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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 10-08-23, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
I guess Suntour was again ahead of everyone else, testing Biopace-like setup, but on the freewheels
It's the very rare 13-15-17-19-21-22-20 version.
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Old 10-08-23, 10:40 AM
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Old 10-08-23, 11:12 AM
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For me, the wrenching was an involuntary re-wax of the drive train and repack of greased bearings after getting stuck in a rain shower. Today, it looks like I can ride on dry roads as long as I dress for the cold.

Well to be honest, the bearings needed a repack anyhow.

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Old 10-08-23, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
I like the bend on these bars. Some time ago I got a bicycle equipped with Kusuki Medallion handlebar with a similar bend and I was initially sceptical (I'm used to Cinelli Campione del Mondo). Right now I find it way more comfortable than CdM.
That bend is a recent discovery for me also, it took about 2 hours of riding to figure out how to use them on the Serrota. Changing my mind on what to use on this build was a good decision, it was a why am I not using these bars moment.

I found a Very handy tool recently, a $30 dollar borescope from Amazon, It plugs into your Iphone, I was able to inspect the inside of all the frame tubes (except the seat stays). This is a photo of the back side of the dropout for the drive side chainstay. it shows good braze fill with minimal corrosion, it give you a good window into the build quality and condition of a used frame.

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Old 10-09-23, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
I like the bend on these bars. Some time ago I got a bicycle equipped with Kusuki Medallion handlebar with a similar bend and I was initially sceptical (I'm used to Cinelli Campione del Mondo). Right now I find it way more comfortable than CdM.
Agree. for a great period of my life on a bike, I rode Cinelli 65 bars, and there were a lot of nice positions for the hands with that bend. Trouble is now that I run Campy Ergo 10, the brakes would be way too low on the hooks, and I like them fairly low on my TTT ergo bars as it stands. BTW: that Nitto Craft stem is just gorgeous.

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Old 10-09-23, 01:59 PM
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Some time ago, I wanted to try the 65-40 bar. Finally aquired one, and took my time to mount it on my "mule" bike
It has been on there about a year, maybe more without a long enough ride.
Decided to take the "mule" on the vacation to Hilton Head Island. 20 miles later I am thinking of swapping all the 64s for 65s. Better fit for my hands on the upper bend.
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Old 10-10-23, 10:28 AM
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I was up at sunrise trying to finish this Trek for the Recycle Your Bicycle program. It seems to be ready to go, except it needs four new cantilever brake shoes which I don't have on hand at the moment. I'll take it in and get it finished up so it's ready for donation. Looks like it'll turn out nice.

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Old 10-10-23, 12:09 PM
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Phase 1 garage rethinking complete. Holds 10 bikes in 84 inches.

Phases 2 and 3 to come.



Paint-phase 1

General structure

6 bikes up.

Had to notch the board a bit to lessen the load on the tire. Tire needs air.
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Old 10-10-23, 04:26 PM
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Got called in for some urgent catch-up work at Recycle Your Bicycle, so I abandoned my paying clients, picked up a friend, and high-tailed it to the east edge of town to spend a whole day wrenching.

First I finished the Trek, and put a stop to the cantilever problems with brand new shoes.




Then on to other bikes. This one looks tired.



Then turning my tender attention to a sickly Sikk, which received a bit of rattle-can therapy to the ape-hangers.




And the season has barely begun!
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Old 10-10-23, 09:11 PM
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Postscript: Sikk turned out reasonably sweet.



Worked a couple smaller bikes too.

"Execute General Order 66."
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Old 10-11-23, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RCMoeur
First I finished the Trek, and put a stop to the cantilever problems with brand new shoes.
The cantilever brakes on my recently refurbished '86 Schwinn Voyageur need some help. The shoes are probably the originals.
What replacements would you recommend?

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Old 10-11-23, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Sierra
The cantilever brakes on my recently refurbished '86 Schwinn Voyageur need some help. The shoes are probably the originals.
What replacements would you recommend?
I switched most of my personal post-mount brakes over to direct-pull decades ago. And the replacement cantilever shoes we use at RYB are intended for function and affordability, not performance. But I've had good experiences with Kool-Stop pads.
https://koolstop.com/collections/int...ost-cantilever
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Old 10-11-23, 10:53 AM
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I'd go with the Cross Pad cantilever; smooth post, with the ability to switch out just the rubber. The dual compound has plenty of bite. When it's time to change the pads, you won't have to fiddle with re-doing the setup. The pads are also short enough that they shouldn't interfere with the fork blades.
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Old 10-11-23, 11:48 AM
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A set of Tektro 539 sidepull dual pivot caliper brakes will bolt right on there, give you superior braking, and will interface perfectly with those levers.
Yes, I know it’s heresy, but it was the best braking improvement I made on my 87 Voy after trying a number of other options.
No more squealing! Great modulation! Room for fenders!
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Old 10-12-23, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rccardr
A set of Tektro 539 sidepull dual pivot caliper brakes will bolt right on there, give you superior braking, and will interface perfectly with those levers.
Yes, I know itís heresy, but it was the best braking improvement I made on my 87 Voy after trying a number of other options.
No more squealing! Great modulation! Room for fenders!
I'm not averse to changing things up. I like to "upgrade" my bikes when I can.
Do you have a thread on changing the brakes on your Voyageur?
I remember one where the cantilever posts had to be cut off for clearance of the new brakes. I would prefer not to do that.
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Old 10-12-23, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Sierra
I'm not averse to changing things up. I like to "upgrade" my bikes when I can.
Do you have a thread on changing the brakes on your Voyageur?
I remember one where the cantilever posts had to be cut off for clearance of the new brakes. I would prefer not to do that.
Nope, no cutting required, completely reversable. Use Tektro 539's of the nutted variety.
Works with original DiaCompe non-aero brake levers or the aero ones you have currently mounted.
Room for fenders and racks.
Pics to illustrate:


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Old 10-12-23, 08:24 AM
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As much as my love of cantilevers compels me to disagree, it's difficult to argue with rccardr's advice. My only, purely aesthetic, gripe (which I use jovially) is with the vacant canti-posts. Otherwise, I agree with everything he's said.

The 539's also make the 27" to 700c conversion much less hassle. Voyageur cantilever post placement limits you to vintage cantilevers with a good amount of vertical adjustment. Even then, you'd have to set them up in a way that compromises optimal mechanical advantage. Although, if you intend to stick to 27" wheels and tires, I'd suggest trying some Kool-Stops first
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Old 10-12-23, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Rooney
As much as my love of cantilevers compels me to disagree, it's difficult to argue with rccardr's advice. My only, purely aesthetic, gripe (which I use jovially) is with the vacant canti-posts. Otherwise, I agree with everything he's said.

The 539's also make the 27" to 700c conversion much less hassle. Voyageur cantilever post placement limits you to vintage cantilevers with a good amount of vertical adjustment. Even then, you'd have to set them up in a way that compromises optimal mechanical advantage. Although, if you intend to stick to 27" wheels and tires, I'd suggest trying some Kool-Stops first
What's wrong with cantilevers though? Plenty of variety when it comes to the pads, KoolStop in the US or Fibrax in the UK are sure to have compatible stuff. As for the mounts, if I had that issue, I would probably think about re-purposing them for mounting lights
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Old 10-12-23, 09:41 PM
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Back at Recycle Your Bicycle today for more wrenchin'.

Mostly routine two-wheel rehabilitation, but saw a couple odd things.

Don't usually see a front wheel dished like this...



Then worked on a bicycle with a braking system I hadn't encountered before. What first caught my attention was two brakes, but one lever and only one cable from the lever. The right rear brake shoe is connected to the front brake cable, and when the shoe engages it slides forward and pulls the front brake arms together. Not easy to adjust...


(cable in foreground runs from right rear brake shoe to the front brake assembly)

Braking performance was... adequate, but I wasn't able to get anywhere near locking the front prior to skidding the rear.

We'll see what fun Saturday brings...
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Old 10-12-23, 11:17 PM
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Rossin Progress. Cinderella goes to rehab, Super Record lever set overhaul...

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Old 10-13-23, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RCMoeur
Then worked on a bicycle with a braking system I hadn't encountered before. What first caught my attention was two brakes, but one lever and only one cable from the lever. The right rear brake shoe is connected to the front brake cable, and when the shoe engages it slides forward and pulls the front brake arms together. Not easy to adjust...

...
I worked on one of those systems a couple of months ago. Yup, I was quite puzzled over it for a while but figured it out. It was on an expensive kids bike. I decided that it meant only one brake lever (good for small children) but still gave them rear and front brakes with front brake engagement lagging the rear a wee bit. One of the few Iíve seen that have a front brake. Canít argue with the objectives.
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Old 10-13-23, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Rooney
As much as my love of cantilevers compels me to disagree, it's difficult to argue with rccardr's advice. My only, purely aesthetic, gripe (which I use jovially) is with the vacant canti-posts. Otherwise, I agree with everything he's said.

The 539's also make the 27" to 700c conversion much less hassle. Voyageur cantilever post placement limits you to vintage cantilevers with a good amount of vertical adjustment. Even then, you'd have to set them up in a way that compromises optimal mechanical advantage. Although, if you intend to stick to 27" wheels and tires, I'd suggest trying some Kool-Stops first
Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
What's wrong with cantilevers though? Plenty of variety when it comes to the pads, KoolStop in the US or Fibrax in the UK are sure to have compatible stuff. As for the mounts, if I had that issue, I would probably think about re-purposing them for mounting lights
Thanks to all who answered.
I'm going to try the Kool-Stop shoes with the cantilevers first and If I'm still not happy with the braking I'll go with the Tektro brakes.
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Old 10-13-23, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sierra
Thanks to all who answered.
I'm going to try the Kool-Stop shoes with the cantilevers first and If I'm still not happy with the braking I'll go with the Tektro brakes.
The only brakes I worked on to date I absolutely despise are V-brakes. OK, not big on disc ones either, but they are usually not my problem On all sidepulls, I noticed that the first thing affecting braking efficiency is usually the cable length. If that's OK, pads, unless badly worn out, are usually OK. I still use Superbe pads on one of the bicycles and they work perfectly fine (great, actually). OK, they squeal like all devils, but these pads are 40 years old. I kept them before I find suitable replacement because they were lightly used throughout these 40 years, but somehow they've been on the bicycle for months now as I still didn't have the time to replace them.

Tektro are pretty good. From what I noticed bolts have a tendency to get a bit of a surface rust, but that's easy to address.
If you're doing conversion to 700c, there's always the option of getting the braze-on mounts removed (though that means at least partial re-painting of the frame). And then there's another option worth checking out: modern cantilever brakes. Like Dia Compe model 999. Wouldn't be surpised if they were made to fit 700c rims. Might depend on the rim thickness, perhaps?

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Old 10-13-23, 01:29 PM
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I absolutely adore cantilevers. I think the arms can be designed to be the most beautiful components on a bike. When properly set up, I have full faith in their stopping ability. That said, I fully understand peopleís frustration with setting them up. Theyíre not too hard to get right, but they do require a little more consideration. It seems like Sierra is gonna give them a shot with new pads first, which Iím excited to see, but itís also good they know thereís another option

Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
What's wrong with cantilevers though? Plenty of variety when it comes to the pads, KoolStop in the US or Fibrax in the UK are sure to have compatible stuff. As for the mounts, if I had that issue, I would probably think about re-purposing them for mounting lights
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Old 10-13-23, 08:54 PM
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I took care of a bunch of loose ends today. On the 71 PX10 upright guest bike Iíve been throwing together, I found out the hard way that 27x1-3/8 Swift Sand Canyon tires are tall enough to rub the bottom of fork crown. I snagged a pair of regular Paselas from Somaís last sale and mounted them. While I was at it I replaced zip ties with proper top tube cable clips from same said sale, mounted an old front rack and cheesy barrel bag up front, and hung a tail light on it. Also had to finesse the rear shifter location. All seems well and itís ready for a visitor.

Next I tackled an old high-flange Dura-Ace rear hub thatís been eluding proper adjustment and working itself loose. I think I nailed it this time. Itís on my Falcon, and because of that issue I be at ridden it much this season. Iíll try to ride it on Sunday.

Then I gave some attention to a neighborsí Specialized Sirrus thatís been hanging for a decade. He needs to get back into action and I volunteered to take care of whatever needs doing. Out of the gate was a drive side broken spoke so tomorrow Iíll see if the local shops happen to have one (black, no less). Other than a quick check and wipe down I didnít spot anything else thatís malfunctioning. Clean and lube, new brake blocks and tires, and he should be good to go.
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