10 PM
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Waiting on a new Tektro R559 front brake (I busted the cable adjuster on the cheapy stock one) and a handlebar shim so I don't have to clamp this thing so much, but otherwise my new Creme Caferacer Uno is pretty much as I want it to look for now... Took some tinkering!

Just got the lovely Tabor leather saddle and accessories on as well as the frame pump... Comfy little ride! Well, I say that, but in fact it has a rather imposing silhouette with that 60cm frame and 28" wheels.

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Old 04-23-20, 08:16 PM
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Nice bike!
Where did you pick it up?

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Old 04-23-20, 11:27 PM
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Almost finished with my 89 Trek 950 drop bar conversion...

Needs bar tape and RD adjustments...

Pulled the carb off my string trimmer, disassembled it, cleaned it, vroom. Works like new... Swapped the string head for the cultivator head and doggone it, I'm tired and sore. That little beast tears through dirt, but makes me work for it...
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Old 04-24-20, 10:19 AM
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Put some gold brake lines on the SilverAce...



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Old 04-24-20, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sloar
A fast commuter bike, thrown together out of the parts bin.



Nice job and looking forward to seeing it finished.

These make for speedy around town bikes. While they can be stiff (umhum: sore rear for long trips), they're great for short ride arounds. I picked this one up as-is while living in Spain for very little money and loved riding it around town and very zippy.

Can anyone identify the wheelset? I cant remember who made them but they were nice. light & stiff.

Last edited by mr_macgee; 04-24-20 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Question ?
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Old 04-24-20, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_macgee

Can anyone identify the wheelset? I cant remember who made them but they were nice. light & stiff.
Maybe Rigida DP 18's?....nope, just noticed spoke pattern.
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Old 04-24-20, 11:57 PM
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Modifying my 1972 Triumph T120V for T150V plunger detent shift indexing and cam plate, with custom fixturing.



I hit the target.



Machine work finished, cases updated for for the T150 cam plate and plunger.




Success!!! Cam plate and plunger in perfect alignment




And yes I look like my avatar...

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Old 04-25-20, 01:31 AM
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Excellent work!

To balance said precision with revising my previously thought-to-be-precise measurements on my '74 Paramount's BB situation, it looks like I need to go back to the previous, shorter length BB. I've been hunting for the Goldilocks left side Q-factor due to my IT band issues which, through a comedy of life and world scenarios, continues to be put on hold. One "organic" / felt consistency has been an Ultegra 6700 crankset that I've had on a couple of bikes. Knee seems to really love it. I think, now incorrectly, that it's because it's the newest Shimano crankset that also has the overall widest Q-factor (148mm over 146 and 147 of prior Dura-Ace generations). Nope!

With the Paramount, I was also chasing an ideal chain line (45.0mm) per Shimano's indexing STI lever for the front derailleur. So instead of the "127mm" BB (measures 128mm), I go back to the "122.5mm" BB (measures 123mm) while ditching the 2.5mm worth of spacers I thought I needed. I'm reasonably confident the tripleized crankset will clear the chain stay, but will have to cross that bridge when I get to it. This, just after a big rim swapping (MA2s to TB14s)...

Back to Q-factors, I devised a solid measuring system for obtaining Q-factor values and ran the test on all by bikes, recording everything, and then doing the math to see what I found. Well, my world of educated guess assumptions is a bit upside down now. So now to sort things out in the hopes of gathering more good data (even if an organic "it feels a lot better") and going from there. Staying home, but not bored!
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Old 04-25-20, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mr_macgee
Nice job and looking forward to seeing it finished.

These make for speedy around town bikes. While they can be stiff (umhum: sore rear for long trips), they're great for short ride arounds. I picked this one up as-is while living in Spain for very little money and loved riding it around town and very zippy.

Can anyone identify the wheelset? I cant remember who made them but they were nice. light & stiff.
Looks Bontrager ?
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Old 04-25-20, 10:31 AM
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I picked up a 150mm Suntour SR Junior crank for my first gravel grinder. It's an early 90's Specialized Crossroads with original 300LX drivetrain and Exage Country canti's with 47mm front and 38mm rear tires. I couldn't get clearance for a 47 and rear mudguard. It's quite beat up and although I wouldn't call it a pig, I put a lot of lipstick on it. The short cranks put me in a terrible position so the next phase is a drop bar cockpit. It's the nicest day of the year so I'm going for a test ride.
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Old 04-25-20, 12:07 PM
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Building up an Italvega frame. The decals are gone, but it looks like a Gran Turismo (unless it's the thing somebody on this forum had that looks like a GT but isn't).
A parts bin build for obvious reasons.
52/30 in front, 14-21 back, & the Suntour Cyclone II that Disraeli Gears ****s on. Center pull brakes because they're better.
It's green.
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