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-   -   What have you been wrenching on lately? (https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1069707-what-have-you-been-wrenching-lately.html)

gugie 11-07-18 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel (Post 20651946)
Over the weekend I dismantled my '74 Paramount so that I could investigate why the headset would magically come loose (after having to over-tighten it slightly just to get it to not come loose 5 miles later). All the cups and cones/races look fantastic. No cracks in them or in the repaired fork (new steerer). So this one is baffling to me. I made marks on all the upper cups and washers so as to see if I could catch the shifty bits red-handed. Alas, they did move, but only 2mm! So what to do with a setup that has never felt misaligned (tight then loose then tight as one spins the fork)? Don't know! I think popping out the headset cups and refacing the head tube could be a good starting point. They've never been out, and though the head tube is not deformed, who knows what has happened over these last 44 years. I'm confident in the fork crown alignment because I witnessed @gugie face the crown race area and mount the crown race itself. Maybe the headset's top cap and top nut have their threads worn out and thus don't hold position in spite of my best...encouragement.

Did we face and chase the head tube? I can't remember. I don't think we pressed the headset in, as my press isn't long enough for that frame.

RiddleOfSteel 11-07-18 10:58 AM


Originally Posted by gugie (Post 20652349)
Did we face and chase the head tube? I can't remember. I don't think we pressed the headset in, as my press isn't long enough for that frame.

We didn't do that since, I believe, the steerer and fork were the issues of the day (at least at the front of the frame), which is why I'm confident it isn't the steerer or fork. Having the headset cups on helped for taping and masking the lugs for painting as there was more 'neutral surface' to secure to when dealing with the complex Nervex lugs. The head tube has no bulges or other visual clues that would indicate a structural issue or misalignment, and of course the cups look to be happily and evenly seated. Headset cup and nut threads could be toast. It's still surprising to me that all the cups and races are 100% in great shape. Could I have too few bearing balls in each race/cup? There are at least 19-21 in the top (loose ball) and a tighter-packed caged setup (likely the same number range as the top--at least 19). I think it can hold up to about 22, but I'd have to check.

gugie 11-07-18 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by 52telecaster (Post 20642045)
Put drop bars on the bob. Been wanting to try this for a while because my neck feels pretty good. As you can tell they are still very high.

Neck issues? I have a slipped disc in my upper spine, makes it hard to hold my head up while riding - but little by little it's getting better. I even have one bike now that has the bars a half inch lower than the saddle!

It seems that everything I do to hurt myself gets better the more I ride...

gugie 11-07-18 11:05 AM


Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel (Post 20652443)
We didn't do that since, I believe, the steerer and fork were the issues of the day (at least at the front of the frame), which is why I'm confident it isn't the steerer or fork. Having the headset cups on helped for taping and masking the lugs for painting as there was more 'neutral surface' to secure to when dealing with the complex Nervex lugs. The head tube has no bulges or other visual clues that would indicate a structural issue or misalignment, and of course the cups look to be happily and evenly seated. Headset cup and nut threads could be toast. It's still surprising to me that all the cups and races are 100% in great shape. Could I have too few bearing balls in each race/cup? There are at least 19-21 in the top (loose ball) and a tighter-packed caged setup (likely the same number range as the top--at least 19). I think it can hold up to about 22, but I'd have to check.

I can face and chase it, but my press isn't long enough. If your co-op has the tools, I'd get that done first - it never hurts to have both bearing surfaces perfectly concentric. You can always bring it down to the Atelier for the face and chase if you don't otherwise have access to that tool.

RiddleOfSteel 11-07-18 12:40 PM


Originally Posted by gugie (Post 20652454)
I can face and chase it, but my press isn't long enough. If your co-op has the tools, I'd get that done first - it never hurts to have both bearing surfaces perfectly concentric. You can always bring it down to the Atelier for the face and chase if you don't otherwise have access to that tool.

My plan is to take it to Recycled Cycles and have them do it. They do other minor frame work (cold-setting, etc) so this should be within their capability. If not, then we can set up a time for me to bring it down to you, and likely that 620 fork while I'm at it. I'll see if I can get the chasing and facing done by Thursday or this weekend, and go from there.

EDIT: To everyone else reading this exchange, the headset loosening issue has been from day 1 of reassembly after paint and decals. The frameset came to the bike coop 'disassembled' with the frame hosting a carbon fiber fork (not joking) with a crown race literally placed on the crown yet not pressed down those last 6mm. The original fork was in a separate pile. There were beyond too many bearing balls in the headset, which again, was partially and very incorrectly 'assembled'. Upon reassembly, the Paramount was not ridden much, nor for very long distance, thus the headset loosening was a much slower occurrence. 90 miles over labor day weekend fully brought the problem (and its friend, frustration) to bear. As the Paramount has assumed winter/rain bike duty, with a number of rainy rides already completed, previous efforts to stop the loosening have failed and so I am sidelining it until I can get to the bottom of it. Gugie's replacement of the steerer while preserving the fork crown's chrome was astounding and greatly appreciated. His work is not nor has it ever been the problem. It is now time for me, personally, to try and fully address the headset issue, to do away with the band-aid solutions that have unfortunately not worked. Remember that this bike came to me in just about the saddest and weirdest state possible (outside of being fished from a lake where a murder happened or something), and just about no bike/frame escapes the jaws of death completely unscathed. To come away with this as the only (small) problem, well, aside from the steerer, is commendable and a testament to the quality of top-of-the-line Schwinn. Because of this P15, I've been on the very low key and very casual lookout for a P13 of the same era. Frameset, naturally. ;)

scozim 11-07-18 01:08 PM

Having a little fun cleaning up the new "errand/yard sale" bike for next spring and summer. The Weinmann 500 brakes may be cheap but they sure shine up nice.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1634eb1705.jpg

ryansu 11-07-18 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by Sir_Name (Post 20650127)

50% less salt :D nicely done sir and a great bike for the trainer, I will remember that when I move the Trek 420 that is currently doing trainer duty to the rebuild queue a bike with a questionable fork might be the cheap ticket. Thank god we don't salt our roads in Seattle except once in a blue Snowpocalpyse (i.e > than 1 inch accumulation)

ryansu 11-07-18 01:18 PM


Originally Posted by scozim (Post 20652681)
Having a little fun cleaning up the new "errand/yard sale" bike for next spring and summer. The Weinmann 500 brakes may be cheap but they sure shine up nice.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1634eb1705.jpg

Seeing all these nice Pugs of late has me jonesing for one -like I really need another project! What model is Carbolite 103 your errand runner @scozim?

ryansu 11-07-18 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by Lascauxcaveman (Post 20650279)
Over the weekend, I built up this (late 70s? Viva Sport?) for my older sis, to replace her incredibly rusty, bent, pig-iron mid 70s Mirage. That thing was a tragedy: Bent DS crank arm (cranks rusted in place; probably non-removable) stem rusted in place (probably non-removable) steel everything except for said stem, turkey levers and the well-worn VGT rear derailleur.

Her new bike features no less than 5 colors of cable housing, zip-tie cable clamps, hockey tape over recycled foam 'cork' bar wrap (added after pix) and a pair of alloy rims (mismatched, a certainement) which I put on her Moto a couple years ago when she still refused to give it up.

It's a low end, parts bin build, but unquestionably a huge upgrade over the Moto. The biggest improvement is the spindle doesn't move up and down and sideways 1/4" within the bottom bracket. Also good: 6+ lbs lighter. The recycled, bent, rusted, sanded and spraybombed fenders gave me a nearly perfect fender line after a few minutes of hammering the heavy metal fender stays into a mostly-straight condition. Honestly one of the easiest fender installations I've ever done. I'll take my little victories where I can get them :)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4803/...80bc891f_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1963/...cfd3c30e_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/...a7c66696_b.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1921/...143f15c3_b.jpg

Longtime readers may remember this old Univega as being the worlds ugliest fixie from years ago, complete with badly faded and peeling adhesive woodgrain shelf paper on the tubes:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4691/...4c6e2032_b.jpg

Nothing but the best for your Sis huh? :lol: I think the French for using all your spare bits of cable housing on one build is Collage.... or is that kladiescope? hmm

Drillium Dude 11-07-18 01:48 PM

It seems seatposts are my current focus.

I replaced the tarnished Campy SR post in the Medici with this beauty:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bd8cfa37fd.jpg

...and replaced the Campy NR Colnago-pantographed post in the gold Colnago Mexico with this:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ed54df5350.jpg

I had to clean them both up a bit (mainly some moderate zig-zagging), and in the case of the Colnago post, re-enamel the flutes and engravings. Well worth the effort across the board.

Next up: cockpit adjustments. I've finally given up running my brake levers so low; my back just can't abide any longer. I tested re-located levers on the Medici through the summer and got more miles than ever, so I'm a convert. Still have a number of bikes to go, but I've got all winter to git 'er done :)

DD

scozim 11-07-18 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by ryansu (Post 20652698)
Seeing all these nice Pugs of late has me jonesing for one -like I really need another project! What model is Carbolite 103 your errand runner @scozim?

It's a PH10L - 1984. Been in the family since new and, really, has very few miles on it. Original brake pads are goners - just way too hard now. I'll put some narrower Paselas on it and it should ride pretty comfortably.

52telecaster 11-07-18 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by gugie (Post 20652449)
Neck issues? I have a slipped disc in my upper spine, makes it hard to hold my head up while riding - but little by little it's getting better. I even have one bike now that has the bars a half inch lower than the saddle!

It seems that everything I do to hurt myself gets better the more I ride...

Mine is arthritis according to the docs best guess. Of course not having insurance I havnt pursued remedies. I will have coverage in January so I may talk to a doc about it. Personally I think less days standing on concrete and more riding helps me a lot. I am nowhere near getting the bars even level but I put them where I can ride and dont worry about anyone else. Glad you feel better! Old guys unite.

ryansu 11-07-18 02:07 PM


Originally Posted by 52telecaster (Post 20652774)
Mine is arthritis according to the docs best guess. Of course not having insurance I havnt pursued remedies. I will have coverage in January so I may talk to a doc about it. Personally I think less days standing on concrete and more riding helps me a lot. I am nowhere near getting the bars even level but I put them where I can ride and dont worry about anyone else. Glad you feel better! Old guys unite.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04f3a27267.jpg

(Amazon)

sebastianshaw1 11-07-18 02:38 PM

depends on what you're calling wrenching....

52telecaster 11-07-18 02:38 PM


Originally Posted by ryansu (Post 20652793)

+1

jlaw 11-07-18 03:02 PM


Originally Posted by RiddleOfSteel (Post 20651946)
All that to say that my recent frame acquisition, a 1980 Trek 410 (had a few 412-specific parts still on it), is now adorned with some of the finest shiny touring bits. I had to drop the tire size from 32mm to 28mm to get the fenders to clear, but it all works well. I changed the Cinelli 65 bars / Shimano BL-R600 lever combo to a Nitto Noodle / Tektro R200 lever combo. The new setup is more comfortable for long rides on a frame/bike that's meant for them. The Cinelli 65s are fantastic and allow for a lot of comfort...on a shorter ride race bike. The 410 is geometrically very similar to my P15 Paramount, with slight variation in trail and longer chain stays (44.5cm vs 43.5cm). So far....I really like this bike. Was there orange rust dust along the bottom of the inner top tube? Oh yes. Is there paint bubbling in a number of areas beneath that beautiful nearly-black dark grey-blue metallic paint? Yup. Are the main tubes Ishiwata 022 and the rest 'just' hi-ten steel? You got it. I will do a build thread soon, for posterity and simultaneous evangelism regarding this 'entry-level' Trek's worthy place in a line-up of the nicest touring/sport touring bikes. I'm glad my excitement for this frameset has been affirmed with a fantastic ride!

fyi - If your 1980 410 has similar geometry/clearances to my 1985 410 - you could fit 38mm tires with a 650b wheel set. I really like the way my 410 rides - cushy without being sluggish.

Classtime 11-07-18 03:31 PM

Last night after dinner, I got everything but the fork off a '87 Ironman. The FW finally breaking free after using the vise and making the workbench jump around some. At times like these, the "CRACK" always makes me fear the worst. It's all good. The BB came out without trouble since it is not French or Italian.

RiddleOfSteel 11-07-18 03:45 PM


Originally Posted by jlaw (Post 20652918)
fyi - If your 1980 410 has similar geometry/clearances to my 1985 410 - you could fit 38mm tires with a 650b wheel set. I really like the way my 410 rides - cushy without being sluggish.

The 410 (maybe all x10) frames of that year look very similar in proportion to Schwinn's Le Tours. Rear triangle is a little tighter than sport touring geometry but not fully race. Sporty Sport Touring (the slower, milder "SST"). :lol:

A 1980 410 had 44.5cm chain stays, longer than a Miyata 1000's until about 1984! Looks like an '85 410 had 42.5cm stays. I think my 410 would have the clearance to run 38's, but it may be snug in spots. Fenders could be tight as well with those tires. Not quite on the 650 train yet, fat tires either. I still like my long and lean bike proportions. :) But thank you for the fitment information--I will file it away!

seedsbelize 11-07-18 08:44 PM

My town bike hasn't been shifting lately. Nothing, in the rear. It's a 95 Giant Yukon and receives maintenance only when it has to have it. I finally put it in the stand, got out the WD40, fiddled with a few things, and found the cable clamped into the clamped on kickstand I added a few weeks ago. Re-cabled it and it works beautifully. While I was at it, I changed out the road crank to one of a more compact nature. This, I believe, is the first bike I ever built up from scratch. It was done inside the co-op, using whatever I could find, and not knowing the difference between road and mtb gearing.

crank_addict 11-08-18 05:37 PM

Last night I took my friend (car less) to help in errands. Nearby was a goodwill rummage store where I found this vintage Japan made all leather camera travel bag. Guessing 1960's era. $3 including discount. Today was install and show for the road.

High quality, rigid leather, the front also has two zippers that slightly expand the case. Interior is lined with adjustable dividers. No mods needed to mount -strapped it on and go. Though I'd like to reconfigure it to mount less the straps.

Realizing rain is not kind to finished leather, I stuffed inside one of the storage pockets a plastic covering bag.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a49ca60615.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c8c75fa85.jpg

tyler_fred 11-09-18 05:49 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...39feb2ebb.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bdfff84d6.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...73349c92b.jpeg
I started stripping the paint off of my Bottecchia this week. I brushed on the stripper followed by a gentle scrapping. Afterwards I sanded with a Scotch bright pad soaked in acetone. This seems to work well. I have to do a second application on the stubborn areas.

DQRider 11-10-18 04:05 PM

1948 Raleigh-Lenton Clubman, "Patina Preservation" Project
 


I posted a while back with a photo of what I thought was a 1949 Raleigh Clubman frameset that I was going to buy from the "Shirt-tail Organizer" (STO) of the Lake Pepin 3-speed Tour, Jon Sharratt.

Well, we did the deal, and in the process of taking my "before" photos, I discovered by the serial number that this is actually a 1948 Raleigh-Lenton Clubman frameset.


https://i.imgur.com/asG95aB.png


Not a big deal, and it doesn't change any of my plans for this build, but I was surprised that the two years' models are practically identical.


https://i.imgur.com/SVqJQpE.png


Anyway, my plan for this build is to remove the rough surface rust, and chemically stabilize the incredible patina on this 70 year-old bicycle, before spraying it with several coats of clear enamel that I can polish to a brilliant finish.


https://i.imgur.com/teKYFZ1.png


I've been doing a lot of research into this relatively recent practice, and I find it fascinating. The end result is a kind of abstract-impressionist art form that highlights what Grant Petersen calls "beausage" (Beauty from Usage), paying homage to the history of the bike, instead of eliminating and covering it up to make it "good-as-new".


https://i.imgur.com/7TuiwWn.png


The details in this old hand-built Reynolds 531 frameset seem extraordinary in this era of tig-welded mass production bikes. I mean, look at these fancy cutaway lugs:

https://i.imgur.com/2YU9Aex.png


You just don't see this kind of craftsmanship anymore from the large manufacturers. This is now the province of high-dollar bespoke frame makers.


In order to emphasize this patina, and make this a nice-riding art project, I am using modern, black-colored hardware wherever possible, to keep the eye focused on the historic frameset.


Not to worry, though... The drivetrain is Sturmey Archer 3-speed, in black 700c wheels from a local company called "Handsome Cycles".



https://i.imgur.com/YvA8Uz2.png


This means dealing with what I consider the "Raleigh Curse"; the 26 tpi threading on vital components such as the bottom bracket and headset.


https://i.imgur.com/MpeIyAm.png


Believe it or not, I plan to use modern sealed-bearing hardware in these applications. I guess we'll see if I can actually make that work.


By the end of this weekend, I plan to have the frame all cleaned-up and the first coats of clear applied, so I can evaluate whether I want to continue down this path.

More updates to follow...


.

Cycologist 11-11-18 12:10 PM

71 PX 10. Hopefully I can post pictures soon.

ryansu 11-11-18 12:35 PM

@DQRider that is a very cool besauge project you have going there, I wonder if a threadless bb like the one Velo Orange sells here would allow you to get around the proprietary Raleigh threading? I have no idea about the Headset but I am interested to see what you come up with,...

DQRider 11-11-18 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by ryansu (Post 20658343)
@DQRider that is a very cool besauge project you have going there, I wonder if a threadless bb like the one Velo Orange sells here would allow you to get around the proprietary Raleigh threading? I have no idea about the Headset but I am interested to see what you come up with,...

LOL, :p...

Way ahead of you there, @ryansu .

Here's my email notification from Velo Orange from November 8th:

"This shipment includes the following items:

Item #DescriptionQty BB-0005-118Threadless Bottom Bracket - 118mm

Thank you for your business and we look forward to serving you in the future!

Velo Orange"

... and I think I have solved the headset as well. Origin8, black, sealed cartridge slots right in on the bottom. Up top, I've had to get a bit creative, using the Origin8 "cup and cone" over the cartridge bearing, but the threaded pieces over that are the 26 tpi originals. Those will have to get painted, I think.

It makes quite a "stack". But it will do until I come up with something better.

.


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