Advice needed: Lateral rim dent
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Magnolia State, 100° with 110% humidity
Posts: 1,230
Bikes: American, Italian, and Japanese.. in no particular order.
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
128 Posts
Advice needed: Lateral rim dent
Hello all,
I received a vintage one owner bike in the mail today. Regrettably some of the components were missing from the package, but that's a story for another day. While assessing rear wheel trueness, I discovered a lateral dent in the rim. Radially, the rim looks fine (no flat spots). So I'm thinking that I can lay the wheel down flat and support the outer rim with wooden blocks and use a second block of wood to hammer the dent out. Can anyone offer a suggestion that might work better? I would greatly appreciate your input.
Regards,
Dwayne
Rigida rim dent.jpg
I received a vintage one owner bike in the mail today. Regrettably some of the components were missing from the package, but that's a story for another day. While assessing rear wheel trueness, I discovered a lateral dent in the rim. Radially, the rim looks fine (no flat spots). So I'm thinking that I can lay the wheel down flat and support the outer rim with wooden blocks and use a second block of wood to hammer the dent out. Can anyone offer a suggestion that might work better? I would greatly appreciate your input.
Regards,
Dwayne
Rigida rim dent.jpg
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,706
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5779 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times
in
1,427 Posts
That will get you most of the way. Keep in mink that there's some spring back, so you may need to finish by supporting the rim to either side but not directly below the dent.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
I'd give it a whack (literally). Proceed slowly. I'd probably use a piece of wood cut to the right size as a punch to persuade the effected area back to where it should be lined up.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#4
Senior Member
I'd replace the rim. There are lots of modern rims that look the vintage part - or used rims/NOS that would be fine. You'll likely feel it as you brake or possibly as a bit of a lump in the wheel as it rolls.
#5
What happened?
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Around here somewhere
Posts: 7,927
Bikes: 3 Rollfasts, 3 Schwinns, a Shelby and a Higgins Flightliner in a pear tree!
Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1835 Post(s)
Liked 292 Times
in
255 Posts
Don't mess with Mr. Inbetween, replace that rim.
__________________
I don't know nothing, and I memorized it in school and got this here paper I'm proud of to show it.
#6
Senior Member
I've fixed those with an adjustable wrench. Slowly start on one side of the bend and work your way to the other side. Little small bends at a time until straight.
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,103
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 288 Post(s)
Liked 329 Times
in
160 Posts
+1. I recently did this without a problem (though I confess I've only put about 10 miles on the wheel since then.) I think Sheldon has some info on his site about doing this. Go slowly and put some cardboard on the outside of the rim to prevent marring it. Practice on a junk wheel first if you've got one. You got this. Let us know how it goes.
#8
Senior Member
I fixed a dented rim last winter on my road bike and have been using it all season. You have to get creative tapping it back to shape, slowly. Use wood, shape it if you have to and tap it with a hammer making sure you rest the dented portion of the rim on a solid surface while you hit it. Worse case, you won't get it perfect and might feel a bit of vibration when braking.
#9
Banned.
#10
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
You will never be seventeen again. I'm sorry, but that's the truth. As for your rim, well, that, too, has seen better days. Anything you can do to it now is the equivalent of a face lift. You can remove a wrinkle or two, but your rim will never be seventeen again.
That said, your rim has many years of use left. Like you, it shows signs of age. Don't worry about it. Brake lightly is the bumping sensation bothers you.
That said, your rim has many years of use left. Like you, it shows signs of age. Don't worry about it. Brake lightly is the bumping sensation bothers you.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Magnolia State, 100° with 110% humidity
Posts: 1,230
Bikes: American, Italian, and Japanese.. in no particular order.
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
128 Posts
Thanks all. I was able to hammer out the ding with the wheel resting horizontally on a couple of cypress blocks. I used a piece of maple as the punch. Per advice received, I took my sweet time.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,751 Times
in
938 Posts
FORGET ABOUT HITTING THE RIM!
I have fixed several, or even lots, of this sort of slight damage and never had a failure. But no hitting, please.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever, with the flat of the end pushing the inside of the lip outwards, away from the center of the rim. Before prying, slip something metal under the screwdriver (or what ever you use) and against the other bead area (this spreads the load and acts as a fulcrum, preventing damage to the good side. Now...
Pry gently, watch results and continue until just right. Done it many times. That said...
Replacing the rim is the safest way to go but, for myself, I feel little concern about such a repair.
I have fixed several, or even lots, of this sort of slight damage and never had a failure. But no hitting, please.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever, with the flat of the end pushing the inside of the lip outwards, away from the center of the rim. Before prying, slip something metal under the screwdriver (or what ever you use) and against the other bead area (this spreads the load and acts as a fulcrum, preventing damage to the good side. Now...
Pry gently, watch results and continue until just right. Done it many times. That said...
Replacing the rim is the safest way to go but, for myself, I feel little concern about such a repair.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#13
Keener splendor
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Magnolia State, 100° with 110% humidity
Posts: 1,230
Bikes: American, Italian, and Japanese.. in no particular order.
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
128 Posts
Randy,
I hit the inner side of the rim with a wooden block a few times and then followed up with a flat bladed screwdriver as a pry bar to tweak where needed. Thanks.
I hit the inner side of the rim with a wooden block a few times and then followed up with a flat bladed screwdriver as a pry bar to tweak where needed. Thanks.
FORGET ABOUT HITTING THE RIM!
I have fixed several, or even lots, of this sort of slight damage and never had a failure. But no hitting, please.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever, with the flat of the end pushing the inside of the lip outwards, away from the center of the rim. Before prying, slip something metal under the screwdriver (or what ever you use) and against the other bead area (this spreads the load and acts as a fulcrum, preventing damage to the good side. Now...
Pry gently, watch results and continue until just right. Done it many times. That said...
Replacing the rim is the safest way to go but, for myself, I feel little concern about such a repair.
I have fixed several, or even lots, of this sort of slight damage and never had a failure. But no hitting, please.
Use a flat bladed screwdriver as a lever, with the flat of the end pushing the inside of the lip outwards, away from the center of the rim. Before prying, slip something metal under the screwdriver (or what ever you use) and against the other bead area (this spreads the load and acts as a fulcrum, preventing damage to the good side. Now...
Pry gently, watch results and continue until just right. Done it many times. That said...
Replacing the rim is the safest way to go but, for myself, I feel little concern about such a repair.