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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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What have you been wrenching on lately?

Old 03-03-19, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmuller
I started taking the BB apart on one of my bikes, and you'll never guess what I found.
I will guess a well preserved crawfish exoskeleton.

And a love letter.

No need to correct me. My imagination trumps your facts.

I will write out the love letter details later. Don't rush me!

On a serious note, when I was overhauling my last project, an '82 Miyata 912, I found about a foot of brake cable housing in the seat tube. Ever seen that before? Does that help with corrosion? Is it used as backup? Do you tape your drugs to it when cross-country touring? Why am I asking you? Was it your Miyata? If so, thanks. It's a really nice bike.
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Old 03-04-19, 12:23 PM
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Thanks for your advice, folks. You were right that I had an Octalink V1 crankset and a V2 BB axle. I just bought a used BB on ebay which should work. I have a V1 BB already but it's 118mm long, and it puts the chainrings out too far. This new one is an MTB one and about 113mm long. I hope it works. Getting cranks and a FD on this bike has been difficult. I've been getting by with an ugly crank with arms that are too long for me.
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Old 03-04-19, 01:33 PM
  #1553  
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Upgrading an Austro Daimler Vent Noir from the original 1st gen Dura Ace to a Dura Ace 7700 9 spped STI group. Going to be kind of a rat rod look. It really needs to be stripped and repainted, but dont have the heart to strip off the original decals and hand painting around the lugs. My first retro upgrade to STIs. Going to be a great ride. Pics to come.
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Old 03-04-19, 01:35 PM
  #1554  
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Originally Posted by noglider
Thanks for your advice, folks. You were right that I had an Octalink V1 crankset and a V2 BB axle. I just bought a used BB on ebay which should work. I have a V1 BB already but it's 118mm long, and it puts the chainrings out too far. This new one is an MTB one and about 113mm long. I hope it works. Getting cranks and a FD on this bike has been difficult. I've been getting by with an ugly crank with arms that are too long for me.
If its a road double youll probably need the 109.5 width. Ive been through that problem.
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Old 03-04-19, 01:44 PM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by brandenjs

If its a road double youll probably need the 109.5 width. Ive been through that problem.
It's a road triple, so I hope this works out. Thanks!
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Old 03-04-19, 10:13 PM
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This evening, I volunteered at the bike coop. This was my third time working there. I really enjoy it. It is open on Mondays from 6pm to 9pm, and that's it. Just three hours a week.

Today, I worked on an old Schwinn High Plains or some such MTB. I discovered the integrated right brake lever/shift lever needed replacement. I couldn't find a 7-speed, so I put on an 8-speed and found that it worked. I got the bike totally road ready and sale ready. I also showed someone how I tape handlebars.
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Old 03-05-19, 02:16 AM
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Cool Bike
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Old 03-05-19, 02:17 AM
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First one looks like a sunburst guitar, very nice!!
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Old 03-05-19, 02:18 AM
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Cool Pair!!
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Old 03-05-19, 02:19 AM
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10 posts
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Old 03-05-19, 02:20 AM
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Chrome stays are awesome!!
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Old 03-05-19, 05:07 PM
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Replaced the Cycloid chainrings that came with my Jo Routens with nice round TA ones. Kept the 165mm TA cranks




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Old 03-05-19, 06:32 PM
  #1563  
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Talerico custom

I just finished work on a custom Tallerico . Mostly just clean up and re grease the bearings but also changed the bars from a set of drops on a threadless stem adapter. The fork was not original to the bike and the steer tube was too long. We cut it down and re threaded it for a quill stem and installed flat bars . Now we have a sub 24 lb hipster city bike that should be easy to sell here in Silicon Valley.





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Old 03-05-19, 09:33 PM
  #1564  
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I've joined the club, here's a Fuji I picked up last weekend. It had a cut seized post that I took the extraction on as a challenge. It had the front and back semi cut when purchased, I cut the cross groves. Then with a trip to Ace Hardward I pieced together a makeshift slide hammer with threaded rod a nut and some washers, and I was able to bang it out.


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Old 03-06-19, 05:19 AM
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Very good idea. Feed the all thread through the post, screw on the nut n washers through the BB then hammer away. Did you use a heavy pipe to slide on the upper end? Bit of pig iron? Someone to hold the frame while you hammered?
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Old 03-06-19, 06:53 PM
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Legnano

Still working on identifying year and model of a frame given to me a few weeks ago. Serial number on the seat tube 6039. No Other identifiers except the five holes on the head tube where the head badge would be.
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Old 03-07-19, 04:30 AM
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Seeing this makes me think the flutes in seatposts are the ideal water delivery mechanism. Does anyone seal their flutes at the top of the seatpost with a dab of clear caulk or a wax plug?

[/QUOTE]
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Old 03-07-19, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Prowler
Very good idea. Feed the all thread through the post, screw on the nut n washers through the BB then hammer away. Did you use a heavy pipe to slide on the upper end? Bit of pig iron? Someone to hold the frame while you hammered?
Just as you mentioned, I feed the rod through, made sure I had washers that could pass the bottle mounts, put the nut on. I thought about using pipe with another nut and set of washers but did not. I just held the rod in one hand with the nut and washers about 12" inserted in the seat tube, I then held the the frame at the top portion of the seat tube in the other. Next was a two handed power drop, almost like a baseball swing. Then I tried to follow through with the frame hand and with the rod hand I did like check swings for impacting. The threads on the rod did provide substantial area for gripping, if they did not I would have gone the the route of having the pipe sleeve and nutted washers to slam against.

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Old 03-07-19, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Schreck83
Seeing this makes me think the flutes in seatposts are the ideal water delivery mechanism. Does anyone seal their flutes at the top of the seatpost with a dab of clear caulk or a wax plug?

[/QUOTE]

If I go back to the Sugino seatpost I would fill the flutes with grease. IMO the Sugino was a horrible design for triathlon bikes. The transition from swim to run was a train wreck in slow motion. I think this was a common problem for the design, triathlon bike or not.
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Old 03-07-19, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66


Just as you mentioned, I feed the rod through, made sure I had washers that could pass the bottle mounts, put the nut on. I thought about using pipe with another nut and set of washers but did not. I just held the rod in one hand with the nut and washers about 12" inserted in the seat tube, I then held the the frame at the top portion of the seat tube in the other. Next was a two handed power drop, almost like a baseball swing. Then I tried to follow through with the frame hand and with the rod hand I did like check swings for impacting. The threads on the rod did provide substantial area for gripping, if they did not I would have gone the the route of having the pipe sleeve and nutted washers to slam against.

Can we go to replay video?

Great solution, going to use this technique next time.
thanks
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Old 03-07-19, 09:08 PM
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Continuing to fiddle with my International, now some attention to my front bag mount. I use a NOS Cannondale that I want to get off the handlebars. I was able to attach a Velo Orange stem mounted decaleur directly to the bag frame. You can see where I removed the original quick release mount.


A quick test suggests the bottom of the bag will rest nicely on my front rack. Next I have to swap out my brake cable hanger as the decaleur interferes with it. I have a narrow Mafac hanger somewhere, and Im also going to try a couple of others.
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Old 03-09-19, 05:27 PM
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Finished this one today after the bar tape arrived yesterday. 1990 Nuovo Record rebuilt from the ground up. Mix of Exage Motion and 105. I converted it to 8-speed. Oval wheels on Truvative hubs. Painted some cages.

IMG_7184 by 2cam16, on Flickr
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Old 03-09-19, 05:35 PM
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Finally got around to tinkering with my main squeeze. Aside from a previous saddle swap, today has brought the first changes to take place since purchasing the bike early last December.

It started with a basic wipe down cleaning to address the past few months worth of winter commute dust and grime. But once I got going, I was a bit inspired to swap the cockpit out. Brakes too.

Git rid of these...





and these...





and replaced them with these...





and these...





and these!





The Superbe clamp band has a max diameter of 23.8 mm which was too small for the 24 mm Cinelli bars. My solution was to scavenge the clamps from a pair of banged up Shimano 600 levers. They just worked as they were wide enough to fit the bar, and they sat deep enough in the levers to mount. Heres the SunTour bands which will now get stashed away, and a set of now defunct Shimanos.





Suppose I should get to the shop for some cable huh. I forgot that changing from aero to non-aero would require longer cables.

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Old 03-09-19, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 2cam16
Finished this one today after the bar tape arrived yesterday. 1990 Nuovo Record rebuilt from the ground up. Mix of Exage Motion and 105. I converted it to 8-speed. Oval wheels on Truvative hubs. Painted some cages.

IMG_7184 by 2cam16, on Flickr
Nice save. Its a little different from all the MTBs rolling out of your workshop!
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Old 03-09-19, 05:58 PM
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This is not wrenching but it sure is work. I started stripping the paint from a steel frame, '91 Ochsner. I have owned it since it was new. I did have it kind of hybridized with a riser type stem and flat bars, and a cushy saddle. I also had 130 spacing, 9 speed hub and cassette on it. It is 126mm but the wheel and derailleur worked fine with the down tube levers in friction mode. I decided to return it to its original wheels, 6 speed freewheel, quill stem and classic style drop bar. It is the first time I have disassembled a bike to the frame and the first time I have stripped the paint from a frame. I still have some work to do on that chore.
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