Fredo76

see here: "On the Road Again" Challenges

bikemig 

I don't but when I want more padding, I like the handlebar gel pads and then I wrap the bars with handlebar tape,

https://www.amazon.com/Fizik-Bar-Fou...42&sr=8-5&th=1

Bianchigirll 

bikemig I may have to try this

georges1

Nice bike looks like Campagnolo Victory transmission

merziac

Maybe this?

Bianchigirll 

merziac I'll check them out


Thank You. Triomphe actually, at least the derailleurs, cranks, calipers and HS. I opted for C-Rec era Retrofriction shifter and the larger aero style brake levers from the later '80s.

ehcoplex 

Just finished building up my stripped '79 Holdsworth Professional. Protected with several coats of tung oil to get me through this riding season. Paint (probably) next winter.

merziac

Keep in mind that any robust protectant/inhibitor needs to be very thoroughly stripped before paint, hot tanking but not too hot is the best way to go about it to make sure you get it all gone.

repechage

Car care day

2cam16

Must be a Subie!

VintageSteelEU

It looks very decent as is. Not too shabby and wouldn't mind being seen riding it, but for $20 it's a great deal. Some oxidation here and there, but it seems to be a bicycle that someone was actually riding and taking good enough care of. As for steel rims, these look remarkably good. I've seen much, much worse being used, so you might be able to keep the cost of repairs quite low if you're willing to keep them and use them. If not, this is a decent set to keep for another rebuild of some much older bicycle.
I'd probably still take the bicycle apart, it's bound to be missing grease everywhere it should be greased (if it doesn't, kudos to the previous owner). Looking at the photo of the front wheel and the thread on it, I think it's reversed (I think on the rear one too).

bikemig 

Yeah thanks, I had a hard time turning it down for $20. Good eye on the tires; the chevrons are reversed.

The rust pon the small bits isn't bad and I can deal with it by soaking the parts in rustoleum. Yes I'll overhaul it and replace the consumables. I have a set of alloy wheels lying around with high flange hubs so there is no cost and I'll use those steel wheels on a repair one day. The suntour v rear deralleur and the ratcheting suntour downtube shifters work together nicely. It's not often you pick up a 50 year old bike that shifts well. The chainrings look good. This bike clearly spent a long time as a garage queen. Other than the rust on the small bits, the bike is very clean.

The drop outs are thick, stamped steel (not forged) so I'm guessing it's only the main triangle which is double butted chrome moly.

VintageSteelEU

With that kind of price one simply has to get the bike. If only to save it from being converted into a fixie I mean, honestly, I would get it even just to clean it up, replace the rims and brake pads and give it away. It looks like a very decent bike, well built. I would take it over any new, low to mid price range, welded bicycle.
As for double butted vs plain gauge tubes, I wouldn't necessarily discard plain gauge tubes as bad. It might still be a very enjoyable ride.
Before I switched to Suntour Vx on my Grand Sprint, I was using Huret Success Titane. Which was fine. But Vx paired with Power Shifters is leagues ahead (sorry, Huret). If someone decided to make a new edition of these and made them as well as Suntour did, I think they would make some good money out of it. Heck, I would probably get a set myself, despite having waaay too many bicycle parts

RCMoeur 

Hmmm. Red Grab-Ons. That might be tough if your time machine isn't working properly.

I have a set of four red/purple striped grips in road bar lengths, but I sense that's like you asking for chocolate ice cream and my offering chocolate and vinegar flavor.

I do also have a set of four bright red Spenco road grips as well, enough for one bar.

Classtime 

I arranged the purchase of this Cannondale before I left CA for TX. I checked a bag full of tools and parts not knowing what It needed. I didn’t check my list twice and now I’m bummed without a chain tool and crank remover. My plan was to go to town with polish and wax but that will have to wait until my next trip to visit this Zero bike. I managed to adjust the bottom bracket and it spins smoothly so I feel good enough about that for a few rides this week. New tires and tubes came with me but I didn’t figure the rim strips were toast on a bike only 31 years old. I’ll be looking for a LBS first thing tomorrow.


1992 SR600 Zero Bike

panzerwagon 

What part of Texas? If near Austin, I can hook you up with tools, etc. Feel free to send a PM.

In any case, cool bike and cool idea

merziac

ESI makes silicone and foam in many colors, they are actually thinner than Grab Ons, a bit spendy as you would need 2 sets.

Mr. 66

A neglected Raleigh Competition GS is purchased from the local. This bike needed front-end attention and that has been addressed. At some point this bike was crashed straight on and the forks were pushed back mightily, a long 2x4 and a 2x4 block were strategically placed and with my feet on the block behind the tips and the long 2x4 braced on the ground an upwards pull was performed. That worked great but the nds needed a little more, and that was done independently minor, side to side was a breeze.

Omg it worked!!! The fork crown is back to square to the headtube. It could probably use the crown to be recutting, but I can do a work-around when setting the crown race.

Its previous owner tired to address the damage. They tried vise the fork and work the steertube with some type of lock wrench putting dings in the steertube as well. I was able to roll out the steertube.

There is one more minor thing, a ding on the seatube, I grabbed a long seatpost to push the dent out from the insides.

I'm certain that this is confusing not seeing the before, or how I jigged the first corrective action so I'll try this performance on the Urago I got last summer.

Here is the after on the forks but before the dent removed on the seatube, and a picture of the Urago that will undergo the same technique all be in reverse.

VintageSteelEU

This BB fixed cup was definitely a challenge. First time ever I had problems with the tried and trusted BB removal toolkit (what's in the photo plus adjustable wrench), the cup wouldn't budge. After soaking it thoroughly with penetrating oil (RD-90) for days it finally came out of its shell today. I'll have to thoroughly clean and examine the htreads inside the BB shell though, there was some resistance for a short moment with every turn. After pulling the cup out I have noticed it has a small crack, whether a result of my previous attempts or something going further back, I do not know. Previous owner removed the stuck seat post by filing it out, so on top of everything, there's a pile of aluminium shavings and dust inside. That all will have to be somehow flushed out. But the cups are off, which is progress.
Well, there's no way I'm getting this tool back and the cup out of it anyway (last time I tried with another cup removed this way, I destroyed the only bench vice I had access to), so I guess it's a good bye for Superbe fixed cup. Not that I can reuse it with a crack. I do have a set of identical Sugino cups, which this essentially is (rebranded as Superbe), so it will do nicely (especially with new bearing balls, the old ones are not in a usable state).
Last thing remaining is the stuck stem. So I think I will go for turning the frame upside down and soaking the expander wedge this way. And let's hope this does the trick. FIngers crossed.


BB removal kit

RCMoeur 

This very windy afternoon, I replaced both tires on my "alumicruiser", as the rear tire had an unfortunate cord failure on Friday and I purchased a pair of replacement tires at the bike swap in Tucson yesterday. Went rather smoothly, including moving the Spinskins over.

This is what the inside carcass of the failed tire looked like:



And this is the photo from Friday when I noticed the inappropriate wooble in the tire alignment:



So the alpha bike is restored to full operation, and hopefully all is well.

RCMoeur 

Those ESI grips look cool, but I noticed the webpage said they're designed for handlebars up to 22 mm diameter - but the typical drop bar diameter is greater than 23 mm.

merziac

Being silicone they will probably stretch a bit and you might have to futz with them a little.

RCMoeur 

It's all fun n' games until you see that tear propagate up that brand new expensive grip...

merziac

Hence the futzing and careful application of said futzing.

Mr. 66

Here is the jig
After strategically placed the tough part was getting balanced to apply pressure.

the after

It will still need some individual attention to the tips. Not to far from being buildable.