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Schwinn Conti BB Conversion - Need Component Assistance

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Schwinn Conti BB Conversion - Need Component Assistance

Old 07-14-16, 10:05 AM
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wkatastrof
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Schwinn Conti BB Conversion - Need Component Assistance

Greetings,


My Ashtabula style bottom bracket shell has some wear in it, that I think I can mitigate by converting to a 3 piece crank using the TruAtiv converter. Conversion brings it to 68mm English style threading.


I've got a 5 speed SunRace freewheel on the rear, and switched back to the French-made "Schwinn Approved" derailleur in the rear after the Shimano Tourney derailleur got badly bent when my wheel semi-taco'd while riding in a thunderstorm in 2011.


I have no front derailleur, but would like to add one.


I have the original stem friction shifters in place.


The stock chainrings seem to be about 52-40 or so. This worked fine when I live in New Jersey, as it was mostly flat and I almost never used the 52. Now that I've moved to Southwest Virginia (Appalachia), I have a really hard time getting around due to the steep hills and mountains.


I need some suggestions here. It looks like the Sugino compact double cranksets are something similar to what I want; common square taper standard, no pins and grooves for shifting, and not a triple, which may not fit on my bike.. It looks like they have two models, the 48-34ct and the 44-26ct.


So, would the 34 chainring be enough for climbing hills and stuff? Or would I need to drop down to the 26? For either of these, which front 28.* derailleur should I get? (My downtube is 25.4mm, so it would need to be shimmed...)


Which bottom bracket spindle, 107mm or 110mm?


Thanks for your input. I don't want to get a new frame or different bike, this has been my main for 8 years now. I'd like to get parts that are quality and will last thousands of miles, unlike the Shimano Tourney line.
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Old 07-14-16, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by wkatastrof View Post
I have no front derailleur, but would like to add one.
Keep in mind your bike probably has a 1" diameter seat tube, and will require a front derailleur for that (now uncommon) size tube. Your best bet is likely the old parts bin at your LBS or bike co-op. Or you could use a shim:



https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=12155

Which bottom bracket spindle, 107mm or 110mm?
Chose your crank first, then use the spindle length that crank calls for.

Last edited by JohnDThompson; 07-14-16 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 07-14-16, 12:02 PM
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1. Bottom bracket spindle length will be determined by which crank you buy. The crank manufacturer will specify a BB Spindle dimension.

2. I can't comment on gearing. Too much is unknown about your fitness level and the grade and length of the hills.

3. What year bike is this? I ask because some of the old Schwinns had a bottom bracket that was offset toward the drive side by about 4mms. Not centered on the downtube joint. Just keep that in mind when selecting BB spindle length and BB symmetry.

4. I like these adapters better than the Truvativ. The recesses are more precisely sized (Diameter and depth) so the Bottom brackets have a more sanitary flush fit.

Euro to American Bicycle Bottom Bracket Adapter - SILVER | Porkchop BMX
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Old 07-14-16, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Keep in mind your bike probably has a 1" diameter seat tube, and will require a front derailleur for that (now uncommon) size tube. Your best bet is likely the old parts bin at your LBS or bike co-op. Or you could use a shim:
Originally Posted by wkatastrof
So, would the 34 chainring be enough for climbing hills and stuff? Or would I need to drop down to the 26? For either of these, which front 28.* derailleur should I get? (My downtube is 25.4mm, so it would need to be shimmed...)
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Chose your crank first, then use the spindle length that crank calls for.

Harris Cyclery has "Usually 107mm for road frames and 110mm for MTB frames." when choosing the Sugino compact double crank, 48-34.
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Old 07-14-16, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
1. Bottom bracket spindle length will be determined by which crank you buy. The crank manufacturer will specify a BB Spindle dimension.

Harris Cyclery has "Usually 107mm for road frames and 110mm for MTB frames." when choosing the Sugino compact double crank, 48-34.

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
2. I can't comment on gearing. Too much is unknown about your fitness level and the grade and length of the hills.

I'm about 220lb, on the 58cm tall frame. Stock chainrings are 50-42 I think. I used the 42 almost exclusively including on moderate hills (so vague, I know) but can't go up mountains. (Like mill mountain in Roanoke VA for example)

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
3. What year bike is this? I ask because some of the old Schwinns had a bottom bracket that was offset toward the drive side by about 4mms. Not centered on the downtube joint. Just keep that in mind when selecting BB spindle length and BB symmetry.

1976 CONTINENTAL (sport)
10 speed, stem shifters. 38 to 100 gear range. GT-260 front derailleur. Chain wheel guard. Oval head badge. Name on top tube(new). Alloy Randonneur handlebars. Center pull brakes with suicide levers. Full chrome tubular fork. 27 x1¼ tires. Colors were Sky Blue, Chestnut, and Silver Mist. Frame sizes were men’s 20", 22", 24", 26"; women’s (curved bar) 19", 22". Chrome fenders available.


(If you're curious, I've added: Persons leather saddle, Wald Seat post, PlanetWaves fenders, Panasonic Kevlar tires, Alloy wheels (27), Kool Stop red brake pads, Sunrace 5-spd freewheel, crane creek brake levers...)

Originally Posted by SquidPuppet View Post
4. I like these adapters better than the Truvativ. The recesses are more precisely sized (Diameter and depth) so the Bottom brackets have a more sanitary flush fit.

Euro to American Bicycle Bottom Bracket Adapter - SILVER | Porkchop BMX

Damn... I just bought the Truvativ...




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Old 07-14-16, 01:05 PM
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It sounds like you've got a lot of thought and a fair amount of money invested in this bike.

I ride triples- generally in the neighborhood of 50-45-28. Generally.

I don't live in hill country, but when I get to a hill and I'm already in the biggest rear cog- I'm happy to drop into that 28 in the front. The one crankset that I had a 26 on seemed too small, and I changed it for a 28.

If you want to do a double- I'd go for the 48-34, and if necessary, find a freewheel that'll have a bigger low end- like 30-34. If necessary.

As far as derailleurs go- Suntour is the cat's pyjamas. A VGT Luxe would be perfect for that bike. As far as the front- I love the Suntour Mountech- the Mountech RD was not so good, the FD was one of the all time greats.

I know you said you want to continue using the Continental, but if you hadn't changed out wheels, you're lugging around almost twice the weight of a decent 531/CrMo bike, and you're playing with danger if it's wet out (as you've discovered).

A Continental is a fine cruiser for flat land, if you're in no hurry and it's nice out. If you want a Schwinn with that styling- keep an eye out for a Super Sport or a Sports Tourer. IMO a World Voyageur or Voyageur or LeTour or even a post 83 World Sport give a real quality frame, and upgradeable to a really good bike- a Contintntal kind of locks you to a 35+ pound bike- and you've seen the problems it's created for you.

That being said, the Continental has a great style to it.

Best Wishes
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Old 07-14-16, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
I ride triples- generally in the neighborhood of 50-45-28. Generally.

I don't live in hill country, but when I get to a hill and I'm already in the biggest rear cog- I'm happy to drop into that 28 in the front. The one crankset that I had a 26 on seemed too small, and I changed it for a 28.

If you want to do a double- I'd go for the 48-34, and if necessary, find a freewheel that'll have a bigger low end- like 30-34. If necessary.
I'm assuming that the triple will be too wide and that the chainline will be too diagonal on certain gear combinations. This is why I wanted to go double. Is this possibly the case?

Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
As far as derailleurs go- Suntour is the cat's pyjamas. A VGT Luxe would be perfect for that bike. As far as the front- I love the Suntour Mountech- the Mountech RD was not so good, the FD was one of the all time greats.
How does the wear look on this one? Usable?

Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
A Continental is a fine cruiser for flat land, if you're in no hurry and it's nice out. If you want a Schwinn with that styling- keep an eye out for a Super Sport or a Sports Tourer. IMO a World Voyageur or Voyageur or LeTour or even a post 83 World Sport give a real quality frame, and upgradeable to a really good bike- a Contintntal kind of locks you to a 35+ pound bike- and you've seen the problems it's created for you.
I will keep that in mind in case this frame ever finally gives out!
My other frame is a 1980 Pug that has some headset problems. Its so much lighter than the Conti.
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Old 07-15-16, 12:51 AM
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I will keep that in mind in case this frame ever finally gives out!

That frame will NEVER give out, but you might.
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Old 07-15-16, 01:21 AM
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You can find the correct size front Derailleur on Ebay. This is a Continental I restored a while ago.

Vintage Schwinn Front Derailleur Changer 1" Chrome Steel Road Bike | eBay



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Old 07-15-16, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
I will keep that in mind in case this frame ever finally gives out!

That frame will NEVER give out, but you might.

Exact thought I had.
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Old 07-15-16, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by wkatastrof View Post
I'm assuming that the triple will be too wide and that the chainline will be too diagonal on certain gear combinations. This is why I wanted to go double. Is this possibly the case?

How does the wear look on this one? Usable? Vintage Suntour Mountech 28 6 Bottom Pull Front Derailluer | eBay

I will keep that in mind in case this frame ever finally gives out!
My other frame is a 1980 Pug that has some headset problems. Its so much lighter than the Conti.

I don't see why a triple would be too wide for a Continental vs any other bike. You just have to use the correct spindle. Any of the extreme "big-big" or "small-small" cross-chaining combinations are bad on any bike.


I don't like the look of that derailleur. The outer cage looks so worn it looks bent.


Happy riding!
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Old 07-15-16, 08:31 AM
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Wow, this looks like an appealing tooth count on the front:

IRD Defiant Wide Double Compact Crankset 46T-30T

That NOS Schwinn Derailleur would probably be what I get; thanks for that suggestion.
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Old 07-15-16, 03:13 PM
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What's wrong with the Pug's headset?
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Old 07-18-16, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
What's wrong with the Pug's headset?
In 2011 I wanted to regrease the headset. It seemed to work OK but this bike had been sitting in a garage for twenty years. I went to loose bearings from caged bearings and lost the cages. Now when the headset is adjusted to not have any play, the headset binds when turning the bars/wheel to the left 70 degrees (if straight ahead is 90).
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Old 07-18-16, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wkatastrof View Post
when the headset is adjusted to not have any play, the headset binds when turning the bars/wheel to the left 70 degrees (if straight ahead is 90).
If you're certain that the cups and crown race are fully and properly seated, that behavior is usually an indication that the head tube faces and/or the fork crown race seat are not perfectly parallel. The fix is to mill the head tube and/or fork crown race seat so that they are all parallel.
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Old 07-18-16, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
If you're certain that the cups and crown race are fully and properly seated, that behavior is usually an indication that the head tube faces and/or the fork crown race seat are not perfectly parallel. The fix is to mill the head tube and/or fork crown race seat so that they are all parallel.
Prior to finding a LBS that will mill the faces, how do I check that they are properly seated? Remove the cups and re-press them in? Can I make my own press with a threaded rod and some washers?

Eventually I will start another thread for the pug...
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Old 07-18-16, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Angelo View Post
You can find the correct size front Derailleur on Ebay. This is a Continental I restored a while ago.

Vintage Schwinn Front Derailleur Changer 1" Chrome Steel Road Bike | eBay
Will the stock derailleur be able to handle the 16t jump of a 46-30 double crankset?
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Old 07-18-16, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wkatastrof View Post
Prior to finding a LBS that will mill the faces, how do I check that they are properly seated?
Look where the cup meets the head tube. There should be no gap visible all the way around.

Can I make my own press with a threaded rod and some washers?
Yes, that will help if the cups aren't properly seated. It won't fix anything if the faces aren't parallel, though.
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Old 07-18-16, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by wkatastrof View Post
Will the stock derailleur be able to handle the 16t jump of a 46-30 double crankset?
I haven't tried it with those exact parts, but my guess is "yes." I've used other derailleurs from that period with similar jumps and it worked.
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Old 07-19-16, 07:55 AM
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I always use a Shimano cartridge bottom bracket with the adapter kits. That way there's no need to worry about parallel surfaces. Saves the cost/time of trying to make everything perfect.
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