Bike Forums - Continental Refurbishment

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ClunkerRider

11-02-16 11:08 PM

Continental Refurbishment

Narhay

11-02-16 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClunkerRider (Post 19165760)

I'm currently refurbishing (let me stress refurbishing and not restoring) a late 70's Schwinn Continental that I will be using for school. I have a lot of experience in automotive restoration but I have not worked a whole lot with bicycles. My goal is to create a solid, reliable bike for commuting around San Francisco. Why a 70's Continental? People ask me the same question about my 1970 VW Beetle. I guess the answer is a combination of recycling and nostalgia...
Anyways, being new to the technical side of the bike world, I have a couple of questions:
1.) I need rim bands, tubes and tires - what size and which ones to buy? Check your existing tires and rims. Probably either 27" or 700c. Tire Width will depend on your rims and how much clearance you have between the Chainstays. You'll want rim tape wide enough to cover the spoke nipples but not too wide it rides up against the bead of the rim. Get tubes to match your tire width and size. If your tubes still hold air you can use them.
2.) I also need new cables - where can I find a set for my bike and is it a job I can tackle? Cables are very easy. I'd recommend a set of stainless steel derailleur cables and the same for brake cables. These are pretty universal. You cut to the length you want and use whichever end fits into your brake levers. I'd also recommend Teflon lined cable housing. You can get a few feet of this at the bike shop.
3.) I see that most people get rid of the stock brake handles - should I do this or can I get parts for the old ones? Get new brake pads and you can get new brake hoods if yours are damaged. If not then no need.
4.) Chain - how does it come apart and should it be replaced for regular use? You'll want a c.hain breaker tool. It pushes a pin out of the chain so it comes apart. If the chain is rusty or worn/stretched replace it. If not you can lube it up and reuse it. Chains are cheap and I never reuse old ones but you may be able to save a few bucks if you do.

I've already disassembled most of the bike to clean and grease and I have started today to reassemble it. I repacked the front fork bearings and the crank bearings but I think I'll have to take the rear wheel to the bike shop to have the hub taken apart and inspected. Make sure your bottom bracket and headset bearings spin freely but don't have any play when you rock the fork or spindle back and forth. The rear wheel is relatively simple but you'll need a freewheel remover tool for the particular freewheel you have and some cone wrenches. I'd recommend replacing the bearings everywhere while you're at it.
Any advice is much appreciated!

See above and welcome. You'll spend as much on tools to do these jobs as you would to have the bike store do it for you. Your choice but if you work on cars then bikes are easy. Lots of YouTube videos and step by step tutorials on all components of bike overhauls. Just take it one step at a time and you'll get there.

pastorbobnlnh

11-03-16 04:55 AM

Make certain on the cables to save the top tube frame inserts or ferrels used on the rear brake cable. They are unique to Schwinn electro forged frames. Many of the Schwinn pieces of hardware are unique, so keep track of them, even if in questionable condition, because they are not always easy to find.

Welcome to Bike Forums and best of luck on your project.

MikeinBuffalo

11-03-16 06:32 AM

When i refurbished my Le Tour, this is what I ordered:

BikemanforU 27x1 1/4 Gumwall Combo Pack | Free Shipping

Its a set that includes 2 Kenda tires, 2 tubes, and 2 rim strips. The guy ships fast, and its good rubber.

ClunkerRider

11-03-16 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeinBuffalo (Post 19166040)

Thanks for the lead that looks like a great deal! I was hoping for whitewalls but I won't be too picky. Is the tread pattern good for year-round street use?

John E

11-03-16 09:02 AM

Great advice in this thread so far. I would add that you will want KoolStop brake pads -- accept no substitutes.

A potentially expensive, but very rewarding, upgrade would be to replace those overweight steel rims with aluminum. You might be able to find a wrecked or rusty yard sale bike whose aluminum-rimmed wheels are in decent shape.

jetboy

11-03-16 09:41 AM

You are welcome to come by our co-op at usf.. near the panhandle - and scrounge parts. Its all free as long as you are gonna use it! We have most if not all of the tools you would need as well.

We also have a free talk and workshop on friday 11-2:30 on making bicycle machines. Pm me if you are interested in stopping by.

noglider

11-03-16 10:45 AM

I agree with the advice here so far. You have decent reasons for choosing a Continental. It's not fast, but it is reliable and durable, and it makes a fashion statement.

You can keep the brake levers. The calls to replace them is just alarmism.

It used to be that 1/8" wide chains had master links and 3/32" chains did not. The former were used on 1-speeds and 3-speeds, and the latter were used on derailleur bikes. Nowadays, derailleur chains do have master links. To get your chain off, you need a bicycle chain tool. You'll need the tool to cut your new chain down to size.

Salamandrine

11-03-16 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John E (Post 19166394)

+1 Yeah, replacing the steel rims with aluminum would be a worthwhile upgrade, especially for hilly SF. It may be simpler to replace the entire wheels. You certainly don't have to do this though.
+1 on the new brake pads.

IMO splurge on tires that are a little bit better than cheapest possible tires, as they make as much difference in ease of pedaling as the rest of the bike.

> 1.) I need rim bands, tubes and tires - what size and which ones to buy?

27 x 1 1/4, unless the wheels have been replaced. It should say on the side of the tires what size they are.

> 2.) I also need new cables - where can I find a set for my bike and is it a job I can tackle?

Not too difficult but it depends on your mechanical aptitude. You will need to readjust everything when you swap them.

> 3.) I see that most people get rid of the stock brake handles - should I do this or can I get parts for the old ones?

No reason to do this at all unless you want to waste your time and money in a failed attempt to make a Schwinn Continental look like a modern race bike. Don't do it.

> 4.) Chain - how does it come apart and should it be replaced for regular use?

Chain breaker tool. If it's rusty or stretched (google), replace it, they are cheap. Otherwise just clean it up, oil it and use it.

3speedslow

11-03-16 11:28 AM

If the Derailleurs are Suntour the cables running from the shift levers will be readily available. If they be Huret, they have a special lead end that might be hard to find. Find out which you have before you go part shopping.

Does this Conti come with the old chrome fenders ? They look smashing but weigh a TON. Good idea to find newer versions.

Good luck! I rehabbed a Conti for a family friend and he absolutely loves it. I changed quite a bit, some of it has already been mentioned but the friend uses it everyday as his college commuter.

artclone

11-03-16 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy (Post 19166496)

Where is this, exactly?

jetboy

11-03-16 01:12 PM

2800 turk st, if you google "Studio Theater, USF" it will show you on the map. its on a campus so street addresses don't actually work. backstage bike is our free co-op. its just starting out so it does not have tons, but for trying to get a clunker back on the road.. it works!

noobinsf

11-03-16 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy (Post 19167038)

I remember reading about this when you were getting off the ground. Happy to see that it's up and running!

ClunkerRider -- you would do well to drop by this co-op or any others that appear in a google search. Cheap parts, free (or cheap) use of tools, and knowledge abound, especially here in the Bay Area. Good luck with your bike!

artclone

11-03-16 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jetboy (Post 19167038)

Thanks, I'll check you out.

ClunkerRider

11-03-16 08:06 PM

Thanks for all the input!

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where I should get cables (link or company)? I'd prefer white ones if it's in the budget.

I will probably upgrade to aluminum wheels eventually but for now, the original steel ones are in good condition and cleaned up well. I went by our great local cycle shop (Sonora Cyclery) today to have the gears spun off of the rear wheel so I can clean up the sprockets and grease the bearings. While he was at it, he also trued up the spokes.

ClunkerRider

11-03-16 09:19 PM

Also, are there still parts available for the original brake handles such as the plastic or nylon bushings that have disintegrated?

Salamandrine

11-04-16 05:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClunkerRider (Post 19167916)

Quote:

Also, are there still parts available for the original brake handles such as the plastic or nylon bushings that have disintegrated?

Cables are steel colored. The housing can be white or many other colors. Try your local bike shop. There are dozens of online bike retailers if you prefer to mail order.

I don't recall the diacompe/weinmann brake levers having any nylon bushings, but they were a pretty common part you are likely to find in a coop or older bike shop. Oh, if you mean the bushings between turkey levers and the main lever body, just take off the turkey levers. They are basically useless.

SloButWide

11-04-16 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClunkerRider (Post 19166113)

Thanks for the lead that looks like a great deal! I was hoping for whitewalls but I won't be too picky. Is the tread pattern good for year-round street use?

I've had K35s on my every day commuter for about 3 months now (~1200 miles?). They've worn reasonably well and still give good traction in the rain. I am wary of riding on slick stuff (wet leaves, wet wooden bridges, etc) on any tire, especially these. I'll ride on these dry and raining days during the winter, but have a mountain bike with gravel tires for snow and ice. (By gravel tire, I mean the main contact point is slightly ridged, and the sides are knobby; by lowering the pressure, more of the knobs contact the snow/ice for traction).

The Golden Boy

11-04-16 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noglider (Post 19166650)

You have decent reasons for choosing a Continental. It's not fast, but it is reliable and durable, and it makes a fashion statement.

I love the aesthetics of those old Schwinns...

Lascauxcaveman

11-04-16 07:07 PM

+1 on getting replacement - alloy - rims. It's just insane to ride hilly country in wet weather with steel rims; the braking is abysmal and you could die.

+1 on keeping the brakes as-is, with the exception of new Kool Stop brake pads. Sure, you could get better levers and calipers, but I think you'll be happy with the performance of what you have once you've upgraded the rims and the pads. And since the nostalgia thing is important to you, the more original the better.

MikeinBuffalo

11-04-16 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClunkerRider (Post 19166113)

Thanks for the lead that looks like a great deal! I was hoping for whitewalls but I won't be too picky. Is the tread pattern good for year-round street use?

I don't do much wet weather riding with the schwinn (I use my hybrid with better Gatorskins on it in the rain). However, what little ive done with the schwinn has been a-ok. They are exactly like the original tires that were on my Le Tour when I rescued it from the dump.

Braking in wet weather with steel rims, however, is impossible, so as others here have suggested, spend a little money on some decent aluminum wheels. Lighter, faster, and better stoppage.

ClunkerRider

11-06-16 08:49 PM

ClunkerRider

11-06-16 11:33 PM

Thanks for all the help! I like to think that I don't need my hand held in this process but the truth is, I do. The actual work and mechanics are easy, it's figuring out part compatibility and finding parts that are my shortcomings. Speaking of parts, I have a list full of them based on your suggestions (I'm still need guidance with cable choice):
Schwalbe 27 1-1/4" HS159 Wire Bead Tires
Schwalbe 700c Road Tubes
Sunlite Rim Strips
Kool Stop Brake Pads
Senqui Dual Brake Levers (same as originals)
Jagwire 5mm Brake Cable Housing
Zicome Brake Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1K1AGNSMXWETW)
Shift Cable Kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A37IUAO66BMZFO)

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