Narhay's 1978 Raleigh Competition GS
#1
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Narhay's 1978 Raleigh Competition GS
I picked this one up today. Originally purchased in Little Rock Arkansas. It is in "as found" condition. Campagnolo dropouts, brooks saddle and some Campagnolo gran sport parts. My intention is to redo bearings and ride for a little bit to see if the bike fits me. If it does (1" bigger than my usual frame size) I will be either looking to move the parts from my super course to this one, restore this one with a few replacement bits or potentially make it into a modern 11 speed bike.
It has mismatched wheels. The front looks like a high flange Nuovo tipo with a 27" rim. The rear is a low flange Campagnolo unknown hub with a 700c concave rim. Anyone know what it is?









It has mismatched wheels. The front looks like a high flange Nuovo tipo with a 27" rim. The rear is a low flange Campagnolo unknown hub with a 700c concave rim. Anyone know what it is?










#2
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#3
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Back hub is a nuovo tipo (gran sport) low flange hub. Rim is a Weinmann concave. No one else made concave rims. so it all sort of matches, except for the high flange, low flange thing.... Congrats though, very cool bike.
IMO it's kind of rare to see one of these so unmolested with most of the original parts. At the most I'd consider respacing to 126 and making it 6 or 7 speed. Make matching wheels. Maybe swap the brakes for some neo reissue gran compe centerpulls, or just put new pads and cables on those and call it a day.
IMO it's kind of rare to see one of these so unmolested with most of the original parts. At the most I'd consider respacing to 126 and making it 6 or 7 speed. Make matching wheels. Maybe swap the brakes for some neo reissue gran compe centerpulls, or just put new pads and cables on those and call it a day.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 08-28-16 at 01:59 PM.
#4
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Just realized the title is Nathan, not Narhay...
I'll have to get a bit more familiar with the bike before I choose a direction to go with it. I do like the 14-28 pro comp freewheel. That tall gear will be useful around here. I was worried the gs Rd would not handle 28t
I'll have to get a bit more familiar with the bike before I choose a direction to go with it. I do like the 14-28 pro comp freewheel. That tall gear will be useful around here. I was worried the gs Rd would not handle 28t
#5
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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There was one just like it, even in my size like this one, at an estate auction we attended. I was very good and did not bid on the Raleigh, the very clean Honda Hawk 650 motorcycle and the Ford Ranger pickup I was also interested in. Each sold for very reasonable bids but we got what we went for and I did not endanger my marriage.
#6
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There was one just like it, even in my size like this one, at an estate auction we attended. I was very good and did not bid on the Raleigh, the very clean Honda Hawk 650 motorcycle and the Ford Ranger pickup I was also interested in. Each sold for very reasonable bids but we got what we went for and I did not endanger my marriage.
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Wow the 27 on the front looks enormous compared to the 700 rear. Someone loved that bike-looks like it is in good hands.
#8
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Thanks for the thought, but not buying what I don't need is one of the things that enabled me to retire early. More time to ride the bikes I have. Highly recommended.
#9
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#12
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Nice score, my favorite ride, I hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.
#13
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Thanks for all the great input. Do the cane Creek brake hoods work with these weinmann 605 levers? I've got a pair from the BOC I'd like to press into service.
#14
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Beautiful bike. My friend has one. I love looking at his. The 3 arm crank is sweet.
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#15
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Very cool. If it's too big, drop me a line. 
EDIT: Scanning last night, when I initially replied, it didn't quite register that this bike is the same year as the Raleigh Pro repaint currently en route to me from Ex Pres! Possibly the same size as well? Or perhaps a size down (that one's a 62 ctt, 57 tt)?

EDIT: Scanning last night, when I initially replied, it didn't quite register that this bike is the same year as the Raleigh Pro repaint currently en route to me from Ex Pres! Possibly the same size as well? Or perhaps a size down (that one's a 62 ctt, 57 tt)?
Last edited by mikemowbz; 08-29-16 at 08:50 AM.
#17
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If the title bothers you, ask a moderator to change the spelling for you. Just a thought.
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#18
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This is the problem area on the top tube. The rust doesn't go deep but it has ruined the paint in this location. I will see what I can do about the evaporust and if I can touch the paint up afterwards.

And this is the other conundrum. To preserve the Reynolds 531 decals the PO put tape on them. I am now in the position where I would like to remove the tape for aesthetic reasons. Do you think I have a chance at not ruining them or should I be on the lookout for some replacement decals?

And this is the other conundrum. To preserve the Reynolds 531 decals the PO put tape on them. I am now in the position where I would like to remove the tape for aesthetic reasons. Do you think I have a chance at not ruining them or should I be on the lookout for some replacement decals?

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Please contact the mods and get this title changed.
Narhay's title on Narhay's post about Narhay's 1978 Raleigh Competition GS should be proper!!!
Narhay's title on Narhay's post about Narhay's 1978 Raleigh Competition GS should be proper!!!
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Leave the tape, it part of the provenience. Another option for the rust on the top tube is to apply a rust converter such as Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. The product goes on white and dries clear. More importantly it converts the rust to a stable iron tannate which just so happens to be black. Once cured, hit it with some clear coat to seal it. From 10 feet out it will look fine, up close, they call it patina.
Original finish will always look better and be worth more than a repaint or an over restored finish, it's only original once.
Original finish will always look better and be worth more than a repaint or an over restored finish, it's only original once.
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Maybe you could carefully cut the tape around the decal with an x-acto knife, then peel off the tape outside the decal.
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That's an idea, jj1091. And a pretty good one. You could try the judicious use of heat, Narhay, to slightly soften the adhesive on the tape, and you MAY get lucky. But knowing, as we all do, how delicate those original Reynolds decals were, I'd be willing to bet the decal might come off with the tape. At least, pieces of it.
But if it were mine, I'd give it a try. I think that tape is ugly and nice looking repop decals are out there, of course.
But if it were mine, I'd give it a try. I think that tape is ugly and nice looking repop decals are out there, of course.
#25
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That's an idea, jj1091. And a pretty good one. You could try the judicious use of heat, Narhay, to slightly soften the adhesive on the tape, and you MAY get lucky. But knowing, as we all do, how delicate those original Reynolds decals were, I'd be willing to bet the decal might come off with the tape. At least, pieces of it.
But if it were mine, I'd give it a try. I think that tape is ugly and nice looking repop decals are out there, of course.
But if it were mine, I'd give it a try. I think that tape is ugly and nice looking repop decals are out there, of course.
However, I don't think I'd use heat. That will likely loosen the decal. Oftentimes tape adhesives will dissolve in alcohol, but the decal is held by a waterbased glue. I would suggest denatured alcohol, drop by drop, tweezers, etc. Be patient and go very slowly. If you really wanted to be really methodical, do a practice run with a decal from a cheap plastic model under shipping tape.