FordTrax

I have been reading this forum for a while. I am in my 50s and about 6'1" tall 200lb. with about a 33" inseam. I was more of a runner than a biker but a few months ago I got a hybrid to see if I liked biking and if it was better for my knees. It is.

I have been riding with a group in town/trail and would like a slightly "faster" bike than my Trek Multitrack hybrid. Maybe a bit lighter but at 200lb a couple of lbs in the bike is not a huge difference. I really don't like the new bike since most are made in Chiwain and I just don't think they are special. Kid of sole-less I guess. (no insult intended just my thoughts).

I would like to find a classic or vintage bike that I could upgrade for 20-35 mile road ride at a relaxed 10-14 mph pace. Something with a more "relaxed" stable geometry. I want to stay with about 32cm/1.25 tires for versatility. I don't see a problem with 27" since many were 1.25" and you can still get appropriate tires for what I want to use it for. I would want to put on more modern brakes and probably go to index shifters on the bar (I definitely would upgrade from downtube shifters). I would like something in Chrome Moly butted frame that is going to justify putting the upgrade money in. I like playing around with things so upgrading cranks, bb, gears, etc. might be fun and a good learning opportunity.

I seem to find some of the older Miyata's very attractive, but also like raleighs, cannondales and would be pretty much open to other brands that would fit my needs.

Can you guys/gals suggest some vintage road bikes which would have a more relaxed stable geometry and a good frame to justify the upgrades that I should be looking for?

ollo_ollo

1975 or earlier Motobecane Grand Jubile. They have beautiful paint, ornate lugs and lots of fender clearance. I built mine up from just a frame with headset and bottom bracket. That let me choose either original or better components. The early Shimano Arabesque looks good on a Jubile, especially the downtube shifters. Or you could go with bar end shifters. Don

texaspandj

Here you go,
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ight=centurion

Flog00

What part of the world are you located?


Trek 620 would be a perfect bike for you.

Lazyass

The best thing would to be to post some bikes in your size that are for sale near you or ones on ebay that catch your eye. You seem to have an idea what you're looking for. I mean I could recommend a '83 Trek 640 or '86 Univega Nuovo Sport but you probably won't find one anytime soon.

Seizedpost

There are lots of good brands. If you're looking for a deal just keep an eye on Craigslist for something your size. In terms of geometry it sounds like you really couldn't go wrong with any good quality 70s or 80s sport tourer.

However, if you are really set on indexed shifting on the handlebars, your least expensive option may be getting a 1990s bike that came that way. Upgrading from non-indexed downtube shifters would require new shifters (duh), a downtube cable stop, two new derailleurs, probably a new crank, and almost certainly a new rear wheel. If you start with a 12 speed bike you MIGHT be able to thread on a seven speed freewheel, but six speed hubs are wider than seven speed hubs and it'll probably rub the dropout. And if you got it to work you'd be paying $85 for Tourney brifters:
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A0.../dp/B007Q4MM1I
So realistically you'd need a wheel.

Long story short, you might want to give non-indexed downtube shifters a try. They're actually very easy to use, especailly if you get a bike with Suntour ratcheting powershifters. I think they're part of the fun of riding a vintage bike. What makes you so sure you won't like them?

If you're set on indexed brifters the most economical option might be finding a 1990s bike that came with them. There are lots of really nice lugged steel bikes from that period with plenty of "character" with 8-10 speed casettes.

Upgrading a 70s or 80s bike to modern components would be a great project, as long as you go in understanding how expensive it will be. If you have a local bike co-op, make friends with them. That's usually the cheapest way to get good wheels.

St33lWh33ls

Your situation was pretty much my situation several years ago, except I had a bias and wanted to replace a chrome Paramount I lost during a hurricane years ago.

Because you have no bias the world is your oyster, go find a bike that speaks to your taste, fits you, and is in your price range. Looking and finding the right bike is half the fun, and if you spent time on this forum like you said you have you know what the good stuff is.

Shady Rascal

Pretty much the answer to any bike question is Centurion Ironman, but in this case you specified 32mm tires so that's out. The Miyata suggestion has merit. They seemed to be built roomy for larger tires. Mine came with 27x1.25 tires (32mm) and I did a quick 700c swap and now have 32mm tires and fenders. The 700c swap was a complete non issue. Just adjust the brake pads down in my case. Total time maybe 5 minutes.

Salamandrine 

I'd say look at 80s and early 90s japanese sport touring bikes. They are not so pretty as to deserve not being hot rodded, they pretty much suit your riding requirements perfectly, and the quality is usually very good.

Brands off the top of my head to look at: Miyata, Univega (also made by Miyata through the mid 80s), Bridgestone - long top tubes which should fit you well with your height and inseam, Fuji, Nishiki, Centurion, Panasonic, Shogun, etc.

It's really more of the level within the brand than the brand. I higher end model from any maker is going to be better than a lower level model from another brand that might have more prestige.

bikemig 

+ 1 on this list. I'd vintage Treks on this list. The sports touring models would work very well as would the full on touring bikes.

One plus with Japanese bikes and Treks is that parts are easy to come by.

If you're fixed on 32c, touring bikes may be your best bet but they tend to command a premium. If you're good with 28c, then there are a lot of sports touring bikes that can work as well.

Here are some pics to get you started:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-bicycle.html

The Golden Boy 

Agreed.

exmechanic89

^I agree with all of this. I'd stick to bikes from the 90's if you're intent on bar shifters and indexing, it would be a quite a project to do that with a 70's or early 80's era bike. I like both downtube and bar shifters personally - both are quite easy to use, imo. So I wouldnt write off DT shifters before you try them, as being open to them opens up a lot of 'classic' bike possibilites.

Chombi

I'd make sure to go with something that has brifters installed on it, instead of down tube shifters. Most C&Vers prefer the old downtube shifters, mostly because that's what we learned on and got used to. You will most likely appreciate the ease of shifting with brifters rather than having to learn/get used to shifting from levers on the down tube.....

Bandera

There are good recommendations here, however:
"They don't make those anymore."

The odds of a specific make/model/year/size popping up in a local garage sale or CL are very long indeed.
Finding a quality machine in good nick that actually fits requires patience and luck, being inflexible on size & general requirements while being flexible on brand/color/price may make practical sense in finding something rideable.

I'd like to find a post-WWII Raleigh Lenton Sports in good shape in my size at a reasonable price locally.
I'm not holding my breath, but you never know.

-Bandera

L134 

Why limit yourself with indexed shifting? Friction with modern chains and cassettes is amazingly smooth and precise, more durable, easier to adjust/maintain and far more flexible in my opinion/experience. Just look at all the BF questions about "can I use this with that" related to indexed shifting. Why subject yourself to that? With friction you can do almost anything you want without sacrificing much of anything, especially considering the type of riding you are talking about. In other words, consider carefully exactly why you want indexed shifting before making that a determining factor.

willydstyle

How far and fast you go is going to be a lot more about your capabilities than the bike. As others have suggested, there are simply waaaay too many decent old bikes out there for me to be able to recommend a specific one, though if you want fatter tires as you get later in the '80s it becomes harder to find good frames with good tire clearance, as the trend was to skinnier tires.

Fahrenheit531 

If you posted your location I'm sure you'd have several viable options posted here in no time flat as we cruised your local CL, vicariously going N+1.

due ruote 

Agree on the Trek suggestion. 520 would be great as well. Every time I ride mine I am reminded of what a smooth riding capable all-rounder it is. I switched to 700c from the stock 27" wheels and it has all kinds of space still with 32mm tires and fenders.

Did the same with my Raleigh Gran Sport. Lots of tire room with 700c wheels and it's a lovely rider. Super Course would be another option. But going to brifters would be a fairly large undertaking.

A middle ground solution to the shifting decision would be to use bar end shifters. Suntour friction Barcons work really well. If you are set on indexing you can get Shimano bar end shifters that will work with 6/7 speeds, which mitigates the need to change the rear wheel.

Although 80's Japanese bikes are a great value generally speaking, in my experience the tire clearance is often their Achilles heel. Often 28mm is a tight fit, especially on the front; more like 25 with fenders.

Lazyass

Some of the best CL deals are Japanese bikes with 27 inch wheels. They were usually at the lower end of manufactures line ups with 27 inch wheels and lower end components, but a lot of them came with awesome frames. My Univega is triple butted. And even some American bikes like the Schwinn LeTour and Traveler with the Tru Temper frames. You can find those dirt cheap. Bikes with 27 inch wheels in general are usually good deals because everyone wants a 700c bikes, but I've found I actually prefer 27's. Tire selection is limited but I'm good with Pasela's and of course you can always put a 700 's on them and run a massive tire if you want.

Dfrost 

There's lots of love for these older Motobecanes. I have a friend who would love to find another one to replace a stolen Moto. But I've cautioned her about the idiosyncrasies of French part dimensions.

When did French bikes become "standardized" (I.e., not so peculiarly French, like 22.0mm stems, etc.)? Amazingly nothing on Sheldon Brown's website about this that I've found (yet).

Seizedpost

This has not been my experience with Fujis. I have 27 x 1 1/4 (32mm) Paselas on my 1982 S12-S LTD and they have room to spare. I once temporarily mounted some SKS plastic strap-on fenders and they fit without issue.
I have only 700 x 25 Michelins on my 1985 Sagres, but they have massive clearance- 16mm on each side, and about 15mm between the top of the tread and the brake caliper.

Rollfast

My answer will always be WORKING, which is far too objective maybe.

Dfrost 

FordTrax,

You've done an impressive job of identifying your needs in terms and parameters that make sense on this forum.

One piece that would help is to include your location. With that information, folks here can be super helpful in scanning your local Craigslist ads, as well as getting an idea of the geography where you live, which may influence gearing desires.

You've received lots of good general as well as specific suggestions. And your interest in doing some upgrades is helpful. Here's an article from the late, great Sheldon Brown's huge bike-related website (strongly suggest that you wander around that website a bit) that you might appreciate:

Upgrading Older Road Bicycles

You were quite clear about wanting indexed shifting and not downtube levers. Plenty of us on C&V are of similar opinion. One of the biggest threads here is filled with examples of upgraded older frames with integrated brake/shifters (often called "brifters"):

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html

There is a fair amount of work and parts accumulation required for such conversions, but that can be fun, too. And if you're in an area with a decent used parts emporium, the costs can be moderate. I've just finished switching my wife's backup bike to Shimano 8-speed brifters, and my total cost using nice condition used components was $80, although I didn't need to buy smaller parts like cables, housings and downtube stops.

You mentioned mentioned wanting a chrome-moly (so steel) frame. Did you know that older Cannondales only have aluminum frames? There is a certain appeal to them, and lots around, but they tend to be harsher riding than steel-framed bikes. But your specification of 32mm/1.25" tires would offset that harshness.

Seizedpost

Another thing to keep in mind with aluminum is wheel selection, since he'll be replacing the wheel if he goes to indexed shifting. With a steel frame, he can bend it to take whatever wheel he wants. With aluminum, if it has 126mm dropouts that will make his life harder.
Although, an old aluminum Cannondale will probably already have 7 speed indexed DT shifters right? It might actually need fewer new parts, if he can find inexpensivs 7-sp. brifters.

due ruote 

OK, sorry if I overgeneralized. Certainly there are exceptions, as your photo plainly shows. I believe the S-12-S was more of a sport tourer, correct? I suppose my experience has been more with race-geometry bikes: a Panasonic DX-3000 and DX-4000, an Ironman, a Miyata 710 and a Club Fuji come to mind, and none of those would take a tire larger than 700c x 28.