I removed an english bottom bracket drive side, LEFT TO LOOSEN?
#2
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...on the drive side (side with chainwheels) you now have three possibilities. It's French, it's Italian, or it's stripped.
...on the drive side (side with chainwheels) you now have three possibilities. It's French, it's Italian, or it's stripped.
#3
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"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."
I would agree with 3alarmer, if it's truly a British BB you stripped it. What are the details; bike, BB, photos, etc.?
I would agree with 3alarmer, if it's truly a British BB you stripped it. What are the details; bike, BB, photos, etc.?
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If this was an English BB and you did indeed turn the right side (drive side) cup counter-clockwise looking at it from the right side, you have stripped the threads. (But before you do anything drastic, remove the left cup (ordinary right hand threads) and take it to a bike shop and check that it is indeed English.)
If it is English and stripped, you can have a shop re-tap it to the large diameter Italian threading. THis is an old trick and has been done many times. But don't if you do not have to. 1) Italian threading is the last stop on the block. Damage it and your frame is useless. And 2) Italian drive side threading is right hand thread. Left hand thread is far superior because it tends to tighten with pedaling, not loosen and therefore requires far less torque (still a lot) to make it secure. (I used to put the cup on my French bike - same issue - in a big bench vise, then tighten by turning the frame.)
Ben
If it is English and stripped, you can have a shop re-tap it to the large diameter Italian threading. THis is an old trick and has been done many times. But don't if you do not have to. 1) Italian threading is the last stop on the block. Damage it and your frame is useless. And 2) Italian drive side threading is right hand thread. Left hand thread is far superior because it tends to tighten with pedaling, not loosen and therefore requires far less torque (still a lot) to make it secure. (I used to put the cup on my French bike - same issue - in a big bench vise, then tighten by turning the frame.)
Ben
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if the threads are stripped, VO makes a threadless bottom bracket - designed for folks tired of living with French threads, but works in any BB shell.
#6
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It is possible that the frame was tapped wrong, with adjustable cups on both sides.
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#7
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Then there's this possibility. I once saw an aftermarket BB incorrectly installed in a bike. One cup was marked with an L and one with an R. The L cup (left-hand threaded British cup meant for the drive/right side of the bike) had been muscled most of the way into the left side of the bottom bracket shell, and the R cup had been forced into the right side. I can't imagine the physical strength required to cross-thread two BB cups that far, but someone did it.
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I saw that and understand the principle involved, but unless the perp was working outside for lever space and used a vise the size of a VW Beetle to anchor the workpiece my amazement for the perp's determination still stands. I was actually able to get the thing apart in a Park stand using normal shop tools.
First rule when you find yourself in a hole is to stop digging, which that guy obviously did not do.
First rule when you find yourself in a hole is to stop digging, which that guy obviously did not do.
#9
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I had a Trek 930 with the DS and NDS threads opposite of what one would normally expect. Stranger things have happened.
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So, I thought... has this been posted in the Bonehead Moves thread? Well, it's always good for a quick read... and sure enough, this particular bonehead move is not without precedent.
https://www.bikeforums.net/14309008-post10.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/14309008-post10.html
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#11
Still learning
How to remember which way to turn a BSA BB cup:
Both PEDALS are unscrewed by turning the pedal wrench towards the rear wheel; the right or chain side is turned conventionally to the left in a counterclockwise direction and the left side is turned to the right or clockwise.
Both BSA BB CUPS are unscrewed in a direction opposite the PEDALS; the right or chain side is turned is turned to the right or clockwise, the left is turned to the left in a counterclockwise direction. "Right is right, left is left."
Both PEDALS are unscrewed by turning the pedal wrench towards the rear wheel; the right or chain side is turned conventionally to the left in a counterclockwise direction and the left side is turned to the right or clockwise.
Both BSA BB CUPS are unscrewed in a direction opposite the PEDALS; the right or chain side is turned is turned to the right or clockwise, the left is turned to the left in a counterclockwise direction. "Right is right, left is left."
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For the OP; it looks like that VO BB might be your best choice. I was recently made aware of their usefulness, and they sure look like the solution to a lot of BB issues (bad threads, odd pitch threads, etc.). Affordable, too.
#14
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Thread Starter
I keep getting slightly confused. ok..
So English threading, lefty loosey on the non-drive side(locknut side) and on the fixed side is right to loosen and left to tighten,
Italian thread is left to tighten on the non-drive side(locknut side) and left to loosen on the fixed side. correct?
So English threading, lefty loosey on the non-drive side(locknut side) and on the fixed side is right to loosen and left to tighten,
Italian thread is left to tighten on the non-drive side(locknut side) and left to loosen on the fixed side. correct?
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#16
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#17
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I bought a Schwinn prelude several years ago that had the bb installed by a bonehead, adjustable cup on the drive side and fixed on the non drive side. I was sure the threads were toast, but they were ok, I was able to reinstall the bb correctly and it held up just fine.
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I removed an english bottom bracket drive side, LEFT TO LOOSEN?
It is possible.
I found exactly that on my ca.1963 Peugeot PX10 with non-standard BSC bottom bracket (Campagnolo).
After trying to loosen the driveside cup to the right (normal BSC way) to no avail, I tried it to the left (as I always did on my PX10s)... bingo!
Only after closer inspection of the cup itself I noticed the "D." and "R." marking on it (see pic below). Most likely for "destra", "droite", "rechts" and of course "right" (ital., french, german, engl., respectively).
Whatever the purpose might have been, I found that oddity mentioned in the corresponding german Wikipedia-article:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Innenlager (Innenlager = bottom bracket)
See first table, BSA (=BSC / first row, 5th column): "sehr selten rechts Rechtsgewinde" = on rare occasions right-hand thread on the right side.
I found exactly that on my ca.1963 Peugeot PX10 with non-standard BSC bottom bracket (Campagnolo).
After trying to loosen the driveside cup to the right (normal BSC way) to no avail, I tried it to the left (as I always did on my PX10s)... bingo!
Only after closer inspection of the cup itself I noticed the "D." and "R." marking on it (see pic below). Most likely for "destra", "droite", "rechts" and of course "right" (ital., french, german, engl., respectively).
Whatever the purpose might have been, I found that oddity mentioned in the corresponding german Wikipedia-article:
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Innenlager (Innenlager = bottom bracket)
See first table, BSA (=BSC / first row, 5th column): "sehr selten rechts Rechtsgewinde" = on rare occasions right-hand thread on the right side.
#19
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Things rotate backwards south of the equator.
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Despite the many warnings in the fillet brazing frame building class I did at UBI, one student did put their BB in backwards. Of course this would not happen with a lugged shell. I think by the time it was noticed he was too far along, he would have to install his BB's backwards... not such a big deal with cartridges and external but, but a bit of a bummer.
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That sounds like somebody at the factory threaded the BB backwards, then just installed them wrong to get it out the door. I imagine that the chainline was less than ideal.
For the OP; it looks like that VO BB might be your best choice. I was recently made aware of their usefulness, and they sure look like the solution to a lot of BB issues (bad threads, odd pitch threads, etc.). Affordable, too.
For the OP; it looks like that VO BB might be your best choice. I was recently made aware of their usefulness, and they sure look like the solution to a lot of BB issues (bad threads, odd pitch threads, etc.). Affordable, too.
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1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
#22
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I noticed this once in Buenos Aires. I was no longer able to use my right side for throwing, kicking, writing and so forth. I had become a lefty. That all reverted back to normal when I returned to the US - except for my politics.
#23
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Years ago I visited a former Hetchins employee who had retired to San Diego County with his collection of 24 bicycles of that marque. One of them had reversed BB threading, and had evidently left the factory that way.
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I know a guy who went to one of the well know west coast frame builders frame building schools, years ago. He built a very nice cross bike, but somehow put the bb on backwards. You'd have never know if he didn't tell you.