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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 12-26-23, 05:42 PM
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Glad yer on the bike again! Smiles, MH
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Old 12-26-23, 07:35 PM
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Finished the rim swap, replaced Gentleman clinchers with new old tubulars for the Paramount. I got lucky inasmuch as the old spokes were the right size for the rims, and in great shape. Just new nipples. So the wheelset is now Schwinn Approved 330 tubulars (may be Super Champion Arc en Ciel), Campagnolo Nuovo Record high flange hubs, DT 14 gauge spokes and Vittoria Corsa Graphene 2.0 30mm tires. For now the tires are stretching until a shipment of Effeto Mariposa Carogna adhesive arrives.


Nicest truing station I've ever had!

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Old 12-27-23, 04:01 PM
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Worked on this beasty again. Painting turns out to be hard during the cold, wet and short days of winter but I'm slowly getting there.

Today I made a start to put everything back together again. Still need some parts that were not available before christmas but I'll get them.



Drilled the steel handlebars and added some room for internal dynamo wiring.







All of this was made possible because these handlebars are designed for this and have room for wiring stock from the factory.


New (and complete) set of ball bearings and grease on the headset.


All in all it is shaping up to be a nice bike but I will need to source a new bottom bracket axle for the cottered cranks. The right hand side must have worked itself loose at some point and has cracked on the interface between the axle and the cotter. But I have a good source on those in this country.

The wiring inside the headtube... is going to be a fun adventure for the next person that ever needs to take out the handlebars. Let's just hope that's me.
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Old 12-28-23, 11:34 AM
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Finished the new wheelset for my 70ties road bike. H+ SON TB14 rims, laced to 600 AX hubs and Sapim D-Light spokes. Came out to 1946 g - quite okay for a 36 spoked wheel.

Last edited by Positron400; 12-28-23 at 01:36 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-30-23, 06:11 PM
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I spent the day today sorting Campy small parts and putting them in some type of order. Took a bunch of time taking packages apart and putting them in a compartment box, but it made a huge pile of packages into a single box. Smiles, MH

Lots of small items all in a single space.

The NOS things like dropout adjusters are now visible and easy to find

More of the NOS stuff like a new rear cage plate and adjustor springs

There were plenty of replacement items that frequently get lost like washers for shift levers
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Old 12-30-23, 08:19 PM
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Rebuilt my Park Tool chain cleaner. I've been putting it off for years and it was pretty full of gunk. I had a replacement sponge waiting which made it worthwhile. I wish there was a foam/sponge/whatever that would not disintegrate like they do. WHAT A DIFFERENCE A NEW SPONGE MAKES. Putting newspaper below the chain was hardly necessary.

Finally removed the thorn and patched my Sprinter tubular. Lucky to find the puncture line up with the base tape seam.
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Old 12-30-23, 09:00 PM
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Disassembled the RD on my rusty Carabela and cleaned the FD best I felt like doing. Fortunately the RD's parallelogram is aluminum or it would have been a mess. The FD's cage was a mess and besides the rust, there is enough wear from chain rub that the original owner had to be harder of hearing than me. I'm getting closer to accepting that I'll probably go ahead and put this piece of crap back together instead of just salvaging the parts.
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Old 12-30-23, 11:53 PM
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Accomplished my goal of rehabbing a 88 Black Lightning before years end. Still needs new tires. But the ones on the bike hold air. I found tuning the Suntour indexed RD/shifter difficult. I was getting frustrated yesterday, so I quit late in the afternoon. First thing this morning I went back to the beginning and voilà, had it shifting well enough for a ride in just over half an hour. Made it with a day to spare.

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Old 12-31-23, 01:39 AM
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So, while looking around on eBay, I came across this Moulton Stowaway. I had been looking a bike which I could put into the trunk of my car, and drop off at our holiday house in Kamakura, and I had always wanted an old Moulton anyway. I offered the buyer $200 for the bike, shipping was another $90, and the bike arrived to me in Japan only a week later.



Though the bike was ridable, it was rusty, the bar, stem, and front wheel were especially bad. I stripped off the old paint and rust, bought a rust-free front wheel with a dynamo hub, replaced the swing arm bushing and all the bearings, added the Dia Compe dual pivot brake, Nitto stem and bar, and a Paul brake lever.



I repainted the bike with British racing green from a spray can, and while not perfect, it didn’t come out too badly. I’m still on the hunt for a clean Sturmey Archer front lamp. I got a start on replacing the galvanized spokes with stainless, I’ll eventually get them all done. In the meantime, the bike rides very well, the new front brake greatly increased stopping power even with the chrome steel wheel. The two-speed hub works perfectly well, and is adequate to get around the neighborhood. I ordered an original bag/trunk for the rear carrier, and that should arrive in a couple weeks or so.

For those who haven’t tried one, these old Moultons are fantastic little bikes.
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Old 12-31-23, 02:28 AM
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That's a lovely job on that Moulton. Even the pedals match great.
I see that the saddle is still original. It is quite good I assume? It looks similar in style to some saddles where you can feel the springs sticking out (no offense).
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Old 12-31-23, 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DanseMacabre
That's a lovely job on that Moulton. Even the pedals match great.
I see that the saddle is still original. It is quite good I assume? It looks similar in style to some saddles where you can feel the springs sticking out (no offense).
I have a new Brooks Flyer which I am planning to install, I’m just waiting for a new seat post. The current seat is in quite good shape, and the padding is intact, so I can’t feel the springs. It is remarkably comfortable, and I can see why these seats were popular back in the day. But the springs are creaky and the saddle makes some noise, and it is too flexy for me.

The pedals are 60’s vintage MKS made in Japan. One good thing about living in Japan is that there is no shortage of new vintage Japanese parts. Unfortunately, Sturmey Archer stuff is a little harder to find.
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Old 12-31-23, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck M
Disassembled the RD on my rusty Carabela and cleaned the FD best I felt like doing. Fortunately the RD's parallelogram is aluminum or it would have been a mess. The FD's cage was a mess and besides the rust, there is enough wear from chain rub that the original owner had to be harder of hearing than me. I'm getting closer to accepting that I'll probably go ahead and put this piece of crap back together instead of just salvaging the parts.
I like Compe V. Or the idea of having the left shifter always (or almost always as I seldom have use for the smaller chainring) parallel to the downtube. I've got one in my parts bin, new and shiny. The only problem is that I don't have a frame it would work with as it requires more clearance between the seat tube and the rear mudguard / tyre than any of the frames I have. The idea is to pair it with Vx (also NOS) and Power Shifters on some nice touring frame built up for comfort, not weight reduction and speed.
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Old 12-31-23, 10:27 AM
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I was thinking I gave $15 for the Carabela but I came across correspondence I had with the seller and it turns out it was only $10. The bar cons I figured were worth several times that. But it seems like the best part of them is the outside locknut is still there. One expansion screw broke and the other is seized. I could probably still get my ten bucks back selling these for parts, but now for some odd reason I want to commit to putting this heaping pile back together. I can fix these.
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Old 12-31-23, 12:18 PM
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Well for the next hour or two I'll be wrenching on this 05 Bianchi Giro I just picked up for very small change. Unless I find a major issue this will be my go to bike this winter when the snows don't have the road off limits. With all the stuff attached to it from when I picked it up, it's a not so light 21 lbs 6 ozs. Mechanically all seems fine although I know nothing about this wheelset and bet it's fairly heavy. Going to wipe it down good while looking closely for any issues. The only thing I noted when I picked it up as a little corrosion by one bottle cage bolt on the down tube. I'll sort it out during the first football game and then take it out for a short test ride. Need to let the temps at least get above freezing before I go out.

Here's how I just brought it home.



20 lbs 4 ozs with the saddle bag, computer, sensors, lights removed. Not bad.
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Last edited by jamesdak; 12-31-23 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 01-01-24, 11:42 AM
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There's been a lot going on at my garage shop lately. I sent a repainted Stump Jumper to the shop for a new 1 x 9 drive train.
I overhauled a 1956 Raleigh sport.
I am in the middle of putting together a miyata Mixte donated as a frame and fork.
In the que are a Raleigh Super Course and a Peugeot u 08.

The 56 Raleigh was donated by a woman who told us it was her husband's bike. She asked if she could have first right of refusal to re purchase it from us when it was finished.
The bike had seen extensive use. The pedal blocks were extremely worn and the paint faded.
Surprisingly there was almost no rust on the steel wheels.

I decided to bring back the original paint as much as I could, stripping the bike down then using naval jelly to clean up any rust, followed by rubbing compound and finally a clear coat.
All the bearings were re greased and the bright work polished. New cables and covers were installed along with new kool stop pads for the brakes and a 24 tooth cog on theSA 3 spd hub to give it better gear ratios.
New pedals replaced the old worn ones, and finally. a new saddle replaced the ratty original.

I am planning to show the doner the bike and explain what we did to bring it back to life. Hopefully she will keep it for her grand kids to ride.
I think the 100 year guarantee still has a few years left on it.
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Old 01-01-24, 03:57 PM
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Two projects going on this weekend; double wrapping bars with wool outer tape and finished with a shellac'd twine wrap on the America then cleaning and swapping some parts from a donor bike onto the Nishiki Bel Air.


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Old 01-01-24, 06:20 PM
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Slow pace, doing bits here and there. Put the new older Retrofrictions on the 1972 PX-10, and using Dremel fiber wheels to remove the old glue residue from the Schwinn rims.

Last edited by ascherer; 01-01-24 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 01-01-24, 06:27 PM
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Since my Moulton Stowaway is more or less finished, I thought of restoring another compact bike which my wife could use. So I picked up this not-so-old Brompton for cheap. The chain is rusted and seized, the spokes are corroded, the cables are all junk. The seat post is toast, and there is surface rust on other parts. But it shouldn’t be hard to clean up. Bromptons are very popular in Japan, and parts are common and relatively inexpensive.

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Old 01-02-24, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by VintageSteelEU
Finally took the old girl for a ride today. Immediately found out that mounting the mudguard behind the fork crown is no good. Firstly, the mounting plate was touching the bottom headset cup and turning was nigh on impossible. Had to bend the plate back. And then I heard the clunking noise from the mudguard. So that's something to revisit when I have a moment to manufacture some better solution to put it back into steerer tube. Derailleur got a once over with a rotary tool and abrasive brush end and looks a bit better. One day I'll have to take it down and actually polish it properly. But it works great, after some adjustments on the road indexing works as it should both ways under load. I tried to avoid changing the bar tape, because I do like cotton one, but after the ride decided to bite the bullet finally. All is ready for return to service. One conclusion I came to is that I should probably look for slightly bigger frames or switch to longer, non-vintage seatposts. This is 56.5 cm, my other bicycle is 59 (measured to the top edge of the seat lug) and 59 feels better. Sure thing, the frame geometry is slightly different, but if I have the seatpost and stem extended to maximum, I guess I should just use a frame with a longer seat tube instead. Well, something to condsider when buying another frame.
On the bright side, first ride since the injury went well and that means I can safely go back to daily cycling.


those Moto’s seem to have long top tubes.
I have a 56 CTT and the top tube is like 57.
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Old 01-02-24, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
those Moto’s seem to have long top tubes.
I have a 56 CTT and the top tube is like 57.
It's 56.5cm seat tube (centre to top) and 56.5cm top tube (center to center). More or less.
I find my other bicycle (not Moto) with 58 ST and 56cm TT feels more comfortable. But it might be due to other factors, like longer stem (120mm vs 100mm), different handlebar bend (Kusuki Medallion, similar to Cinelli Criterium vs Cinelli Campione Del Mondo), different steel (Tange Champion 2 vs Reynolds 531). I think the 56.5 is probably on the short end of what I should be riding, and I should really go for 59 whenever I can, but problem with vintage Motobecane is that it's not frequent something my size shows up I usually see them in 53.5 height or sometimes in 61. Over the past few years I've only seen a few in the 58-59cm height.
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Old 01-02-24, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by capnjonny
There's been a lot going on at my garage shop lately. I sent a repainted Stump Jumper to the shop for a new 1 x 9 drive train.
I overhauled a 1956 Raleigh sport.
I am in the middle of putting together a miyata Mixte donated as a frame and fork.
In the que are a Raleigh Super Course and a Peugeot u 08.

The 56 Raleigh was donated by a woman who told us it was her husband's bike. She asked if she could have first right of refusal to re purchase it from us when it was finished.
The bike had seen extensive use. The pedal blocks were extremely worn and the paint faded.
Surprisingly there was almost no rust on the steel wheels.

I decided to bring back the original paint as much as I could, stripping the bike down then using naval jelly to clean up any rust, followed by rubbing compound and finally a clear coat.
All the bearings were re greased and the bright work polished. New cables and covers were installed along with new kool stop pads for the brakes and a 24 tooth cog on theSA 3 spd hub to give it better gear ratios.
New pedals replaced the old worn ones, and finally. a new saddle replaced the ratty original.

I am planning to show the doner the bike and explain what we did to bring it back to life. Hopefully she will keep it for her grand kids to ride.
I think the 100 year guarantee still has a few years left on it.
Here are a few pics of the Mixte. I was afraid I was going overboard with the yellow but seeing the photoes , I think it all works.





Last edited by capnjonny; 01-02-24 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 01-04-24, 01:26 PM
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I finished truing the tubular wheelset for my Paramount last week. I used fiber Dremel wheels to remove the small amount of very old glue on them and today I mounted the new Vittoria Corsas, just in time for the first snow storm of the season to arrive this weekend.



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Old 01-04-24, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by capnjonny
Here are a few pics of the Mixte. I was afraid I was going overboard with the yellow but seeing the photoes , I think it all works.
....
It definitely works!

What kind of rear brake is that? I need a similar one for my own mixte.
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Old 01-04-24, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer
I finished truing the tubular wheelset for my Paramount last week. I used fiber Dremel wheels to remove the small amount of very old glue on them and today I mounted the new Vittoria Corsas, just in time for the first snow storm of the season to arrive this weekend.



This looks fantastic! I love the colour of the frame and the contrasting tubulars!
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Old 01-04-24, 02:53 PM
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I've been wrenching on my new-to-me Libertas mixte. I put in a Tange/IRD roller-bearing headset to replace the old Stronglight loose-ball-bearing headset. The new one has caged roller bearings for the bottom race, and caged ball bearings for the top race. First I had to file down the crown race seat on the fork, from 26.7mm to 26.4mm. No problem.



Crown race seat filed down to 26.4 mm.


Pressing in the lower cup.



Roller bearings for the bottom cup



Steerer tube goes in here...



Fits perfectly.

The top cup actually screws down on the steerer tube on this one, with the top pressed-in piece being a cone for the caged ball bearings.

Engineered to look normal!
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