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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 07-04-23, 05:44 PM
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My current project is a rough 1980 Colnago Super in need of LOTS of TLC.








Last edited by Brad L; 07-04-23 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 07-04-23, 06:40 PM
  #6527  
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Originally Posted by bikemig;[url=tel:22944133
22944133]This bike came out great. I'm curious, how did you attach the water bottle cage to the seat tube?
another option
https://www.rivbike.com/products/two...b40a062c&_ss=r

i use this one on my old Schwinn Super Le tour

Last edited by mrv; 07-05-23 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 07-04-23, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tiger1964
That sounds interesting and good to remember - I presume this method works for you?
Originally Posted by mrv
Similar question- I always think of JB Weld as staying kind of gummy.
maybe that helps prevent cracking in the future. Maybe.

Iím good to give Spray.Bike puddy a try.
This Allez has a number of tube dings. Possibly from a bike carrier.

cheers


JB Weld works best above 70 degrees and really needs a full day to cure enough to work the surface. everything has to be very very clean to get the best bond (Lacquer Thinner}.
I used a gram scale to ensure the mix is very close to 50/50. I worked this project over a week using multiple thin skims as a filler, that's why the fill job looks like tree rings in those photos
What's good about JB is it can be worked to a feather edge without chipping, it can be sanded so fine it is translucent, so no need for spot putty which I hate. So as of an hour ago the frame is in primer and I'm happy with the result. I will let the pictures do the talking.

Top tube fill area in primer.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr


Chain Stay fill areas in primer.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

This side has a paint sag see if you can find it...
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

The fork will be in primer tomorrow.
Have a great day: Mike
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Old 07-04-23, 11:42 PM
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Italian triple crank with 10 speed French rings to run Japanese derailleurs. sounds like a new project.

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Old 07-05-23, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Yeah I've read that post before. SKS and Topeak both make similar products. I'm a little skeptical of a piece of plastic holding the water bottle well. Is it working?

I'm leaning towards using a metal clamp of some type. If you run electrical tape underneath, it won't scratch the paint.

Alternatively I like some the bikepacking bags that hold a nalgene bottle and mount under the downtube but they're expensive.
As for electrical tape, you could also get Tessa tape. It's made of fabric and looks pretty nice on vintage frames.
One of my first bicycles had two clamps holding a bottle cage. There seem to be many solutions these days: Adding Water Bottle Cages to Bicycles without Braze
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Old 07-05-23, 07:39 AM
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A 4th of July project..
Took this Diamondback from this:


Down to this:

Its parts will go into the spares bin. The wheelset has already been put to use.
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Old 07-05-23, 08:46 AM
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Here is the Holdsworth. I think this bike probably had center pull brakes. Massive reach needed for front wheel. I was going to go 700 and campy brakes. Well, that was a failure. Campy brakes do not reach 27" let alone 700. So I try the Dura Ace, and they work at maximum reach, but only with 27", dang.

Here is a picture just before cable.




The wheels have been swapped with a comparable set the difference being Mavic over the Rigida. Busted up Universal side pull brakes are now Dura Ace with Campy levers, Sugino chainrings have been replaced with new Sugino rings. The chain is Sachs off an old Raleigh MTB, the bb is a Shimano cartridge, pedals from the stash.

Test ride today with the current gearing the ride will be very old school.
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Old 07-05-23, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by etherhuffer
Finally finished a 650b conversion on Fuji S12S LTD:
Good choice!

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Old 07-05-23, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak
Good choice!

Your build was part of my inspiration. Man, this is such a nice ride!
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Old 07-05-23, 07:24 PM
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New shoes this evening on the Softride.

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Old 07-05-23, 07:47 PM
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Whilst still waiting for new brake cables, I decided to tackle the derailleur. It had quite a bit of play in both pivot bolts. Not enough to affect shifting much (I think), but it was a bit annoying. I had another RD-6208 with some minor damage to the cage, so swapped the cages, cleaned it up and put it on the bicycle. The other derailleur ended up in a box for part donors for the future.
No more play on the lower pivot bolt. As for the upper / mounting bolt, I think at some point, perhaps I'll have to follow Suntour school of engineering and perhaps stick a thin shim somewhere and see if that does the trick. Not really crucial, shifting works fine. I've seen some NOS RD-6208's, but definitely outside of the budget.


Both cages off

RD re-assembled with undamaged cage

And back on the bicycle
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Old 07-06-23, 04:55 AM
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Added shims to the toe clips to fit my massive shoe size, wet sanded and polish the Viner seat post.


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Old 07-06-23, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by EJM73
Added shims to the toe clips to fit my massive shoe size,
What did you make those shims out of? Looks like a good idea
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Old 07-06-23, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by daverup
What did you make those shims out of? Looks like a good idea
I made them out of thin wall stainless tubing. I just measured wear my foot rest on my clipless pedals using the pedal axel. then added that to the cages. I road them this weekend and it worked well.
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Old 07-07-23, 04:27 AM
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No pics but my neighbor was riding his 80’s Schwinn hybrid up and down the street. The brakes were squealing loud enough to wake my deaf dog. I called him over and adjusted the toe in on the brake pads. The dog is happy.
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Old 07-07-23, 07:27 AM
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Uncommon but durable tourer. Building for a friend
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Old 07-08-23, 12:08 PM
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Lug lining test #3: DecoColor Liquid Gold paint marker (extra fine).

Slightly shakey in places but much easier to control than a Fluid Writer.
And the colour and opacity are fine.
I think I'm prepared to run with this

Update: There's a real problem trying to clear over this, solvent based varnish just smears it after 2 days.



Last edited by Aardwolf; 07-10-23 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 07-09-23, 04:17 PM
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My AlAn is officially dead due to a cracked seat post lug and has been for a while. Over the last month or so I have been frame shopping, usually I stay within the cheap and cheerful price range and I found a red 1994 53cm Cannondale R800 2.8 series, a bit rough around the edges but not bad. Full Speed Ahead...
But... I found myself back on line just for a look... I found myself smitten by a Shimano box blue with yellow logos 1984 lugged steel grail bike also USA made in wonderful condition. Yes I bought it, should be here on Monday and I will reveal the bikes true identity.

The Cannondale will be built up using most of the AlAn except for the crank, its getting the Shamagnola. Its name is "You can call me Al"


Good Bye AlAn.

20191230_125117 (1) by nemosengineer, on Flickr

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Old 07-10-23, 05:24 PM
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Rode the old Team USA down to PT this morning and then figured I might as well go ahead and do the crankset swap on it while I had it out. Figured it would only take a few minutes....right!!!
So. the Sugino crank came off with no issues at all and the BB was a cinch to remove. Had thought I might be able to reuse the current BB but then remembered it was ISO and the replacement one takes JIS. Anyway...problems reared that all to usual heads when I went to install the new sealed cartridge BB. It wouldn't go in straight so I could start the threads. Looked inside the BB and realized it was hitting on the hardware used to secure the BB cable guide. Raliegh used so steel pin of some sort with helical spirals on it. I guess they just drove it in when they built the bikes. I couldn't get it out to save my life, grrrrrr! So I had to make a 14 mile round trip to the hardware store to get a grinding stone for my drill. Came back and ground most of the protruding post down, cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned all the shavings out of the BB shell and then was finally able to proceed. Now the BB went in just fine and the new crank was on in minutes. I must be getter better at judging torque because I had the cranks bolts almost perfect when I took the torque wrench to them. Then it was a simple task of moving down the FD (endless band Suntour) and dial in the position. Wound up taking 4 links out of the chain. I'm going from a 53/39 crank to a 48/34. Then mounted up some temporary pedals and ran it for a little test. All gears combo's seem to work now, even the cross-chaining ones I won't ride. It will be nice having the 34/30 combo now for when it get's steep. I'm thinking of going with different tires though. Not a fan of the knobbies now that I have been riding them awhile. Just have to decide what to use.

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Old 07-10-23, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak
Rode the old Team USA down to PT this morning and then figured I might as well go ahead and do the crankset swap on it while I had it out. Figured it would only take a few minutes....right!!!
So. the Sugino crank came off with no issues at all and the BB was a cinch to remove. Had thought I might be able to reuse the current BB but then remembered it was ISO and the replacement one takes JIS. Anyway...problems reared that all to usual heads when I went to install the new sealed cartridge BB. It wouldn't go in straight so I could start the threads. Looked inside the BB and realized it was hitting on the hardware used to secure the BB cable guide. Raliegh used so steel pin of some sort with helical spirals on it. I guess they just drove it in when they built the bikes. I couldn't get it out to save my life, grrrrrr! So I had to make a 14 mile round trip to the hardware store to get a grinding stone for my drill. Came back and ground most of the protruding post down, cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned all the shavings out of the BB shell and then was finally able to proceed. Now the BB went in just fine and the new crank was on in minutes. I must be getter better at judging torque because I had the cranks bolts almost perfect when I took the torque wrench to them. Then it was a simple task of moving down the FD (endless band Suntour) and dial in the position. Wound up taking 4 links out of the chain. I'm going from a 53/39 crank to a 48/34. Then mounted up some temporary pedals and ran it for a little test. All gears combo's seem to work now, even the cross-chaining ones I won't ride. It will be nice having the 34/30 combo now for when it get's steep. I'm thinking of going with different tires though. Not a fan of the knobbies now that I have been riding them awhile. Just have to decide what to use.
Panaracer Race C Evo. Very good tires. They go up to 700x28c. I'm using 700x26c version and I like them very much. Good grip, comfortable and look good. Or, if you want something that doesn't look classic, Michelin Lithion 3, though I don't think they live up to what I expected when riding in wet conditions. No problem on the road, but I have a bit of surface in my area covered in pavement bricks and Lithions are not doing that hot with that kind of surface. I had them in 700x25c and found them more comfortable than some other tires in 700x28c I use.
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Old 07-10-23, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Panaracer Race C Evo. Very good tires. They go up to 700x28c. I'm using 700x26c version and I like them very much. Good grip, comfortable and look good. Or, if you want something that doesn't look classic, Michelin Lithion 3, though I don't think they live up to what I expected when riding in wet conditions. No problem on the road, but I have a bit of surface in my area covered in pavement bricks and Lithions are not doing that hot with that kind of surface. I had them in 700x25c and found them more comfortable than some other tires in 700x28c I use.
Oops, should have mentioned. The main purpose for this one is light gravel use where I live. So pavement to the gravel but it's main purpose is off pavement riding.
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Old 07-10-23, 09:47 PM
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Here is the big secret from my last post, the mystery bike is... A 1983 Serotta Nova Special in almost new condition, not bad for a 40 year old frame, I could not be happier.
Now for the details, 53X53 frame with 126mm spacing (but not for long), Frame weight 1841gr (4.058lb), Fork weight 632gr (1.393lb), Total weight 2473gr (5.452lb). Columbus SL tubing with splined tubing for the seatpost and steer tube, Cinelli bottom bracket and fork crown, Shimano dropouts. About average weight for a steel race frame of this spec. More later.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

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Old 07-10-23, 11:49 PM
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Had my bought-but-never-ridden 1980 Trek 510 frameset (my second) built as a complete bike earlier this year, set for sale. Never built it up for myself. Loved the (repaint) purple, even as it has faded dramatically in random ways all over the bike. Scratches and other blemishes, too. No decals, no head badge. I paid more money for the frame than I should have (retail space), educatedly gambling on the chance it was a 710. But hey, a 510 ain't bad at all. I had and sold a 1979/1980 510 in the gorgeous Chestnut Brown after deciding to downsize and concluding that it's serene in-saddle manner coupled with its strong indifference when out of saddle was not in my interest. That's probably what drove a bit of the straight-to-sale building of this purple 510.

Before Velocals closed, I picked up the necessary decals to make it complete, whether I kept the frameset as is or repainted/coated it. A couple of weeks ago, after having the bike for sale, I said to heck with it, I'm putting on these decals (and a spare Trek head badge bought from Recycled Cycles). I still loved the color, and really liked it with the black components and tan wall tires. Didn't want to part with it, and felt bad for the frameset that I never made it mine (and thus gave it a fair chance to be in the fleet). I didn't even wax the paint or polish the exterior of the headset, that's how "not mine" I'd kept it. So, being bored and wanting to make it "something," I decided to put black electrical tape on the silver seat post and stem to get an approximate idea of how making the bike "more black" would look. This is what I started with:



The FSA Vero triple crankset takes a square taper BB and I needed a long enough one to get it to clear the frame. This resulted in a q-factor of about 167mm IIRC, which is a mile away from the 146mm road (double) norm, and what all my bikes are set to since my knees are particular. Another reason to not even recreationally ride this, even if this 3x9 system shifts sublimely.

Regardless, the black electrical tape mockup told me that more black was a very good thing, especially gloss black. This gladdened my heart, and off I went rummaging around my bins for things, swapping one carbon seat post for another with my Orbea, and here is the result (minus the saddle being 1/4" too high, in fading light). It is looking very good and enabled me to assess more of the bike's out-of-saddle character. So far so good/not bad. The next stage is the present Alexrim DA16 wheels going away for a yet-to-be-built wheelset of the exact color composition: black hubs, black spokes, silver nipples, and black rims with machined sidewalls. I have a pair of 105 5600 hubs and previously-laced black Open Pros. Just picked up 14 ga black spokes and silver (brass) nipples. This will get rid of the semi-yuck (on a vintage bike) radially-spoked front wheel, the uneven spoke count, and a heavier wheelset. A used FSA Gossamer double crankset and BB combo was picked up for cheap. That will shed weight there after I shed nearly a pound from swapping out the seat post, stem, bars and headset for what you see below.

I've had some bike sales lately, and have more for sale presently, that is what is funding things. I'm aiming at primarily a vintage Trek fleet. Their size, beauty/attractiveness, ride quality, and friendly standards used are things I really appreciate. So anyway, that's my sitrep--moving the chains on this 510 and my blue '82 715.

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Old 07-11-23, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer
Here is the big secret from my last post, the mystery bike is... A 1983 Serotta Nova Special in almost new condition, not bad for a 40 year old frame, I could not be happier.
Now for the details, 53X53 frame with 126mm spacing (but not for long), Frame weight 1841gr (4.058lb), Fork weight 632gr (1.393lb), Total weight 2473gr (5.452lb). Columbus SL tubing with splined tubing for the seatpost and steer tube, Cinelli bottom bracket and fork crown, Shimano dropouts. About average weight for a steel race frame of this spec. More later.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

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..........That's a nice looking frame!
Best, Ben
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Old 07-12-23, 11:25 AM
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Inner brake cables for my Autumn / Winter bicycle finally arrived. Not the ones I wanted (I bought stainless, got sent galvanised), but at least it's road worthy again and 600EX conversion is complete. I realised that the play in the RD is definitely affecting the shifting, so will have to think how to eliminate that issue. Basically, I need to overshift the lowest sprocket (thanks heaven I can do that), otherwise the derailleur's cage won't get there, no matter what I do with the adjusting screws. Should've gone for the Suntour Vx or something, no play in any of Suntour derailleurs I have and they are older!
Temporary solution was switching Shimano shifters into friction mode. Funny thing is that after using friction shifting only over the past few months, indexed shifting started feeling clunky. So I will probably look for some Shimano ratcheting shifters from early to mid 80's. And at some point there's a plan of finding some good MA40 rims and rebuilding wheels on them (currently MA2).

Managed to also complete the wheelset to clear out and did a test ride to make sure everything's OK before I can let anyone use them. That went alright, so now they are off the bicycle, cleaned and ready. These are Tiagra 4500 hubs on Exal XR2 rims. I feel like lighter hubs could be better, but on the bright side, rims are light, so the whole wheelset is a bit lighter thanks to that. And the Tiagra hubs are very good actually. Were I interested in riding anything that has more than 7 sprockets at the back, I think they'd make good hubs for daily use.
I have to say XR2 are still some of my favourite rims to build on. Very quick to build on. Sturdy. Reasonably light. I've seen opinions that they are impossible to pur tyres on, so did some tests and the conclusion is that with 700x23, yes, that's pretty much impossible. But anything wider is perfectly fine. I tried them with 700x28 (Exal recommends 700x25 maximum, but 28's seem to be just fine) this time and there was absolutely no issue. I did have to use tire levers, but the process was absolutely painless and took no time.



Yes, 600EX can handle 8 speeds. Not sure it would be the case with largest sprocket bigger than 21T

Finished wheelset

I like the finish on Tiagra 4500 hubs. Shame they are not a bit lighter, but the finish is great
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