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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 06-20-23, 03:35 PM
  #6451  
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Originally Posted by janthenat
I have those Schwalbe CX Comp tires in 35 on my gravel bike project. After just a few rides I'm really liking them. A few very "gravelly" gravel roads and so far no issues. I'm generally about 75/25 road/gravel and they do roll very smooth on the road. Very interested to see how your project turns out. Really like that frame :^)
Actually done. In another thread but here are the pictures.







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Old 06-21-23, 08:27 AM
  #6452  
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Lug lining test #2, it looked really good until some monkey splatted One Shot gold on it

I'm coming to the conclusion that my hands are too old for a Fluid Writer, I might try a small brush but that's unlikely to be a lot better.
Also ordered a "Deco Color extra fine paint marker - liquid gold", that's probably more my level of skill.
On the up side I think the colour scheme works.



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Old 06-21-23, 02:30 PM
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Oy. You need much less paint. I found the super fine gold marker more appropriate for my artistic talent.
Another contributor is the condition of the shoreline. Bumpy ones = bumpy luglines.
And agree that the color combo works!
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Old 06-21-23, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rccardr
Oy. You need much less paint. I found the super fine gold marker more appropriate for my artistic talent.
Another contributor is the condition of the shoreline. Bumpy ones = bumpy luglines.
And agree that the color combo works!
That's my second try with a Fluid Writer, it's worse than the first try.
The test subject is a 1952 Bertin that doesn't have quality lug work and that could be causing some of the issues.
But before the gold it was looking quite neat - I've worked out the painting sequence to avoid problems.
It should be possible for me to add lining even if the lugs aren't great.

The final target is my 1961 Holdsworth Cyclone which has much better brazing and thinned lugs etc.
But I'm definitely not artistic so if a pen works better for me that's just fine.

Gratuitous Holdsworth Cyclone pic:

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Old 06-21-23, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
That's my second try with a Fluid Writer, it's worse than the first try.
The test subject is a 1952 Bertin that doesn't have quality lug work and that could be causing some of the issues.
But before the gold it was looking quite neat - I've worked out the painting sequence to avoid problems.
It should be possible for me to add lining even if the lugs aren't great.

The final target is my 1961 Holdsworth Cyclone which has much better brazing and thinned lugs etc.
But I'm definitely not artistic so if a pen works better for me that's just fine.

Gratuitous Holdsworth Cyclone pic:

If you need a ruling pen for lug lining, I can always take a ride to Putney sometime. My attempts were fairly pathetic though, I ended up repainting the frame. My conclusion afterwards was that firstly, I should have spent some time practising beforehand, secondly, probably a thin and fairly stiff paintbrush might be easier and thirdly, painstakingly masking off at least the lugs could be a good idea. In all fairness, your attempt in the first photo doesn't look bad. Perhaps not perfect, but what is?
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Old 06-21-23, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
If you need a ruling pen for lug lining, I can always take a ride to Putney sometime. My attempts were fairly pathetic though, I ended up repainting the frame. My conclusion afterwards was that firstly, I should have spent some time practising beforehand, secondly, probably a thin and fairly stiff paintbrush might be easier and thirdly, painstakingly masking off at least the lugs could be a good idea. In all fairness, your attempt in the first photo doesn't look bad. Perhaps not perfect, but what is?
Thanks for the offer, but I think I just have to find a way of lining that works for me.
I'm fairly sure I would have the same issues with a pen as with the Fluid Writer.
I might give small brush a go - I do that to apply white to the slopes anyway.

I've already sussed how to apply the paint (white undercoat, red then white) and which direction to stroke in to get a clean paint job.
I'm guessing lining is going to be similar - find something that works for me allowing for my (lack of) skill level.
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Old 06-22-23, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Thanks for the offer, but I think I just have to find a way of lining that works for me.
I'm fairly sure I would have the same issues with a pen as with the Fluid Writer.
I might give small brush a go - I do that to apply white to the slopes anyway.

I've already sussed how to apply the paint (white undercoat, red then white) and which direction to stroke in to get a clean paint job.
I'm guessing lining is going to be similar - find something that works for me allowing for my (lack of) skill level.
Fingers crossed. I think something similar to a sharpie pen is the easiest, though the ink they use inside is entirely unsuitable. Yes, I did try a sharpie as well, since I was going to repaint the frame anyway.
When I'm using up enamel I got (Humbrol, as it's available in small tins and many colors), which I use for touch-ups on small bicycle parts these days, I tend to go for a small brush when I want quick coverage on flat sections or a bamboo skewer when I need more precision. On some occasions I made a flat nib from the dull end of the skewer using crafts knife. For example when restoring black inlay on a Suntour derailleur. These skewers are usually 1.5-2mm thick and are easy to cut into a flat shape and get to desired width. A dry one is great when removing excess paint before it dries out or scrape it gently off. Somehow I find this touch-ups to be much easier than lug lining though.
I also use them for cleaning difficult to reach bits, for example clearing out gunk, dirt and grease from insides of parallelograms of derailleurs.
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Old 06-22-23, 04:06 AM
  #6458  
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Fingers crossed. I think something similar to a sharpie pen is the easiest, though the ink they use inside is entirely unsuitable. Yes, I did try a sharpie as well, since I was going to repaint the frame anyway.
When I'm using up enamel I got (Humbrol, as it's available in small tins and many colors), which I use for touch-ups on small bicycle parts these days, I tend to go for a small brush when I want quick coverage on flat sections or a bamboo skewer when I need more precision. On some occasions I made a flat nib from the dull end of the skewer using crafts knife. For example when restoring black inlay on a Suntour derailleur. These skewers are usually 1.5-2mm thick and are easy to cut into a flat shape and get to desired width. A dry one is great when removing excess paint before it dries out or scrape it gently off. Somehow I find this touch-ups to be much easier than lug lining though.
I also use them for cleaning difficult to reach bits, for example clearing out gunk, dirt and grease from insides of parallelograms of derailleurs.
I read a while back that good brushes make a big difference.
Since I'm not going 2k or spray paint that's particularly important.
I ended up with
Princeton Velvetouch artiste flat wash 3/4" (general frame painting)
Princeton Velvetouch artiste round size 2 (slopes on lugs and small detail)
daVinci black sable flat size 6 (head tube contrast areas or similar)
I have to say the brushes are damn fine.

And I can't say enough about how good HMG SAH300 enamel is: "high solids, gloss 1K polyurethane alkyd designed for brush application."
So far I haven't managed to leave a brush mark in anything - but it does take 12 hours to set, and the smallest tin they do is 1L for around 30.
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Old 06-22-23, 06:56 AM
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Sorry for the delay, but wanted to come up with a clear example of what lining done with a paint pen looks like. I shaved some of the nib down to get a narrow line.
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Old 06-22-23, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
I read a while back that good brushes make a big difference.
Since I'm not going 2k or spray paint that's particularly important.
I ended up with
Princeton Velvetouch artiste flat wash 3/4" (general frame painting)
Princeton Velvetouch artiste round size 2 (slopes on lugs and small detail)
daVinci black sable flat size 6 (head tube contrast areas or similar)
I have to say the brushes are damn fine.

And I can't say enough about how good HMG SAH300 enamel is: "high solids, gloss 1K polyurethane alkyd designed for brush application."
So far I haven't managed to leave a brush mark in anything - but it does take 12 hours to set, and the smallest tin they do is 1L for around 30.
I'd imagine you still needed primer and then some gloss on top. But brush is definitely a way to go with older bicycles. Hope we'll get to see the photos when you're done with everything
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Old 06-23-23, 08:52 AM
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Ah, the things one finds in old Sturmey-Archer hubs. Installed correct low gear pawls and pins in the '51 AM. Someone during the last 71 years bodged in gear ring pawls and too-long hand-crafted pins.



You can clearly see the AM's single-stage compound gears in this shot.
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Old 06-23-23, 02:26 PM
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Expecting a set of Nitto Bosco bars tomorrow. Going to put them on a 95 Univega Alpina 501 mountain bike that I have already did work on. Right now it has Surly drop bars on it
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Old 06-23-23, 05:31 PM
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Nothing major, just soulfully pleasing. Got these flat pedals on the Quantum Race I picked up a couple of weekends ago. All I can say about them is they did turn.
SInce I'm now back to clipping in I decided on a whim to service these up today. I like having some nice flat pedals available to put on any bikes I pass on. Opened them up this morning, degreased, new bearings and lube and closed them back up. Of course in the process of breaking loose the first lock nut I slipped on the towel and the dust cover flew off to parts unknown. Took me about 15 minutes to find the sucker.

Anyway, once I got done I was really pleased with how well they were spinning. So I broke out the Mother's Aluminum Polish and went out them. So now they look as nice as they spin. Even took some plastic polish to the reflectors to kick them up a notch.



I couldn't find a socket that would fit in these to loosen and tighten the cone so I just used a flat screwdriver to get the job done. First pedal I got the preload right on the first try, whoop! The second took a few adjustments.
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Old 06-24-23, 09:52 AM
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Here is a miyata Street Runner I pimped out with some Fat franks, Porteur bars, white cables, a springer saddle, flat pedals, and corn cob grips for the Bike Exchange. It should make a sweet urban cruiser. I also swapped out the rear six speed freewheel for a 7 speed Hyperglide cassette and rim and replaced the shifters with seven speed Shimano thumbies. The paint was so nice (bike showed zero wear) that I just rubbed it out and polished it.

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Old 06-24-23, 05:04 PM
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I'm doing a clearance of all obsolete hubs, rims and spokes I have and I came to a conclusion the quickest way to sell all this stuff is probably to build some wheels. I decided to start with the 600EX equipped bicycle to finally get it's current wheelset off (it didn't feel right on the 80's bicycle I want it to be) and replace it with something built up on 600EX hubs.
Originally I was planning to build this wheelset on Exal LX17 rims. It's for a commuting / rainy weather bicycle, so something inexpensive and bombproof would be best. I used Exal XR2 rims before and overall, they are excellent value for money (I think they are way better than current budget Mavic rims, albeit slightly heavier) with a minor flaw of being a bit difficult to put tyres on. LX17s would be perfect to be able to use slightly wider tyres. Then I had a look at what rims I actually have and thought I might as well just use Mavic MA2s I had laying about. The rear hub had a freewheel body stuck on it (I got it on the cheap thanks to that) and I had to put it on some rim to get it off anyway. It all turned up to be a somewhat random build in the end. The only spokes in correct length I had were DT Swiss (which I generally don't like building with), but everything went pretty smooth. Still working on the front one, but the rear one turned out ok. As soon as the wheel was ready, the freewheel body came right off without much resistance, like it was never stuck. I had a 600EX 13-21T freewheel waiting for it. So that's all sitting on the bicycle now. Still need to replace the brakes from Weinmann Vainqueur to Shimano BR-6207 600EX single pivot, but waiting for pads and cables. And in the meantime finishing the front wheel and looking for another RD-6208 in a better mechanical condition.








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Old 06-24-23, 08:05 PM
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A new project. Rebuild of an Answer Manitou 4 shock.
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Old 06-25-23, 11:00 AM
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1981 Miyata 310

I picked up this cherry 1981 Miyata 310 to fix up and give to my nephew. I built him a 1988 Rockhopper a few years back as a college bike. which he liked a lot. Somehow he managed to graduate without getting the bike stolen so he gets bonus points for that. We'll see how he does with a drop bar bike.

The bike was a garage queen. The paint is close to flawless and the parts look showroom. I bought the bike with good tires (continental ultra sport 27 x 1 and 1/8 tires) and good handlebar tape. I overhauled the bike. The only parts I changed out were the saddle (the original saddle looked uncomfortable) and the brake cable and housing.

I'm a big fan of Miyatas. They were solidly built and intelligently spec'd bikes. This bike is no exception. The suntour derailleurs are first rate. The gizmo (that is the correct technical name) that Miyata spec'd for the brakes make centering them a breeze (the last pic shows the centering device). The MKS pedals are very good as is the suntour pro compe 5 speed freewheel. The alloy wheels are solid as well. The bike has a plain gauge chrome moly main triangle. All in all a well thought out package of parts on an "entry" level bike.





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Old 06-25-23, 10:37 PM
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The paint prep has started on the Stratos, mostly filling rust pits and refining ripples in the wheel stays from the tube forming process. I am using JB weld as a filler using multiple thin coats as this stuff can be very difficult to work if you glob it on. If all goes per plan primer will go on next weekend. A black sandable automotive primer will be used and the topcoat will be gloss black with a clear coat.
Stratos decals are proving to be difficult to locate so I'm at a loss as how to badge this frame, perhaps a homage to a long forgotten manufacture... suggestions are welcome.

MKS Pedals as toe clips and straps are becoming a bit of a hassle in my blossoming urban environment.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

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Old 06-26-23, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by AdventureManCO
I really love the lugs too, which is a shame since the chrome is completely shot on them. Literally that photo shows the only remaining chrome on them. I don't think this one had 531, that one came on a later rendition in around 1974. But, while this one might just be a hi-ten frame, it's got potential to be a lightweight.
Those head lugs were common on entry-level Italian bikes, I believe. Atalas and Chiordas and the like. Might have been used for Austrian bikes, too.

The positioning of the quick-release lever makes me think the previous owner might have used the wing nut technique to secure the wheels. Worth checking that.
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Old 06-26-23, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Trakhak

The positioning of the quick-release lever makes me think the previous owner might have used the wing nut technique to secure the wheels. Worth checking that.
way back that was standard evaluation procedure when a bike came in for service, check how the QR was tightened. Provide lesson to the person who dropped it off and who picked it up.
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Old 06-27-23, 08:46 AM
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Yay, spokes arrived in the post.
Now I have an almost matching set of Mavic Monthlery Pro on large flange hubs

Rear: early Sunshine 5345 121mm
Front: early Campy Nuovo Tipo (straight QR) 98mm
The round holes are slightly different sizes - 7mm vs 9.7mm but it's close enough for me.


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Old 06-27-23, 01:56 PM
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It finally happened--my older neighbor let me pull the 23.5", all-original, barcon shift 1977 Centurion Semi-Pro out of his garage. If his old odometer is to be believed, it saw about 500 miles total before it was stored away. Am I right in thinking that these early semi-pro's were full chrome under paint? In my rush to start cleaning, I didn't get a 'before' pic, but this sneak peek should do:

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Old 06-27-23, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by fvernon
It finally happened--my older neighbor let me pull the 23.5", all-original, barcon shift 1977 Centurion Semi-Pro out of his garage. If his old odometer is to be believed, it saw about 500 miles total before it was stored away. Am I right in thinking that these early semi-pro's were full chrome under paint? In my rush to start cleaning, I didn't get a 'before' pic, but this sneak peek should do:

That's a fabulous find. And my size, so I'm even more envious. Not that I have room for another bicycle
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Old 06-27-23, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Desert Ryder
A new project. Rebuild of an Answer Manitou 4 shock.
Started to tear down after work tonight. Upper elastomers don't look terrible but are a bit sticky from lube maybe? I didn't get the snap rings out for the lowers because it got too dark and, my eyes aren't as good as they used to be.
Nice "stuff" oozing out of the bottom. Elastomer lube or melted elastomers?


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Old 06-28-23, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Not that I have room for another bicycle
I don't either, but I've been working to get this bike out of storage and back on the road for the last 5 years. It was too good to pass up!
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