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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 08-05-23, 05:44 AM
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A very nice Cervelo gravel bike yesterday. Replace the tires with Sworks rubber, new metal brake pads, new chain...was immersed. It uses a GRX drivetrain, mechanical, and that is running great. The tires are tubeless and set up quite nicely on Roval wheels.
It was a fun project.
Also replaced the BB bearings.
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Old 08-05-23, 07:06 AM
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@Desert Ryder I'm not sure if this will work on a bicycle, but on my 2002 KLR motorcycle, I used compressed air to pop them out. I had a regular blow nozzle & wrapped the tip with electrical tape to act as sort of a seal, leaving a path for the air to get through. Protect your eyes. That's how the manual said to do it. The bike was sitting outside for about 7 years and after cleaning, just used brake fluid to clean the rubber parts, they work fine. No leaks. The rubber all looked good & pliable once cleaned with brake fluid. Surprisingly, didn't find any corrosion on the metal parts either.
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Old 08-05-23, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Hobbiano
@Desert Ryder I'm not sure if this will work on a bicycle, but on my 2002 KLR motorcycle, I used compressed air to pop them out. I had a regular blow nozzle & wrapped the tip with electrical tape to act as sort of a seal, leaving a path for the air to get through. Protect your eyes. That's how the manual said to do it. The bike was sitting outside for about 7 years and after cleaning, just used brake fluid to clean the rubber parts, they work fine. No leaks. The rubber all looked good & pliable once cleaned with brake fluid. Surprisingly, didn't find any corrosion on the metal parts either.
Yeah. Same way to remove car caliper pistons. I actually don't need to remove them completely. When the front broke free there was a quick "snap" sound. That was the pistons breaking free because after that I could feel the pressure on my finger which was between the pistons.I was planning on putting a caliper block in it and using the air nozzle to blow in the air.
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Old 08-05-23, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by gaucho777
I was 11, turned 12, living in SoCal, during the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles. Watching Alexi Grewal win gold in the Ď84 Olympic Road Race is what sparked my interest in road cycling.
I was there in Mission Viejo as well in '84. Still have a bottle that a rider tossed from the peloton that day.
We'll see what they come up with in 2028...
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Old 08-05-23, 04:35 PM
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I have been lugging around this 1986 Univega Arrowpace for maybe three years. I bought it for $24.99 from the local Salvation Army mainly to stay in the good graces of Calvin, the guy who sorts out their stuff and tips me off when they get interesting bikes. Also, I felt sorry for it.

I had finally fitted nearly new tires from another part-out earlier this week. Today I hauled the bike out onto the porch and went to work. The wheels, which barely turned, were freed of the nearly solid glue the original grease had become, everything in the hubs was cleaned, and behold, the cheap SR hubs run pretty smoothly now. The bottom bracket was worse - but cleaned up easily and is shockingly slick and smooth running now. I squirted Tri-Flow into the cable housings and called it done, more Tri-Flow into the derailleur pivots, fished a used chain out of the hoard and used the 1-foot long fragment of black Tresso in the box to wrap the Grab-Ons where they are torn.

Itís actually not a bad bike - Iíll post it for sale because it would be a great invisible-to-thieves campus bike, but if it doesnít sell I could see keeping it as a beater Ö.



A good 20 footer Ö

I was going to replace the rusted steel chainrings with alloy but the chainring bolts are rusted solid. If it doesnít sell Iíll pull the crank and drop it into a vat of Evapo-Rust and see what that gets me.

The turkey levers work okay for speed modulation but meh. The stem shifters worked well, too.

Tre-tubi, and originally sold in Greenville. A part of me died when The Great Escape, one of the two bike boom era shops there, became a Trek store.

Decent from the non-drive side

For a cheap bike, thatís a lovely seat stay treatment.

It may be a stamped crown, but itís a nice stamped crown!
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Old 08-05-23, 07:55 PM
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This is always my favorite day, the Serotta is in its final configuration now with all Dura-Ace 7703 and 7803 set up as a 10 X 3 with a 11-27 titanium Dura Ace cassette. Tonight is fine tuning and a short list of details, then finally the first ride... Woot

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Glamor Photos sometime tomorrow

: Mike
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Old 08-05-23, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer
This is always my favorite day, the Serotta is in its final configuration now with all Dura-Ace 7703 and 7803 set up as a 10 X 3 with a 11-27 titanium Dura Ace cassette. Tonight is fine tuning and a short list of details, then finally the first ride... Woot

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Glamor Photos sometime tomorrow

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Well, first ride we will expect something besides a garage door shot. Glamor yes...

Where'd You Ride Today? (New & Improved)
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Old 08-05-23, 10:33 PM
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I'm having serious fun... Not that it is recommended but this thing will hit all 10 gears on all 3 rings with no complaining and minor trimming of the front derailleur to kill the rattles, B tension is critical but if you get it right it's magic.

Big Big.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

In The Middle.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Small Small.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike
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Old 08-06-23, 04:53 PM
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Random photos, ready to ride as soon as it cools off a bit.

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Good To Go...
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Old 08-06-23, 05:20 PM
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Building a touring bike finally. Phase A: Wheels!

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Old 08-06-23, 07:06 PM
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I picked up Mavic MA40 wheelset yesterday and today started getting on with it. The wheels themself were actually build OK, though the logos on the hubs were not alligned properly, so I suspect they were home made.
The rims are in a decent condition and should be alright for some time, but the eyelets had a bit of ugly surface rust. Not the visible side of the eyelets, the bits under the rim tape. That's quite frequent on used wheels in the UK and whilst not much of a problem, I still wanted to hit these eyelets with some RD-90 and a wire brush bit on the rotary tool. Result is not perfect, but acceptable. The wheels of course had to be unlaced for that (which was on cards anyway, they are to be laced to different hubs). So the rims were thoroughly cleaned, tatty decals were removed (I'll have to order new ones at some point), eyelets de-rusted as much as possible, spokes cleaned and examined, nipples cleaned and prepared to be used again. Quite a bit of tedious work.
The hubs I got with the rims were Campy Athena (apparently, no markings on them). The rear one missing the axle and freehub body. I was hoping to transplant these bits from a Veloce I got recently, but that's not going to work. The freehub body would fit (it seems, didn't try in the end), but the hub I got with the wheels uses cartridge bearings, so I can't use the axle from the Veloce (which uses loose bearing balls). I still cleaned it up, perhaps some day I'll find an axle and freehub body for it and it will get to be used again. I've also cleaned and repacked the front one. Though it's no use either, run out of the bearing balls in the correct size, so had to put the old ones in. I mean, it can be used, but the bearing balls should really be replaced.
One of the reasons I got this particular set of MA40 wheels was the hubs. This obvioulsy didn't work out quite as expected. Oh well, eventually the hubs will get used someday and the whole set was cheap, so no biggie.

Plan B was to put the Veloce hub I recently cleaned back together and use it for the rear hub. I hope I've done it okay. I'm not used to adjusting Campy hubs. Seems to be spinnng well and the freehub body turns as it should. For the front wheel I'm using a Campy Xenon hub. Rims I took off a faulty e-bike I was given some time ago. The wheels on that abomination were probably the worst built wheels I've seen to date, but were built for disc brakes, so the breaking surface of the rims was intact. I do have a bit of a problem when it comes to the spokes. Looks like I don't have any that would be perfect length for the combo, so we'll see how they turn out. The ones I had on hand are between 1 and 2mm too long for the front, 1mm too long on the rear DS and 1mm too short on the rear NDS. At least on paper, we'll see what's what when I tighten them tomorrow. Might just be okay, though I still wish I had some nipple washers to have a bit more of a leeway when it comes to spoke length. Worst case scenario, I do have some other options, but for now I'm going to see whether this combo works alright.


From the left: Athena rear hub shell, Athena front hub, Veloce rear hub, Xenon front hub.

Here's hoping the selected spokes will do the trick. Plain gauge DT Swiss

Both wheels laced. Truing tomorrow
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Old 08-06-23, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer
I'm having serious fun... Not that it is recommended but this thing will hit all 10 gears on all 3 rings with no complaining and minor trimming of the front derailleur to kill the rattles, B tension is critical but if you get it right it's magic.

Big Big.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr

snip . . .

: Mike
Beautiful bike and build. Triples can be tough to set up right on short wheelbase bikes. That's great that you got this working so well.
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Old 08-06-23, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Beautiful bike and build. Triples can be tough to set up right on short wheelbase bikes. That's great that you got this working so well.
I learned some tricks this time, I followed Shimano's instructions to the letter and its perfect, so much so that I'm planning on revisiting the Bob Jackson Audax Club as it has the identical set up and i did not realize it could be this good.
The first ride went really well, the bike is a climber, fast and quick handling, classic criterium bike. Later this evening the saddle is moving forward about 6 or 7mm as I was spending a lot of the ride on the nose. Thanks for the complements

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Old 08-07-23, 11:39 AM
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I finally got around to putting SKS longboard fenders on my Motobťcane Grand Touring. Just messing around in the garage, sliding the fender around the installed parts, things didn't look too promising. But after removing the rear brake and the rack, and popping the wheel in and out, it became clear how to do the setup. There's about 10 mm of space at the tightest spot, which is under the brake bridge as usual. The fender line looks pretty good even so. The front still needs a little work, and then the fender stays need to be cut short. Right now it sits with 27x1-1/4 Paselas, and there is going to be plenty of room with 700x32 or even bigger tires.

The Moto is a really nice ride, and it works so well in friction mode that I'm thinking of going all Cino on it and using old parts -- so I mounted a 40 cm Cinelli bar (off a Trek 620) and Dia-Compe brake levers (Trek 710) and I'm going on a 30-miler later today to see if I like it. I do have a 44 cm Noodle waiting, which is my go-to bar for this sort of thing, but sometimes The Old Ways Are The Best Ways. Except the freewheel, which is a modern Shimano 14/28 six and shifts much better than the accursed 14/32 five that came on it. That brought it all back, and not in a good way.

I really like this bike and after this season I'm going to make it my commuting and bad-weather bicycle.

cheers -mathias

Last edited by steine13; 08-07-23 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Misspelled Cino. I'm mortified.
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Old 08-07-23, 12:17 PM
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Nice Moto. Very similar colour to one of mine.
As for the mudguards, not that my ways are the best (probably very far from it) but with the front one I tend to put the mounting plate inside the steerer. That tends to be tedious, require modifications, adding plastic bushing and so forth, but it allows the front mudguard wrap around the front wheel a bit nicer and without gaps. Tedious process and there are mudguards that use similar way (Gilles Berthoud), but they don't make them narrow enough for me.

Speaking of Motobecane, today I took my Grand Sprint for the final ride (and to take some photos of it to remember how great it looks). I need to clear some space and with a heavy heart I've put it for sale recently. With a heavy heart, because it was my first bicycle that wasn't a piece of junk. A bicycle that gave me the experience of what a real bicycle should feel like. I learned a lot working on it and it converted me fully to C&V as the only proper way to go (or ride). It went through several iterations, from 1056 gruppo, through 6400 to finaly end up being somewhat period correct and L'Eroica ready with Suntour Vx-S and Suntour Power Shifters. Thankfully, it didn't sell. I mean it would, if I went down with price even more, but decided it makes no sense whatsoever. I was planning to use the funds for another project, but I guess I will have to think of some other way. I decided to disassemble it today and store everything away because most interactions I had with it recently was to dust it off every now and then. Which is doing a disservice to a nice ride. It might have never been top of the line, but a very well made machine nevertheless.

Perhaps it will come back one day as something else. I'll have to send it to a frame builder at some point, as the brake bridge needs some attention and perhaps it would be good to restore the cable guides on the top tube. For a moment I was thinking about turning it into a single speed or just another commuting bike with cheap components (I have some Altus components, flat bars etc.). Now I'm thinking: perhaps 1x8 with inernal gear hub is the way (Nemosengineer inspired)? We shall see. The frame is now wrapped in paper and stored away. I still need to wipe out all the components and weigh them. But today, one bicycle went from this:

Motobecane Grand Sprint 1979, customised
to this:

Ecce Velo

Last edited by VintageSteelEU; 08-07-23 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 08-07-23, 08:13 PM
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Raleigh Gran Sport

It took me a while to get this early 70s Raleigh Gran Sport on the road but I finally put it together this weekend and took it on a 25 mile ride today. It took me a while to build as it had a few niggling issues I finally sorted out I'm really happy with how the bike rides and how it came out. It's light and responsive and handles rough stuff well. I built it with generous gearing (50/34 crank, 13-30 6 speed freewheel) and wide volume tires (700 x 35c). The bike is a parts bin build (other than the consumables, handlebar and stem). Somedays you build a new (old) bike and it just puts a smile on your face. This one did.





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Old 08-08-23, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
It took me a while to get this early 70s Raleigh Gran Sport on the road but I finally put it together this weekend and took it on a 25 mile ride today. It took me a while to build as it had a few niggling issues I finally sorted out I'm really happy with how the bike rides and how it came out. It's light and responsive and handles rough stuff well. I built it with generous gearing (50/34 crank, 13-30 6 speed freewheel) and wide volume tires (700 x 35c). The bike is a parts bin build (other than the consumables, handlebar and stem). Somedays you build a new (old) bike and it just puts a smile on your face. This one did.




These are brand new MA40s, arent's they? Where on Earth did you get them from?
Looks like a pleasant trail
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Old 08-08-23, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
These are brand new MA40s, arent's they? Where on Earth did you get them from?
Looks like a pleasant trail
I get my old parts by harvesting them from other bikes. I picked up a Libertas with a full Reynolds 531 frame a few years back. These wheels came on the bike. The previous owner built up these wheels with new old stock mavic ma 40 wheels. The suntour hubs on these wheels are fine mechanically but are beat up cosmetically as the grey finish is peeling off a bit. I have different wheels I'll eventually put on this bike but these will do for now.
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Old 08-08-23, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
I get my old parts by harvesting them from other bikes. I picked up a Libertas with a full Reynolds 531 frame a few years back. These wheels came on the bike. The previous owner built up these wheels with new old stock mavic ma 40 wheels. The suntour hubs on these wheels are fine mechanically but are beat up cosmetically as the grey finish is peeling off a bit. I have different wheels I'll eventually put on this bike but these will do for now.
That's a very lucky find then. These rims in this shape can reach crazy prices these days. One of the reasons I'm more interested in vintage-looking modern rims these days, better value for money. The hubs look like late 80's (at least the front one, judging by the shell shape), so probably anodised. Not much can be done without a whole lot of work But I'd take Suntour hubs that are a bit tatty but work well over shiny stuff that is worn out
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Old 08-08-23, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
That's a very lucky find then. These rims in this shape can reach crazy prices these days. One of the reasons I'm more interested in vintage-looking modern rims these days, better value for money. The hubs look like late 80's (at least the front one, judging by the shell shape), so probably anodised. Not much can be done without a whole lot of work But I'd take Suntour hubs that are a bit tatty but work well over shiny stuff that is worn out
Maybe I need to put different wheels on the bike then and think about selling these wheels. The rims are close to new old stock for sure. I looked at sold prices on eBay and they don't look that crazy high to me but then most of the MA40s being sold aren't as clean as these are.

Yes the anodization has worn off the hubs but the cups and cones are smooth so the wheels are mechanically sound.

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Old 08-08-23, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
Maybe I need to put different wheels on the bike then and think about selling these wheels. The rims are close to new old stock for sure. I looked at sold prices on eBay and they don't look that crazy high to me but then most of the MA40s being sold aren't as clean as these are.

Yes the anodization has worn off the hubs but the cups and cones are smooth so the wheels are mechanically sound.
Clearly used ones but in good shape MA40 start from around $75. I've seen a single nearly pristine one for about $90. Then you have all the crazy prices (usually as wheelsets on Campy Record or Dura Ace) of $200. As often as not, the rims I can see in the photos are really not worth the price.
You might get lucky and find them cheaper, but the cheaper they are, the less clear the photos So as for yours unless you want to hide them away and sell in 20 years, there's not much point in selling them to replace with modern rims. If you have them. If you don't have them in the first place, it's better to go for new rims. For example, at least in Europe, you can get a new set of Ambrosio Excellence (similar weight, good quality, low profile rim) for around $100. If you want to save money and don't care much about the weight, Exal LX17 rims (or various Rigida rims or Mach1) are about $50 per set. Exal XR2 set is like $30 and light (not for narrow tyres though, unless you like swearing a lot). I personally like Exal (even the infamous XR2). They build well, they are reasonably light and sturdy. I'm pretty sure in the US there are other rims that are easily available, good and inexpensive.
I just got a wheelset built on MA40 and it was cheap, rims are in ok-ish shape and will be usable, but nowhere as pristine as yours. Though in all fairness, it was an impulse buy and I was hoping to use the hubs they were laced on as well. If not for that, I would probably get a set of LX17s, but as it's for a commuter bicycle, I'm not overly picky, so for now MA40s will do. Nice to keep the bicycle mostly period correct in some way, but with this one I'm mostly interested in reliability and durability.
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Old 08-08-23, 01:34 PM
  #6672  
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These came into the shop in need of some serious repair and parts replacement. I found most of the parts in the stash of Campy small parts I have here but when looking for some bits the parts costs are sky high. To build the levers from parts up would be over $200. I guess C&V is a rather small part of the universe, but it seems to be getting smaller.

Levers were missing some of the nylon washers for pivots, band clamp has the wrong nut assembly and needs one band, and the set screws for the pivots were missing.
I am going to rob a lever here to fix the set, but the small parts are hard to find. Smiles, MH
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Old 08-08-23, 03:59 PM
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Slowing getting to the Moulton, that has not been getting the love it deserves. Stripping off the straight bar and thumb shifters, old cycle computer. Started to do the same with the old brake cables, ran into something I don't quite get? These Modolo brakes, When I go to loosen the nut to release the cable, everything pivots. I am sure I can get this nut loose but is there a way I am supposed to do it?



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Old 08-08-23, 04:38 PM
  #6674  
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Also messing with the one part of the Cinelli that needs help, wrapped clamp-on grips. Don't like to swap out original parts, but I am thinking I might just ditch these? Not sure how to have them actually look good? Is there a trick to wrapping these? I could use the old pieces as a template, but have a hard time seeing how they would look or last? Cinelli makes an "Art grip" that looks the same or similar but not sure how it is assembled?




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Old 08-08-23, 05:05 PM
  #6675  
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SoCaled,
Th Modolo needs a hex bit put into the front of the round bolt. Pop the rubber cap out and see the fitting. The grips are a synthetic leather that breaks down in a short time. I have actual leather for grips if you want some. Golf grips use that same wrap design and I have a few natural leather grips that a customer didn't like, so I kept the leather wraps before I cut the under-listing off. PM me if you want the leather.

This is the leather wrap from four golf grips. It is more than you will need for your grip project. This leather is infused with paraffin to make it waterproof. You can use a bit of rubber cement to make it stay put when wrapping and it should hold the grip wrap in place.
My only caution is that if you ride it bare handed you may have some of the black dye on your hands until the grips are broken in. Lemme Know, Smiles, MH
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