Handlebar dilemma
 

I've got a mid- to late 80's Gardin race bike which I've recently updated to proper era Shimano 105's. Everything on it works great...except the handlebar/brake lever set-up. Old vintage handlebars combined with the skinny brake levers just aren't comfortable. I'm thinking of putting on a modern handlebar that's more ergo, but am hesitant to do so as it'd ruin the vintage.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/142659.../shares/Bk9rN6

The setup puts too much pressure on the hands, I find. I could tilt the handlebar up a bit, but then it'd be difficult to access the levers from the drops.

Any suggestions?

EDIT: Sorry, not sure why the link to the pic do not work.:-(

your photo didn't come out, so didn't get to see your levers
one suggestion is find Modolo 919 anatomic hoods (only for non aero).
They're great.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../aP9240014.jpg

someone else may have a suggestion on hoods for aero levers.
otherwise,
Modolo levers are also the most positive-function brake levers I know

My daughter's go-fast has Tektro aero levers, and they have very wide hoods.

My bar looks very similar to yours. I find there's not enough of 'flat' area on which to rest my hands on the hoods. Riding on the drops is acceptable, but still not as comfortable as modern bars.

OP, I'm wondering if you should step back and check your fit on the bike. Pics don't reveal enough but maybe you're not centred on your saddle, the stem could be long and there's too much weight on your wrists. Those bars are already angled too high, as are the levers. I don't think puffy large hoods are the solution to your problem.

OK why did I see pics and now I don't??

+1, it's very possible the top tube and/or stem is too long for you.

If you prefer modern bars and levers, IMHO put them on.

FYI the hoods at the time were not the default rest position like they are now. You will never get them to work that way. Making the hoods the main position all began with Shimano Total Integration. Hoods used to be just one alternate position. On race bikes, they were placed well forward and used as an aero alternative to the drops for going fast in pacelines etc, and also for climbing. The main rest positions were the tops and the upper corner bends.

Any time someone says this I automatically (and often correctly) think that they have their seat too far forward and/or their stem too short. It's not the handlebars that are causing too much pressure on the hands but your position on the bike.

If you are looking for more flat behind the hoods, you should take a look at rando bars. They don't quite look the part on a race bike, but many find the hand positions worth it.

+1
It goes almost counter to a modern bike but I found with the old style bars the hoods were one of the least comfortable positions. The top and the beginning of the ramps yes, the drops yes. And the saddle often needs to move back a bit. At least on my Peugeot it did. Maybe because the drop from the saddle to the bar is flatter so you have to sit flatter I don't know.

Yep. Glad someone else remembers this.

Also, if using old school levers, do not descend on the hoods!!!!!! Hood position is not for braking, except minor speed adjustment, warm up and warm down after the ride, while going slow and telling jokes, talking about girls, cars, etc. For any serious braking, get in the drops.

I rode this bike 30 years ago, with the same levers and handlebars and don't recall being uncomfortable on it. I did change the seat, so that might have something to do with it.

Perhaps, but it's the same size as all my other 'modern' bikes, and I have no such issues with them.

Okay, now that sheds some light on the situation. If they were meant to be ridden this way then it'd explain why it's not comfortable doing so. Thanks for that insight.

And knowing this I will consciously try to not use the hoods, but the tops and drops more so.

My bars are Cinelli 64. They're the original compact bars, short reach and short drop. They're not made to get flat, but proper placement of the non-aero levers with Modolo 919 anatomic hoods makes for 3 good riding positions on the top/hoods with finger/thumb notches designed into the hoods. Palms resting on bends with finger and thumb in notches at base of hoods; hooked on back of hoods with palms resting on bends; hooked on front of hoods

If you're getting pressure/circulation/nerve-pinch, you're riding on your shoulders and neck. You should be supporting yourself with core muscles and loosely holding the bars

Riding on the drops is fine. Riding on the tops is fine also, as is on the bend/ramp. I find riding the hood convenient as it gives me access to the brakes without having to be on the drops all the time, and the drops on my bar is not short.

I'm one of the worst retrogrouches on the forum. I like my bikes period correct and anything newer than 1975 just isn't vintage in my book. That said, I tried some aero Tektro levers on my latest built bike, a 73 Schwinn Super Sport. My hands feel great when riding. Out of the saddle tugging on the levers, great control and comfort. Braking, the lever is contoured just right, from on top of the hoods or from the drops.

The main trick with older bars was to rotate them to tilt the bottoms downward toward the rear, which in turn made the area above the brake levers more comfortable and usable. The second trick was to experiment with the precise location of the levers along the curves of the bars, because subtle changes made a huge difference in on-the-hoods riding comfort. It was sometimes a bit of an iterative experiment -- try a bar position, set the levers as comfortably as possible, then, if necessary, change the bar rotation slightly and readjust the lever position. (Sprint/half tape, which was very popular in the early 1960s, is shown -- I have since gone to regular full tape and shortened the brake cable housings.)

working John's experiment, you will find just 2 or 3 degrees rotation at the stem can make a huge difference down the road

Excellent point. Sometimes elevating the saddle nose very slightly will help, as well, because sliding forward on the saddle puts a lot of load on the hands.

I will give this a try when I get the chance. Thanks.:)

It might, but the biggest change is likely the 30 years.

I found myself not being able to find a comfortable position on my old Raleigh after almost exactly 30 years.
I was constantly moving to hunt for it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...aleigh/gp1.jpg
Next rebuild was a moustache cockpit, and I was riding distance again.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../aP1010004.jpg

LOL You're probably right though. I daresay I am in better physical shape than I was 30 years ago, and just about the same weight as well. But there's no substitute for youth.

This bike has quite a aggressive geometry as well, and at the time it came with tubulars.

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1463657495
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1463657549

Okay, I found a couple of pics.

it looks fast, and built to handle, but it also looks pretty comfortable

I always thought that having the drops parallel to the top tube makes the bike look best, but I'm thinking the bar needs to be rotated upwards a bit and the levers moved further down.

The Soma Highway 1 handlebar has a relatively short reach and drop, and is available with a 26.0 clamp. I've got this bar on several bikes and really like it.