What have you been wrenching on lately?
10-13-19, 09:57 PM
#2326
(rhymes with spook)
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Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
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Thank you! I do love this bike now that it’s finished.
The brakes are Shimano 105 5800 — picked them up from Chain Reaction during a big sale, and they’re much better than the original Aero Gran Compes (which I have tucked away).
For the cable stop, I had a spare incomplete set of Symmetric shifters that I butchered for this purpose. The drive side had a protrusion that needed to be removed with a hacksaw, and then the internals needed to be tapped to M5x0.8 so I could mount standard cable stops. Again, I have the original Symmetrics tucked away.
You also asked about the handlebar bag — it’s a vintage Cannondale.
The brakes are Shimano 105 5800 — picked them up from Chain Reaction during a big sale, and they’re much better than the original Aero Gran Compes (which I have tucked away).
For the cable stop, I had a spare incomplete set of Symmetric shifters that I butchered for this purpose. The drive side had a protrusion that needed to be removed with a hacksaw, and then the internals needed to be tapped to M5x0.8 so I could mount standard cable stops. Again, I have the original Symmetrics tucked away.
You also asked about the handlebar bag — it’s a vintage Cannondale.
i have some symmetric shifters. and, i have some cyclone top mounts. not sure i'd wanna sacrifice either for that kind of set up, though. hmmm....conundrums
i'll have to keep an eye peeled for a can' bag, too. i've seen them before...all around here on the forum. i really like them
thanks for the response!
10-13-19, 10:16 PM
#2327
Master Parts Rearranger
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Finally working on a recently traded-for 63cm (CTT) 1981 Univega Gran Premio. Paint was cleaned and then waxed and looks great, especially for getting on closer to 40 years old (now I feel old!). Tange Champion tubing. Hand made frame with thinned long-point lugs and diamond cutouts. Lovely detailing.
Among my current and past Columbus SL and Tange Prestige frames--all in the 63-66cm range--they all weight similar (frame, fork, headset), which ends up being 3000g or very very close. This Gran Premio must have a Sumo Edition of Champion tubing that I don't know about because it weighs 3557g!! For a top-end or near top end frame, that is a full 2.7 lb more than those aforementioned frames (6.6 lb they were). It blows past my 65cm 1981 Trek 412 (Ishiwata 022 and hi-ten tubing) and is more or less a full (nice) touring frameset's weight in the size much smaller. I suppose I could also lump in my '85 Allez SE's frameset as being oddly heavy given its race/competition intent.
I was assured, after this remarkable discovery, by the 'seller' (a BF member), that it rides lighter than its weight suggests. If so, then it would be more akin to my former '88 Specialized Sirrus. In the end, I'm going to not worry about it too much and just build the thing up. I already put the heavy Shimano 600/Campagnolo Atlanta 1996 wheels on it (hey, they don't feel slow!) and am now figuring out what crankset to employ. With steep 74° angles (75° seat tube even?), this thing is going to be pretty 'tuned in' to the road I imagine. Should be fun!
Among my current and past Columbus SL and Tange Prestige frames--all in the 63-66cm range--they all weight similar (frame, fork, headset), which ends up being 3000g or very very close. This Gran Premio must have a Sumo Edition of Champion tubing that I don't know about because it weighs 3557g!! For a top-end or near top end frame, that is a full 2.7 lb more than those aforementioned frames (6.6 lb they were). It blows past my 65cm 1981 Trek 412 (Ishiwata 022 and hi-ten tubing) and is more or less a full (nice) touring frameset's weight in the size much smaller. I suppose I could also lump in my '85 Allez SE's frameset as being oddly heavy given its race/competition intent.
I was assured, after this remarkable discovery, by the 'seller' (a BF member), that it rides lighter than its weight suggests. If so, then it would be more akin to my former '88 Specialized Sirrus. In the end, I'm going to not worry about it too much and just build the thing up. I already put the heavy Shimano 600/Campagnolo Atlanta 1996 wheels on it (hey, they don't feel slow!) and am now figuring out what crankset to employ. With steep 74° angles (75° seat tube even?), this thing is going to be pretty 'tuned in' to the road I imagine. Should be fun!
10-14-19, 07:43 AM
#2328
Old Boy
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My First Trek
I picked up this 1981 Trek 412 (One of the Waterford bikes) from a local flipper. Here's the photo from the ad:
It was in beautiful, original condition, nicely cleaned and polished, but for me practically unrideable the way it was set up. I've recently developed a formula, or maybe recipe is a better word, for improving the old sporting road bikes into something I am comfortable riding.
One part of that recipe is to convert them from downtube friction shifting to high-quality, thumb-shifted-and-indexed 1 x 9 or 10-speed. Of course, this necessitates cold-setting the rear axle spacing from 126 to 130 or 135mm. I've done this enough times now that I have it down to a science.
One thing I have discovered is that, instead of a two-step process of spreading and then aligning, I can do both with the same tool:
This is more accurate because I can turn each side out the exact same number of turns until I get to the 155mm that results in a 130mm spread when the alignment tool is removed.
Once I got the drivetrain and new wheelset in-place, I decided to mock-up the rest of the bike into what I had originally envisioned this project to be; another stylish and speedy commuter:
Here is where I need some help. I really thought the copper-plated Mud Butler fenders would go perfectly with the dark blue frame and brown leather saddle/grips combo. But it doesn't look as good as I had imagined.
What say you all?
I am in the process right now of replacing the silver crank, seatpost, and stem with black pieces from the parts bin. Maybe I'll test-fit the fenders again after that, and it will all fall into place.
Early rides feel promising. I can see why Trek has such a following.
.
It was in beautiful, original condition, nicely cleaned and polished, but for me practically unrideable the way it was set up. I've recently developed a formula, or maybe recipe is a better word, for improving the old sporting road bikes into something I am comfortable riding.
One part of that recipe is to convert them from downtube friction shifting to high-quality, thumb-shifted-and-indexed 1 x 9 or 10-speed. Of course, this necessitates cold-setting the rear axle spacing from 126 to 130 or 135mm. I've done this enough times now that I have it down to a science.
One thing I have discovered is that, instead of a two-step process of spreading and then aligning, I can do both with the same tool:
This is more accurate because I can turn each side out the exact same number of turns until I get to the 155mm that results in a 130mm spread when the alignment tool is removed.
Once I got the drivetrain and new wheelset in-place, I decided to mock-up the rest of the bike into what I had originally envisioned this project to be; another stylish and speedy commuter:
Here is where I need some help. I really thought the copper-plated Mud Butler fenders would go perfectly with the dark blue frame and brown leather saddle/grips combo. But it doesn't look as good as I had imagined.
What say you all?
I am in the process right now of replacing the silver crank, seatpost, and stem with black pieces from the parts bin. Maybe I'll test-fit the fenders again after that, and it will all fall into place.
Early rides feel promising. I can see why Trek has such a following.
.
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
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10-14-19, 09:36 AM
#2329
aka Tom Reingold
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@greg3rd48, how does the PX10 ride? It looks nice!
I spent only 15 minutes on my McLean. I installed the "new" front derailleur but didn't install the new cable. Can y'all see the picture?
I spent only 15 minutes on my McLean. I installed the "new" front derailleur but didn't install the new cable. Can y'all see the picture?
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
10-14-19, 11:28 AM
#2330
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@greg3rd48, how does the PX10 ride? It looks nice!
I spent only 15 minutes on my McLean. I installed the "new" front derailleur but didn't install the new cable. Can y'all see the picture?
I spent only 15 minutes on my McLean. I installed the "new" front derailleur but didn't install the new cable. Can y'all see the picture?
How do you like that VO crank??
10-14-19, 04:06 PM
#2331
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I picked up this 1981 Trek 412 (One of the Waterford bikes) from a local flipper. Here's the photo from the ad:
It was in beautiful, original condition, nicely cleaned and polished, but for me practically unrideable the way it was set up. I've recently developed a formula, or maybe recipe is a better word, for improving the old sporting road bikes into something I am comfortable riding.
One part of that recipe is to convert them from downtube friction shifting to high-quality, thumb-shifted-and-indexed 1 x 9 or 10-speed. Of course, this necessitates cold-setting the rear axle spacing from 126 to 130 or 135mm. I've done this enough times now that I have it down to a science.
One thing I have discovered is that, instead of a two-step process of spreading and then aligning, I can do both with the same tool:
This is more accurate because I can turn each side out the exact same number of turns until I get to the 155mm that results in a 130mm spread when the alignment tool is removed.
Once I got the drivetrain and new wheelset in-place, I decided to mock-up the rest of the bike into what I had originally envisioned this project to be; another stylish and speedy commuter:
Here is where I need some help. I really thought the copper-plated Mud Butler fenders would go perfectly with the dark blue frame and brown leather saddle/grips combo. But it doesn't look as good as I had imagined.
What say you all?
I am in the process right now of replacing the silver crank, seatpost, and stem with black pieces from the parts bin. Maybe I'll test-fit the fenders again after that, and it will all fall into place.
Early rides feel promising. I can see why Trek has such a following.
.
It was in beautiful, original condition, nicely cleaned and polished, but for me practically unrideable the way it was set up. I've recently developed a formula, or maybe recipe is a better word, for improving the old sporting road bikes into something I am comfortable riding.
One part of that recipe is to convert them from downtube friction shifting to high-quality, thumb-shifted-and-indexed 1 x 9 or 10-speed. Of course, this necessitates cold-setting the rear axle spacing from 126 to 130 or 135mm. I've done this enough times now that I have it down to a science.
One thing I have discovered is that, instead of a two-step process of spreading and then aligning, I can do both with the same tool:
This is more accurate because I can turn each side out the exact same number of turns until I get to the 155mm that results in a 130mm spread when the alignment tool is removed.
Once I got the drivetrain and new wheelset in-place, I decided to mock-up the rest of the bike into what I had originally envisioned this project to be; another stylish and speedy commuter:
Here is where I need some help. I really thought the copper-plated Mud Butler fenders would go perfectly with the dark blue frame and brown leather saddle/grips combo. But it doesn't look as good as I had imagined.
What say you all?
I am in the process right now of replacing the silver crank, seatpost, and stem with black pieces from the parts bin. Maybe I'll test-fit the fenders again after that, and it will all fall into place.
Early rides feel promising. I can see why Trek has such a following.
.
10-14-19, 04:20 PM
#2332
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Here is where I need some help. I really thought the copper-plated Mud Butler fenders would go perfectly with the dark blue frame and brown leather saddle/grips combo. But it doesn't look as good as I had imagined.
What say you all?
I am in the process right now of replacing the silver crank, seatpost, and stem with black pieces from the parts bin. Maybe I'll test-fit the fenders again after that, and it will all fall into place.
Early rides feel promising. I can see why Trek has such a following.
.
I don't like the stem bar combo either. It's silly to have a large rise stem and then bars with drop, without even a hand position at the high point. The silver & black together clashes too.
you're also missing your front rack and metal basket zip tied on it.
10-14-19, 08:53 PM
#2333
Partially Sane.
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I like the looks of that Trek, mostly. You did say it's still a work in progress, so final judgement is still pending. 😉
For wrenching, I repacked my front hub this morning, and my headset late this afternoon. Both really needed it, and that's why it took longer than I expected.
I still need to grab a pic, when my hands are relatively clean, but the little seals on the axle nuts clearly say King Kong, lol. 😁
For wrenching, I repacked my front hub this morning, and my headset late this afternoon. Both really needed it, and that's why it took longer than I expected.
I still need to grab a pic, when my hands are relatively clean, but the little seals on the axle nuts clearly say King Kong, lol. 😁
10-15-19, 08:58 AM
#2334
Old Boy
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Thanks! But it already looks better... read on.
Ahhh, there's nothing quite like Kiwi Logic. 
I'm not sure how much of your reply is serious, and how much is bollocks. As for the handlebar setup, it took me a long time to settle on this, but I really like it. Coming from 30-some years on motorcycles, I'm not used to having multiple hand positions; just one position that is as comfortable as possible.
The final revision is coming together. It's wearing black crankset, stem, seatpost, and handlebar now. Fenders are next...
I really like it. I like this kind of thing in general too. So i'm nitpicking but I think your brown saddle and grips clash both with the copper fenders and with the black spoked wheels and the black bars. To me, a brown brooks only looks good on a bike with all shiny silver parts.
I don't like the stem bar combo either. It's silly to have a large rise stem and then bars with drop, without even a hand position at the high point. The silver & black together clashes too.
you're also missing your front rack and metal basket zip tied on it.
I don't like the stem bar combo either. It's silly to have a large rise stem and then bars with drop, without even a hand position at the high point. The silver & black together clashes too.
you're also missing your front rack and metal basket zip tied on it.
I'm not sure how much of your reply is serious, and how much is bollocks. As for the handlebar setup, it took me a long time to settle on this, but I really like it. Coming from 30-some years on motorcycles, I'm not used to having multiple hand positions; just one position that is as comfortable as possible.
__________________
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
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10-15-19, 10:27 AM
#2335
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Thanks! But it already looks better... read on.
Ahhh, there's nothing quite like Kiwi Logic. I'm not sure how much of your reply is serious, and how much is bollocks. As for the handlebar setup, it took me a long time to settle on this, but I really like it. Coming from 30-some years on motorcycles, I'm not used to having multiple hand positions; just one position that is as comfortable as possible.
The final revision is coming together. It's wearing black crankset, stem, seatpost, and handlebar now. Fenders are next...
Ahhh, there's nothing quite like Kiwi Logic.
I'm not sure how much of your reply is serious, and how much is bollocks. As for the handlebar setup, it took me a long time to settle on this, but I really like it. Coming from 30-some years on motorcycles, I'm not used to having multiple hand positions; just one position that is as comfortable as possible. The final revision is coming together. It's wearing black crankset, stem, seatpost, and handlebar now. Fenders are next...
10-16-19, 01:27 AM
#2337
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Would you believe the cables pads and lever adjuster covers/rubbers all arrived from different countries at the same time.
After much fluffing around with the brake setup the bikes in a rideable state. But still a few items in the post...
After much fluffing around with the brake setup the bikes in a rideable state. But still a few items in the post...
10-16-19, 07:14 AM
#2339
Old Boy
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Looks, or Performance?
The copper-ish fenders are just a bit too blingy on this bike, so I'm not using them. I've converted to all black hardware (except the RD), ordered another Woody's Chopped Chort mudguard for the rear, and I'm going to 700c x 35mm Panaracer T-Servs from the 32s that are on there now. These will just clear in the space that would have been taken up by full fenders.
I also changed out the saddle for one that I've broken in already. The darker brown goes better with the black hardware. Overall, the bike is looking pretty sporty now:
Check out that cool seatpost I found for twenty-two bucks! Between that slightly laid-back position and the longer stem, the riding position is now almost perfect. I'm going to lower the stem by about an inch and see what that does.
Did Trek not believe in water bottle braze-ons back in 1981? I'm looking for a clean solution to that problem now - I won't be putting a handlebar cage on this bike. Any suggestions?
.
I also changed out the saddle for one that I've broken in already. The darker brown goes better with the black hardware. Overall, the bike is looking pretty sporty now:
Check out that cool seatpost I found for twenty-two bucks! Between that slightly laid-back position and the longer stem, the riding position is now almost perfect. I'm going to lower the stem by about an inch and see what that does.
Did Trek not believe in water bottle braze-ons back in 1981? I'm looking for a clean solution to that problem now - I won't be putting a handlebar cage on this bike. Any suggestions?
.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
10-16-19, 07:20 AM
#2340
Old Boy
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But apparently somebody else here in the `States thinks the same way: Old Rockhoppers
.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
10-16-19, 06:14 PM
#2341
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Wow, I thought you were kidding!
But apparently somebody else here in the `States thinks the same way: Old Rockhoppers
.
But apparently somebody else here in the `States thinks the same way: Old Rockhoppers
.
The rest is all in good fun. Hot takes on bicycle aesthetics can never be totally serious. Your bike is awesome and i think you can handle a bit of silly nitpicking.
10-16-19, 06:14 PM
#2342
Senior Member
Put on some alloy wheels and greased the bb on the ss. 
10-16-19, 08:04 PM
#2343
Old Boy
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I'm dead serious about the basket. Mine is below (pic from a few years ago). A nitto m18 would be in order for your trek. You can get copper baskets from homeware stores too, that might look cool.
The rest is all in good fun. Hot takes on bicycle aesthetics can never be totally serious. Your bike is awesome and i think you can handle a bit of silly nitpicking.
The rest is all in good fun. Hot takes on bicycle aesthetics can never be totally serious. Your bike is awesome and i think you can handle a bit of silly nitpicking.
Last edited by DQRider; 10-17-19 at 07:44 AM.
10-17-19, 12:43 PM
#2344
señor miembro
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Per Sheldon's instruction, I made a fixed cup remover tool. It was $11.
The only differences with mine: a 3/8" socket (and extension), my bolt is a bit longer, and I added another lock washer. I also greased it.
It didn't work the first time on my Miyata 912, which made me wonder if I was using it correctly. I loosened the tool, sprayed some Freeze-Off in there, and tried again. Success!
Sure was difficult to remove the nut afterwards.
The only differences with mine: a 3/8" socket (and extension), my bolt is a bit longer, and I added another lock washer. I also greased it.
It didn't work the first time on my Miyata 912, which made me wonder if I was using it correctly. I loosened the tool, sprayed some Freeze-Off in there, and tried again. Success!
Sure was difficult to remove the nut afterwards.
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10-17-19, 02:27 PM
#2346
señor miembro
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After removing the SR Apex crank and rifled campy cups, I mounted a Triomphe bb and crankset to the Miyata.
I lose some of the climbing ability, but I gain some bad assness.
It will run a little smoother, too. I couldn't run an 8-speed chain with the other crankset. The narrow chain was skating between the SR rings on occasion.
I lose some of the climbing ability, but I gain some bad assness.
It will run a little smoother, too. I couldn't run an 8-speed chain with the other crankset. The narrow chain was skating between the SR rings on occasion.
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10-17-19, 07:18 PM
#2348
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Just got done with this:
Put an older set of tubulars on it with fresh rubber. The rear was a modern hub though so I had to convert another new 9 speed cassette to 8 speed (Campagnolo) for it all to work. Dropped a decent 10 ozs off with this swap and should get a better ride out of it now.
Put an older set of tubulars on it with fresh rubber. The rear was a modern hub though so I had to convert another new 9 speed cassette to 8 speed (Campagnolo) for it all to work. Dropped a decent 10 ozs off with this swap and should get a better ride out of it now.
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Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
10-17-19, 08:08 PM
#2349
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After removing the SR Apex crank and rifled campy cups, I mounted a Triomphe bb and crankset to the Miyata.
I lose some of the climbing ability, but I gain some bad assness.
It will run a little smoother, too. I couldn't run an 8-speed chain with the other crankset. The narrow chain was skating between the SR rings on occasion.
I lose some of the climbing ability, but I gain some bad assness.
It will run a little smoother, too. I couldn't run an 8-speed chain with the other crankset. The narrow chain was skating between the SR rings on occasion.
10-17-19, 08:16 PM
#2350
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Just finished up my 1993 Bridgestone MB 1 yesterday and took it out for a 40 mile spin today with some gravel and a fair amount of climbing. The bike handles great. It's pretty much all showroom. The only things I changed were the tires, grips, brake pads, and pedals. The crank brothers stamp 1 pedal rocks and they're light (329 grams). The kool stop pads are terrific as are the schwalbe touring supreme tires. I like the new grips as well, ODI Rogue lock on grips.
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