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Why was my handlebar so tough to fit into my stem?

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Why was my handlebar so tough to fit into my stem?

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Old 09-09-16, 04:42 PM
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Why was my handlebar so tough to fit into my stem?

I have a vintage Univega, got a new handlebar 3ttt and when I tried to fit it, it went in one apex of the curve and got tough (couldve been due to the residual of the last bartape), so I went and wedged my stem and got it to fit. The mid section of the bars were a bit more tough to wedge in, applied more force to wedge open the stem and got it to fit. The bolt when tightened, definitely seems to have less screw on the back of the nut. Is this a problem? Or should I just get a longer bolt to accomodate?

2nd question, might as well ask how I measure handlebar and stems for appropriate sizing?

Thank you.
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Old 09-09-16, 04:53 PM
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Threading the hooks through a stem through is always a puzzle solving kind of task. You generally have to rotate the bars a couple of times to get everything to line up correctly.

As for the fit at the clamp, I know there were some 3ttt bars that had a 25.8mm clamp diameter, with the idea that you could use them with either 25.4 or 26.0 stems. Is it possible your bars are like this and you have a 25.4 stem?
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Old 09-09-16, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by shuru421
I have a vintage Univega, got a new handlebar 3ttt and when I tried to fit it, it went in one apex of the curve and got tough (couldve been due to the residual of the last bartape), so I went and wedged my stem and got it to fit. The mid section of the bars were a bit more tough to wedge in, applied more force to wedge open the stem and got it to fit. The bolt when tightened, definitely seems to have less screw on the back of the nut. Is this a problem? Or should I just get a longer bolt to accomodate?

2nd question, might as well ask how I measure handlebar and stems for appropriate sizing?

Thank you.
...use a vernier caliper to measure the bar at the clamping center and the stem clamp interior.



You can buy a really cheap plastic one for four bucks at Harbor Freight, or get a steel one that will last longer at Sears or probably also at Harbor Freight. they also sell dial ones. Try to resist the urge to buy digital electronic, the battery is always dead when you need to use it.

A lot of higher quality bars have a 26 mm diameter in the center. when you try to fit them into a 25.4 clamping stem, you get the results you describe. You're probably OK, but there's a chance of the stem cracking and failing where you were coaxing it open, especially if someone now tries to reuse it with the proper bar.

Your best bet is probably to not mess with it any more, and not do this again without measuring first.
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Old 09-09-16, 05:05 PM
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I would definitely remove all the old bar tape residue - try denatured alcohol, it's an equally good solvent with acetone, hangs around longer and makes a better wetting agent
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Old 09-09-16, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
Try to resist the urge to buy digital electronic, the battery is always dead when you need to use it.
I've got a couple of digital ones from Harbor Freight, plus the plastic one they sell for a dollar. The plastic digital model that they sell for around $16 has the nice feature of giving you the option of reading out in fractional inches. I've only had to replace the battery once.

I don't know how accurate the HF calipers are, but they are certainly accurate enough that you can tell the difference between, for instance, a 27.0 and a 27.2 seatpost. The $1 plastic model is also accurate enough for that, but the digital models are easier to read.
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