DorkDisk

Started working on this 91 Haro Extreme.

First I just wanted to make it street safe as it had no brake ferrules. Yesterday I trued the rims, replaced the freehub body with 8sp, repacked the bearings, and installed new tires. I also swapped out the Rapidfire and 4 finger levers for XT thumbies and two finger levers. Long and low stem also had to go.

I had this bike back in 92 (killed it in 94) and am stoked to have it back again.

RiddleOfSteel

Thank you for the vote of confidence. I bumped the price up to the other end of the range I was considering. I'm not worried about getting too greedy a price, considering what I'd clear for the initial asking price. I did have a 7-speed Mavic MA/MA2 wheelset with RX100 hubs and a freehub body. That went away with a big Trek I sold to a guy. That same wheelset would have been in the running for the Allez I'm building now, or...well, a few other bikes. I picked up the Gipiemme wheelset at this year's Seattle Bike Swap for $75, which I thought was a steal. Seller had tried CL and couldn't move them. I was glad the hubs were FW (for the rear) as that allowed me to use a proper 13-34T Shimano 600 6-speed FW instead of a 7-speed cassette with Hyperglide teeth. Too close a spacing and too eager to shift for a nearly 40-year-old friction shifter pair, that's for sure.

seedsbelize 

I'm building a new town bike for myself. A 78 World Sports with upright bars and a single speed rear, and no derailleurs. My first single speed in a long, long time. Photo shortly

3speedslow

Switching a few things on my 88 Voyageur. Plans for an early 3 day tour come Sept.

Nemosengineer 

Built a 7/8" seatpost out of a cosmetically challenged Campy Record seatpost and 12 inches of precision 6061 T651 aluminum bar stock for a Klunker project.
The bar stock was tapered to a 100 degree included angle to match the drill point at the top of the Campy seat post stub, then the OD turned down to achieve a light press fit with full engagement.
The alloy of the Campy stub was unknown which was a problem... The alloy in question was identified using a Olympus handheld XRF analyzer, the result was 94.62% aluminum and 3.74% copper, with the reminder being magnesium and trace elements, that chemistry matches up with 2024 aluminum which is a very difficult alloy to weld.
My buddy the aerospace welder recommended 4042 aluminum filler rod as the best bet for this combination, we welded up a test coupon (TIG) of the above combination of alloys and deemed the combination of 3 different alloys successful. The final product is shown below.





: Mike

cog_nate 

Got this Axis fixed up a bit, still need to adjust replace the saddle. It'll probably be heading out to Colorado for my uncle, who has been bogarting my cousin's ride (a Schwinn KOM) and needs his own bike.

philbob57

Swapped my Ultra-6 speed 14-26 freewheel for a Shimano 7-speed 14-28. Kept my Suntour Power Shifters and V-GT der. The der doesn't have the range for all 7 cogs, but the shifting is so much better with the Shimano HG freewheel that I don't care much. I thought I'd want to add indexing, but the HG is a big improvement in itself. So I've moved my 1973 bike into the '80s.

I do want to switchto a der that has enough range for 7 speeds. Maybe even 8.

ITALVEGA_6955

Early 1970's Italvega, bit of a frankenbike. Trying to get a mix of 1970 - 2000 Italian and Japanese components to play nicely together all while reading bikeforums and working to get to my first 10 posts so I can add pictures.

OTS 

Wow, nice work.
I need to find me an aerospace welder buddy !!!!

OTS 

Can you post a picture of your set up?
I think a SunTour V-GT derailleur should be able to handle 28t

SunTour rear derailleur for 32t

ALSO

Disraeli Gears

philbob57

Aaargh! Photo not necessary - I botched the adjustment. I woke up this morning realizing what the problem was: in adjusting the outermost cog I kept the original tension on the cable.

A short while ago I did a proper adjustment after installation, and voila! All 14 speeds, at least on the stand. It's raining today, but tomorrow is supposed to be stellar, so I'll test and tweak as necessary. This is something I used to call a 'BUE' - blatant user error.

ThermionicScott 

Here's a wrenching experiment I'm likely to pull the plug on. My rando bike uses a KlickFix handlebar-mounted bag that is well-designed and made, but I can really feel its high center of gravity when loaded up and I'm riding out of the saddle exuberantly. I've read that having the front load mounted as low as possible is the key to stability, and I'd love to be able to ride this bike no-hands at a wider range of speeds than presently, if only for peace of mind.

I figured that since the bag itself has a nice reinforcing "skeleton" perhaps I don't need a complete front rack with a platform and stays. I cut out, bent, and drilled a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet so that it could mount to the centerpull pivot bolts, and the bag could then mount to the aluminum plate:




The idea was that if all the mounting points were close enough together, the thick aluminum wouldn't flex, and the plate would easily handle the load. Maybe even save some weight over the KlickFix mount, after I'd trimmed off all the excess metal.

I did a test ride with a brick attached to the bag shell, and the mount still flexed noticeably. And as I feared, it wasn't very stable side-to-side without stays, so the brake would shift off-center and rub. A better design would include stays, probably at the end of a platform, but then the weight would approach if not surpass what I have in the KlickFix system. And since I haven't had a good conclusive experience of a low-mounted front load, I'm torn between that and saving weight (this is the bike I'm trying to get down to 25 lbs or less.) None of the Compass/Rene Herse racks will play with my brakes, either. So I dunno.

CV-6 

Swapped the 47/34 Stronglight (TA rings) double off the Sauvage Lejeune. Replaced with 47/40/27 triple of the same ilk.

jbchybridrider 

Im back on the Sakae frame project. Had other commitments but back into it. Only have the seat tube and one chain stay to do (wet sanding for a light brushed look) then i can mask up the main tubes to paint the lugs. After that decals and a full clear coat.

xiaoman1 

^^^^Nice work...
Ben

nomadmax 

I am always stunned with your projects, bicycle and motorcycle.

Nemosengineer 

Hi Nomad.
I am trying so hard not to go out and buy a new Royal Enfield Interceptor, one showed up at work and its pretty cool, check out the link!!!

https://www.royalenfield.com/in/en/m...s/interceptor/

: Mike

abshipp 

Converted my Motobecane Grand Jubile to fixed gear last night.

I had been having issues with the Huret Jubile drivetrain, and it looked like the best solution would involve throwing money at it, which is in short supply right now. I still wanted to ride it, though, and coincidentally I hated how my other fixed gear looked with super gaudy gold anodized deep-v wheels I am borrowing from a buddy, so I figured I would kill two birds with one stone and just convert the Motobecane.

Re-dished the rear wheel, stole the cog, chain, and crankset from the ugly fixed gear, and here we are.

I still need to do some tweaking like installing a 5mm shorter spindle so that I can get the chainring on the outside of the crank, but it's quiet and the chain doesn't show any indications of wanting to jump off. I'd also like to put a 42 or 44 tooth chainring on, but my current 1/8" chain is just barely long enough for the 40x16 I have on it now.

OTS 

Like the nice clean look of this.
Nice work

deux jambes

This wheel has been quite the teacher over the past few days as I’ve never so much as taken on a simple trueing job before.

Fairly straight & round to begin with, but spoke tensions were all over the place. Best solution I could figure was to basically rebuild. In other words, the wheel was completely loosened & each nipple came off one at a time for a lubricating dose of Tenacious Oil to ease the rest rest of the process.

As of this morning it’s finally dialed into the zone. Radially true to within 0.90 mm & the only hop being at at the seam. Drive side tension is at ~100kgf while non drive is ~65kgf with no more than 10% deviation in either side. Radially less than 2 mm lateral runout & dish is just about spot on.

It’s ready for the fine adjustments, and finishing. And I’m ready for more learning!

abshipp 

Thanks!

70s bikes lend themselves nicely to singlespeed conversions since there typically aren't any braze-ons.

Really easy to get nice clean lines.

SurferRosa

That's super hot.

Tell us what saddle bag and bar tape/color that is please.

abshipp 

Thanks!

Saddlebag is a Tourbon Canvas and Leather Saddlebag.

Bar tape is red Tressostar.

SurferRosa

Found some perfect Triomphe brake calipers on craigs and thought I would remove the best bits to replace the tarnished bits on my own set of Triomphe brakes on the '87 Falcon.

Was about halfway done with the surgery of the front brake when I realized the arms of the two sets didn't work together. Wha?? So I was just going to use most of the new set when I mounted it in the frame to find it was a longer reach altogether! Wha?? Who knew these came in different sizes?? The reach is at least 6mm longer, but really difficult to determine just by sight. Well, at least I got to use the nicer pads and barrel adjusters...

<charliebrown"rats"gif>

52telecaster

Building a new wheel with a shutter precision sv9 36 hole hub with a sun cr18 rim. It will be the new front wheel on my bob jackson. Weighs 1100 grams on the kitchen scale....