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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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Old 07-10-18, 09:49 PM
  #951  
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The chain oil bath/cover housing traps the one piece drive crank ie. you can't move the piece from where it sits in the chain oil bath/cover assembly. The rings bottom teeth are located below the lip of the cover's opening thus preventing the whole assembly to slide off the axle and away. It just occurred to me, you're supposed to remove the bottom bracket out thru the opposite adjustable side. The absence of the crank axle - once it has been withdrawn out the other side - allows move freedom to manoeuvre the crank assembly to release the nut or perhaps work the whole lot out thru the opening in the chain oil bath housing thereby allowing you to change the crank or the chain without partially disassembling the bicycle's frame.
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Old 07-11-18, 07:06 AM
  #952  
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@Johno59 - LOL no service manual!? Congrats! Sometimes challenges can be very rewarding after the fact!

Continuation from #947
When I last put the chain on, it just didn't look right at the RD. Today I examined the RD assembly and determined I put it together wrong! It tooks some effort but it is assembled correctly now. I installed on the frame and used the chain that I thought was too long. Look great! Shifts well hanging from the ceiling! Bottle cages are next and some temporary HB wrap to check out the Ergo location and test run. Pedals of course.

The rear needs to be dished but that can wait as there is enough clearance. I want to make sure this is going to work before committing all the way.
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Old 07-12-18, 09:33 AM
  #953  
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Started going through this Schwinn Hollywood for my daughter.

As purchased:

Torn down:



Polished, with some other parts cleaned up too:


A lot more work to do, but there's no rush. Not looking forward to polishing the rims.


And after the Hollywood is finished, I'll be going through this one for my other daughter:

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Old 07-13-18, 08:28 AM
  #954  
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From #952
Today I adjusted the brake pads, put some used ugly splash bar tape on and took it for a two block test ride. It works. The levers feel too low so I may bring them up a bit. I am pleased with the shifting, though I think some minor adjustment might make it perfect.
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Old 07-13-18, 01:29 PM
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As I approach my 66th birthday, I'm finding I have to fiddle with fit more than I used to. I ride a 24" 78 Trek 930 and a 62cm 92 Paramount PDG 7, for my summer bikes. I'm currently fine tuning both, for better comfort.
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Old 07-14-18, 01:46 AM
  #956  
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My '74 Paramount is getting a "mild" change to it's brake (on the drop bar) and shifter (on the down tube) arrangement. Exchanged the the 25.4mm SR stem and classic drop bar arrangement for a 26.0mm stem fitted with Soma Highway One bars. Shifters are now 7700-era Dura-Ace STIs, so still 9-speeds out back. The front shifter is a double that needs to shift a triple, so a clever little piece(s) of machined aluminum will be enabling the use of a triple. Should be fun. And I'll update my Paramount thread--a thread in which I also need to re-add all the pictures as they magically disappeared.
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Old 07-14-18, 06:03 AM
  #957  
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Finally got all the hand paint off. As always the remnants of original lead-based paint under the modern paints are the toughest to remove. In my experience nothing but sweat and elbow grease seems to get them to let go where they've sat for 70 odd years.


Before the invention of the hub gear Sunbeams had a gearbox located around the BB. The famous 'Little Oil Bath' was thus necessary to lubricate the gear box and the chain as well. This model post-dates that era but I'm wondering if the chamber, shown here to the left of the BB housing, is a left-over from the redundant gear-box design. Perhaps this chamber enabled oil to be pushed around by the chain passing thru the oil bath to flow via this chamber and lubricate the now missing gearbox.


The famous "Little Oil Bath" appears to be two soldered together tin stampings. It is incredibly thin sheet metal. The 'new moon' visible on the LHS of the chain-ring opening was the feature that required the removal of the axle (out the other way) before I could remove the crank.
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Old 07-14-18, 05:21 PM
  #958  
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My wife requested lower gearing on her non-C&V Cannondale. Happy me, I got to go to my LBS which had exactly what I needed in stock to swap out the 9-speed cassette and fit a new chain. Readjusted everything and polished the frame, then she mentioned how she really disliked the messy white tape. She was happy to learn that I had Brooks leather tape that I had purchased for her short-lived Super Course Mk. II mixte experiment.

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Old 07-14-18, 05:25 PM
  #959  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I started to dismantle my Super Course. The freewheel has come apart for the second time. I tested to see if I can fit the new rear wheel in the frame, and I can't. I'm not sure what I'll do. I might take it to a frame builder for his opinion.
What’s your plan for the SC, Tom?
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Old 07-14-18, 09:15 PM
  #960  
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Broke a spoke on the rear wheel of my Raleigh SC mixte while truing it. It has the T. D. C freewheel that requires a rare 3 prong remover tool. My amazing husband rummaged in the garage and came up with this:



Improvised freewheel remover
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Old 07-14-18, 09:19 PM
  #961  
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Originally Posted by ascherer View Post


What’s your plan for the SC, Tom?
The basic plan is to rebuild it drasticaly. I have a drivetrain I got NEW from @sloar. He took it off a new bike he bought. It's a 3x8 Claris drivetrain. I'll use mustache bars and a Technomic stem. I have a dynamo front wheel and a 105 rear hub. One question is whether I need a frame realignment. Another is whether I'll refinish it. I'm leaning towards doing both now.
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Old 07-14-18, 09:39 PM
  #962  
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Originally Posted by Honusms View Post
Broke a spoke on the rear wheel of my Raleigh SC mixte while truing it. It has the T. D. C freewheel that requires a rare 3 prong remover tool. My amazing husband rummaged in the garage and came up with this:



Improvised freewheel remover
Cool improvisation!
Did it work OK? Curios because FWs typically require a lot of torque to remove. And most remover parts like the prongs I think are made of hardened steel. Screws will tend to bend especially as the threading takes off material from the bolt's crossectional profile and tends to create natural weak points where they bend.
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Old 07-15-18, 12:10 AM
  #963  
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This was todays wrenching



changed the saddle , tweaked the brakes and the headset (again?)
Went for a quick hurtle ,got a puncture, all good fun !
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Old 07-15-18, 06:24 AM
  #964  
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Originally Posted by Chombi1 View Post
Cool improvisation!
Did it work OK? Curios because FWs typically require a lot of torque to remove. And most remover parts like the prongs I think are made of hardened steel. Screws will tend to bend especially as the threading takes off material from the bolt's crossectional profile and tends to create natural weak points where they bend.
Yes, it worked - with the help of a long wrench used as a lever and a hefty hammer to give it some authority. I held the wheel steady for the operation. The photo shows the tool after it did its job ☺️
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Old 07-15-18, 07:57 PM
  #965  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
The basic plan is to rebuild it drasticaly. I have a drivetrain I got NEW from @sloar. He took it off a new bike he bought. It's a 3x8 Claris drivetrain. I'll use mustache bars and a Technomic stem. I have a dynamo front wheel and a 105 rear hub. One question is whether I need a frame realignment. Another is whether I'll refinish it. I'm leaning towards doing both now.
Oh, I remember you telling me about that drivetrain. You think the frame is out of alignment? Boy, with a respray that bike will be a looker!
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Old 07-16-18, 01:23 AM
  #966  
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My 87 Westy camper. Painted, windows tinted, window and poptop seals replaced, Heavy Duty poptop struts added, 10’ Fiamma F45s awning added, hatchback HD struts added, South African mudflaps and headlight grill added, new tent installed, Yakima rack installed.

My 77 FJ40 Landcruiser. Replaced the carb and finally got it running right.

Oh wait, were you talking only about bikes??
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Old 07-16-18, 02:03 AM
  #967  
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@Ride-Fly nah, It's all C+V, it's all good!
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Old 07-16-18, 06:46 AM
  #968  
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Continued from #954
Took the bike out for a 29 miler. Worked really well except for a couple of chain ring misses on the move to the big one. Was a bit challenging to get use to the shifting of the Ergo's until I figured out that right side move the chain to the left and vice versa!. Beat my last couple of rides by a MPH which is a bit surprising because I usually don't do 29.

Handlebars need rotation along with Ergo location. Once this is worked out, new tape.
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Old 07-16-18, 08:22 AM
  #969  
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Originally Posted by ascherer View Post

Oh, I remember you telling me about that drivetrain. You think the frame is out of alignment? Boy, with a respray that bike will be a looker!
If I strip it down to bare metal, it will be a looker compared with how it looks now.

I need to spread it to 130mm, but even when I try to put the new rear wheel in, I can't, because the chain stay is where the cogs need to be. The stays may need bending beyond a simple spreading. I've done spreads before, but this may be better in the hands of an expert. Carl of Vicious Cycles in New Paltz may be willing to do it for me.
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Old 07-16-18, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
If I strip it down to bare metal, it will be a looker compared with how it looks now.

I need to spread it to 130mm, but even when I try to put the new rear wheel in, I can't, because the chain stay is where the cogs need to be. The stays may need bending beyond a simple spreading. I've done spreads before, but this may be better in the hands of an expert. Carl of Vicious Cycles in New Paltz may be willing to do it for me.
Depending in how it looks it might be cool to clear coat the bare frame. What year is it? My International barely clears the 7-speed I have on it, which is another reason I’m considering an 11, just to buy a few extra mm.
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Old 07-16-18, 10:48 AM
  #971  
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Very cool!
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Old 07-16-18, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ascherer View Post

Depending in how it looks it might be cool to clear coat the bare frame. What year is it? My International barely clears the 7-speed I have on it, which is another reason I’m considering an 11, just to buy a few extra mm.
My Super Course is either a 1971 or 1972, and I choose to call it a 1971 for no reason. I don't remember the space between the dropouts, but I've had a 126mm wheel in there, and getting the 6-speed in was a little difficult. Getting the 8-speed is impossible.

I have some contact paper with a faux stone finish I might use. But I think I'll probably do whatever is easiest. Cutting the contact paper well might be tricky, and it might be fun.
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Old 07-16-18, 12:57 PM
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Reconfigured the Faggin from backup Eroica bike to everyday mile eater. Now with mostly Ultegra 2x9. Not sure about the cranks but they work well. I'll wait until something comes along that says "I need to be on your Faggin" before I change them. Cosmics and a funky Flite saddle that came off a bike with Maclean decals that I paid about the cost of a second hand saddle for.
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Old 07-19-18, 06:40 PM
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My daughter who's entering her Junior year in college all of a sudden tells me she wants a bike for school. Doesn't want to take her Specialized Myka mtb so I found this older late 80's Hardrock. In decent condition except for some surface rust spots on the frame and scrapes. Removed the rust with naval jelly, clear coated the frame and fork, then waxed. Repainted and cleared the stem and handlebar. Didn't care to repaint the frame as it will be outside anyway. Plus you don't want to attract attention with a shiny bike. lol A pair of street tires on the rebuilt wheels and reassembly is up next.
It will look crappy outside but good inside.

IMG_4582 by 2cam16, on Flickr

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Old 07-20-18, 08:22 AM
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@2cam16, that's great. I loved preparing a bike to send my kid to college. They didn't end up using it much, but oh well.
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