scarlson 

Nice!
I've had the longbow since 1999, but this past month is the first time I really think I've shot it well. I owe it to my newfound shooting buddy, who has really helped break down my technique, adjust my arrows, and give me all manner of unsolicited advice. He has a couple Asian-style recurves, shoots from the thumb, does Kyudo and all that. Thank goodness for these enthusiasts who share their skills!

JaccoW

Picked up a 66cm Koga-Miyata Adventure from 1996 for another member ( @tomhaegler ) last week and currently stripping and wrapping things up for it to be shipped to Switzerland.

From this:





But before I did, I took some pictures with different wheels to give him an idea of what wheels look good on it.


Original wheels in the shade. 37mm tyres.


The black rim + black spokes with 40mm skinwalls from the Graveller


Polished silver rims + spokes with 35mm tanwalls from the Batavus Randonneur GL



More pictures here: Old world (barely) vintage - 1999 Koga-Miyata Adventure

thumpism

Slipstream update: the crankarm broke right across the taper for the BB. Don't believe I've ever seen that on a bike that wasn't completely beat to crap.

This one is an Acera 170mm and the closest thing I have handy is an Alivio 175 so I'll keep looking. Turns out several of the fasteners are corroded, the front rim strip had decayed and general lube and massage is indicated. More as it happens.

Velo Mule

I finally settled on the choice of fenders for the Continental. Velo Orange Stainless steel.


Rear eyelet attachment from the drive side

Seat stay mount

Fork mount

There are always challenges when mounting fenders. I can't remember one where I didn't have to go into my stash of hardware to find some way to adapt the fender, and some bending is always required. This install was no different, At least I didn't have to run to the hardware store for a solution. So, not too bad. The Schwinn did not have threaded fender eyelets and this was the source of finding hardware to make it work. You may also notice that the tab on the fork mount needed to be bent to clear the headset cup. Looking at that picture, it appears that I can get the front fender to move up just enough to get the fender line right.

These fenders are make for 700C so it they are a little tighter fit on 27" x 1-1/4" tires. Which is fine.

JRD

I am in the process of restoring this 95 Bianchi

Rooney 

FINALLY nearing the finish line on updating my girlfriend's bike. The project has been plagued with minor setback after minor setback. Today's ordeal was the realization I'd already used one of the brake cables for another bike. Tires on order. I'll grab a brake cable tomorrow, probably get some new brake pads as well. There's also a different set of Sunrace thumbies on the way. I didn't realize the rear in this set was 9-speed index only. I pulled the two ball bearings which establish the indexing out and it friction shifts fine right now, but I'm not sure how long that will last. The friction thumbies are silver and red too, so they'll look better. Waiting on 165mm SunXCD arms to come in, 172.5 standing in for the time being. Beauty shots when all is finally said and done.

Rooney 

Here it is just about complete. Only needs brake pads and final brake adjustment. Could probably shorten the rd housing too but it was being finicky before and works fine as is. Very pleased with the result. I love the rear Mafac location too, it’s one of my favorite bike details.

curbtender

My neighbors son asked about a bike so I pulled out an old Hardrock for 6' teen. Told hin to come try it out and spent a few minutes explaining friction shifting. Adjusted the seat and turned it over to him. Down the driveway he goes and a hard right behind a hedge and I hear him go down. Guess I should have asked if he knew how to ride, lol.

Kai Winters

Worst bike: No name beach cruiser bought on the interwebz and assembled, or at least started to/tried to, by the customer's friend. Brought to the shop where I work for us to build. Looking the bike over I notice how close the fork tips are to each other...uh oh...put the front wheel to the fork and yep it's not going to fit. The fork was welded incorrectly at the factory, or behind somebody's tin hut more likely, and are too close at the tips by over a centimeter and no way can they be "persuaded" to move out enough for the hub to fit. New fork on order. The rest of the bike is just cheap junk. But we'll get it working and it likely will cost more than buying a real bike at a local shop.

Best bike: Working on a new build. 2022 Spesh Tarmac SL7. Building it from the frame up. Ultegra 11 speed Di2, some very nice Campy Carbon wheels. Waiting on a couple of fiddly bits, which should be in tomorrow, and with a bit of luck the bike may be finished tomorrow...fingers crossed.
The parts for this bike were bought basically one piece at a time...boy what a pain in the ass...waiting, waiting, waiting...hoping the parts are on the way...nope...back in the box...building a bike this way is a real pain in the ass.
When I built my Aethos several months ago I had all the parts and had it built in one day and a couple of beers...in my home shop, not the work shop lol. All this waiting, the Tarmac frame came in before my Aethos frame arrived, is driving me crazy...I want it done so I can move on to another build.

JaccoW

Replaced the crankset and upgraded the drivetrain on the SilverAce to Hollowtech II and a better gear range. (36.2-92.6 vs. 31.6-80.9) I was always spinning out with the old crankset. I had some issues with the crankset needed for the full coverage chaincase not holding up to the way I ride my commuter bike in the city so I'm going to try this minimalistic Simplex Chainguard REF C2 A for a while. I might try something with a bit more coverage if I can find it or even go for one of those classic Porteur chain cases if I can find them.

Since I needed to take out the rear wheel to change to a larger sprocket I relubed some of the bearings in the rear hub.

Bianchigirll 

It's too cold to ride, STILL, and I just don't feel like going to the market so I thought I do a small job that's been waiting. Now you all know I have a strange love hate thing with Shipmano and I've hated for years that I had DA shifters and RD on my baby. Well I've been looking for a good condition 1st Gen Chorus but the few I've seen are too expensive and the same for a SuperBee Pro. One day I spotted this nice clean GPX and thought why not? Paired with some Campanutella Doppler shifters it should make for nice smooth shifting.



The Campanutella Doppler shifters may be my all time favorite shifter. Very elegant curve and incredibly smooth operation. It's funny that this Campione de Mondo decal has been on here since 1990 and I never noticed it's slightly off center.

One thing I'll miss about the DA shifters is how the left/front shifter stands up to make it easier to shift with the right hand.


I think I need a slightly shorter chain, Ill have to look through the boxes in the garage. There should be a few very low milage KMC 7/8/9 speed ones that will work.

The wheels are the fabulous Electra Ticino "Sheriff Star" hubs with shipmano 8spd FH body, the rims are polished silver Ticino and Pasela tires. I running a 12-25(?) with a 42/53 upfront. It pretty good combo fro around here but I could probably go to a 23

Just a little thing I did a few months ago

52telecaster

How does the crank set feel? I bought a 6603 Ultegra triple I'm thinking about trying on my trek 720. It was cheap and silver so I thought I'd try it. It's not here yet though

Mad Honk 

I am spending a bit of my Sunday to find out what a couple of rear derailleurs are and what the correct period for them. I'm thinking they may be 1st gen Chorus or maybe second gen. My Co-Op kids gave them to me last week when I was there dropping a few bits off. Help would be appreciated. Smiles, MH

One on the left needs pulleys, and cable clamp nut.

Seems to be complete.

Which fixing bolt does this one take?

Bianchigirll 

etherhuffer 

Ducati 250 Scrabler

Insidious C. 

Nice! I bought a 78 Ducati Darmah new. Eventually sold it in 89 to fund a better racing bicycle- my Daccordi, which I still own.

etherhuffer 

This won't be 100% period correct, but is a fun project. Head is going off to New York for bigger valves. Any hints on building motorcycle wheels?

Yune_Garage 

swampyankee2 

I've laced a few wheels for my Motogiro bikes. Before I tore them down I fabbed up a jig with the axle mounted in the center so I could get the offset correct on reassembly. I used it for truing the wheel after. I was happy with the results. I bought aluminum rims for my Benelli Sprite and didn't have alot of confidence in getting new SS spoke lengths right so I had a local wheel builder do it for me. He did a great job. One of these days I'll get the bike completed and see how they go down the road.

xiaoman1 

NICE!!!!
Best, Ben

thumpism

The battered and forlorn Trek 620 frame and fork I got from steine13 has been languishing in the garage because I have plenty of household projects to occupy me, but I brought home an antique door that needs to be stripped so while the bride was doing that I figured I'd tackle the old paint on the Trek. She is using Peel-Away on the door and it's great, but that stuff didn't faze the Imron on the frame. I tried some different stripper and it seems to be working but that's a messy and smelly task. Called around about sandblasting but that's way too costly for a cheap bike project, especially one that'll get a spray can rebuild.

Old paint does not look terrible but there's rust around the TT cable guides that needs to be sanded and there are plenty of chips that otherwise would not bother me but this will take care of them, too.


You can see surprise patches of rust that were under the old paint.


Spray paint will be a definite improvement and it need not look great. Don't know when I'll ever get it built up but this is the first step. Last time I used Rustoleum's Titanium color and will likely do the same on this one.

jdawginsc 

I think the complete one might be an Athena...?

merziac

Looks like you are well on your way there so I'm late to the party as usual but I'll add this anyway.

Heat and sun speeds this process up immensely,

I scratch them up with a very rough sanding sponge than lay them out in the sun on a black garbage bag, slather on the stripper with a brush and wait, once starts to lift, I slather again and wait. At a certain point when the sun is right you can literally almost see it bubbling.

That's when I get out the stout welding slag style wire brush and saw the paint right off, repeat until just the nooks and crannies are left, slather them and dig in with smaller wire brushes like tubing brushes from Harbor Freight.

Its still pretty labor intensive but you can let it bake while you tend to other things and it is far less tedious than inch by inch scraping, that can be at the very end with picks and small scrapers.

You need good sun for heat so has to be warm outside to work well but I have warmed frames up in the house and used a heat gun to get it warmer as well.

I have a couple of old 1/2 glass storm doors that I'm going to build a hot box with that may speed the process up even more.

Mad Honk 

Jdawg,
it doesn't really matter much as they won't be staying here. I guess they are going into the Mad Honk's Trunk Junk sale thread when I get to it. I'm very busy right now, Cuda Kurt sent me his Raleigh Pro frame and it is going to test my metalworking skills a bit to repair the seat lugs. I'm guessing my Masters level skills at clubhead grinding will help me get the job done. Some welding this week and the finishing the lugs. My guys at the pro refinishing shop have matched the original color of the top tube so I will need to get out the air brush equipment and be sure it still works. Hopefully I can start a thread later after the work starts. Smiles, MH

ehcoplex 

Picked up a pair of PD-A520 pedals cheap. Pretty banged up, but seller said they spun freely. Well, maybe a little too freely, so I did what I do and decided to take 'em apart. Oy, the BBs in these are SMALL!! Really hoping I can get it back together... I actually only totally took one apart and thought better of it for the second. Soaking and flushing with mineral spirits, adjusting the cones and greasing seemed to do it for the one I didn't take totally apart. Should've just done that for both! Also stripped the anodizing, did some sanding and polishing. They still look kinda banged up, but now they're shiny (& I think they'll look good on the PX-10...)!