Nemosengineer 

Shimano calls this thing a "cassette joint" anyway I had to perform surgery on it to get it to clear the drive side chain stay. It was stopping the wheel from going all the way forward in the dropouts, had to be clearanced.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Success!!! Time for some bracket drillium???
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Now to figure out whether above or below the bottom bracket with the cable routing.


: Mike

velomateo

I had originally built up the Bertoni Max frameset with an 11 speed SRAM group with a set of DiaCompe down tube shifters.
Not long ago I picked up a cheap and tatty Record 9s group with some Campy Neutron wheels. Some other goodies are a C Record crankset and Cobalto brakes.
I had some clearance issues with the cassette, which is weird seeing how there was an 11s on there before, but a temporary shim (1mm washer) did the job. Shifting is excellent after I serviced the r/h shifter. I’ll try to convince the machine shop guys at work, to make me a permanent shim that I can fit to the axle. But working fine for now.

RCMoeur 

We now return to the Saga of the Overly Orange Wheels, last expounded upon in post 6317.

Sisyphus is a sissy.

Over the past couple weeks, I've spent many of my evenings in the warm back yard with my big can of Goof-Off and my darker thoughts, silently scrubbing away at the sidewalls of my orange-painted rims with only the volatile fumes and occasional desert geckoes as company. About 1/3 of the way around the first rim, I realized it would be faster and simpler to just disassemble the wheels, toss the orange rims as far as I could throw them, grab a new set of rims, mask the sides, paint them orange, and re-lace and rebuild the wheels. But noooo, I figured that since I'd already started along this course, I would see it through to its stubborn conclusion, even if it meant expending anAdventureManCO level of seemingly inefficient effort in the process (with all due respect to the BF Grand Master of Futility).

But I wasn't insane enough to do this all in one shot. So I'd scrub the rim for 10-15 minutes at a time (usually enough to clear four spoke's worth and another layer of skin), then pivot to tinkering with other bikes, including the similarly-hued Specialized that the wheels belong to. So I did get a lot of other bike work done in parallel with this task.

After a few days, I had the elation of completing one sidewall - with the commensurate realization I was only 1/4 of the way done.

But still I scrubbed, and gradually the stubborn orange paint gave way to gleaming bare aluminum sidewall. And one wheel was finished, so on to the other. I tried to keep my mind off the other more-productive tasks I could have been performing instead such as solving world hunger, writing my memoirs, patching a bin full of inner tubes for needy kids, billing paying clients, or cleaning the garage, but instead I scrubbed away.

And then this afternoon, addled with solvent fumes and sore of fingers, with only a couple hours of sleep due to my son's post-high-school-graduation all-night party, I saw the oncoming train in the end of the tunnel. Could success be so close?

Almost there....

Allllmossstt there...

Whew.

And so it came to pass that after about 8+ cumulative hours of toil, the wheels were now shiny on the sides and fit for service on a caliper-brake bike without gooping, pulsing, surging, howling, or pad-melting (yes, an inspection of the pads in the before condition showed the rubber had actually melted somewhat due to the paint friction).

The Great Pumpkin rides again!!!


(and now you see why I didn't just trade wheels - I wanted to keep the color coordination, only with operational brakes).

And all of this with no effect on my body.

Well, maybe not. It might grow back. And if not, it'll be useful for opening things.

I think I'll ride it to my shift at Rusty Spoke tomorrow on the PMBC ride Sunday to test everything out. But after all that work, I'm rather unlikely to donate it... yet.

So now what?

Nemosengineer 

It's a secret... I made contact with a really good frame guy and I can get my braze-ons installed within the next two weeks... WOOT!!!
Now I have to get off my butt and strip the frame, glad its a long weekend, also I found a almost full can of Methylene Chloride paint stripper, so this should be easy.

Also no post should be without bling photos... Titanium outer bearing cups upper and lower.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

noglider 

@Nemosengineer, your projects are always so interesting.

RCMoeur 

Nothing too exciting tonight - just truing and cleaning spare wheels and derusting a pile of steel seatposts prior to painting for the foster kids' bikes this fall.

BTinNYC

65O Being
Mock up for laying out the accent color (black) on the stays and fork. Using spray.bike paint.


2 little oversprays, fix that up next week, then decals and clearcoat. Shogun Celeste; 24", Tange 2 tubes and Sakai Litage fork, another well crafted Japanese frame.

big chainring

Built this Raleigh Competition up today and took it for a spin. A few things need sorted but its a really nice ride. Spurged on some 36mm Challenge Strada Bianca tires.

Bought the frane with cranks, brakes and stem a couple weeks ago. Nice condition for a 50 year old bike.

bikemig 

I'm working on 3 British bikes in various stages of completion. The 1980 Raleigh Record Ace is finished. I'm also working on an early 70s Raleigh Gran Sport and a 1979 Viking "European." The RRA is set up as a long distance machine with 3 x 6 gearing. The Raleigh Gran Sport has plenty of clearance for 700 x 35c tires and I'll set it up for light gravel and trail riding. It's a Cino bike if I ever make it up to MT for the ride. The Viking will be a simple 2 x 5 build that I will eventually move on.

RCMoeur 

This batch of painting is done. I'll let them cure for a few days then package them up.



Next fun aerosol task will be derusting and painting up oodles of salvaged noodles for all the V brakes we'll be working on in the fall. But that is a task for another day. Now time to get the Great Pumpkin ready for leading tomorrow's ride.

Nemosengineer 

Paint stripping has started on the Stratos non-track bike, Piece-O-Cake with the new paint stripper. The plan is to strip the frame in the morning, stripping the fork was a proof of process to verify the stripper actually worked efficiently, it does. After stripping is complete I will spend a few hours refining the lugs and doing some light corrosion control.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

The recommended stripper available at Aircraft Spruce.

by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

Nemosengineer 

Thanks Tom, I'm surprised I haven't been hung by the fixie crowd, the NJS purist's, or the real track bike racers, for building this bike based on a Keirin frame. I will say I'm having a lot of fun building this and believe it will work as intended (time will tell).
: Mike

noglider 

I think it's time for me to sell my track racing bike. I took it for a short and fun ride recently. It was the first time I rode it in years. It's very harsh, and the crouching position left my back hurting for a whole day. I've entertained some crazy thoughts like putting 650b wheels or upright handlebars on it, but what would be the point?

It's my 1971 Raleigh Pro track racing bike. I built it up and raced it in the summer of 2014. The experience reminded me that I don't like racing, even though I liked the folks and the experience.

repechage

that a “chrome” paint? If so, share the brand please? Not sure about painting the cogs, but all quite bright in the image.

SurferRosa

When you get it on the road to a beautiful little spot, post some pics here:

Gotta Bertoni?

merziac

We're simply not that tribe and I think with your and hopefully mine and the rest's help we can become even more tolerant moving forward.

That being said, I don't think it matters if others think they have a say in these matters.

We decide, wrangle, futz, dig, obsess, plot and most of all pay for our folly at our own expense and sometimes detriment.

And don't get me wrong, I'm the first to admit that I live for the encouragement here, like minded enablers of the highest caliber, nothing better than this.

Anyone who thinks it ok to disparage or not contribute in a positive way should be shown the door, maybe permanently IMO.

Your work is always fantastic, keep it up.

RCMoeur 

It's actually just gloss black Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover (Walmart's finest). Some rattlecan paints seem to chip or flake if you even look at them sideways, but this paint seems to hold up rather well as long as the surface is clean (I do an alcohol wipe just before shooting), and it's not on anodized aluminum or galvanized steel. I'm aware the paint on the teeth of the 38 1-piece chainring and the Megarange freewheel will get chewed up in short order once they're back in service, but the 1-6 cogs on the freewheel were otherwise so rusty that I wanted to do something to make it more presentable.

The V noodles will get shot with chrome paint once they're out of the derusting bath. I don't know what brand - I've found most chrome-type paints seem similar in terms of durability and I just need to get the noodles shiny again, as they shouldn't see too much abrasion or abuse.

velomateo

Will do. She's in that thread already, just wearing a different dress.

RCMoeur 

As part of my work with the Recycle Your Bicycle program here in the Phoenix area, I offered to patch bad tubes to save a lot of money for the program. Even though inner tubes are again available in the supply chain, they've gone up in price just like almost everything else.

This evening, a friend came over to help me tackle the final bin of tubes from last November-December's efforts. We methodically dunked, marked, abraded, gooped, and patched away, and finally caught up completely with the backlog of inner tubes.

Mostly successful:


...with a few explosive exceptions.


We'll leave them inflated for a few days as a final check for undetected slow leaks, then roll 'em up and get them back to the RYB program for the upcoming season.

An easy way to give back to a worthwhile program on a nice night.

Roger M 

My wagon has reached vintage status now, at twenty five years old. Maybe it can slide in here. I have a clicking sound while rolling, coming from the driver's rear. Trying to locate it, without much luck. Tomorrow I'll take the rotor off and check the parking brake shoes.

Oh, and changed oil/filter.

VintageSteelEU

Well, if this was a bicycle, I'd say check for the inner tube valve having too much room in the rim and moving around at higher speeds. Or the brake caliper inner cable being too long and hitting the spokes. Or the seatpost not inserted properly.. As it is, you are on your own though

daverup 

roger_m If it's AWD, it's old enough to have a worn CV joint click.

jamesdak 

Tore down this Cilo to refurbish everything. Going to try and find a paint match to touch it up with before I reassemble.

Nemosengineer 

Paint is stripped. Yea Baby... Next up is cantilever bosses and necessary braze-ons.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr


Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

jdawginsc 

Since no one reads the three bikes in three weeks thread anyhow, thought I’d plop the first two in here.



Fixie for a student...

1981 Super LeTour...plenty of nail polish making look decent at 6 ft.

SunTour seven Drive train. Weismann 605 brakes.

What do you do when you have two left ratcheting orphans. Use them both of course...