White paint touch up for Gitane TdF/PX-10
#1
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White paint touch up for Gitane TdF/PX-10
These appear to have the same colour of white paint. I know white is the hardest to match but it's probably better than the multitudes of dark grey scratches that are currently plaguing my frames. What colours have you used in the past to touch up the white paint on these frames?
#2
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If it's a cream white, start with Testor's white and add a drop of yellow at a time until thej color is perfect. To mix a small amount, use a NEW Ziploc bag with a piece of cardboard inside so it's like an artist's palette, put a capful of white on it and a drop of yellow at the edge, then mix slowly along the edge of the yellow until it's the correct shade. Work fast, you only have about 10 minutes before it starts to set.
Note that some whites are ice blue instead of cream, but if I recall correctly the PX used a yellow tint.
Note that some whites are ice blue instead of cream, but if I recall correctly the PX used a yellow tint.
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ISTR someone here or on CR talking about how PX-10s yellowed over time, probably because of some clear coat. If brand spanking new, I would think some sort of refrigerator white would be the best place to start.
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@Narhay Report back with your results if you please. I have to do this on my PX10 in the very near future also and was wondering the same thing.
#7
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The bike was clear-coated, made obvious by finish chips on the chromed bits on the stays and forks.
The bike was a warm white, but the paint on the steerer tube was pure white.
I found that Krylon Gloss Ivory #8958 was an excellent match for the aged white of the exposed PX-10 paint.
In the end, I choose to repaint my frame, so that I could deal with rust issues more aggressively.
#8
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White is always a very difficult color to match, because any minor colors mixed in show up so prominently.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#9
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Rustolium Gloss White Protective Enamel from Home Depot is a perfect match to my PX 10. It comes in a pint size can.
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#10
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 11-23-16 at 09:03 PM.
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When you experiment, remember the dry down effect. Paint dries slightly darker than when wet.
Not as prevalent using whites, but the effect still happens.
Not as prevalent using whites, but the effect still happens.
#12
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FWIW I briefly tried Testors white on my PX10 at one point, but it wasn't a very good match and it did not dry hard enough. In the end I gave up and stripped it because the clearcoat had gotten too brown to save, and there were some dubious brazed joints I wanted to inspect.
#13
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I used Meguiars Rubbing Compound to bring life back to the original paint, removes scratches, dirt, minor imperfections and makes it shine again. Then with reading glasses and a fine brush, I did light coats of the Rustolium, trying very hard to keep the paint inside the touch up spots.
You may find that the rubbing compound alone gets rid of the gray scratches with no need to, or very little need to paint.
You may find that the rubbing compound alone gets rid of the gray scratches with no need to, or very little need to paint.
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 11-24-16 at 10:16 AM.
#14
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I started with this: 
And after lots of rubbing compound and a number of scratches disappearing I still have this to work with:

I'd say maybe half of the black marks are now gone but I'm left with many others and decals in poor to ok shape. I'm just weighing whether it is worth replacing decals on a bike I am not keeping. Ill see how the touch up goes. The others went to base metal but there was no rust. I think I'll try the rustoleum and go from there.

And after lots of rubbing compound and a number of scratches disappearing I still have this to work with:

I'd say maybe half of the black marks are now gone but I'm left with many others and decals in poor to ok shape. I'm just weighing whether it is worth replacing decals on a bike I am not keeping. Ill see how the touch up goes. The others went to base metal but there was no rust. I think I'll try the rustoleum and go from there.
#16
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That is how my frame looked but mine was a little worse. Just take your time with it. Don`t glob on the paint. a few light coats is best. After the last coat of paint is dry, rubbing compound to blend and remove high spots. If you lose a bit of paint again, touch it up. Should look good.
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My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
My bikes: 1970`s Roberts - 1981 Miyata 912 - 1980`s Ocshner (Chrome) - 1987 Schwinn Circuit - 1987 Schwinn Prologue - 1992 Schwinn Crosspoint - 1999 Schwinn Circuit - 2014 Cannondale Super Six EVO
Last edited by Steve Whitlatch; 11-24-16 at 11:07 AM.