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27" x 1" rim

Old 08-04-16, 11:11 AM
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bassogap
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27" x 1" rim

I'm fixing a friend's 1972 Raleigh Supercourse. I need a new front rim, but can't find a narrow, 1" one....any suggestions? When i google the size, only 1 1/4" comes up...
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Old 08-04-16, 11:17 AM
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look for NOS vintage rims on ebay

actually, that one is narrower - these are 1-inch

this is a pretty good search - make sure you're looking at clincher rims

also, might not be a bad time to upgrade to 700c to take advantage of new tire technology
my buddy's '79 Super Course came with 700c clinchers.

Last edited by bulldog1935; 08-04-16 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 08-04-16, 11:30 AM
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Velo Orange also makes new 27" rims.

VO PBP 27" Rim-36h
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Old 08-04-16, 12:17 PM
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The width designation on rims typically refers to the tyre width that they are compatible with, so that consumers buy the correct tyre. The rims themselves are generally narrower. So, the questions becomes: do you want a rim compatible with a 1" tyre or a rim that is actually 1 " wide?

In most applications my preferred 27" is the Sun CR-18. It is readily available, quite strong (box section with eyelets), and relatively inexpensive ($30-35) but the drawback is the weight. Actual width across the outside of the sidewalls is 22.5mm (~7/8") and it works well with 1"to 1-1/4" tyres, though 1-1/8" is optimum.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:01 PM
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Of course if you hold out long enough, the rim will show up on ebay.

I have a set of 27" x1" Wolber Super Champs spoked with Camp hubs. Nice, light, just the right amount of peculiar for a vintage machine.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:02 PM
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The Weinmann LP-18 is a narrow rim and available in 27".

For comparison's sake:
Sun CR-18: internal width = 18 mm, external width = 22.5 mm
Weinmann LP-18: internal width = 13.6 mm, external width = 19 mm
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Old 08-04-16, 01:22 PM
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i need a very narrow rim to fit a 1" tire.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:29 PM
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my first link will do it for you - Rigida 1320
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Old 08-04-16, 01:38 PM
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For one of my projects, from one of the big online discount houses I recently bought a set of wheels with freewheel-style sealed-bearing hubs, stainless spokes and polished Sun M13II rims in 27x1". They look good, but I only put 50 miles on them so far, no truing or re-tensioning needed.

I also recently put a used set of wheels with Sunshine Gyromaster hubs and Araya 27x1 rims on another project. Again, about 50 miles and no problems.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:39 PM
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Sun's M13 is also a narrow box section rim. Available online in 27", or ask your local bike shop if they can get it through J&B Importers.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:55 PM
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Rims for 27"x1" tires were always pretty uncommon (although I do remember a few bikes with 27'x7/8" tires years ago..), so don't expect much of a selection, and expect to have to buy used. I don't believe there has been a bike made with 27x1 tires in the last 30 years.
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Old 08-04-16, 03:58 PM
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According to the ETRTO, a 1" (25 mm) wide tire will be ideally mated to a rim with an internal width of 13-17 mm. If you're looking for a new replacement, the Sun M13-II and Weinmann LP-18 both fit the bill. They both have internal widths of 13 mm and they're both available in 27".

In case cosmetics matter: The Sun rim is available in polished silver or black anodizing. The Weinmann rim is available in silver anodizing or black anodizing.
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Old 08-04-16, 04:06 PM
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Specialized used to make a nice 27 x 1" tire for tri-guys and girls. Old school by now.
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Old 08-04-16, 04:41 PM
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Do you need just the rim? or the whole wheel???

rim - Sun Alloy Rim 27 x 1 M13 Polished 36 Hole Presta Valve
- or https://www.weinmanntek.com/kyStyle/i...ACE/LP18_b.png

Or they have complete wheels, too...
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Old 08-04-16, 04:44 PM
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i could use either..i just to get the bike repaired as cheaply as possible.
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Old 08-04-16, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bassogap View Post
I'm fixing a friend's 1972 Raleigh Supercourse. I need a new front rim
What's the rear rim? You should try to match that, all other things being equal.
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Old 04-22-17, 06:23 PM
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Sorry to bump this, but please help this newbie to the C&V world out.

I just installed a Sun M13II 27 x 1 rear wheel, and have a 27 x 1 ⅛ tire on it. According to what I've read elsewhere on this forum (and in this thread), this is not completely "ideal", as a Sun CR18 would more fit the bill.

But what are the disadvantages/downsides of this setup? I've also read on the interwebs that any 27 inch tire will fit any 27 inch rim (within reason). Am I within reason?

Thanks
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Old 04-22-17, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirt Farmer View Post
But what are the disadvantages/downsides of this setup?
Narrow rims cause the tire to inflate to a more bulb-like shape, with a narrower "neck" at the bead seat. This causes the rim to not support the tire as sure-footedly, potentially resulting in squirmier handling.

If it's not bothering you, you're probably fine.

I have about 500 miles on a set of M13IIs with 1 1/4" tires. If I changed the wheels I'd probably get wider rims, but the tires have basically been behaving like tires.
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Old 04-22-17, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirt Farmer View Post
Sorry to bump this, but please help this newbie to the C&V world out.

I just installed a Sun M13II 27 x 1 rear wheel, and have a 27 x 1 ⅛ tire on it. According to what I've read elsewhere on this forum (and in this thread), this is not completely "ideal", as a Sun CR18 would more fit the bill.

But what are the disadvantages/downsides of this setup? I've also read on the interwebs that any 27 inch tire will fit any 27 inch rim (within reason). Am I within reason?

Thanks
Stop worrying. That is totally within reason. A narrowish rim like the Sun M13II is ideal for both 1" and 1 1/8" tires. You could even run a 27 x 1 1/4" on it. While that is theoretically not 'ideal', in practice you would never notice anything out of the ordinary.

I recommend you ignore the internet theory de jour about matching tire width. In practice it won't matter unless you are racing down twisty descents, and even then the difference is miniscule and basically amounts to feel.

There is no such thing as a 27x1 rim, btw. The concept of that makes it seem that every rim has it's own proper tire matching width, and it does not. It would be completely ridiculous for you to change rims because some troll on the interwebs told your tires don't match.
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Old 04-24-18, 07:44 PM
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Glad I found this thread, I appreciate seeing the specs for the Weinmann LP-18: internal width = 13.6 mm, external width = 19 mm. The sticker says they're ETRTO 630-14.

I'll be running a pair of these in 27x1 1/8 flavor.

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...64+3767&sg=500

My only concern is the UKAI's I'm replacing are 27x1 1/8 rims and that means the brake pads need to be able to set and adjust as they wear to the narrower rim. It's going on a 1986 Fuji Allegro and Fuji didn't make a bike that came standard with 27x1 rims, it was either a 700c or 27x1 1/8 or 27x1 1/4. Maybe I should've just done a 700c conversion ? But I just put these tires on the bike and love the Conti Ultra Sports. Unfortunately the rims I had were Schrader, these are Presta valves. And another thing, who sells a complete wheelset and doesn't put rim liners on them ? I hate the skewers that came with these new rims and the old one's are perfectly fine. So I'll use them instead. Origin8 hubs RD2100's ? I like my old Sansin's so I will keep them around just in case the Origin8's don't last ?
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Old 04-24-18, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
My only concern is the UKAI's I'm replacing are 27x1 1/8 rims and that means the brake pads need to be able to set and adjust as they wear to the narrower rim.
That's more your responsibility to adjust the brake pads to the new rim.

Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
Unfortunately the rims I had were Schrader, these are Presta valves. And another thing, who sells a complete wheelset and doesn't put rim liners on them
It is not beyond the wit of man to use Schraeder tubes in a rim drilled for Presta, and vice versa. To use Schraeder in a Presta rim, just drill out the hole. To use Presta in a Schraeder rim, use a bushing.

Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
I hate the skewers that came with these new rims and the old one's are perfectly fine. So I'll use them instead.
Good plan!
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Old 04-24-18, 10:57 PM
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I thought about the valve stem thing and drilling out the valve hole on a new wheelset might weaken the rims, so I'll spend the extra cash and do it properly with the presta valve tubes. Some rims have larger valve holes and a bushing already in it for dual compatibility. The brakes, I really didn't give that too much thought when I went after the skinnier rims. Oh well, in theory they should work. I wasn't sure whether or not the side pull hardware my bike is equipped with was designed to grab a skinnier rim. I'll find out though soon enough, they are Dia Compe 500NS per Fuji's 1986 catalog. All the other bikes that have skinnier rims use different models of the Dia Compe or SunTour for the 700c rims. You know, maybe some brake group sets aren't designed for one, but are for a fatter rim size kind of thing. At the end of the day, nobody wants less effective braking.
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Old 04-25-18, 05:23 PM
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Just FYI, the same rims come from the factory optionally drilled for Presta or Schraeder valves.
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Old 04-25-18, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by old's'cool View Post
Just FYI, the same rims come from the factory optionally drilled for Presta or Schraeder valves.
Well, everything went together well, except for the brakes. The narrower, new wheel set and I had to loosen the cable, squeeze the side pull calipers with the brake pads to the rim and then tighten the cable. By doing this, there's constant tension on the spring and the cable as if the brakes were constantly being applied, but without the drag on the rim. There is sufficient travel to brake the wheels with sufficient stopping power and the levers are engaging the brake pads to the rim almost immediately when the levers are squeezed/applied. My questions, what is this going to do to the brake cables and hardware mounted to the frame ? I'm thinking the spring being under that constant load and tension will eventually compress to be applicable to the narrower rims. Either that or the cable will stretch and eventually may snap ? The bolt is tight, so I doubt that will loosen before something else happens ?

Otherwise I think I need to find side pull calipers that are made to engage a 1 inch wide rim ? Another thought, a set of brake pads with a longer mounting bolt and putting spacers in between on the inside of the brake arms ? Another option, bend the spring so that it's not under as much load/tension like it was for the wider rims ?

Any suggestions or advices are greatly appreciated. What would you do if you had the same situation ? From what I can see on-line, the Dia Compe's I have are a 45-55 mm travel and I'm also wondering if just replacing the calipers with 700c modern brake calipers makes more sense or is even compatible ?

BTW, I am not finding anything on a 27x1 Weinmann LP-18 wheel set that is applicable for the Schrader valve on line. The LP-18 that I have is a double wall construction, there's what looks like a baffle construction inside the rim. I'd have to drill out both those walls to get a stubbier Schrader valve thru that. I'll donate the Schrader valve tubes to a worthy cause before I drill these out. Besides 700x25-32c tubes are all Presta valves these days and is $ 10 for a pair worth ruining these rims/wheel set ? In fact that's what I'm using right now, a pair of Bell 700 tubes from Wal-Mart that were $ 9.51 after tax. They used to be $ 3.84 a tube, inflation sucks, so they are now $ 4.44.

Last edited by fuji86; 04-25-18 at 11:53 PM.
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Old 04-26-18, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
...I had to loosen the cable, squeeze the side pull calipers with the brake pads to the rim and then tighten the cable. By doing this, there's constant tension on the spring and the cable as if the brakes were constantly being applied, but without the drag on the rim...

...what is this going to do to the brake cables and hardware mounted to the frame ? I'm thinking the spring being under that constant load and tension will eventually compress to be applicable to the narrower rims. Either that or the cable will stretch and eventually may snap ?
Yep, that sounds like the process to adjust a brake caliper for a rim of different width. It's a little easier with a third hand tool that'll set the caliper where you want it. Regardless of the rim's width, there's always going to be spring tension on a properly-adjusted brake cable. Tension from the caliper spring is what retracts the pads from the rim and gets the brake lever to reset to its resting position.

Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
There is sufficient travel to brake the wheels with sufficient stopping power and the levers are engaging the brake pads to the rim almost immediately when the levers are squeezed/applied.
Sounds like you might have the brake pads positioned a little too close to the rim. You can adjust that via the barrel adjusters on your brake calipers and/or levers. If you don't have enough range on the barrel adjuster, you'll need to reposition the cable as you described above.

Depending on what kind of brakes you have, Park Tool probably has a tutorial to set them up:
Single Pivot Sidepull Brake Service
Dual Pivot Sidepull Brake Service

Sheldon Brown has a page on setting up caliper brakes, too:
Installing and Adjusting Caliper Brakes

Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
Otherwise I think I need to find side pull calipers that are made to engage a 1 inch wide rim ?
Calipers are designed to work with a WIDE range of rim widths. One size fits all, basically.

Originally Posted by fuji86 View Post
From what I can see on-line, the Dia Compe's I have are a 45-55 mm travel and I'm also wondering if just replacing the calipers with 700c modern brake calipers makes more sense or is even compatible ?
When looking at specs for brake calipers, you'll see reach, not travel. Reach is the distance from the brake's mounting bolt to the rim's brake track, as shown on Sheldon Brown's site HERE. It has absolutely nothing to do with rim width or how wide the caliper will open.

There's no such thing as a "700c caliper". The same calipers will work for 700c, 27", 26", 650b, or whatever wheel size you want to run, in whatever width ...so long as the caliper's reach matches the distance between the brake's mounting hole and the rim.
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